garykd

Hi CatholicDads, Welcome to the forum. You are going through a traumatic experience. With regard to a RV purchase or any other major decision, consider doing nothing for 1 year. Let the dust settle. Then proceed slowly.

Hi SEAJAY, The compressor I carry does not meet your requirement of being small. It has a 17 gallon tank and delivers 150 PSI at the hose. The two things I recommend you consider are: 1. PSI at the hose. Many of the portable compressors give a rating for tank PSI. The PSI can drop 30 PSI by the time it gets to the hose. 2. Get a compressor with a tank. The volume of air our tires take is immense. That last 10 PSI can be a real slow fill without a tank.

Hi Wayne, You picked a very nice CG. It is a short drive to all the battlefield sites. Have fun.

Hi clynel, Make sure they check and lubricate both ends of the cables and connectors.

Hi Clynel , Welcome to the forum. It the tranny fluid is at the correct level, not burned (dark color, burnt smell) the problem may be with the connectors of the wires that go between the engine control module (ECM) and the transmission. When communications are interrupted between the ECM and the tranny, either the check engine or check tranny light will come on. Consider having the connectors inspected and sprayed with the appropriate electrical lubricant to ensure there is a good solid contact for each of the wires.

Frank, Amen, brother, amen.

Hi hughteal, Welcome to the forum. We have the vented model. It works as advertised. Vented is the only kind of W/D I would install. It's just like your dryer at the stick house. Vent it to the outside to get all the humid/hot air out of the coach. The small bits of fuzz also goes out the vent.

Dave's post is why I do not use a voltage booster of any kind. In order to provide power to the attached coach, they must "take" power whatever is available on the line. This puts my fellow campers at an additional disadvantage. I've been a victim of these devices. While I understand those with continuing power needs, a way needs to be found to (by these RVers) to ensure their power without taking power from fellow RVers.

The judge postponed the hearing. No reason for the postponement was provided, by the court. No date has been set for the hearing. There have been no other bidders or objections to the purchase.

Hi SEAJAY, There may be one additional item for you to consider. When the trailer is connected to the coach, visualize the side view. Your nice coach, with a custom car inside the trailer. However, the aluminum colored trailer is shinny. Reflecting the sun as you motor down the road. Depending on the angle of the sun to the trailer, this could create quite a reflecting hazard to other drivers. If parked in a drought stricken area, it could intensify the sun's rays and start a fire! The perfect solution for this is to have the trailer painted like your coach or the car that is inside. Lastly, there is an image one must consider. You have a classy coach and car. The total package needs to reflect your good taste and status. I will contribute to you having the trailer painted by donating all dimes I am owed because of my thought provoking posts.

Hi Ron, Can you post a picture of the valve and bib?

Hi SEAJAY, One can not beat jimbrightly's experience. I was not aware your coach had Banks installed. That will make a difference. In my previous post, no gas coach I referred to had Banks installed. For me, I'd go with the hands on experience and give the enclosed trailer a try. I have confidence in the Banks Brand.

Hi jjmtnhm, I have used a cheater box for several years. It has always worked for me. I use it when I do not have 50 AMP service and need more power than the 30 AMP outlet will allow. The extra 15 to 20 AMPS is all that is necessary, for me. The previously posted information needs to be taken into consideration, if in the situation you are facing, the box does not work.

Hi SEAJAY, I almost forgot to answer the question about a door. This is the most important question when it comes to the trailer being usable. A door located where it can be used for getting into and out of the car/trailer once the car is loaded is very important. Some climb out the driver's window. Some climb over the open top (convertible). Some have the door placed so they can open the driver's door (just enough to get out), once the car is loaded. The answer to this question is dependant on your agility and how much inconvenience one is willing to put up with.

Hi SEAJAY, Even though the reward for this thread has already been won, I'll post anyway. I think you are going to get to the end of this road and find either you can't tow the configuration needed, with your coach or once you try everything out the Pace Arrow will not hold speed even on Interstate overpasses. If you ever pull an actual hill or mountain, you'd need more patience than most of us have. I say this based on my leading caravans with both Gas and DPs. All tow cars four down. On an Interstate highway the gas coaches could not maintain 55 MPH when pulling slight inclines. The DPs never noticed the inclines. That being said, you are going about this the correct way. First you are determining what your priorities are and working backward to see how they can be met. This brings me to my recommendation. Consider trading the PA for a DP. If done, the smiles will remain and you will actually get where you wanted to go the dame day you planned to get there.

Hi ghhusky, Go to REMCO. They have charts that will tell you the different configurations and what, if any modifications are needed.

Hi SEAJAY, Try Aluminum Trailer Company and Aluminum Trailer Company Used Trailers. Also, google "aluminum trailers" and you'll get a bunch of choices. If you google "enclosed auto trailers" you'll really get a lot of choices. For me, I'd stick with aluminum construction. This is because of weight considerations of the entire loaded package you'll be towing.

Hi SEAJAY, To ensure I qualify for the ten cents, I have over 10 years of experience towing two different cars backwards on a dolly. Over 31 years experience owning class A motor coaches and towing in a variety of configurations. My signature indicates I currently tow both ways (four down and dolly). The steering wheel must be locked into a position that has the steering wheels straight. The more rigid one can make the steering wheel position the better off one is. Other than that, I have seen no difference in towing front or backwards. Absolutely no difference. No additional wear/tear no problems with the towed car suspension, tires or anything. Some things to watch out for are: 1. Stop/running lights need to be installed on the front of the towed vehicle. I use a portable light bar with suction cups placed on the hood of the towed car. An external wire runs to the power plug (via a splitter) to the tow dolly plug that connects to the coach. 2. My dolly has a platform that pivots on turns. With this kind of dolly, one can not back up, same as four down. 3. The dolly height and car must match each other. If your car sits low to the ground, will it mount and dismount the dolly without contacting the car's undercarriage or body parts? 4. The dolly width and car must match each other. Is there clearance on each side of the toad to allow for pivoting when turning? 5. The dolly weight carrying capability and the car must match. Can the dolly handle the weight being placed upon it? After reading Tom's post, my big concern is the second paragraph of his post. My cars work for a living. They are your average every day car, with all the average, every day dings and wear/tear. If you have cars that are kept in above average to pristine condition, towing will be disappointing to you. No matter how I tow, my cars do take all kinds of hits. They also get filthy (especially West of the Great Plains), every travel day. This means a trip to the local car wash. Ugh, I know what you are thinking. Four down or dolly towing, I know of no way to keep the toad from getting filthy and marked up. Based on Tom's post, reconsider towing with your toad exposed.

Hi Lauren, In addition to the previous posts, take a look at the sides of the batteries. Is there even the slightest bulge (outward) in any of the batteries? If so the batteries are bad. Basically, there are flooded (must add distilled water from time to time) batteries and AGM (sealed, no water to add). Based on a lot of different personal factors (budget, how long will you keep the coach, etc,) the choice is yours as to which technology to invest in.

Hi jcrinnz, What is your maximum length?

Hi Ron, While I do not know your coach, some thoughts come to mind. There should be a way to drain the fresh water tank. This could be it. It's easy enough to figure out. Put some water in the fresh water tank and open the valve. (Does one need to put a hose on the bib or does it drain to the outside of the coach? If nothing comes out, pressurize the water system. Close the pressure source and open the bib. If water comes out, it may be from the hot water heater. Re-pressurize the water system and let the hot water heater heat the water. Open the valve and see if the water coming out is hot. These are a few thoughts on how to determine what the bib is for. Lastly, it may be the way to winterize the freshwater side of your water system. The bib must be for the clean water side of the water system. If it has anything to do with the sanitation side, it would empty through the gray/black valves.

Hi Milly, Usually National Park campgrounds (CGs) are not paved. Mostly they are back in sites with electric and water. Some with sewer. Seclusion is the name of the game. However, the America the Beautiful Senior Pass remains a good deal for you and hubby. It provides discounts on admission to the park and sometimes amenities within the park. Consider getting a pass, one for each of you. The information supplied on your post indicates a desire for commercial CGs. Go to Over 55 years of age CGs. there should be a couple of choices on the main page. Look at the top of the page and there is a Winter and Summer choice. There is a mix of CGs, condos and apartments. Next you can "google" (a search apace should be on your screen) "over 55 campgrounds. Scroll through the results to find what may interest you. Outdoor Resorts at Outdoor Resorts and Signature Resorts at Signature Resorts are over 55. The Trailer Life Campground Directory, within a CG listing should say if it is an over 55 CG. Equity Life Style Properties at Encore CGs has some CGs that are over 55. Sun RV Resorts at Sun RV Resorts has some resorts for over 55. Good luck in your search.

Hi Brian, Welcome to the FMCA forum. I do not know how much work you'll do yourself or have professionally done for you. For me, I'd break it down into sub systems and take on each, one at a time. The first is the automotive systems. Change all fluids, tune the engine, check brakes, replace all hoses, check tires (for manufacturer date as well as wear and tear), wiper blades, lights, etc. Next would be the coach systems. This includes, propane, furnace, A/C, water, sanitation, stove, roof, windows, lights, fans, bedding, cushions, etc. You can start start at the cockpit and make a list as you walk to the rear. Both of these lists will be long. It may seem overwhelming, but just take one item at a time and get it right. Then move onto the next item. There are details involved in each system, too long to post here and now. As you have questions about a particular system, post here and there will be good answers for you to base your repairs on.

Hi Joe, Welcome to the FMCA forum. Has the water heater always produced water this hot or is the increased water temp a recent development? The reason I ask is that RV hot water heaters do produce very hot water. The reason is so one will us less hot water when blending with the cold water. It makes the hot water last longer, before running out. If this is a recent development, Brett's post is worth looking into.

Thanks for the update. I have sent an email to Mr. York. The bottom line is I encouraged him and his organization to define a product and price for the RVer that only needs a place to sleep for the night.