garykd

Hi ourfmca, I got this from the Smart Car web site: Can I tow my smart fortwo? The smart fortwo is designed to be flat towed with all four wheels on the ground. Your smart center can assist you with the procedures to allow for flat towing. In addition, the car can be carried on a flat bed. Can you provide us a bit more information? What year and model did you purchase? How did you determine your Smart Car is not towable 4 down? I have seen many (at least a dozen) Smart Cars being towed 4 down. thanks,

Hi matt8892, Go to Remco and see what they say. It looks like it depends on what engine and drive train you have.

Hi Rodney, I do not know how secure the CGs you will stay at in Mexico are, but the ability of people to steal the shirt off your back, in 3rd world countries is truly unbelievable. I spent quite a bit of time in Mexico and other 3rd world countries. If it was me, I would go for the roof mounted dish. The dish mounted on a tripod and sitting on the ground may not be around for very long. This post is not to be viewed as biased against the people of Mexico or any other 3rd world country. It is meant to provide incite gained from over 14 years of experience working in these countries. It is nothing to see people climbing power poles to steal electricity. At night people will dig up underground cables and sell the cable. The culture is very different in these countries than the USA. Consider looking at this purchase as long term and amortize the cost over the period of use. An example might be you figure to keep the coach another 10 years. A $5K purchase over 10 years is $500/year. One can also have the installer ensure you can take the dish with you, if you trade coaches. Let them know this and make it part of the sales agreement.

Hi jimbrightly, I've been to all those seminars too. When attending a manufacturer's seminar it may be a good idea to consider questioning the presenter on the engineering data that supports their presentation. The attendees can make their own decision. Being a retired engineer (mechanical), I do not blindly parrot what presenters have said. If a presenters view is different than mine, I dig into the data behind the presenters view. In this case, what I have found (off line of course) is it comes down to the company attorney not allowing any statements coming close to saying a dolly owner could consider towing a vehicle backward. It has nothing to do with engineering data. I've heard all the stories about front end alignment, front end being too close to the ground, etc. Those excuses are unique to each vehicle. At the macro level, the only safety factor an owner towing backward must be sure to complete is the steering wheel must be secured, rigidly in place. The front wheel can not be allowed to turn. I've done it, with multiple vehicles. When a process is followed for over ten years, with multiple vehicles and there has been only success, that is pretty sound information. I have no hesitation to tow backward again. It sounds like you have no experience with this and are relying on seminar presenters statements. For me it is no more or less safe than dolly towing with the vehicle facing forward. There is a difference between knowledge and skill. Readers can believe what they want. I'll listen to the person with years of success.

Hi SEAJAY, Your idea is a real winner. Right now, our "charger central" is a shelf in the bedroom. It has room to hold everything, but it looks like a rats nest. The wife is complaining all the time about how it looks. Your idea goes on my list of things to do.

Hi jroger, What a bummer. Have you tried to charge the 12 VDC batteries? Depending on how you RV they may be fine to use. If you are almost always connected to shore power, the batteries are used to power the refrigerator and any 12 VDC appliances when traveling. When connected to shore power, the batteries are used to power the refrigerator and any other appliances that have 12 VDC requirements. However, when connected to shore power the batteries should be being charged as they are depleted. Therefore, they are always fully charged. If you decide to replace the batteries, 4 6 VDC batteries would be the best choice. Now comes some hard choices. 1. AGM technology (sealed, don't need to add water) or flooded technology (must check and add distilled water from time to time). 2. There are different brands and it all depends on how much you want to spend, which translates into how much you will rely on the coach batteries. If you boondock a lot, then you might look at the best money can buy. Look in the Yellow pages under batteries. There should be several choices for you to shop. 3. Don't forget the cables. Think of the installation as two separate sets of 2 6 VDC batteries. Each set of 6 VDC batteries will be connected in series. Then the two sets will be connected, to each other in parallel. There will be at least one + and one - connection to the coach. If the previous owner did not leave the cables, you'll need to purchase or make them.

Hi Jim, As you can see by my signature, I tow both ways. I towed a car, back-wards for over 10 year, with no problem.

Hi Gil, Consider calling the manufacturer. If you don't like their price, maybe you can get the name of the supplier. The supplier may have their contact information on the motor label. If you took the motor off and went to an auto supply store (ex NAPA), they might be able to match it with something they sell.

Hi Leroy, You will use no more electric on 30 AMP than on 50 AMP service. You will, most likely, use less electric on 30 AMP. The bottom line to remember is that a 50 AMP service really provides your coach 100 AMPS. It is 50 AMPS on each leg of the two power legs. With 30 AMP service that is all you get, 30 AMPS. This is why the preceding posts warn about using too much power and popping the CG pedestal circuit breaker. It you are on a 30 AMP site, consider using propane for the power source for all appliances that can use propane. Depending on your coach, this might be the hot water heater, refrigerator and furnace.

Hi Steve, Can't find bunk beds? Go to this link to see Newmar's choices. In addition to a bunk bed floor plan, the AllStar has a rear room that you can make into anything you want. It is a huge amount of space. One floor plan even has a downstairs bedroom and an upstairs bedroom. Go to Newmar AllStar floor plans . The AllStar also has Comfort Drive. The bottom line is it is computerized steering. One needs to try it. It can not be described.

This is another vote for MCD products. I have all of them (well almost).

Hi SEAJAY, I wouldn't leave home without it. As a matter of fact, I can't leave home without it. The surge protector is inside the electrical bay. The Brand I have is SurgeGuard. There are several brands to choose from. The technology is not rocket science. Purchase the brand that has the features you want. When I took delivery of the signature coach, I drove straight to CW and purchased a surge protector. The coach has never been connected to shore power without a surge protector. For me, modern coaches have too much at risk to take the chance of voltage (over or under) causing problems. I co-host the Tampa Super Show rally for Newmar owners. This past January, an owner called me to his coach to complain about power. It only took a minute or two to determine his transfer switch was blown. After the transfer switch was replaced, he found several of his A/V components were also not working. He called me over to ask what could be done. I asked if he had a surge protector and he said yes he did. Puzzled, I asked him if I could see it. The surge protector was still in the box. He had never installed it! Guess you know what my recommendation was. If you ever want to know if you need a surge protector, co-host a rally and have the host put you in charge of the electrical service.

Hi Steve, Welcome to the FMCA forum. The Prevost and their equivalents are made to your order. You'll get a red carpet treatment with people to lead you through the process of choosing all the components that make the coach unique to you. The high end coaches from companies like Tiffin, Fleetwood and Monaco's are production line coaches. Nothing bad about that. They are quality components and features in all the high end coaches. Newmar high end coaches are more customizable than many other Brands. I take 1 to 2 years to find the coach that fits my needs. That is the important thing to remember, take your time. Floor plan sell the coach. A close second would be the interior decor. Consider going to RV shows. You can see many different brands and talk to the factory reps. Go to RVIA Shows and RV Show List to see if there are any shows in your area. If you are in the area, the Tampa, Florida show is the middle of every January. It is the largest RV show in the USA. Lastly, one of the best sources of information is right here, on the forum. Ask about this or that all you want. I've owned only new class A coaches. The first was a Winnebago Brave, 26'. We have grown (or groan) into the signature coach. I go to the Tampa Super Show every January, intent on spend $s. I have succeeded every year.

Hi retpolice, Welcome to the FMCA forum. We were all newbies at one time. Enjoy your travels and post often. There is a lot of knowledge on this forum.

Hi noratrace, Not all coaches are wired the same. Mine works the same as your coach. This means 12 VDC features are powered directly from the batteries. The inverter draws power from the batteries and powers some/all 120 VAC appliances. The charger receives power from the shore power cord or generator and recharges the batteries. If you rig has a coach disconnect switch, consider moving the switch to the off position (powers down the entire coach part of the rig) before starting maintenance on the batteries.

Hi nov26ber, Is your need for an inverter only or a unit that is an inverter/charger combination? Whatever you buy, consider a pure sine wave for the inverter function. Go to Inverters and Chargers. I like the Xantrex brand, if you need an inverter and a charger.

Hi Tulirose, Without a toad, your choices are limited to a CG with shuttle service. I think the KOA is your only choice. Another alternative is a taxi.

Hi Tom, With the stick house in South Florida, my "commute" out of the state is always the same. There are only 2 choices, I75 and I95. Going west the only choice is I10. We been here almost 20 years. The side road leisure routes have already been explored. Once out of the state, I continue to be a creature of habit. In addition to being our house, the coach is to get me from one CG to another via the Interstate highway system. The toad's job is to explore, within a 100 mile radius of the CG. This means we do not travel many miles per day. If we do need to travel many miles, that's just another reason to keep on the Interstate. I'm the RVer who likes exploring the local area, but not in the coach, in the toad. For me, driving the coach is a necessary evil to get to what I really want to do.

Hi Brett, Since the author's coach and mine are the same and I am familiar with the road mentioned in his OP, the process I use was suggested for a couple of reasons. 1. On the uphill climb, my ISC will have an increase in temp. On long climbs, in the summer, it will get to about 220 degrees F. My cure to keep the temp around 200 degrees F is to ensure Allison will downshift quickly to keep the RPMs up. In hill climbing I have experimented with economy mode and was not pleased with the engine temp. The default mode solved the problem, without further intervention by me. 2. On the downhill, I want Allison to choose a lower gear as soon as possible. Turning on the engine brake at the top of the hill tells Allison to start the search for 2nd gear. This may make the choice of power vs. economy mode a moot point. However, I have not been as pleased with the economy mode on during a decent. Therefore, I have found, with this coach setup, the engine brake on and economy mode off, very little of my intervention is required. You hit on the right thought that those who like to personally be involved with the choice of gears, may not like my process. I am not one of these drivers. Once I understand my coach, I prefer to set it up according to past successful experiences and let the components do their job. I am very aware of grades that will require me to adjust Allison's choice of gear. I've done it many times. The OP is about I75 in a certain area, with a certain coach, engine and transmission combination. I am very familiar with this road and coach component combination. My post was not general information on how to climb/descend mountains. It was specific to the author's OP situation. With this coach setup, I use economy mode very little. The coach setup has turned out to be very stable. Allison rarely (almost never) downshifts on small hills, overpasses and bridges. It may be more useful in other coach combinations. All the above is after 46K miles, with this coach, in all kinds of driving conditions.

I thought this might bring a smile. Go to Pirate Hat to see the hat.

Hi Richard, If you decide to go to Canada, make sure everyone has their passport or other approved document. Go to USA Citizens Traveling To/From Canada for information and instructions.

Hi Brett, Thanks for the information. I've never seen this posted anywhere.

Hi Jim, I hope your still reading this thread. Sorry to be a bit late in posting a reply. We just got back from the Newmar Kountry Klub Florida State Rally. My coach is the same as your coach. The transmission should NOT be in economy mode. Leave it in the default power mode. On the up hill, let Allison decide what gear it should be in. As you reach the top of the hill/mountain, turn on the engine brake. On I75 that should be enough for you to comfortably descend. If you continue to gain speed, stab the service brake (brake pedal) hard to slow the coach. When you release the service brake, manually downshift the Allison one gear. If you need to stab the brakes again, once you release the brake pedal, manually downshift the Allison one more gear. Repeat until you are comfortable with the speed the coach is holding. On I75, I have never needed to do this, but you may want to try it. This way if you need to do it someday, you'll be comfortable with the process. Once at the bottom of the hill/mountain manually up shift the Allison back to 6th gear. I tow a 5.2K lb GMC ENVOY. My combined weight is a bit more than your weight at 34K+ lbs. I've had to use the manual downshifting of the Allison only with grades much steeper than 6%.