elkhartjim
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Posts posted by elkhartjim
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Welcome, Ken.
If you post year, make and model of your motorhome plus the inverter make and model it will help you get better answers.
My inverter has a float charge rate so I leave it plugged in all the time. What amperage is the 115v you will connect too?
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1 hour ago, rossboyer said:Our resort checks the Vin # or registration to see which is the newest.
Seriously?
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Tell'em its a 13 Bill, they won't know the difference.
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My thought has always been, if it looks good how do they know the age of the coach? Can anyone of us tell the difference in a 2005, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 15 Fleetwood Discovery just by looking?
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17 hours ago, tireman9 said:Maybe a better question might be to ask those companies with R&D budget who are advertising and making claims about the protective nature of the material they are selling, where are the pictures and data from their controlled testing?.
Maybe they don't have any controlled testing data. My experience using 303 has been it makes the tires look better without harming the tires.
17 hours ago, tireman9 said:There is no question in my mind that protecting tires from direct exposure to Heat, Ozone, and UV is a good thing. I have seen tires completely destroyed by being in an Ozone chamber. Tire companies have test fixtures that can expose samples to UV, and of course, we all know that heat can accelerate the aging and loss of strength of rubber. On my 2008 MH the gel coat on the fiberglass side that was always parked toward the south developed cracks to the point that I needed that side re-painted while the side away from the Sun was OK.
Of course exposure to the elements is not a good thing. I'm surprised you are comparing gel coat to a rubber tire. I've seen 50 year old boats that other than the dark of night never saw a shade. They may have been faded but there were no cracks. My 2008 motorhome that I took delivery of August 2007 and sold in August 2017 did not have a crack in the fiberglass finish after being stored in the heat, uv and ozone near the Houston area. Probably some other nasty stuff in the air also.
17 hours ago, tireman9 said:I have written in my blog about both white vinyl covers that I use on my Class-C and just last Oct presented the data and showed the advantages of using Mesh material which for large Class-A Motorhomes is probably easier to handle. Maybe you might want to review some of my posts.
I did read your blog prior to my original post. That is why I asked my questions. I understand and agree that a tire exposed to the elements will deteriorate over time. I still have the same question, what does covering my tires buy me? I can safely estimate seeing maybe one coach with tires covered out of every 100+ coaches I see. Maybe those folks have my same question, what does it buy me?
Thanks for your response.
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Tireman,
I'm curious in all your testing, have you done a 5-7 year test on a tire covered and uncovered? Same tire, same motorhome, same side, same use. The only difference would be one of course would be on a dual axle.
My last motorhome is the only one I changed tires on due to age. I changed at 6 years, 46,000 miles. The motorhome was stored outside in the Texas sun and the tires were never covered and the tread showed hardly any wear when I changed them out. They were 22.5" Goodyear G670's, inflated according to 4 corner weight. I cleaned them with water and used 303 Protector on them.
My reason for the question is, what would a tire cover have done for me? They were not showing any visible cracks at the time of replacement. Tire covers can be a pain to use and to store not to mention a muddy mess in rainy weather. My point, if the tires had been covered or not and regardless of their appearance, I would still have replaced them at the 6 year mark. Now if I could get 7, 8, 9 years or so, I would see a benefit if covering them.
I appreciate you responding and Happy Thanksgiving.
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Looks simple enough but I think the car wrap product is different from Diamond Shield and also the car wrap product has not been on this car for several years which would make it much easier to remove. It would be great if it were that easy to remove after it had been on a coach for several years.
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Wait a minute or as WBill would say, weight a minute...I don't think he was being sarcastic and I'm pretty sure you shouldn't take it as a compliment. Just sayin. I think he was just being subtle so as to not hurt your feeling.
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You guys haven't seen the dog Wayne travels with; he doesn't need a firearm.
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3 hours ago, RSBILLEDWARDS said:I don't get it...In today's connected environment smart, some not so smart people with a "want to know attitude" will find the chinks in the armor and expose the answers which then reduces the credibility of those in question. Why do that? Good job Carl and Five.
Just curious, are you putting Carl and Five in the smart or some not so smart category?
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Dang it, Blake! I was keeping the fix close to the vest waiting for the OP to come back now you've blown it. Each time I've needed to repair/replace the flux capacitor, it has been very straight forward and simple...even for an Aggie.
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2 hours ago, manholt said:Jim, I totally agree with that sentiment !
Wish I knew how to get my coach or Jeep as an Avatar?!
First thing you need to do is take a picture of your coach. I'm sure you have the Brownie Hawkeye still laying around.
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58 minutes ago, WILDEBILL308 said:Welcome to the forum. I have to say that is a strange setup for dumping your tanks.
Bill
I just re-read his post and you're right, macerator on the gray tank???? Funny!
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My thoughts exactly, Carl. I've never read one post saying its easy to remove.
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Time out is better that Xed out I guess.
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If you've truly found a good way to remove the DS, why don't you save a lot of phone calling and just tell us. Plus, I don't have a clue as to what WIT is or how to get their number.
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1 hour ago, JIT10@AOL.COM said:New batteries about 2 months old and 12 volt.
No 12 voltage at Generator
Generator will start with my car batteries jump start.
Key question, do you have 12V at the batteries? New batteries can go dead in a short time if there is any parasitic load.
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I don't recommend ordering parts from them, Wayne. They would require me to come in and pay for the part because they would need to order it and I don't have an account and no, they wouldn't accept a credit card over the phone. They also would not give the FCOC discount on ordered parts. I called Freightliner in Gaffney, they shipped the part that day 40% less expensive than Freightliner Houston.
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If you have a Freightliner chassis it could be the wiring harness for the LBCU. I'm not sure if you have a LBCU or VDU, but both can be problematic with low air alarms. The VDU problem originates from cold solder joints and the LBCU is due to the daisy chain wiring harness. If you don't have a Freightliner chassis, then the info is not relevant.
There are DIY fixes for both problems.
LBCU = Light Bar Control Unit
VDU = Video Data Unit
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1 hour ago, richard5933 said:Am I looking at this wrong, or is the hose holder laid out backwards? Would things drain better if the high end of the hose holder was on the RV side and sloped down towards the drain?
That is why we are making the comments we're making. "anti-gravity".
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A drip loop is one thing but as every plumber in the world will tell you, "it won't run up hill and payday is every Friday".
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A 4 wheel drive Jeep can only be towed 4 down. It cannot be dollied.
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I had the same experience with Freightliner-Houston. I found purchasing Freightliner parts from Freightliner in Gaffney to be very responsive and less expensive than any of the sources I contacted. Best of all, they understand what a motorhome is.
Health Insurance
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Recently it was posted the average members age was I believe 72+ which means they have Medicare coverage.