-
Content Count
2085 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
3
Posts posted by elkhartjim
-
-
Wait...I am the OP of this thread and I demand some respect. Get back on the topic of the Survey or I guess that is what the topic would be. Some were questioning the validity of the survey and I don't have a clue, I just posted the survey without verifying the source and/or validity of said survey. If the media can report news without verifying if its accurate, why can't I?
-
-
According to Ross, I own something and I want him to tell me what I own. Ross, you made the statement now man up and give me an answer. You're so hung up on not calling FMCA a club, at least I can sell my country CLUB membership, can I sell my FMCA membership?
-
Enjoy!!!
-
Thanks for letting us know you resolved the issue.
-
We shouldn't feel slighted, Ed posted the following on iRV2 on 9/27 and received 9 responses; he never came back there either.
Need suggestions on diesel pusher brandsI looking to move up from my '05 Holiday Rambler Ambassador 40 PLQ. Looking for a used or new diesel pusher in the 36'-40' range. Must have lots of pass through basement storage and 10,000# towing capacity.
From the few I have looked at I like the Thor Venetian M37 but seems it must have come out in 2016 as I don't find any older ones advertised. Other possibilities are Tiffin Phaeton, Forest River Berkshire, Fleetwood Discovery, Pace Arrow, Pace Arrow LXE. Any I have missed?
Can anyone offer advice, especially about such issues as quality and reliability?
Thanks,
Ed -
Now that you opened the door, what do the members own?
-
Thanks for the follow-up. Glad you survived Irma with no major problems.
-
Exactly, Bill. Its just common courtesy to say thank you.
Hopefully Ed is enjoying a new motorhome that meets all his needs. If so, it would sure be nice to hear what you settled on, Ed.
-
The sensors are ± 3 - 5%. If you have one registering 3% lower and one registering 5% higher, you could have a sizable variance in pressures.
-
Its beyond frustrating its a waste of time. What posters don't realize is if we offer some solution for their question and it works or it doesn't work, knowing that benefits so many others. Its becoming more of our selfish societies way of doing things; its all about me attitude.
I'll now join Carl in time out.
-
Wasn't the Freightliner Chassis Owners Club a FMCA chapter at one time?
-
What odds are you giving?
-
You can call Cummins Customer Assistance @ 1-800-343-7357 or Freightliner @ 1-800-385-4357. Freightliner has given me fault code help several times.
-
3 hours ago, manholt said:I'm beginning to believe, we have another "One Poster"! Getting tired of this, is this the future?
You are wrong, wrong, wrong, he has made two posts.
-
Texas is a big state. It could be 15 in Amarillo and 70 in Brownsville on the same day.
-
There is a wealth of information on the Lippert/Powergear website plus their customer service phone number. BTW, once you resolve this issue, you need to replace the zip ties with a radiator type hose clamp so moisture can't get to the brake assembly. Again, this is covered extensively on their website. There are instructions also on manually moving the slide.
-
Actually they are not using your money at all, they are using the credit card companies money as soon as the credit card processor deposits money into their account. Since you've not received a credit card bill and/or paid the charge, you have no money invested for them to be using. The company will in reality lose some money because they will pay credit card processing fees. I'm sorry you feel wronged.
-
You'll only do it once with a vent or window open.
-
A 32 foot motorhome is really really small for 3-4 month trips. The storage space is going to be very limited and you asked about boondocking for "several days", I guess we need to know what your definition of several would be. I'm sure the holding tanks are going to be relatively small and since you have no first hand rving experience its going to be a wild learning curve.
Again I will suggest you rent a motorhome for a week before buying one. Its not for everyone.
-
I know some use peroxide but from the research I did, it would take a lot of peroxide to sanitize the system...like gallons.
This is what I do.
I sanitize our RV water system every spring when I take the RV out of storage and any time I notice an odor in the RV water system.
It’s really quite simple to do. You can start by draining the water heater. Go to the outside compartment where the water heater is located. The drain plug, or petcock is usually located in the bottom left hand corner. Remove the plug and open the pressure relief valve on top of the water heater to assist in draining.
Caution: Never drain the water heater when it’s hot or under pressure. Next you need to locate the low point water line drains. It may take a while to find them, but I assure you they are there. There will be one for the hot and one for the cold water lines. This is the lowest point in the RV water system. Open these and let the water drain out. Now, find the drain for the fresh water holding tank and drain all of the water from it. At this point you can turn the water pump on for a moment to force any remaining water out. Do not let the pump continue to run once the water stops draining. Next, close all of the drains.
What we have accomplished so far was to evacuate the majority of water from the system. To sanitize the water system use a quarter cup of household bleach for every fifteen gallons of water your fresh water tank holds. Mix the bleach, with water, into a one-gallon container and pour it into the fresh water holding tank. If you can't conveniently do that, fill the filter housing without the filter inside. You may need to do that more than once. Fill the fresh water tank almost completely full of potable water. Turn the water pump on, open all hot and cold faucets and run the water until you smell the bleach at each faucet. Close the faucets. If it’s possible drive the RV or pull the trailer so the water can move around to assist in cleaning the entire tank. Let it sit for at least 12 hours. Drain the entire system again and re-fill the fresh water tank with potable water. Open all of the faucets and run the water until you no longer smell any bleach. It may be necessary to repeat this process again to eliminate all signs of bleach from the water system. Once this is done it is safe to use your water system.
If you follow these simple steps you can rest assured that the fresh water system in your RV truly is fresh.
-
Try here for some info or call customer support. https://www.lci1.com/assets/content/support/manuals/Slideouts/pg_82_S0010_01.pdf Lippert owns PowerGear.
BTW...never heard about no power at your storage problem.
-
Call the Freightliner help desk with the last 6 of your VIN number. They can tell you anything you need to know.
-
Rob, this forum does exist for us to help each other. If you're about to make a decision to do something to your motorhome and you have questions or you're just not quite sure about what you should or should not do...ask.
FMCA Allowing Towables: Survey On: RV TRAVEL Website
in Electronics
Posted · Report reply
I must have missed the name calling and arguments, Herman. Maybe Brett deleted it.