actionjackson

We had a 96 Vectra with the Allison MD3060, which, I assume you have. We had the same thing happen to us many years ago. The Allison is designed to be "Farmer Proof". In other words it will shut itself down for any reason. Our problem was "no throttle". The Allison computer lost contact with the throttle. If you can go under your coach and see if you can find the throttle cable that enters the transmission. It is held and secured by a "C" clamp. Our "C" clamp had broken off and the cable was allowed to wiggle around, causing the transmission to shut itself down. It was simply a matter of replacing the C clamp and re-educating the computer. Hope this helps.

We have a 2002 Journey and had the same problem last year. I'll spare the details, but we bought the coach second hand and I believe the original owner had never used the Winterizing bypass system. We bought the rig in 2011 and never used the bypass either, until we had a new water pump installed near Dallas. The tech couldn't get the new water pump primed so he asked me to turn on the winterize bypass valve. The result was no water pressure on the hot side. Eventually we got to an RV repair center in Elkhart, IN. They removed the hot valve from the bypass and found that it was stuck in the closed position. They removed it and bypassed the whole system. Voila we now have hot water but can't use the bypass system. I should mention that we tried various other tactics, but all failed. I wrote about this in the forum last year and received a number of replies, none of which solved the problem. Did this just happen all at once or over some period of time? Have you used the bypass system recently? Hope this helps. Actionjackson

I have the same coach. Just had a look at the compartment. From what I can see, if the water control center is still OK, you should be able to cut the bottom portion off and replace with new metal. You might want to try and find a "friendly" sheet metal shop who will spend some time cutting the metal for you. You'll need to do some scale drawings for the cutting part. I've done this kind of thing before and it's a BIG job, but not impossible. You might also try Dave Balser at RV ONE Inc. in Elkhart IN. This is the kind of stuff Dave is good at. Don't have his number handy but he has a web site. I'm thinking of replacing the floor in this compartment due to rusting issues. Good luck.

I also renewed with CoachNet. We're grandfathered for our Motor Cycle. A couple of dollars extra in fees is peanuts. Actionjackson

Thanks Brett. After my post, I realized that I already had a 12v plug, with 10 ga. wire, at the rear of the coach. This is for my M/C rack and winch. It was a fairly easy task to complete the wiring harness onto the Edge with a compatible plug back to the rear of the coach. A question regarding the fuse removal. Does the above procedure negate the removal for the Sync. fuse? Just wondering. Won't have a chance to test this system until next month. Thanks again.

Recently bought the 2012 Edge and had it set up for towing behind our Winnebago Journey. FMCA towing guide did not suggest any modifications or fuse removal, just starting the vehicle each day. We have a Blue Ox Patriot braking system, which worked well with our previous TOAD. The Edge is a different cat. Way more electronics. The owners manual states that the ignition switch should be in the "second" accessory postion, which pretty much leaves the whole dash lit up. We only got about 20 miles when the Patriot signaled that the vehicle battery was low. I had done a minor charge on the Patriot and it might have been a bit low. But our car battery was dead. Had to jump the car to get it started. Had the vehicle battery checked out and it is A-OK. When we got home I phoned Blue Ox and the tech stated that the main "ATM" ignition fust had to be pulled. I couldn't find that fuse per se but did find Fuse #29 Radio Multi-function dispaly screen and SYNC module. I pulled that fuse and the screen went dead, with just a light on around the ignition. It's hard to tell just how much this #29 does and would this kill the car battery that soon? My question is, Is this the right fuse? Maybe someone else has some experience with the Edge as a Toad. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

Further to my last posting regarding no hot water pressure. We came through Elkhart, IN on our way home to have this issure dealt with. The Tech at RVOne quickly figured out that it was not a water tank issue but either a check valve or hot water by-pass solenoid problem. He replaced the check valve and then determined that the hot water by-pass was probably kaput. He removed the solenoid and literally took it apart on the bench. The "plunger" on the inside was stuck either open or closed. He attempted a repair but to no avail. The solution was to remove the offending by-pass valve and put a plug in the hot water line. Voila, we have water through the hot water tank, the first since last December. Since I've never used the by-pass system this is hardly an inconvenience. Thanks to everyone who showed an interest.

I tried calling the Winnebago info line. Always had luck previously. They've changed their policy now and are now informing you to contact a Winnebago dealer. We're in Mexico as I speak, so we've decided to shelve the idea until we get back into the U.S. The two water bypass solonoids are indeed in the water distribution center. This is going to be a nightmare accessing/testing them. My tech guru in Elkhart seems to think he can take one of the solonoids out and just by pass the bypass system. Don't use them to winterize, so it's not a big deal. We're probably looking at some serious money to simply replace them. When we get this figured out I'll repost. Thanks all.

Thanks Rich, I have confirmed that there is cold water entering the water heater. The problem is after, in the hot water exit....

Upon further review of the schematic, we found the winter bypass solenoids in the water service center. One cold and one hot. I'll access behind the panel after the rain stops and see if I can ascertain anything. I'll keep you posted.

Water heater works on both LP and Electric. I opened the relief valve and then removed the bottom drain plug. I've confirmed that there is cold water entering the tank. I put a reverse hose on the hot water faucet at the next to the washer combo. Plenty of water coming out of the water heater. Didn't notice any strange particulate escaping from the tank. None of the hot water faucets are working. There IS a very very small trickle evident from all the taps. I'm still leaning towards by pass valve failure. Is this possibe?

Sorry correct model is WKP36LD. I've looked at the schematic but can't see anything that looks like a bypass or check valve.

Rich, It's a 2002 Journey DL. Looking up the link.

This topic was discussed In January 2014. I am having the same problem. 2002 Winnebago Journey. I bought this unit 2nd hand 3 years ago and have never used the bypass valve. Not sure about the original owner. Winterized in November using compressed air to clear water lines. This is my preferred method. On the way south in December my water pump died and had to purchase a new pump. The tech at McClain's RV near Dallas was having trouble getting the pump primed and suggested that I turn on the by-pass valve. This seemed to work and off we went. Several hours later we discovered that we could not get any hot water at any of the faucets. By way of troubleshooting I unhooked the hot water hose at the Washer and hooked up a modified hose to the hot faucet. I had previously drained the hot water tank. I back washed about 3 gallons of water through the hot water tank. Didn't notice any particulate coming out of the tank. Hooked everything back up and still no hot water. I'm of the opinion that the valve on the hot side is closed. Brett Wolfe mentioned a check valve might be stuck. It would have to be a one way valve as I had no trouble back washing the line from the washer. Is my only option at this time to remove the tank and inspect the rear plumbing? Any information would be appreciated. actionjackson

We also have a 2002 Journey DL, with the same HWH hydraulic set up, so I read with interest your problem. So far we have had no problems. Just for my own info, how much money are we talking about for your repairs? What really concerns me with some of these resales is what the dealers do with them while they sit on the lot. I've seen numerous occassions where they move the coaches without retracting the slides! I can only imagine what this does to the slide alighnment. Actionjackson

I've changed my own oil for years now. With diesel engines there is a lot more oil to deal with and the drain pans typically are too small to take all the oil at once. So there was always a mess to deal with. A couple of years ago I heard about the FUMOTO oil drain valve. It has an arm lever which allows you to drain the oil and then stop when your receptacle is full. I drain my oil from my Journey in about 3 drains. It's slower because the drain valve is not very big, but hey, I'm retired. No muss no fuss. You can find your valve at http://www.fumotousa.com/ Good luck actionjackson

Crawl under the coach. Locate the turbo and wastegate valve. There should be a fuel air tube that runs out of the wastgate. Check and make sure this tube is not broken or severed. This air tube is vital to supplying air to the fuel pump. No air no (reduced) power.

Thanks, Brett. I found a similar thread under engines forum and have plenty of ideas. Sounds like I can purchase the surge tank at Freightliner.

I have an 02 Winnebago Journey DL, 330 CAT on a Freightliner Custom Chassis. A couple weeks ago I noted, to my dismay, that the plastic resevoir bottle that sits atop the rad had started "seeping" antifreeze. Since this bottle is under presssure I was quite concerned. We're currently in Mexico, so a visit to Freightliner is out of the question. In additiion to leaking the plastic is starting to spall. I've done a temporary fix sealing the rear of the resevoir bottle with two part expoxy, to strengthen it. It hasn't stopped the leak but seems to have at least bonded to the plastic. This bottle seems to be in a very tight spot and i'm wondering how much effort it's going to take to remove/replace this plastic bottle. Anyone with any info or suggestions?

Good article. Mostly accurate. We're returning to Mexico this winter after a one year break. Plan on entering through the Laredo area. This will be our 18th winter and thoroughly enjoy the people and especially the weather. Will do most of our winter in Lo de Marcos and the downtown park in Puerto Vallarta. We used Lewis and Lewis Insurance for many years, but have switched to Wayfareres out of Ontario. Closer to home. We travel with an attached "Montoneta". I believe it's too big to be considered a scooter as it's 400cc. We got away without having to get the temp sticker until quite recently. The Mexican's have really caught up with computerization. We did have to cancel our last RV on line, as we sold it without cancelling first. We entered the country with our new RV and my wife put both vehicles in her name. We then couriered all the pertinent docs to Mexico City. Had our cancellation papers sent to Canada by the time we got home in the spring. Happy trails.

Dave: I had a older 5.9 Mechanical and had pretty much the same power issues as you. I believe the set up for the two engines is very close. There should be an "air tube" extending from the waste gate valve. On the 5.9 it carries on up the inside of engine, where it is/was attached to the second manifold bolt. This air tube then continues over top of the engine, and connects into the Fuel Pump. On my engine the Air Tube had severed at the clamp. This tube carries air under pressure to your fuel pump. In orther words the pump wasn't getting enough air. No air, no power. I jury rigged a piece of fuel line hose in place and the power returned to normal. Upon my return home, I purchased the air tube from a Cummins dealer. This tube on the 5.9 was very hard to see and find. But the focal point was the waste gate valve, behind the turbo. Hope this helps. Actionjackson

We've been members of FMCA since circa 1990. We don't do a lot of rally's (10) . The FMCA magazine is in my opinion worth the yearly fee, even if you aren't in the market for a new coach. ActionJackson

I just started the generator. No problems. It's about 45F here right now. This may not be cold enough, but it didn't sound uncomfortable. I'm thinking that there's not much more that I can do until we cross the Rockies In December. I'll be sure to run it through the mountains and see if a) it works at altitude or it will start. Thanks to Brett and Rich for all your input. It helped me a lot. ActionJackson

Hi Rich. Just finished removing the plug from the exhaust system and ran the generator hard, as per manual instructions. Not sure how much carbon soot came out, but not as much as I thought. Maybe a couple of tablespoons. Hard to tell with the wind. Closed it up. Also replaced the fuel filter. It had approx. 700 hours, so it was probably time as well. I'm stil not sure I understand the glow plugs and how to access them. Thanks to you and Bett for all your help. Quite a learning curve. actionjackson

Thanks Herman. The anwer is no. The situation has never arisen, yet. To answer Rich's question regarding the fault code. I erred. The correct fault code was 3-6, as I originally suspected. I've been outside working on replacing the oil filter with a generic filter and so far am sticking with either the Onan and/or WIX. We're heading west to California this winter and will try running the genny over the Rockies and see what happens. I'm surprised that someone hasn't weighed in on this subject. I can't be the first soul to run afoul of high altitude starting. Somebody must have booned in Butte.