dickandlois
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Posts posted by dickandlois
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Mikew72, Think Bill is asking you to post some pictures of the damaged area of the coach, so the forum members can get a good look at the area you are requesting help on.
Rich.
This is a Brochure link. What storage door? what model ?
https://library.rvusa.com/brochure/15_Freelander_C.pdf
Coach is built by Forest River.
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bubbasid, Could you post you coach model year and how many miles on it for the group? There has been some issues with the original spark plugs used in the Triton engine.
Rich.
Thanks Brett !
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I have used wooden matches, the small or larger kitchen matches - cut to the proper length, soak it in water for about 20 min.(water is the catalyst for the glue) / put some Gorilla glue on the little dowel. Place it in the over sized hole and let it dry over night. The excess can be removed with a pocket knife - so it is level with the wood and use the same screws to hold the cover.
NOTE, The glue expands - so one does not need much more the 2 small drops for small holes. Larger holes and dowels will require 3 to 6 drops. Bigger to fix the more glue required.
Rich.
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Joe , I do not know if Harley is using the (CAN) Closed area network to monitor the bikes electrical system and digital voltage controls for the LED's.
Check with them for the proper information.
No CAN bus, then standard LED's should work if the bike comes with them. Note! not all LED's are created equal.
Rich.
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1 hour ago, wolfe10 said:I suspect a much less "robust" Allison with a 150 HP 1990 rig. Might be an AT545.
Brett, this is some information I found on the AT545. Not sure it would be an ideal fit.
The AT545 just freewheels! you can only control your speed with the brake.
Rich.
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With the interdiction of the CAN computer controlled systems in vehicles LED's Have been been changed to work with this technology.
This is how one test's them.
CAN Bus LED bulbs are simple plug-and- play LED bulbs which are made specifically for CAN Bus-equipped vehicles. These bulbs work with your vehicle's advanced computer system, so when your vehicle's computer reads them, they respond back correctly.
To see if your vehicle operates with a CAN Bus system, simply remove the bulb you're looking to replace, start your vehicle, and if you have a "Bulb Out" message on your dash you have a CAN Bus system.Rich.
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12 hours ago, rsbilledwards said:Hey Rich do you have the addition to that manual that includes the slide. On a Safari an additional manifold was added to operate the slide. I need the electrical schematic .
Bill, I sent you a PM with a little information on the add on for the slide out circuit and that extra manifold.
Rich.
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On 10/18/2018 at 9:20 PM, kwl0525 said:I have a 2003 Monaco Cayman that has the RVA JII 22.5A jack system and one of the jacks is leaking fluid when extended. Apparently RVA is now out of business so contacting them isn't an option, and other hydraulic levels by other manufacturers are not compatible. I did contact HWH to see if they have a replacement system, but their 4 point leveling systems aren't compatible with the Roadmaster chassis on my unit (an R4R), so that isn't an option.
Does anyone have any ideas on how I can get this thing fixed? I'm going to check with some hydraulic system companies locally to see if they could possible work on this thing, but I'll take any suggestions....
Thanks!
Many hydraulic shops can repair the cylinders. This is a manual for the system that should offer some help with the repair of the system and how they are wired and plumed. many of the parts used are available or adaptable to the older systems
RVA leveling PDF file covers system operation, hydraulics and wiring.
Hydraulic system parts offers some information on the 12 volt operated jack valve parts that should get you close to what was used to build the manifold system. There are other part outlets one can use.
The third PDF File is for the ADD On For a slide Room.
Rich.
RVA_Auto_Leveling_System_autopr80405.pdf
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Eddie, Looking at your pictures. I have had leaks develop where the rear cap and roof seam overlap on the roof. There is difference in the expansion and contraction coefficients between the fiberglass and the roof structure materials.
A leak in the seam sealing compound - will develop over time and once water gets between the top edge and the outside wall can travel unseen until it appears on the floor. You leak looks like it is at the top , near the opening for the slide wall from what I can tell from the water stained area.
Rich.
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dekontz6234
I do not disagree with Carl, cmarq or Herman.
When the Engine is running - oil pressure is higher then the coolant pressure and when the engine is hot and not running - The coolant pressure is higher then the oil pressure. From your information / there is no oil in the coolant - only coolant in the oil. One way cross barrier transfer from coolant to oil? Water pump issue?
Engines are setup different for different applications - Water cooled air compressor?
Good luck !
Rich.
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dekontz6234
3 weeks later I started the engine and the low coolant light came on. I checked the oil and it was a milky grey color.
From the time you parked the coach at the park, was the engine ever restarted?
Like Carl asked, What was the ambient temperature swing from cool morning to the high point during the day; over the 21 days?
Rich.
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4 hours ago, dkontz6234 said:I have a Cummins 400 diesel engine and I have coolant in the oil. I had the oil cooler replaced and it happened again. Any ideas on what else could cause this?
There is a possibility of a blown head gasket, cracked head.
Engine running Rough or white smoke in the exhaust?
What year is the Coach / Engine ?
Rich.
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Been looking Also Richard ! There is a higher then I would expect issue or failure rate.
This is some information covering a high on / off cycle rate on the units, But no mention of seized compressor .
Generally with what you have described, I would look for the location of the sensing tube for the manual thermostat. The end of the sensing tube should be hovering right over the filter. If it is close to the evaporator coil, or close to the supply air chute, it could be sensing the colder temperature, and shutting the compressor down prematurely. Also, if the room temperature is near 65°F, the thermostat may be shutting it down normally. The lowest point that thermostat will run is right around 65. Interesting.
Let me know what you find.
Eric Botts
Technical Assistance Coordinator
RV Products, a division of Airxcel, Inc.Eric should be a lot closer then we are though
Rich
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The Original Poster has not mentioned any information regarding a ducted system. Sounds like the RV has just a single Mach 8, 15000 BTU, with heat pump.
This Air Excel unit is a newer Low profile design, with 2 fans and is supposed to have the same low temperature cooling on both high and low speeds. The design sounds like it has a reversing solenoid that allows the units to transition from cooling to heating.
The only items I can think of that would cause the compressors to fail on a total of 4 units is excessive head pressure - freeze up of the evaporator / cause ,could be the freeze protection circuit(this style circuit has been around for years on AC systems),but are both the condenser and the evaporator coils protected with this type circuit or the transition Solenoid not being able to move the slide valve through a full travel / OR the high pressure switch / Freeze switch common relay coil is failing - or the contacts of the relay can not handle the compressor start current. The Fan motor and compressor motors both run through the relay contacts. The blower motor does not go through this relay.
The drawing of the electrical wiring does not show some parts that IMHO should be in the circuit to protect the system from counter EMF pules or high current surges from the starting and run capacitors.
Tried to find any information on the number of recalls on this size and design, with no luck.
If the Original Poster has had this issue - there should be a number of other owners with the same issue
Rich.
I'm totally aware that I have listed items beyond 99 + percent of RV owners skill sets or knowledge base.
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Kimberlytene, Welcome to the FMCA Forum !
You might find a machine shop that could make the rails and the support arms if needed. You will need some good measurements.
The other option might be a RV salvage yard.
This is a link to a service center in Canada that might have some information or have a set you could get off a used unit.
Rich.
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51 minutes ago, waynemcisaac said:Wondering if a small crack in windshield that is not through the whole glass can be filled or will have to be replaced. Our insurance has 4000 deductible
The answer depends on the state inspection requirements for one and the second depends on where the crack is located and its present length.
Some cracks can be stopped by drilling a small hole at the end of a crack and then injecting some clear epoxy at that point - kind of like fixing a stone chip before it spider webs.
That kind of repair is covered by some glass converges or a fee of 60 to 80 dollars in others.
Think it would be worth checking with an RV glass repair center and asking why the glass (Sounds Like it has a Stress fracture)
Rich.
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Bubba T, Welcome to the FMCA Forum !
Question, When your Units fail, are you running them in AC mode during the day and in the Heat mode during the evening ? Like setting the temperature at 70 to 75 degrees - where the units would switch from cooling to heating ! When they tend to fail.
Rich.
Airexcel makes a number of brands of Roof AC / Heat pump units.
Note! This link is supplied for use by an authorized service center. However ! it can prove helpful for owners that have AC / Heat Pump units installed on Horse Trailers to Class AD Motorhomes. The Video describes what information is need and where to find part numbers and readings needed to help expatiate service.
https://www.airxcel.com/coleman-mach/technical-service-videos
https://www.airxcel.com/coleman-mach/service-support/model-number-changes
The PDF file on the in question in this post.
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13 hours ago, Monacoman06 said:I have a 2006 Monaco Dynasty with a dash air conditioning problem. The system quit cooling and I added Freon and it worked for about a day then quit cooling again. I took it into a very knowledgeable technician and he recharged the system and found the AC condenser was leaking. The condenser is mounted in front of the side mounted radiator in the rear. While recharging the system he noted the high pressure side was reaching 500 PSI and shutting off. He said that there needs to be some type of switch or something to make the hydraulic fans turn at a higher RPM to bring the condenser temperature down instead of an emergency type high pressure shut down of the compressor. He felt that the high pressure in the system most likely caused the condenser leak and that if a new condenser was installed it would most likely start leaking because of the extreme pressure in the system. He tried calling The RAV Group that apparently now owns the Monaco lines. They were of no help in trying to diagnose why the pressure was getting so high. If anyone has any ideas about what triggers the cooling of the side mounted AC condenser I would appreciate their comments. I do not want to replace the condenser until I can get the extreme pressures reduced which will require that the cooling fans are cooling the condenser to reduce the temperatures and thus the pressure in the system.
Thanks, Jim
Jim, Welcome to the Forum !
Could you list / Do you know who's AC system was used on your coach ?
Denso is a large supplier for RV dash AC systems. If you can get to the Engine area - The Compressor is visible in most cases.
Rich.
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2 hours ago, rgaines41 said:Is there a best ride non-tag class a motorhome out there or are they all about the same?
They are pretty close ride wise. Wheelbase and airbag setup also has some affect on how they handle and ride. Proper ride height setup has a noticeable affect on how they handle and ride.
Rich
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Rick, Welcome to the FMCA Forum !
If the air bags deflated - you should have had an alarm going off.
Quick check is to park the coach on level ground and block the tires - both rears / front of tires and back of the tires(only need to block one tire on each side) Release the parking breaks. Knowing the Year would give us some needed info.
Assuming you have air brakes. with the coach parked engine OFF- pump the the air brakes until you hear the alarm, keep pumping the brakes and at about 45 lbs of air or a little lower the Yellow park Brake will pop out. This is a simple test one should do before hitting the road, each day you plan on traveling is a good habit to get into !!
Rich.
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When something fails on our coach and I have had a longer then expected replacement time. I carry a spare when on longer trips. Radiators and CAC's are a bit bigger though. Have had to have a friend run down items, owned a privet parts store and he would do the leg work, find items and ship them to me. Sadly he has passed away, so that little ace in my back pocket is no longer there .
Should you have someone like him, you are very fortunate indeed !
Rich.
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15 hours ago, psandoz said:I saw several others discussing phantom air brake alarms on this site. We have a 2000 Damon Ultrasport on a freightliner chassis. Air pressure is fine, gauges read 120 psi +. Mechanic has checked all fluid levels, everything is ok. When the coach is in drive, air brake off, the air brake alarm starts beeping 10 seconds after engaging transmission. Does the same in reverse. Same alarm as when coach is in neutral with no brake, air brake alarm warns that the parking brake is not engaged. No alarm when coach is in neutral and air brake is in park position (as expected). I can't find a schematic for the coach to show if there is a low pressure alarm. Looked at the 2 air tanks and even bleed them down to zero, no change. Pressure came back to 120+ psi, brakes work fine, airbags work fine. Just seems there is a faulty low pressure switch connected to the transmission? Appreciate any suggestions or experience other members may have.
What Leveling system is used on your coach ? When the fluid level drops on hydraulic leveling systems - there is an alarm indicating a low fluid in the leveling system. Did the Mechanic check the leveling system fluid ? and is the sensor float adjusted properly ?
The other item to check on is the VDU Module. They have had issues with the solder connections that can cause erratic pressure readings and air pressure alarm to go off. The mentioned module was used on the model year of your freight liner chassis.
They can be repaired in many cases - it you know a good electronics tech. Replacing them can run well over $ 1000.00, plus the labor.
Rich.
There are no Air lines connected to the Transmission on any of the Drawings I have for the freightliner chassis. There is(are) some wiring circuits that cause an alarm to sound when the transmissions are in gear when the park / air brake is engaged, or in some cases where a slide is not in. The coach builders add safety alarm systems that are not part of the original chassis.
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Check the loaded weight - all four corners is the best way.
We travel with only 3/8 tank of potable water and empty gray an black tanks as much as possible .
Rich.
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Rick, Thanks for the feedback !
This file should help it covers your leveling system well.
Rich.
Dash heater vacuum lines?
in Systems and Appliances
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Does the vacuum pump run? Look on the fire wall, driver side, next to the window washer fluid tank. If It is running - is it making vacuum? The Vacuum pump should start running as soon as you turn on the key.
The system was installed by the coach builder. So you might want to look up information covering the system here.
Rich.
Damon Corporation
2958 Gateway Drive
Elkhart, IN 46514
Phone: 574-262-2624
Toll-Free: 800-860-5658
Fax: 574-262-4850