five
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Content Count
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Posts posted by five
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HWH recommends using WD-40. Check this link.http://www.winnebagoind.com/resources/service/pdfs/2010-08%20Care%20of%20HWH%20Jacks.pdf
WD 40 is good for loosening nuts, bolts, etc. However, as a lubricant, it attracks crud, road grime, dirt and everything else on the road which defeats it's purpose. I'm surprised HWH still recommends it. We have a sailboat and were advised to use dry lube for all moving parts...which makes sense for MHs.
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Not so with Flying J and Pilot. You might want to re-check your information. I don't always use PFJ, but when I must it's very easy and only requires the swipe of a card at the pump.Thanks, maybe they've changed and I need to check them out again. My previous comments were based on personal experience, not any "information" I have gotten elsewhere.
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Butch,...My Monaco will start to rise to the Travel position as soon as I start the engine...
Herman
Same here.
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Thanks my friend. From the monaco web site it looks like a 2006 Holiday Rambler Navigator 45PBQ & there is one for sale in Alvarado, Texas.Bill
There are two dealers in Alvarado...which has it listed?
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I avoid all the national big rig stops. In my experience, most are crowded, dirty, charge more (not less) for fuel, make you go inside to turn the pump on, back inside to pay...a royal PITA. I look at The Next Exit and try to find a big rig friendly station that sells lots of full.
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Sorry...didn't realize it was UNDER the slide topper. A new seal around the slide top and upper sides should solve your problem. Had that problem with a 5th wheel.
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Have you tried getting on the roof and sweeping off the water prior to pulling in the slides?
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...Why would you automatically assume a device designed and manufactured for a specific purpose will probably damage or impede the operation of the device it is intended for? Let's be factual instead of assumptive....Camping World et al, make lots of things that should never be used on RVs, but people keep buying them, so CW keeps making them. Typical example is supports they make to put under slides. In every RV we have had with slides, the manual said not to use supports...if there is a flat tire, the coach settles but the supports keep the slide from moving with the coach resulting in serious damage.
Re screens...we had them and the refrig was not working correctly...removed the screens, now all is well. I have also added an AC powered fan in the upper left corner of the back of the refrig to help with cooling.
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You lose about 3% of power for every 1,000' of altitude gained.
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The weight to be concerned with is the coach's GCWR, not the GVWR. Add the loaded weights of the RV and toad, if it is below the GCWR, I see no problem.
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We try to avoid the big national chains...PFJ, Loves, etc They are usually crowded, dirty and don't give that good a price. The discount they like to give brings the price down to where it should be and many others are. We try to find big rig friendly stations that pump lots of fuel.
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Allegiance40XIf you notice in my original post I mentioned that our unit is stored 45 minutes away from our home.
It's not exactly convenient to drive 45 minutes there and 45 minutes back the night before to turn on the refer each time we want to use the coach.
Being reasonably intelligent I do realize that the alternative to leaving the refer on.............. is to turn it off.
The purpose of my post was to find a way to leave the refer on.........and avoid the only other alternative........... of turning it off.
Just making a suggestion and expressing an opinion...not a comment on your intelligence.
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Why not just unplug the refer when stored? That's what we do, then plug it in the night before a trip and it's cold in the AM.
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My name is Nick. I work on the new 6T30/40/45/50 fwd 6 speeds at General Motors within transmission development. In particular, I'm in charge of validation for dinghy towing.I'm after some feedback, regardless of vehicle make, about the vehicle you currently dinghy tow (or have towed in the past).
1. How many miles do you typically dinghy tow your vehicle yearly? 7,000
2. What is the total tow mileage you have on your vehicle now? 12,000 (2011 CRV)
3. What is the total tow mileage you expect to put on the vehicle before you upgrade to a new vehicle? UNLIMITED
4. When towing, what is the average amount of time between stops? (be it restroom or fuel) THREE HRS.
5. How often do you stop for a period of 10 min or more? (be it restroom, stretch, eat, fuel) EVERY THREE HRS...CAN BE ANYWHERE FROM ONE TO THREE
6. What is your preferred cruising speed? 60 TO 62
7. Do you use a rock shield? YES
8. Where does the rock shield mount? (bumper,towbar,dinghy, or... so what type) BOLTED UNDER REAR OF MH
Your feedback would be greatly appreciated, which will help me better tune our internal testing requirements to better meet and exceed actual customer usage.
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The prior owner's last used 5W20 and this is what is on the cap on the engine.
Thanks!
If that is the OEM oil cap, you have answered your own question. If not, get the manual or call Ford.
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Your coach should have a heated basement...run the normal heat and the tanks/lines will be okay.
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As noted above, compare the cost of an oil change versus the cost of serious engine problem if the warranty is voided.
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Thanks...next time I go down to the MH I'll get the information.
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Protect All is the only product I have found that can be used on everything...paint, fiberglass, chrome, rubber, windows, plactic, etc.
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My manual says not to lift any wheels off the ground. The rear being key since that's where the brakes are.
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I wish you well with your travels and Thousand Trails. We were members for three years and let the membership drop. It seems every place we went, all the good spots (shade, spacious, room between rigs, etc) were occupied by an annual renter. So while we drove around looking for a suitable space, most of the ones we would have liked to use were taken by an empty RV.
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Y'all need to move a bit farther south, we don't:
- Have many obnoxious folks like you saw, who deal with the public.
- Have very many toll roads.
- Have high BP due to the above issues:)
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Lots of good advice here. Where I park my MH in the winter has VERY reliable power. Therefore, I place small lamps with 60w bulbs in places that normally would require A/F...next to water pump, W/D, Aqua Hot, in back of refrig, etc. I always put the pink stuff in the toilet bowl and in the P traps. If there is any question of the power staying on, I run the pink stuff through the lines, not worth taking a chance on having a line freeze.
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CRV...problem solved:)
Antenna Booster and Water Separator on Bounder?
in Type A motorhomes
Posted · Report reply
Assuming you have a diesel, the water separator will be on the bottom of the primary fuel filter.