wolfe10

Since you will likely replace them based on AGE, not miles, make sure that they are not over 6 months old-- and newer than that is better. Last four digits of the code on the sidewall beginning with DOT.............. indicate the WEEK and YEAR of production. Example: DOT...............1110 were made the 11th week of 2010. Brett

George, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Hopefully, someone with that model will be able to help. But, many of the owners manuals for equipment ARE available: What chassis do you have? Information on engine, transmission, brakes, etc., is easily available and many of your questions can be answered here on the forum. Most appliances in your coach have owners manuals available, and many are online. Again, ask questions in the appropriate category. Only house and wiring diagrams are unique to a coach model. They share most components with other coaches. Brett

Ansy, Yes, as Bill said, the more information you can give us as what kind of things interest you, your wife, your daughter and particularly your grandchild the better we can advise. And how long do you have for the drive down and back in addition to the week in Branson? Brett

In Redmond, I will be moderating the Towing and Toad Brake Seminars, giving the Caterpillar Engine Maintenance and FMCA Forum Seminars (hope many of you will be able to attend the Forum Seminar-- a chance to put a face with a name) and serving on the "Ask the Expert" Seminar Panel. Brett

First, I am in total agreement with you that weight capacities need to be easily understood by consumers and "adequate for their intended purpose". And I have said this for many, many years. But, I don't think it is right to make a judgment on this particular coach/manufacturer based on the weights posted in the article. We all KNOW that either the numbers are incorrect or there is an easily correctable issue with the test coach. I am talking about moving well more than 2000 pounds from tag to drive axle. Most 30,000 pound drive/tag axles have a 20,000 pound drive axle and 10,000 pound tag axle. With the article listing tag axle actual weight AS MORE THAN the drive axle.... clearly something is amiss. Let's all wait for a response from Winnebago or a post with more realistic front/drive/tag axle distributions. THEN we can compliment or condemn. Brett

WOW! I am surprised that anyone would recommend towing a 3,700 pound vehicle without tow brakes. Particularly behind a smaller DP/smaller engine. The ISB clearly has less braking HP than larger engines, so even with a much lighter toad, I would suggest auxiliary brakes. Brett

Not sure how you would define "best". Best independent of cost: Deep cycle AGM batteries-- expensive, but accept a charge faster than wet cell batteries (less generator run time), do not require you to check water level (Absorbed Glass Mat construction), have a lower self-discharge rate, etc. I have used this technology in our sail boats and RV's for close to 20 years. This is the brand I use: http://www.lifelinebatteries.com/ Best performance/$ are golf cart batteries (6 volt deep cycle batteries wired in series to make 12 VDC batteries). There are 12 VDC deep cycle batteries available, but they are rare. Most you will find are "compromise" batteries-- marine starting AND deep cycle batteries. They are a second rate choice for deep cycle work, particularly dry camping as you do when compared with true deep cycle batteries.

Boy, that is a tough one. Without knowing whether you have the time, inclination and ability to do this yourself, I really can't tell you which way to go. I will tell you what would be involved if you want to do this yourself-- look it over and then decide if you want to do part or all of this yourself. First step is to check the water level in the batteries. Make sure they are filled to just below the ring in each cell. Then you need to fully charge the batteries (plug into shore power overnight and verify that the converter, charger or inverter/charger is working). A digital voltmeter will verify that they are being charged-- voltage should be 13.2-14.2 VDC at the batteries once batteries are no longer deeply discharged and depending on what converter or charger you have. Next, decide if you want to remove the batteries yourself for testing or take the coach to someone to do it. Either way, take a digital photo of how they are wired to make reassembly easier. Take the coach (or batteries if you remove them) by most any auto parts house that sells batteries and have them load test them-- generally for FREE. You might choose the store by what brand/size battery you want to replace them with if they do test bad. If going with pairs of 6 VDC deep cycle batteries (in series to make 12 VDC) be sure to check with local golf cart shops. Brett

Yes, many more motorhomes ride on Michelin than any other brand. Therefore more trouble free miles AND one would expect also more problems-- even if their reliability exceeds others. I am not suggesting which is best, but from a statistics standpoint one should look at failure rate/mile or failure rate/tire, not total number of failures. Were we to just consider total number of failures, a cheap Chinese tire that has only been imported for a year or two would WIN??? We have 151,000 miles on our coach, all on Michelin (third set because of age-- 17 1/2 year old coach) with zero failures and very seldom that I even have to add air. We are quite happy with Michelin. One of the secrets to any tire's longevity is that it is properly sized to carry the actual load (see my post above). A tire that is carrying 100% of its designed capacity WILL be more prone to failure than one sized with a safety reserve. And a corollary: if it is carrying its maximum capacity ANY PSI less than full PSI will have the tire operating under inflated/over loaded. One cost cutting measure at many chassis makers through the years is to spec a "barely adequately" sized tire. Save a few dollars times 6 tires on every chassis. THAT is why I suggested above verifying that you have a tire with some reserve capacity-- irrespective of brand. Brett

From the article: AS-TESTED WEIGHT (weighed with full water and fuel) front axle — 13,520 pounds; rear drive axle — 10,420 pounds; tag axle — 10,760 pounds; total — 34,700 pounds I would suggest that the tag axle is WAY mis-adjusted, causing the problem. Remember, taking weight on the tag removes weight from the drive axle AND ADDS WEIGHT TO THE FRONT AXLE. No way should the tag axle be carrying more (or even close to the same) weight as the drive axle. Yes, this should have been checked and adjusted at the Winnebago factory. Brett

Mikev, There is too much here that is coach specific in terms of tire to chassis and tire to coach clearance for me to be able to give advice. Hopefully, others with the same chassis and coach (you might post specific information on your chassis and coach, as others may have the same model or a different Monaco product on the same chassis) who can give you specific information. I would also ask this question of Monaco and of Source Engineering, as they may have first hand experience with this upgrade. Brett

Clinton, I am not familiar with the product, but a couple of cautions. Remember that it is attached to the very back of the coach WAY back of the rear axle. Any weight on the hitch will add a significantly larger amount of weight to the rear axle and remove weight from the front axle. Also, over bumps, with the hitch that far behind the rear axle, there will be a lot of vertical motion-- don't know how that well affect this carrier. Brett

A couple of cautions here (most of which I think you are aware of): Never put tires of different diameters on one side of a dual-- the "taller" tire will carry most of the weight. This means not only don't mix sizes, but also don't pair an old tire (less tread) with a new one (more tread). If you consider a different than OE tire, make sure that it is of the same load carrying capacity or higher than the original. Brett

Monaco should be able to get you a part number and/or the latch. Give them a call. Brett

John, A short mechanical question: How often do you lube your PacBrake (PacBrake sells a special high temp lube-- under $10 for enough to last the life of the coach): http://www.pacbrake.com/index.php?page=maintenance Brett

Don, There is no way your question can be answered WITHOUT fully charging them and THEN testing them. Said another way, there is no way to prove a fully discharged battery as good or bad. So, plug it in to shore power so your converter or inverter/charger can bring them to full state of charge (or start generator and charge from it until it can be moved to a site with shore power). It will take at least overnight to get them fully charged. If wet cell batteries, most reliable indicator is Specific Gravity which you check with a battery hydrometer (around $5 at any auto parts store). THEN determine if their life was just shortened or terminated. Brett

KYM, What size tire and what do you have on it now? Second question: Have you weighed the individual wheel positions (best) or axles and do the tires have extra capacity? Said another way, are your tires maxed out on what they can carry, or do you have some safety reserve? Also, when buying new tires, make sure they are NEW, because you will likely replace them due to age, not tread wear. The last 4 digits of the DOT number tell you the WEEK and YEAR the tires were made. Best to get them within 3 or 4 months of new. Brett

CONGRATULATIONS! Brett

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Those do look very similar. But if not close enough, you might proceed along these lines: What brand coach? If they are still in business, that would be your first call. Another alternative would be an RV salvage yard. There are several threads with excellent lists here on the Forum. Just click on "Search" along the top of this page and type in "salvage". Brett

COME PUT A FACE WITH THOSE FORUM NAMES! Thursday 11:30 a.m. to 12:45 p.m. SEMINAR 3 A GREAT INFORMATION RESOURCE: FMCA FORUMS ON FMCA.COM The FMCA.com Forum is not even 2 years old and it already has approximately 15,000 registered members (no cost). They’re using the forum to find and share information about every motorhoming topic imaginable, from technical to destinations. This seminar is your chance to meet other forum members, ask questions, and get useful tips. Everyone is encouraged to attend, including forum newbies and experienced forum users. So, who is going to be in Redmond? Brett

Sam, I just sent them an e-mail asking how their adapter works with a GFI protected 15/20 amp CG outlet. Will post the answer. Brett

Sam, This "adapter" is used to hook up a 30 and 15/20 CG outlet to a a 50 amp coach. I don't know how it will interface with your 30 amp and the wiring on your coach. Were you to upgrade your coach to 50 amp shore power, it would work, WITH THE FOLLOWING CAVEAT. Electric code (for many years) calls for any 15 or 20 amp outlet to be GFI protected. If the 15 or 20 is GFI protected, this device will trip the GFI instantly, so it will not work. Yes, there are some older parks without GFI's where it would work. Also, please check with a CG before using this-- it will clearly allow the use of more amps than a regular 30 amp connection, so there may be an up charge. Brett

Wow, never seen that one. The Cat 3208 was normally mated with a 4 speed hydraulic controlled Allison. In later years, the Cat 3116 WAS paired with the Allison MD3060 6 speed. And is it 12VDC or 24 VDC? Brett

Dianne and I always have planned to arrive midway through our arrival time -- many seem to want to go at the beginning and end, so we have found he middle to be less congested. Brett

You do no state what drivetrain (engine and transmission) you have. 24 VDC is unusual in a motorhome of that size-- are you sure it isn't 12 VDC? The amount of internal damage to the engine or transmission would depend on how hot particular areas got. It will also depend on whether they are electronic controlled engine/transmissions. If electronic, all electronic components will have to be checked carefully. I would NOT attempt to start the engine until engine and transmission wiring is proven, as additional damage can be done. Brett