wolfe10

Just FYI, we have never used any holding tank chemicals, nor have we had holding tank odors in the coach. There is really no way to make a holding tank smell good. The concept in an RV is to isolate the tank from the interior such that air does not move from tank to interior. A properly designed black and gray water system that is kept in good working condition SHOULDN'T allow odors from tank to interior. Brett

Yes, "Mr. Ohm" and his laws are certainly involved. The longer the run the larger the gauge wire that is needed. For runs up to 100' you will be OK with 6/3. And 6/3 DOES have two hots, a neutral AND A GROUND wire. Brett

I will pass this along from another generator expert when I asked him to look at this thread: Agree with Jim. Probably solenoid sticking, pull in coil still running which will cause the breaker to trip in a few minutes. DKD is not a current production machine, been a number of years since they made them. With 200 hours on it, could also be a gummed up electric fuel pump. Brett

Gil, What are the symptoms when it quits? Does it just die-- run perfectly one minute and shut off as if you hit the kill switch? OR Does it surge or give any other mechanical distress signs before quiting? How much electrical load are you running-- one A/C, two, etc)? Brett

Absolutely. If you choose to park somewhere else and drive in, your badges will get you into all events. Brett

No worries-- that is Oregon (Convention) 2010 (as opposed to the last time the convention was here). All attendees will have OR 10. Brett

PLEASE, stop relying on anything other than weighing and setting PSI based on FACTS. The OPINIONS of others are not relevant! Brett

Ron, No, I use wax on the rest. Generally refer to Consumer Report when I get ready to buy wax for their recommendation in the current "best" brand. Brett

The device Ed is describing will work only in CG's that are NOT wired to code. Current electrical code (for many years) calls for the 15/20 amp ("regular") outlet to be GFI protected. If it is, the GFI will trip instantly with this device. Brett

Don, Even 20 amps continuous @110 VAC is just fine and at 108 is still acceptable. And on 30 amps, there is NO L1 vs L2-- in the 30 amp male to 50 amp female adapter, the single hot in the 30 amp is tied to BOTH L1 and L2 on the 50 amp end. Said another way, they are both on the same leg. And Bill is absolutely correct: RV math says 30 amp service provides 30 amps, 50 amp service provides 50 times 2=100 amps. Brett

Do not use ANY wax on your vinyl decals. 303 Aerospace is the only thing I know of that is safe to use on vinyl:http://www.303products.com/shop303/index.c...-protectant.cfm Brett

Don, What was your voltage on shore power while running those heavy electrical loads? Brett

Don, What surface? Gel coated fiberglass? Filon? Paint? Are there any vinyl graphics? Brett

Bob, Don't know what area of the country you are in, but, any computer store should have 12 VDC muffin fans, or look on the Internet.

Without weighing it and then going to the tire manufacturer's PSI/load chart, NO ONE can tell you the correct PSI. That includes Ford dealers, tire dealers, RV manufacturers, etc! Brett

The PSI on the sidewall of the tire is PSI IF it is carrying its maximum load (also on the sidewall). The PSI on the GVWR tag is correct IF each axle is loaded to its GAWR (Gross Axle Weight Ratiing). Your next step is to weigh each axle (or better yet, each wheel position). Then, go to your tire manufacturer's PSI/load chart for your tires. That gives you the minimum PSI for that weight. Most suggest adding 5 PSI to that minimum as a safety reserve. Condensed version is that you MAY be well over-inflating the tires. No way to know without weighing. And over-inflated tires is a sure-fire way to get a rough ride. Brett

Let's start at the beginning: What chassis? What are the GAWR's (on plaque by driver's area)? What are actual axle weights? Is tire pressure set to tire manufacturer's recommendation (plus, perhaps 5 PSI as a safety reserve) based on the heavier wheel position on each axle-- all tires on an axle carrying the same PSI? How many miles on it? Brett

Tom, I will be presenting this seminar on Thursday -- many of those you see here on the Forum will be there: 11:30 a.m. to 12:45 p.m. A GREAT INFORMATION RESOURCE: FMCA FORUMS ON FMCA.COM, SEMINAR 3 The FMCA.com Forum is not even 2 years old and it already has approximately 15,000 registered members (no cost). Theyre using the forum to find and share information about every motorhoming topic imaginable, from technical to destinations. This seminar is your chance to meet other forum members, ask questions, and get useful tips. Everyone is encouraged to attend, including forum newbies and experienced forum users. Brett

Tom. Welcome to the FMCA Forum. The VAST majority of seminars are free and require no sign-up. Those that do are identified in the program that you will get when you arrive at the Convention. Craft Seminars generally DO require sign-up and usually a fee to cover the cost of materials. For an up-to-date list of seminars: http://www.fmca.com/index.php/conventions/...d/3147-seminars You might also plan to attend Jerry Yeatts's seminar on Tuesday 2:15 p.m. to 3:30 p.m.: ORIENTATION FOR FIRST-TIME ATTENDEES, SEMINAR 6 Jerry Yeatts, F390000, convention director of FMCA, will conduct a seminar to introduce first-time attendees to the fun, spirit, activities, and opportunities related to FMCA membership and attending rallies and conventions. Be sure to bring your convention program. This seminar will be repeated on Wednesday, August 11, from 8:15 a.m. to 9:30 a.m., in Seminar 2. Brett

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Give Monaco a call-- they are the ones who speced the windshield wipers. Brett

If you don't dry camp and don't use your inverter, then yes 2 (around 220 amp-hrs @12 VDC) or 4 (around 440 amp-hrs @12 VDC) will be fine. But, it is the inverter, not the slide that requires a large battery bank. The power to move the slide can be gotten from the alternator (if the engine is still running), shore power powering the inverter/charger or generator powering the inverter/charger. Brett

Yes, you should be able to access the top of the cooling unit from the roof by removing the cover. Then just drop down the + and - wires. I routed my fan + to the panel controlling interior 12 VDC lights next to the refrigerator-- just replaced a two gang switch with a three. The amp draw of the fans should not be an issue. DO insure that they exhaust UP. Turn them on any time the refrigerator is under a real extra heat load-- that side in the sun, just turned it on or defrosted, etc. Also while that roof cover is off, check clearance dimensions to the outer wall. If excessive, should not be that big a job to use builder adhesive to attach strips of foil covered insulation cut to fit through the roof vent. Brett

Yes, the "Dollar Bill" test is to insert a dollar ($10 bills work better and $100 bills almost insure success) all around the refrigerator gasket. Close the door on the bill and insure that you have the same amount of drag all the way around. This suggests that the door is centered in the opening and that the gasket is sealing well. Also, check the condensate drain hose (outside access door) to make sure the restriction is in the end of the hose. If not, hot humid air rises in the tube and enters the refrigerator. Is the refrigerator in a slide (therefore side upper/exhaust vent) or solid part of the coach (therefore roof-top exhaust vent). Clearly, the roof vent is more effective at venting the heat produced by the cooling process? In either case, you can gain some efficiency by installing two 12 VDC muffin fans at the top of the cooling unit exhausting UP. They can be controlled by a switch that you manually turn on or by a thermostat. There is also some fine tuning that you can do if your coach builder did not do the most efficient installation. Read your refrigerator owners manual for recommended clearances-- particularly clearance to back (outside wall). If back clearance is excessive, consider using foil covered foam insulation board on the outer wall which will both bring clearance dimension into specs, but will also provide some insulation from direct sun. Also the shape of the top of the cabinet if a slide mounted unit. I have seen installations where there was a "heat trap" at the top with the wall mounted upper vent BELOW the level of the area where the heat collects. Obviously, the other variable that you control is the number of times the refrigerator is opened, particularly in the hot part of the day. Brett

I guess I'll have to cast a contrary opinion. We have driven the Parkway twice in our 36' motorhome and find it a delight. BUT, this presumes that you are you are comfortable and safe (both rig and driver) with lots of grades and curvy roads. It is NOT a "put it in 'D' and go" road! If this is not your cup of tea-- as others have suggested, do it by toad. Same for Natchez Trace and a few others beautiful drives in our country. Brett

Yes, a PSI increase from cold of 80 to driving PSI of 90-95 sounds normal. A temperature reading while driving of only 4 degrees F higher than ambient sounds low. Brett