wolfe10
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Posts posted by wolfe10
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The "T" valves are the air tank drains.
Assuming your coach has an air dryer (most do), the opening them briefly is basically a "report card" on the functioning of the air dryer. You should only get clean, dry air out.
If you recall working with an air compressor (like the air chucks at convenience stores), compressing air "squeezes" the water out of the air/condenses it.
Same happens in your engine driven compressor. Water is harmful to the mechanical components of your brake and suspension, so an air dryer is fit. The air goes from the on-engine air compressor to an air dryer. The dryer removes the moisture from the air. It also has a filter that removes oil (that may have gotten by the rings in the air compressor). The air then goes to the storage tanks. So if you see any water or oil in the tank drains, the air dryer needs service. There will also be a recommended preventive service interval for the dryer in your chassis manual or air dryer manufacturer's manual.
And the stored water in the dryer is purged when the air compressor reaches "cut-out" pressure. That is the "sneeze" you hear when coach air pressure reaches cut out pressure.
Brett Wolfe
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Hi all,I'm doing research on RVs and was wondering if there is any special sort of device that keeps the water tank, or waste tanks level while driving.
Also more generally looking for unique features/technologies that RVs use that the average person would be interested in learning about. Is there anything really cool that makes RVing possible?
Welcome to the FMCA forum.
No, there are no "leveling devices" for tanks while driving. They are firmly bolted in place. Just as in fuel tanks, many are baffled to reduce sloshing.
There are several types of leveling devices once you are parked, including jacks and air leveling.
Brett Wolfe
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Doesn't everyone who drives a vehicle with air brakes have an air brake certificate or equivalent? As I am from British Columbia I need an endorsement on my drivers license which shows that I have taken the required air brake course, driving an air-brake equipped vehicle without this endorsement will void the vehicle insurance if you are in an accident. Whether or not it is mandatory, a course on air brakes and how they function is a good idea for anyone driving a vehicle with air brakes.Welcome to the FMCA Forum.
Simple answer is NO. Not all states require Air Brake Endorsements, even for vehicles with air brakes.
As you point out, it IS a very good idea for anyone with air brakes to understand how they function.
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I assume you have done a chapter search in your area: http://www.fmca.com/index.php?option=com_f...h&Itemid=98
Next would be to contact your Area Association -- in your case, the Rocky Mountain Area Association to see if they know if others may have similar interests and are geographically near you.
You can also contact the Rocky Mountain Area Association President:
Allen Rein - President
Cell 719-431-1605
arein1@gmail.com
Allen can also give you information on forming a new chapter. -
Just bought my first MH in October '09, on ebay. It came with all the manuals and pamphlets - but nowhere in them can I find listed the capacities of the three holding tanks. Anybody know? Thanks, MichaelMichael,
Welcome to the FMCA Forum.
Have you called Fleetwood with your coach VIN?
And hopefully, someone else has the same coach and can answer before Monday.
Brett Wolfe
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Well, I'm at a kinda quandary. The cover inside the coach says its a heat pump. The remote only has Furnace, Cool, Dry, Fan in the mode features. And the owners manual doesn't mention heat pump. nor does it mention heat strip. When the unit was off I pushed the "emergency heat" button and it started blowing warm air. So I guess I either don't have heat pumps or the dealer gave me the wrong remotes and manual. Go figure.
Ron
My suggestion is to look in the manual for the location of the model number. Copy that down and call Carrier for the FACTS. And if a heat strip model, check to see if yours is on the recall list.
Brett Wolfe
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Yes we are talking about November to May storage in Florida and there will be no shore power. I think I can talk my son into checking batteries and running the engine but he will NOT drive it!If it is not going to be driven, don't start the motor. Just starting and idling it does more harm than good.
Make sure you change the oil just before storing it unless the oil is less than a thousand or so miles old.
Inflate the tires to the max on the sidewall of the tire as long as it does not exceed rim max PSI (recommended by the tire manufacturers for extended storage).
Be sure you have a battery disconnect on the chassis and house batteries unless you have solar panel(s) keeping them up. The solar is a good idea BTW.
Have your son go over monthly, start the generator, turn on the A/C and let it run for 45 minutes. Then switch the A/C to fan for an additional 10 minutes to dry out the evaporator and allow the generator to cool down before shutting it down. That will help combat the normal battery self-discharge as well.
Obviously, covered storage is a lot easier on it from a sun-damage standpoint. Cover the tires if possible to keep the sun off them. 6 months of sun exposure with no driving is really hard on tires-- a main cause of sidewall cracks.
Brett Wolfe
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We are moving to Florida for the winter months and will be storing our 37". 2007 Damon Challenger for the Nov. to May period. We are accustomed to the winter storage issues and have a summer cottage in northern Wisconsin that is closed in the winter. How should we prepare the motorhome for storage in a humid hot climate? We are storing in a good, secure place but it will be outdoors and not checked or run for month or more at a time.Will you have shore power available?
To clarify we are talking about November to May in Florida?
And someone will be able to have access to drive it and run the generator on a monthly basis?
Brett Wolfe
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I am fairly new to the RV world. I have an 08 Tuscany with 2 heat pump/AC's. I haven't been able to figure out how to turn the heat pumps on. These are Carrier units.Thanks,
Ron
If you don't have your Carrier A/C owners manual, go to: http://www.airv.carrier.com/cac/home/0,298...ETI1977,00.html
Click on "Product Manuals" on the left side and select the manual for your unit. Note, not all Carrier A/C's are heat pumps. Some are A/C only and some are A/C with heat strips.
As a fall back position, call Carrier with your Carrier serial numbers: 1-866-GO4-AIRV (464-2478) Monday - Friday between 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. E.S.T. for immediate customer assistance.
Brett Wolfe
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Gary,
I view carrying spares as EQUALLY important for those who do their own work and those who "use their cell phone".
As I posted earlier, lots of other people can do the work for you (just pick up your cell phone). BUT, expecting that they can get their hands on the right part at 6 PM in the middle of nowhere is a completely different matter.
And, you mention carrying a spare unmounted tire in Mexico-- I do the same. I have no illusions of changing it myself. But with the proper tire, it is easy to have the spare mounted and installed locally. I view belts and filters in the same light.
Brett Wolfe
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I'm not familiar with the Cat engine, but if there is a pre-heater light on the instrument panel, I'd wait for it to go out before cranking the engine. You also may have a block heater. It typically requires plug in to 110 volts. In colder areas it may be advisable to plug it in to keep the block warm. I'm not sure just how much time is needed to heat the block with the block heater. Fortunately I live in a temperate climate. Brett will jump in and give us the good info.Wayne,
My "good info" is START ENGINE, HEAD SOUTH. When an orange tree is happy, I'm happy.
Yes, block heaters are all 120 VAC. Some coaches have a separate switch, some you have to plug in/unplug.
A good idea to use it in temperatures below 40 degrees F. If temps are in the 40's, an hour is all that is needed. If temps are below zero F, 3 hours is adequate.
Most are 1200 to 1500 watt heaters. Most are screwed into the engine coolant jacket in the side of the block.
And read YOUR engine owners manual for proper starting techniques. Some manufacturers suggest cycling the key twice in very cold temperatures to fully heat the engine INTAKE MANIFOLD HEATER.
Brett Wolfe
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Thanks Wayne, maybe you can clarify what a glow plug is, does it take the place of what a spark plug does on a gas engine. I was told that the Caterpillar engine I have did not have glow plugs? I did however notice that when I turn the key on there is a light on the dash that says "engine preheat"You are correct, your Caterpillar engine does not have glow plugs. Like most modern diesels, it uses an intake manifold heater not glow plugs on cold starts. That is why using ether (which is explosive) to start a modern diesel is so dangerous. Spraying an explosive on a red hot heating element is just not smart.
Some diesel engines do use glow plugs. Don't think of them as replacements for spark plugs, but as "individual cylinder heaters". Because it requires one for each cylinder and they live in a much harsher environment, they are not as long-lived as intake manifold heaters.
Brett Wolfe
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Hello Brett, I noticed one of your recommendations was a fuel filter, I am assuming you are refering to the gas/water separator and if so what causes these to fail? Is it that they just get clogged? When buying spare parts like you mentioned do you purchase them at a truck stop? I am on my first diesel RV and was use to being able to buy almost everything I needed for my gas coach at any local checker auto parts storeActually, you need a spare for EACH of your fuel filters. Most, but not all diesels have TWO:
A PRIMARY fuel filter/water separator and a SECONDARY fuel filter. The primary filter has a course filter element (10-30 micron) and the secondary has a fine filter element (2-5 micron depending on engine). And if you only have one fuel filter/water separator, it MUST have a fine filter element or you will "throw rocks at your injectors". And if I purchased a coach with only a single filter, I would gladly pay my money to add a second. Remember the order: fuel tank, primary filter/water separator, lift pump, secondary filter, engine.
As to how they fail and why you need to carry spares-- fuel filters are one of the few things that have NO AVERAGE LIFE EXPECTANCY. If all they see is clean fuel, they could filter a million gallons and only need to be replaced every couple of years as the filter media breaks down from age.
But, one tank of fuel contaminated with dirt, rust, water, etc can clog up the filter(s) very quickly.
And the filters you purchase should be those recommended/speced by your chassis maker as they are the ones who make that decision. And be sure to order the filter elements by part numbers, not, for example "I need a fuel filter for my Freightliner chassis". Freighliner sold chassis with both single and (proper) two filter configurations. If the last filter the counterman sold was for a two filter system and he just pulls the same part number off the shelf, you just replaced your 2 or 5 micron filter element with a 30 (if you happen to have the single filter set-up). Very expensive mistake.
Brett Wolfe
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This is the discussion Tom is referring to: http://community.fmca.com/index.php?showtopic=244
Brett Wolfe
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I posted this a few minutes ago in response to the question: What spare parts do you recommend carrying? But it is an important subject that really should be covered as a separate topic of its own.
Engine belts and extra fuel filter(s) are both reasonably high failure rate items that can leave you on the side of the road. They are also both relatively inexpensive and can be installed by service personnel virtually anywhere.
If your chassis is over 3 years old, replace the belts NOW. That does several things:
1. Guarantees that they are the correct size.
2. Puts new belts on the engine, so they are less likely to break.
3. Gives you a spare set of belts.
Spare fuses are another inexpensive high failure rate item.
I also recommend carrying quantities of all your fluids (engine oil, distilled water, coolant, Transynd/ATF, etc). It keeps you from putting in the wrong fluid and doing real damage or having to spend your valuable time hunting for the correct fluid in the middle of nowhere.
Also, FRESH (they have a short shelf life) SCA test strips if you have a diesel and the correct SCA additive/filter compatible with your brand of coolant.
Other than that, it depends on your skill level and also on how far off the beaten path you go. For example when we travel to Mexico, we carry a spare (unmounted) tire, as our size is not available in Mexico and a spare fresh water pump.
Brett Wolfe
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Brett,You make a great suggestion. I was wondering if you have a list of items that ought to be in your "spare kit"? I'm always weighing the benefits of having spare parts vs. the space/weight that they take.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Ron Clanton
Ron,
Engine belts and extra fuel filter(s) are both reasonably high failure rate items that can leave you on the side of the road. They are also both relatively inexpensive and can be installed by service personnel virtually anywhere.
Spare fuses fall into the same category.
I also recommend carrying quantities of all your fluids (engine oil, distilled water, coolant, Transynd/ATF, etc). It keeps you from putting in the wrong fluid and doing real damage or having to spend your valuable time hunting for the correct fluid in the middle of nowhere.
Also, FRESH (they have a short shelf life) SCA test strips if you have a diesel and the correct SCA additive/filter compatible with your brand of coolant.
Other than that, it depends on your skill level and also on how far off the beaten path you go. For example when we travel to Mexico, we carry a spare (unmounted) tire, as our size is not available in Mexico and a spare fresh water pump.
Brett Wolfe
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I believe under the statute of "full faith and credit" drivers licenses are honored by all 50 states.Correct. Driver's licensing does have reciprocity between states.
Vehicle and driving restrictions do NOT. Each state sets their own limits on things like max overall length, gross GAWR (though many follow the federal guidelines), speed limits, etc.
So, yes, you are legal to drive. Your rig may or may not be.
Brett Wolfe
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On Christmas Day we where traveling down I-8 around noon by exit 87 Sentinel AZ (the middle of the town of nowhere) we broke a inner fan belt and I had no spare, we use GS and they got a service provider to contact me but they could not get the part until the next day (it was Christmas day).The next morning they had the service man come from Buckeye AZ some 180 miles away with the belt and we where on our way. On Christmas they seemed determined to tow us to Yuma some 90 miles away, I told them we where in no danger we had the border patrol close by and they where watching out for us so just send the mechanic not the tow truck, it took a lot of talking but it seemed smarter to just replace the belt than risk damaging the coach from towing it 90 miles We only paid the cost of the part and labor to install $125 the travel time had to be almost $300 and GS paid for that.
David Duhe
David,
Thanks for sharing your experience with us.
May have been a (slightly) expensive lesson. ALWAYS a good idea to carry spare belts and fuel filters, as they are unique items.
BUT there are people virtually anywhere who can put them on for you IF you have them with you.
If your chassis is over 3 years old, my recommendation is to replace the belts NOW. That does several things:
1. Guarantees that they are the correct size.
2. Puts new belts on the engine, so they are less likely to break.
3. Gives you a spare set of belts.
Brett Wolfe
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Thanks for all the advice, it seems that I have a lot of places to begin looking, one other stupid question could the open trumpet horns make this noise?It is possible-- do you hear the source of the noise that high up?
Tape them off to determine if they are the cause.
Brett Wolfe
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Hi David,This is a long shot for you, but it does stop wind noise. If the windows in your coach have weep holes in the bottom window frame try this. Put some black electrical tape over the weep holes. The weep holes have been a source of wind noise since my first coach in 1978.
A good temporary or diagnostic idea. But, those weep holes are to allow condensation on the inside of the windows as well as any water that gets past the gaskets from the outside to drain.
If you do identify these weep holes as the source of your noise, depending on exact window design, there are "covers" available for them that will block wind, but still allow them to drain.
Brett Wolfe
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To help isolate/identify the source of the whistle, buy a roll of the 1" wide blue painter's tape. Use it on different areas until you have identified the source of the noise.
Brett Wolfe
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I am planning to install wall tile as a backsplash on my 2005 Discovery. I plan to use premixed mastic and stick the tile directly to the paneling. Has anyone done this and what are the potential problems?Thanks
Peanut
Welcome to the FMCA Forum.
Flexing of the wall as you drive will be the biggest issue. You may need to use some green board or other more rigid backing if the wall is prone to flexing.
And even with a reasonably rigid backing you need to use mastic/adhesive and grout that are slightly flexible.
Someone who installs ceramic tile in RVs can likely recommend an adhesive and grout with this property.
Brett
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The time has come to replace the mattress in our Motor Home. Our Motor Home bed is a cross slide and the space under the closet is 9 1/2 inches where the foot of the bed needs to fit when in. This prevents us from putting in a tall pillow top.Does anyone have any experience with the Euor Foam inner spring mattress or something similar?
Thanks
In addition to the height restriction, measure length and width carefully. Many RV's have shorter than standard length mattresses.
Brett
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I find that I am in need of another 120 VAC outlet to plug in a Hottrod system that I recently purchased. Based on how the existing circuits are laid out I am going to have to run another complete circuit with a new breaker, new wire, and new plug. I spent >25 years in the electronics industry so I know technically what I am doing; but I was curious if anyone else has done this and what their experiences were? I know that I need to mount the plug in the bathroom sink cabinet. I owned a Pace Arrow in the late 1990's that had this done to it, but the 2006 Damon Challenger is a completely different beast. Any input is appreciated. Thanks, GeneSounds like you are comfortable doing 120 VAC wireing.
Yes, the proper way is to add a breaker (assuming you have a blank in your 120 VAC distribution panel). Then run a dedicated wire to the outlet. Since it is to power a heating element immersed in water, consider a GFI outlet. Running that high amp draw addition off existing circuits would not be a good idea.
Brett
Air Disc Brakes PNs
in Chassis
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Welcome to the FMCA Forum.
Thanks very much for posting the results of your research.
Hopefully, it will save another member a lot of research-- or at least give them a good beginning point once they verify what axle they have.
Brett