Briarhopper

OK. Good that you have experience with your rig and tires. Depending on the miles on the tires, if they are wearing evenly would be a good indication of good loading. The GVWR cannot be greater than the combined axle ratings which is why the chassis manual states 17,000. On the placard numbers, two tires cannot carry the placards stated tag axle rating, so would make sense the numbers were reversed (my opinion only) Using the placard numbers, the GVWR is still less than the combined axle ratings. What would probably be ideal is to distribute weight to where each axle is carrying the same percentage of its rating and the total is GVWR or less. Using the tire ratings of single = 3042lbs and dual = 2778lbs the tires can carry 23,280lbs on four singles and 2 duals (4 tires in 2 duals). The calculated percentages based on tire rating are: single = 13.07% (3,042/23,280) and dual = 11.93% (2,778/23280) Now apply the percentages to the GVWR: Front = 4704lbs (13.07%x18000x2) Rear = 8591lbs (11.93%x18000x4) Tag= 4704lbs The only number here that is above the choices is the 4704 on the tag which the reversed placard number is 4,600 I have this worked out in my head. I hope it makes sense on paper. Oh yes, please double check my math :-)

Had another thought or two. Did you just acquire this coach and also just purchsed tires with a date stamp of June 2009 (or tires bought in June '09)? Do the manual and the placard agree on tire size?

If you have a chasssis manual, it may state the design weight ratings of the front and rear axles which might confirm the manual is more accurate than the placard. The tires will also correspond roughly to the axle weights, so by tire capability the drive axle should carry more weight than the tag. You will want to confirm this: Goodyear spec shows the HT LT235/85R16 to have a max load of 3,042lbs@80psi. So, 2 front tires are close to the GAWR Front, 4 tires are close to the manual's GAWR Rear, 2 tires on the tag are over the manual rating but no where near the placard rating. Bear in miind your overall limiting number is the GVWR in which both agree and this is less than the combined axle ratings and a lot less than the combined tire ratings. The GCWR actually sounds a little high for a Ford chassis, but the 7.5 is a beast. If you are planning to tow, you defintiely want brakes on whats being towed as the reason for the low GVWR is probably stopping power of the coach brakes. My thoughts. Hope they help. Be safe.

It has been awhile since I played with starters, so my info may be dated. I also imagine a newer vehicle may have electronics that could be an issue either as part of the problem or sensitive to testing. The starters I am familiar with have either a solenoid mounted on the starter or mounted remotely and in either case the hot from the battery attaches to the solenoid. If your system has a remote solenoid, then the cable at the starter will not be hot until you turn the ignition key. The low resistance batt- to engine seems to indicate a ground. Voltage test from engine to batt- would not show voltage if you have an open condition on the positive side even with no ground. Testing for voltage from batt+ to chassis and/or engine would check the ground. No reading = no ground. Reading close to battery voltage should indicate a good enough ground to at least light a bulb. (Somebody confirm I stated this correctly.) If the ground is good, it would seem to indicate an open condition on the positive side. As campcop mentioned any chance of rodents? By DC panel are you referring to a chassis fuse block that has power right now on the hot side? Which chassis and engine do you have? When you hooked up the chassis battery, have any unusual sparking, clicks or pops??

We had a similar experience as Bill's on the OR beach. Just had installed new filters and a day later our water flow went to Zero. The filters looked liked they had been dipped in a mud bath. We think it was likely a broken water main and subsequent repair contamination. I believe the setup we installed on our coach is similar to what Brett describes. We use two large filters in tandem hooked to the camp supply; one pleated to catch the big chunks and one with finer medium to catch the little chunks. Both allow the chlorine from the camp supply to pass through (assuming there is chlorine in the camp supply) into our tanks and lines for the sole purpose of keeping the system sanitized. We then have a smaller filter under the kitchen sink that does remove chlorine for the coffee and tea water. When we bought our first RV, I talked to a friend of mine who works for the local municipal water supply to gain a better understanding of safe water. If your objective is safe water or a "clean system", all you need to know is if you have any free chlorine in the system. Chlorine is lost as it kills the bad guys. If the bad guys are too much for the chlorine, there is no chlorine left (no free chlorine). So, if you test for free chlorine and you have any, your water should be safe and your system is essentially sanitized. Don't know if it really matters how much PPM you have in a small system, as long as you have some free chlorine to show it has overcome the bad guys. I think any test kit that yields free chlorine would be OK, but not positive on this. I test the supply when we pull into a new camp and then test again before filling our fresh water tank. He also said chlorine will mix with a tank of water without stirring, so you can add some chlorine to your tank and not need to drive. Ditto too on chlorine leaving on its own and not letting water sit. The small bottles of water freshener you can buy at Wally’s or CW are just a sodium hypochlorite solution (household bleach) in small bottles. We do use store bought bottled water when we are in travel mode and had one about 2 weeks ago that smelled just like pond water. Reminded me of home, lazy summer day, fishing pole in hand, bobber just beyond the moss…… Hope this was worth the read time. Added Note: Looked at a gallon jug of fresh water treatment that had some type of alcohol as the active ingredient instead of a form of chlorine. I had mentioned the small bottles of sodium hypochlorite above, so though I would add this note. Have not used it and probably won't, but it may be a bleach alternative.

I do not have the same screen as the instructions. No "watch" button. There is a "follow" button. If I click the "Follow" button, it changes to "Following", but I have as yet to receive any notificaiton of any followed topics. Running IE 8. Thanks Update: I had the "follow" set notify immediately, but did not have my notification set properly..... I think.

DeWat, Our slides have been out on and off for months. On the common sense side, anything exposed to the elements will age more than if not exposed. So, maybe a little depends on the benefit of slides-out outweighing the slight aging of seals, canopy fabric, etc. If your mode of operation is going to be parked for weeks at a time for the next several years, you would want to cover the tires to slow the aging process. Beyond that just consider where the sun, rain, etc. is going to attack. Agree with extending jacks for stability and taking weight off the tires for an extended parking. Never a bad idea to call the coach builder and ask all the questions you have, especially when you just helped them keep the lights on.

It still seems like a ground problem or disconnect that is open and considering the young age of the coach, I would not think a ground would have loosened. Do you have manuals for coach and chassis to double check there are no additional battery disconnects of either manual or automatic?

You mentioned fully charged batteries. Have you verifed with a digital multimeter that the chassis battery is indeed fully charged? Should read 12.6 volts more or less depending on temperature.

WIthout knowing more about you particular system, the chassis ground is the first thing that comes to mind, or a disconnect. More info would be helpful. Maybe describe how the coach and chassis batteries are set up. Just to confirm, you have no chassis lights, no starter cranking, etc.???

Found the dual matching answer in Michelins truck tire warranty: "Tires mounted in duals must be matched so that the maximum difference between the diameters of the tires does not exceed 1⁄4 inch.", which also agrees roughly with Goodyears RV guide which allows a circumference difference of 1.5" between duals. If they are willing to cover a 1/4" under warranty, then I imagine my 5 or 6 32nds is not an issue. I also found reference to the idea that outer duals usually wear faster than inner, which may explain why they installed the worn tires to the inside. Planning to do a more thorough inspection and if I can't find any problems, see if I can find a tire professional to inspect, and go from there.

Herman: Not too harsh. I've always enjoyed a good discussion and if you feel the need to raise the tone just a little to make a point, works for me. For the sake of good discussion: I wouldn't run smaller tires on one side, but assume tires on both duals are identical circumference: On the average road in North America what percentage of time do both duals turn at the exact same RPM? If you find one tire on a dual worn 1/32 more than the other, would you replace both to get back to identical tires? What about 2/32?, 3/32?, etc. There has to be a tolerance range. If the manufacturer’s service life limit on a tire is 10 years, why remove it from service at a lesser age if it is in good physical condition?? I do appreciate the thoughts.

Thanks for the input. Icefixr66, I should have mentioned the Bridgestones are (4909) and have been on the coach maybe a year +/-. Bridgestone and Michelin both use 10 years as the age when a tire should be retired regardless of condition. So, age alone is not a disqualifier. I do realize though that I don't really know these tires since I have a only had them for about 4 months and 3,300 miles. If I'd raised 'em from pups, I'd feel better. Now that I think of it, them being unknown to me is proabaly more of a disqualifier than the age. Bill, Makes sense. Seems though that there's always going to be some difference except when a set of tires is brand new, especially if you had one wear for whatever reason. Manuals talk about rotating if needed because of uneven wear, which means its likely you end up with two tires that won't be identical. I suppose the question is, how much is allowable wheel to wheel and dual to dual??? A couple other bits of info I'll throw in to alleviate the family's (Forum folk) concern for our overall safety. We generally avoid higher speeds, wet pavement, heavy traffic and/or darkness while driving for the sole purpose of increasing the margin of safety. Doesn't mean I won't drive in traffic or on a wet road, but if I have to, I ease up more on the throttle. I'm thinking the fact I discovered the two older tires will reduce my top speed by 5-10 MPH, which may also dictate operating when there is less traffic. Thanks again both for your thoughts.

Have a FCCC XC-R chassis that we acquired a few months ago. Discovered during a routine ant hunt a few days ago that the inside tires on the rear axle are Michelin XRV 255/80R22.5 (M hereafter), whereas the outside and steer tires are Bridgestone R250 265/75R22.5 (B hereafter). Studying the specs for both tires they match up fairly close: the load/inflation tables are identical; max inflation 110, speed rating 75mph, rim size 7.5, load range G all the same. The only significant difference I see spec wise is the loaded radius; M is 17.9” and B is 18”. Using the loaded radius, original tread depth and existing tread depths, I calculate the M’s are 3.5 - 4.5 32nds smaller than the B’s on the drive axle. The Coach spec was 255/80's. I’d be more concerned except we have driven the coach 3,300 miles before I discovered the M’s and the only issue I had picked up during my rest stop walk-a-rounds is slightly elevated temperature of the left outside drive B. When I noticed it, I checked all tires with a spot radiometer (IR thermometer) and the three other (2 M’s and right B ) were close in temp and a few degrees cooler than the left B. The left B read 104lbs and the other three read 105lbs on the gauge. The left B also shows very slight more wear than the right B; less than 1/32 average using a tread depth gauge. The right drive B and steer B’s in all grooves show 1/32 or less wear from spec. I had previously weighed the axles, but not the wheel positions. Axle weights are fine and inflation of 105lbs is right on for the rear axle load and a little high for the front. Though the M’s are older (5204), the coach has been warehouse kept when not on the road for the last 5-6 years and they appear in good condition with no sidewall cracks, etc. I am aware the ideal scenario of only running identical tires on the same axle, but realize that ideal and reality seldom coincide. So, I called a truck tire dealer back home (the kind of place that will tell you they are not the cheapest). They did not seem concerned with the mix and also said their rule of thumb on size difference was 4/32s which we are at (sort of). I figure I should be diligent on the daily pressure check and hourly rest stop temp checks. Maybe run a few 32nds off the M's or replace them sooner than later, or buy 6 tires equal to the OEM spec, or something I haven't thought of yet. Appreciate any worthy input or comments.

Slightly off topic, but maybe not and I assume if this is an issue, it would be the same regardless of chassis; The Freightliner operators manual states, "Federal regulations prohibit filling a fuel tank to more than 95 percent of its liquid capacity., and in the next paragraph "Never fill fuel tanks to more than 95 percent of their liquid capacity. This could make them more likely to rupture from impact...." I realize the statement is aimed at operators who can see the fuel rise inside the tank and I assume in the case of a motor home chassis with a tank inside the frame that the design of the system would prevent overfilling. So, my dumb questions: Would tilting the coach allow you to inadvertently overfill? If so, could it not only be a safety concern, but also cause problems with the fuel system venting etc.??

OK. I believe I have the answer(s). Should have offered this with my first reply.The best answer is find and consult with a propane professional who is qualified to repair/replace propane pieces and parts. The reason for this is the potential pressures involved from a propane tank of any size. Now, the rest is as I understand it, which is another reson to consult with the pro. You need to know two things: What pressure does your applicance (grill, stove, etc) need to operate properly? and what pressure is the supply you intend to use? In our case, the coach's fixed-tank regulator is the standard that delivers 11" WC to the coach appliances including the original grill quick coupler. I called the mfg of the chosen grill and found that the burner needs 11" WC to operate, so I have the right pressure without using the regulator that came on the grill. In the case of this grill, the regulator is separate from the burner valve, so all I need to do is remove the regulator on the grill and connect the coach low pressure to the grill burner valve. If the grill you have has a regulator/burner control assembly, you will need to replace it with a burner control only that has the same connection to the burner. Apparently most coach systems are going to reduce the pressure to 11" WC, but not all grills are going to operate on that pressure. So, if you are starting from scratch, confirm your coach low pressure and then find a grill to match that the regulator can be removed or regulator/control valve can be replaced with control valve only. Or buy a grill already set up for your connection. Having said all that, I reiterate that the best answer is find a good professional propane supplier/installer that can guide you safely to your grilling adventures. I can almost hear the steaks.

Per Atwood Service guy, 5-7 years is right on and is an average/normal use. More use of the coach could mean less life and less use could mean more life. He even stated he had some still in service from the late 1990's and if all the bells and whistles (lights and beeps) are functionong normally, the unit should still be good.

Have not made the grill decision yet, but thought I would share what I have found. Camco's 5500 grill comes set up to use the RV low pressure and has adapter hose w regulator to run it using 1lb and a different adapter for 20lb cylinder. Camco's 5100 grill comes set up for 1lb tanks but you can change the regulator out for a valve, part # 57274, that will allow it to run off the RV low pressure. Talked to Weber customer service and they said you could run their Q series on the 1lb or 20lb tanks, but they do not offer a kit to use RV low pressure. One option if the grill location is close to the tank is a Mr. Heater Stay A While or Stay Flow which both have a high pressure (throw away tank) fitting that you can run a hose from to the grill. The Stay A While also has a port to hook up a portable tank when the coach is parked longer than the fixed tank supply will last. I have considered running high pressure back to the Grill but my overly cautious nature won't let me do it. Tank pressure fluctuates with the temperature; per the chart I found online 100F = 172psi and 130F = 257psi (think August on blacktop with no breeze), so i figure the least amount of high pressure line the better.

Had a bad battery(s) in the coach bank when we first acquired the rig and did not realize. When the charge system went into high gear it caused the batteries to gas more than normal and it set the LP detector off. I have also had it go off when I idle the diesel for a while in hot weather and the coach not moving.

Have to agree with the water and more water contingent. However, to be fair to the soap/chemical faction , Tiffin recommends using Pine Power and several gallons of water to clean your sensors as you drive. If you notice though, all of the solutions (double meaning intended) use a liberal dose of water. Also consider that water and water alone is the single most destructive force in nature. So, I figure 10-15 gallons sloshing around will erode just about anything.

John, First, my disclaimer. I'm not an expert, but only know what I have learned the last few years working on my hobbies (also known as motorhomes). Have been considering adding an Echo Charge to our coach which made me interested in this topic. Reading thru the conversation it occurs to me your echo charge may have been working against an unknown current draw on the chassis battery. If there was voltage coming thru the echo charge and not charging would seem to indicate a bad connection or draw on the chassis batteries. Just thinking you may want to keep tabs on things. Been a while since I played with starters, but it seems a bad solenoid could produce a drain on the batteries, which if so, you've already fixed. My thinking may be completely off, but figured it might prevent a down the road disappointment if there was an unknown current draw that still exists . Stuart

Working on the same situation only the Allegro already had the low pressure quick connect and an existing grill. Grill looked like it needed to go dumpster diving, so I helped it. Then discovered the already regulated low pressure will not "power" the bottle type grills. Solution, I have been told, is to change out the grill regulator for a low pressure one made for that application. Apparently this can be done provided the grill has a threaded connection between the regulator and burner. Planning to acquire a new grill and set it up in the next few days. I'll post what I discover in the process.

Researched the possibilities last fall and though I tend to travel lazily down the road, did not want any restrictions on speed or distance. Settled on a 2011 Jeep Patriot with a manual transmission which, per Jeep, may be "recreationally towed (flat towed) at any legal highway speed, for any distance, if the manual transmission is in NEUTRAL and the ignition key is in the ACC position." 22-28 mpg advertised ( I have not verified) Edmunds.com lowest cost of ownership in 2011 Top safety pick by IIHS in 2012 Ours is a front wheel drive, but I believe the towing info is the same for 4-wheel models. If you are looking at Jeeps, you can go to Jeep.com, click the owners tab at the top and download the owners manual for any model in recent years. On head room, I am 6' +/- and have roughly 4" of space noggin to headliner. Since all folk are not proportional, I just walked out and measured: from the seat up past the headrest to the headliner is 40". One more bit: The online guides are good place to start, but I would advocate verifying the towability of any vehicle with the manufacturer. A well known online reference does not show the 2011 Patriot can be towed flat. Hope this was worth the time to read it.

Had a problem smell while driving in a previous MH that was worse if you had the drivers window down and better if you ran the bath vent. Finally discovered a bad gasket on the bath vent dome which apparently allowed tank odor to be pulled into the coach from a roof vent that was next to the bath vent dome. New gasket = odor gone. In 2 other instances (1 TT, 1 MH) have had mechanical plumbing vents go bad which allows gray tank odor into the kitchen area. You would be surprised (or maybe not) how bad the gray tank can smell. The mechanical vent allows the kitchen sink to drain without having a vent pipe ran to the roof and in my cases were visible behind/under/near kitchen sink. If the smell seems worse in this area, find the mechanical vent and temporarily seal the external holes. Air out the "house" and if smell stays gone, replace the vent. Do not leave a bad vent taped or otherwise sealed. Wholeheartedly agree with the "no bleach posts" as it wipes out the friendly waste digesting organisims that naturally occur in, well nature.