Briarhopper

Double check this info. Looked at Roadtreks in that year range with idea of towing a trailer. Their published tow capabilities include only the driver. The tow rating is "reduced by optional equipment, fuel, water, propane, cargo and/or passengers". The rating for the 2005-2006 starts at 5,000 and you'll drop about 1,500+ lbs for stuff so you end up with a real world tow capability in the 3,000 to 3,500 lb range. Do however, verify as every coach has different options and everyone carryies different stuff. If you have less options and carry less stuff, you can tow more (CR-V or maybe bigger). More options and more stuff means you can tow less (maybe pick the Fit). Along with the base plate and tow bars, you will likely want brake system for the Honda that operates the Honda brakes while being towed. This is required by many state vehicle laws. BH

Slightly sideways but still on partial topic of good customer service and to show how the modern technologies can get things sideways. I called Pfister to order a little brass button to go on our bath faucet. Did not have a model, so emailed them a picture while on the phone. The gal looked at the pic, figured out the part, took my info and life was good; our faucet was going to be whole again. Good service. Card got billed within a few days, but a month later still no little brass button. Bad service. I called Pfister and spoke to gal #2, who could not find any record of my order in their massive computer system (owned by Black and Decker by the way). When I explained that I was looking at my card statement that showed B&D had charged me $12.09, I could hear perplexity ocurring on the other end of the line. Gal #2 could not use her computer, had to go talk to people or call people in other parts of the B&D universe. Turns out the gal who took my order used another customer # and my card was charged for a part that went to someone in Canada. Extremely bad service. Gal #2 figured it out, sent me the little brass button, credited my card $12.09 for good measure. Excellant service. Faith in B&D restored. Faucet made whole. Life is good. Dewat, I'm 110% with you on good customer service, but computers (email, order systems, card charging, etc) don't know you and I or care if we get our stuff.

Original equipment would have been Michelins. The placard size is 255/80's so I assume the original tires were Michelin XRV 255/80R22.5

Brett, Vehicle Label: GAWR Front = 10410 GAWR Rear = 19000 255/80R22.5 PSI front and rear is 100 The original tires were likely Michelin XRV, but not positive.

rslavicek, Was researching a genset gemlin of my own and had 2 more thoughts on your sudden shutdown. I know. Having two thoughts at one time could be hazardous. If you were on a steep grade going up or down, it may have dropped the fuel in the tank below the pickup or could have caused the gensets low oil switch to kill the engine.

Welcome If you go to your tire manufacturers web site and search for their RV tire brochure, you should find specifics on where the DOT info is found on your tires. Both Michelin and Bridstone even show pictures. Generally the DOT numbers are near the wheel rim and may only be on one side of the tire. The last four digits give you the week and year a tire was made. 5211 would mean 52nd week of 2011 and 0112 would mean 1st week of 2012.

The peak torque RPM should be on the engine dataplate (if same as ours, the dataplate is on the side of the engine opposite the exhaust side). I could not get to the one on our 330, so called Cummins to confirm and the peak was 1400+ (don't remember exactly). Mine is an ISC and 2000 model year chassis. I have heard that later model years run higher RPMS, but thought it was later than 2004. If you call Cummins with your ESN they can tell you what the tech who bolted the exhaust manifold on had for lunch the day he did it.

Hard to say. The first thing that comes to mind is the low fuel shutoff. The generators I have had and I think most will shut off before the fuel tank gets too low. If your tank was low (1/4 tank +/-) then that may have been the issue. Vapor lock???? may be since you were in 100F, but the line from the tank to the gen would not get as hot as the line to the chassis engine, so may be not, unless there is a hot spot. Near the gen a few seconds of run time would not a vapor lock create (apologize for the Yoda speak). Dies with a pop is interesting. Sounds like a timing or fuel contamination issue. However, since it starts and runs, timing seems not likely. I'd chalk it up to a momentary glitch, keep an eye on things and keep on rolling (or camping as the case may be)

My placard PSI is less than the PSI required for the GAWR. Interesting, don't you think. I suspect it has to do with handling and stability, but I do not know this for sure.

On the original question, some say never to run less pressure than the vehicle placard which makes sense in a lot of applications. Now I'm curious if the placard pressure is the same or different for each axle. If it happens to be around 110psi for the front and lower for drive and tag, that might be your answer. Now for the uncanny: Looking at the numbers, the steer and tag are both 1,460lbs below their GAWRs and the drive is 5,840 (1,460 x 4) below the GAWR. Perhaps you should play 1460 in the local pick 4.

Phil503, The total description makes me curious how the axle weights compare to the GAWRs on the coach placard and if you know what the curb weight (unloaded vechicle weight) of the coach should be?? Are the tires the size specified on the vehicle placard?

Response from NWS in quotation marks: "FYI, I'm not aware of any incidents involving motor homes so I can't cite any examples.. The metal framing should provide protection, but it would not be as good as a complete metal shell. You would want to stay as far away from the metal framing and from any metal conductors as possible. As for leveling jacks versus the tires, it doesn't really matter." I take his repsonse as being related to people protection and not neccessarily property, electronics, etc.

I know some of the Fords with keyless ingnition have specific instructions on the button pressing, but I think it has more to do with shifting an automatic into nuetral as opposed to unlocking steering wheel. Nissan, Ford and Jeep are three that I am aware of who post all the manuals and revisions online. Link to Nissan manuals below. One would think that if the manual addresses flat towing, but does not mention the ignition, then no special ignition procedure is needed. http://www.nissanusa.com/owning/manuals-and-guides.html

Something else that may come into consideration in the decision making process is weight. Three weight questions to ask: Will the weight of my towed vehicle be more or less than the carry/tow capability of the dolly? Will the combined weight of the towed vehicle and dolly be more or less than the hitch capability of the tow vehicle? Will the combined weight of tow vehicle, towed vehicle and dolly be more or less than the GCWR of the tow vehicle? Of course the added weight of the tow dolly could come in handy. "I'm sorry honey, (insert name of relative here) can't go. We'd be overwieght." Something else that may concern some folks is a dolly could have a lower speed rating than towing four down. In our case, could not find a dolly that could carry our initial towed vehicle (Ford F-150) and though the Jeep is lighter, it can't be towed on a dolly. The weight of the dolly would also put us within a few hundred pounds of GCWR and I'd rather carry other stuff. On the time to hook/unhook: I don't move that fast, so many a dolly-person could probably beat us out the gate of the campground, but I'm satisfied any dolly would take me longer to hook up than the tow bars. Dolly may be best way to go in some cases. Just would not work for us.

I seemed to be inclined to ask dumb questions today. In the case of a P32 are the air bags more of an assist than a gotta have?? In other words safer to move than a coach that is sitting on nothing but air?? Considering the 1500 mile trip in question.

Someone else may have first hand knowledge, so help my be here shortly. Just in case can you further describe or maybe even include a photo or two.

OK. Semi dumb queston(s) from my struggling understanding: Since N = 78% and O = 21%, the PSI problems come from the 1% leftover, but thats the air we breathe. So, is compressing the 1% and turning some of it into liquid what creates the more expansive part of compressed air. Seems like the most it could do is get back to 1%. To further confuse the issue in my mind, compressed dry air is still 1% other stuff, so??????? I realize the ratio is across the atmosphere of the planet, so maybe its just an issue where the leftover is more than 1%. How much PSI fluctuation difference is there between nitrogen and air in a tire from 50F to 90F? We inflate tires to a cold PSI to perform properly at operating temperatues taking into account the increase in pressure. If nitrogen reduces the increase in PSI, should nitrogen filled tires be cold inflated to a higher PSI? I think I'm missing something, Interesting topic though.

Interesting curious question. So much so, I inquired of the NWS to get their thoughts on motor homes in lightning storms. When I get a repsonse, I'll toss it in here. In the mean time, the following thoughts drawn from some experiences and some conjecture. Boondocking with jacks down may make the rig more visible to a bolt of lightning(visbile meaning the lightning detects a path to ground). If it makes the rig more visible, like a tree on the mesa, then yes, a strike would be more likely. Metal body cars are considered safe shelters from lightning. Fiberglass shell cars are not considered safe shelters from lightning. Not sure if a rig with metal framing would act like a metal car body. However, a rig with no metal would be similar to a fiberglass shell car and likely not offer any personal protection. Interesting fact: In Florida, lightning kills more people than all other storm-related weather events.

My thinking: Warranties in general are written more to protect the provider of a product or service than the receiver of same. They limit what the provider will have to do in case of a bad product or service. An extended warranty is no different other than the product is the plan, so the contract for a ESP is written to protect the provider from paying claims. If the ESP does a good job of writing the warranty, they pay no claims; bad job, they go bankrupt. Does not mean some people won't get lucky and have a big expense covered, but most will not. Otherwise, there would be no extended warranties offered. I provide my own extended warranty every time one is offered by keeping the cash My thinking.

If this is posted somewhere on the forums, my apple ol' geese for the duplication. If anyone is interested in checking on the tires they have you can search tire recalls at: http://www.safercar.gov/ Though the domain is tagged safecar, you can also search for recalls by year make and model of motorhomes.

roland9901 referencing post # 10 above and the mention of multiple ground wires all connected at the battery post: Not sure at all what the wires do, but I think the instruction from Ford for an automatic is to disconnect the cable from the battery, so leaving the cable attached at the battery may be an issue if there are indeed multiple wires. May not be, but thought I would raise a flag, just in case.

Crossing a dip that will just barely drag you can go thru the it at a slight angle or turn as you cross the low spot, the wheels on the high side will keep the rear from dragging. Just a trick for the slight drags. Won't work and could damage stuff at too much of an angle.

It sounds like the valve may be missing or broken. There should not be an open pipe. If the pipe has coupling on top with female thread, that is likely where the valve goes. It's considered a mechanical vent and available at Lowe's. You can cover the pipe with a baggie taped or rubber banded tight to stop the odor until you get a new.

Just a cautionary note on dolly towing in general. It is not always a case of lifting the drive axle and letting the free wheels roll. Whether 4x4, 4x2, front or rear wheel drive, you see different information from different makes and also different year to year for the same model. Even some vehicles that can be towed flat, with all four wheels down and rolling, cannot be dollied. Always a good idea to verify with the manufaturer on the specific vehicle whether it can be towed in any manner; even wrecker towing for that matter.

Large part depends on what you like and want like Bill said. A diesel will likely outperform a gas coach of the same size and be cheaper to operate but generally cost more to purchase, which can be offset by going used as Brett mentioned. Class A or C is just the basic configuration. The technical difference is whether or not it has a bed over the cab, but due to the chassis C’s have driver and passenger doors. If you're thinking big, a Super C like one on a Freightliner Columbia chassis has a more accessible engine which may help on service cost as many places charge more for working on Class A motor homes due to the engine access on many is crawl under it or go thru the cab or bed. Not a huge point, but a point. Between Fleetwood and Winnebago, I have looked at both but owned neither. Have spoke to Winnebago on the phone when considering buying one and they were helpful. Whatever brand you may be looking at, call the maker and ask some questions. Look at older coaches of prospective brands and see how they hold up. Best approach I think would be to treat it just like buying a house. Look for the house first and then just make sure the truck (chassis) it’s sitting on is plenty big enough to put the house where you want it safely and tow whatever garage stuff you need or want. On that note, big coach does not always mean big tow capability. If you plan to tow something make sure the tow capability is adequate. You can make a lot of improvements to your new home, but not likely you can change the capabilities of the chassis very much. Happy hunting.