MarYJac04

The small leak I saw evidence of was caused by a too high oil level. It is right up to the plug. I'm guessing when I came down through the Nevada desert, the heat just expanded it enough to seep some.

That is the information I needed. Thank you for the responses. There was a small amount of oil which leaked from under the hub, nothing in the back. Will likely be a couple of days before I can look at it. Will let you know what I find.

I am trying to check the gear oil level on my wet front wheel bearings, but do not know how to remove the Wheel Master center hub on Alcoa Aluminum wheels. I do not want to start by attempting to pry it off just in case that is the wrong procedure. Can anyone help. It is a 2002 Workhorse w22 chassis.

I would recommend US163 through Monument Valley. Have been on this route several times, and were at Page earlier this year. If you have time I would recommend you stop at Valley of the Gods, dirt road entrance at 37°14'6.29"N 109°48'51.70"W and Goose Necks State Park just a few miles south. Dispersed camping in the valley and rustic camping at the state park (which now charges a fee). Valley of the Gods could also be a day trip from Goose Necks. It will be hot, but while at Page, I would also recommend a stop at Lees Ferry, There is a Forest Service camp above the river, and a short walk to the former ranch (see signs on the road) which is really worth while. Fruit orchard there which may be ready to pick about now. All Grand Canyon river rafting trips leave from here.

Any chance you could describe how the DOT system works?

Thank you for the responses. Our planned route is US 89 through Utah, not 89A in AZ. We just do not like going through Las Vegas and do not care to travel the Interstates unless there is good reason. Once we get to rt 20 we will decide whether to continue north or take 20 to I15.

I am planning a trip from AZ to Yellowstone and have the option of going through Las Vegas to I 15 or Rt 89 north from Flagstaff to Page, AZ and Kanab,UT then connecting with RT 20 to I 15. I am familiar with RT 89 almost to page but beyond that I would like to know road conditions, elevation changes, etc. There is about a 60 mile difference in routes, 89 being the shorter. Would like suggestions from anyone familiar with either route.

Pettit Easypoxy is a very good marine paint which will lay flat and has a high gloss finish which will look like it was sprayed on. I used it on a mast and boom and it was still like new after 13 years in the tropics. Available at most marine stores.

We are looking at a 2014 trip to Alaska also. We have a Monaco Monarch 33 SFS, have only been RVing 2 years but lived on a sailboat in Mexico for several years. Will be towing a CRV. We lived in the interior for almost two years in 1960-1962, Nenana, Clear, Anderson. These are between Fairbanks and Denali on what is now the Parks Highway. When we were there, the only road was a dirt from Fairbanks to the far side of the Tanana River at Nenana so we would really like to see the changes. We drove the Alaska Hwy. in 1960 and 62, when it was all dirt from Dawson Creek. We are base in Prescott, AZ. Our current itinerary (still in flux) is Sweet Grass, MT to Whitehorse, YT where we would leave the Alaska Hwy. and take the Klondike route, entering into Alaska at Chicken, then on to Fairbanks. From there to Denali, Anchorage, Kenai Peninsula, Haines, Skagway, then return. We are in no hurry and a currently looking at somewhere around ten weeks. We will keep an eye on this thread. Thank you for starting it. Jack and Margaret

Mexico has a much better signal light solution to this problem. The green light flashes on and off three times prior to the caution light. In some areas the same is true going from red to green. This gives the driver much more time to stop.

On the iRV2 site under Monaco owners forum there is link for the 2014 Quartzsite Monaco location complete with map and GPS coordinates. Try this link: http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/quartzsite-rv-show-2014-a-176702.html.

I am looking at a 2006 Journey 36 and a 2007 Cayman 36. I am interested in comments relating to both. I have followed the Monaco trailing arm problem, so I am aware of that; however I am interested in other information relating to problems, ride, handling, etc.

Thanks for the additional information. I have an additional question. I test drove the the Camelot yesterday and was not able to determine if or how much the air suspension hieght raised after starting the engine. After returning I watched for lowering the height off the ground when the engine was shut down or air dump switch was used. Should I be able to see this? How much difference in height should I expect?

Thank you for the response, that is just about what I expected. I have heard concern about purchasing an "orphaned" coach and was wondering if that is a valid concern.

I have been looking at a short Journey and ran across I nice 40 foot Monaco we really like. It is both larger and has a bigger engine than we have ever thought we would consider. The engine is a 400hp ISL9 and vehicle GVWR is 35000 lbs. Can anyone give me some idea of annual engine maintenance costs and what mileage I might expect; will be towing a CRV. I see oil changes are every 12 months and I am wondering if that is necessary when using synthetic oil, or can an oil analysis be used to determine change time?

Looking for recommendations for an El Paso area RV Tech and a Cummins diesel mechanic to inspect a used motorhome I am looking at.

Has anyone heard of issues with or have comments on the 2005 Country Coach Inspire 330 Siena 36'. I would like to know the overall length and have not been able to find it.

I am comparing an Allegro 34TGA and a Winnebago Sightseer 33C. The overall length of the 33C is 34'6" and 34TGA is 34'10" while the wheelbase is 220" for the 33C and 242" for the 34TGA, giving a 53% Wheel-base to Length ratio for the 33C and 58% for the 34TGA. I have read that only ratios of 54% or greater are considered safe for highway travel, so on paper the advantage is for the 34TGA. My question relates to manuverability. Since the overall lengths are nearly the same while the wheel-base difference is 22", I am wondering about the effect on manuverability in close quarters. In addition to my question I would like to hear any comments relating to either coaches.

Thank you for the responses. I guess I just feel a little ignorant of what to expect. When cruising in remote areas for months at a time, we had to be prepared with many spare parts for all systems on the boat, and be able to use them. I am unsure of those types of requirement for RVing. Thanks, again.

I know this is a question without real answers, but I still would like to ask it. I would like opinions as to a maximum age to realistically continue to travel in an RV. A little background: We are quite new to RVing with a small 25-foot unit and are considering moving up to a 32- to 34-foot Class A, mostly for comfort. I will be 76 this year and we have lived on a cruising sailboat for several years, so I am quite mechnically inclined and self-sufficient. We have known both RVers and boaters who are in their upper 80s, but have known others who had to give it up at a much younger age.

We are planning a trip to Alaska in 2013 and would like to hear comments and/or recommendations on whether to tow a toad. We estimate a trip of two and a half to three months from the US/Canada border. We lived in the interior just a bit southwest of Fairbanks in 1960 - 1962 so we are quite sure there are side trips we would enjoy taking. At that time there were few roads but we did fly to several places.

2000 Rehall V25. I keep a spread sheet for fuel. I have found a 6.04% odometer error compared to the GPS. On a trip this year from Prescott,AZ to Moab,UT, Denver,CO, El Paso,TX, to Prescott I had 2049 odometer miles and 2172.8 GPS miles. Travel at 58 - 6- 60 MPH by GPS, RPM range 2480 2500 with no tow. Odometer mileage was 9.85, GPS mileage was 10.45. Interestingly some of the best mileage was climbing the Rockies on I70, something I have experienced several times with other vehicles over the last 10 years.

The accessory fuse was pulled per the manual. After seeing the miles added on the first leg I double checked for key position on the return trip. The ran thru the gears and engine run for 3 minutes per the manual, engine turned off, odometer reading was not displayed (accessory position). Miles still recorded on the return trip.

I just returned from my first time towing, a 2006 Honda CRV AWD, and was surprised to see the odometer register the towed miles. Is this normal? Is there any way to disable that from happening? I followed the owners manual for towing but could not find anything about the odometer reading.

Both turn signals and emergency flashers work until the brake padal is pushed. Fuse blows immediately.