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wildebill308

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Posts posted by wildebill308


  1. I was in Rushmore at the beginning of bike week, by accident we were coming east from Yellowstone and not paying attention to the date. Wasn't bad but could be a problem finding a place to stay if you didn't have reservations.

    When you swing through Kentucky if you like horses you should plan on stopping at the Horse park. it is north of Lexington. Also look into The Bourbon Trail:

    http://kyhorsepark.com/

    is another grate side trip to 10 of the to distillery's in Kentucky.

    http://kybourbontrail.com/

    Just driving around the area is amazing.

    Bill


  2. Just get on the Mass pike and go west. This will take you as far as you can go west without hitting water. Seriously this takes you through the finger lakes past Niagara Falls (if you haven't been it is a must see) to western Ohio and on into Madison WI.

    If you continue on it takes you to Rapid City gateway to Mount Rushmore. About another day west is The Custer Battlefield. Then you are only a day from Yellowstone.

    I was that way last summer.

    Bill


  3. Hi All,

    First post and first big trip in newly acquired Newmar.

    We are looking for tips on where to stay. We previously used KOAs and National Park campgrounds when we were using our tow behind trailer. We are members of KOA and Good Sams as well as FMCA.

    Now that we have a large diesel pusher I was wondering if I could get advise, or experienced input on where to stay at Mt. Rushmore, Yellowstone, and Yosemite. Also doing google maps and mapquest doesn't give much insight into elevations, road widths, and bridge heights.

    I will be towing a Honda civic and get a little nervous driving through large cities during rush hour.

    Any thoughts, comments, and advice will be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks,

    Wayne

    Wayne, Welcome to the forum.

    What route are you planning and which parks do you plan on going to first? I was in all three parks this last summer. Also what route from Alabama do you plan on using? You are going to have a blast.

    Bill


  4. 50A service should be 220/240V service. If wired correctly, it shouldn't damage the coach.

    Wiring diagrams and information for 30A and 50A are available at RV Electric

    If you are planning to do any wiring for an RV outlet, you should study the information on this site. Obviously this is true even if you are planning to hire an electrician to do the job. This isn't difficult but if your electrician makes one incorrect assumption real damage can occur. You would also be making a mistake if you simply ask an electrician to install a 50A outlet without mentioning that it is for an RV. I would print off specific information from the site for the electrician before they show up for the job. Then discuss the installation with them. Make sure they understand that the installation is for an RV. This is especially true for 30A RV's as 30A for an RV is never 220/240V. Once completed, test the outlet with a voltmeter or other test equipment before plugging anything into the outlet.

    Good advise Tom.

    Carl, I doubt he would be having a 50 amp receptacle installed if he had 30 amp service. Even if he had a 30 amp coach if he was plugging into a 50 amp plug he would have to use an adapter and shouldn't have a problem.

    Bill


  5. We are ordering a new coach. It is just my wife & I. We plan on using the coach to travel about 6 weeks at a time.

    We were at both Hershey & Tampa RV shows & most people we spoke with said they don't use it except for storage. If you ARE NOT FULL TIME do you find you use the dishwasher? Would you order it or would you rather have the storage?

    BTW: we are ordering a Newmar 43' Dutch Star

    Welcome to the forum. I think from the replies so far you can see a trend. I think that this is something that sounds great but most end up using it as a storage. We kind of thought the same way about the washer. Well after one trip it became a "must have".

    Bill


  6. Well I had to go check my records but my boost gage reads in psi. I saw no reduction in power that I could measure in my trip this last summer. High boost runs around 35psi I have a tattletale so I have a record of maximum readings. The highest I have observed was 40psi. I don't know if this was momentary or? but that was the highest on the tattletale.

    I am wondering how people determine they have a reduction in power?

    Bill


  7. Hi All;

    I have a 2009 Cheetah Safari with a C-9 turbo charged engine- 425 HP. I bought it new in 2009 and 2 years later at 9,300 miles I had to replace the turbo-charger.

    Today at 23,000 miles the coach is in the shop again and the diagnostic codes point to another bad turbo charger. This is all related to the automatic regeneration cycle, somehow. Still trying to determine how Caterpillar controls the need for regeneration............some manufacturers measure the pressure differential at the DPF (diesel particulate filter) to determine the sooth loading in the filter, and then trigger a regeneration cycle to burn the sooth and clean the filter. Others use miles, others use gallons burned or hours of operation. Don't know how Caterpillar does....still trying to research it!

    What I believe is causing the issue is that with RV's that stay in storage for some time, the turbo somehow locks up because there is no way to lubricate the moving rotor and impeller vanes. Then when you take it out on the road the system calls for an active regeneration cycle and the locked up turbo cannot respond and the result is an engine fault code for a failure to regen; then you get the power derating and eventual stop engine fault....................which leaves you stranded!!!!

    If anybody knows of an aftermarket cure for this turbo issue....I would really love to hear about it!

    Regards,

    Frustrated Cat owner

    Welcome to the forum lvnrdrm.

    I have been doing some reading on the variable vane turbo. Rich has a lot of good info in his response. I also found that some are capping off their exhaust if parked for more than a couple of days. This prevents moisture from getting up the relatively short exhaust on a motorhome and causing corrosion on the turbo plates that cause the sticking problem. I think this is another reason to drive your coach frequently (weather permitting) so lets go someplace.

    I think covering the exhaust should reduce the problem I was trying to think of something handy and cheap. Perhaps a shower cap with the elastic or one of those plastic wrap covers that has the elastic. It wouldn't have to be to heavy duty and if you forget, it will just blow off.

    Bill


  8. I have a Country Coach FE 420 with a C9 425 hp. I have 18,000 miles on it . A 16,000 mile I had a check engine light come on. Turns out Cat said I had a blown turbo. They said they had some hot inlet air alert showing on the read out.

    Cat replaced the turbo but after checking to see if everything was working fine after a few miles Cat is still getting alerts showing hot inlet air but now they are saying it's CC problem, plus now I get what feels like a miss in the engine.

    Has anyone else run into this. Thanks

    Welcome to the forum James, I will be interested to know how it comes out. I don't know how a bad turbo would cause high temp in the inlet. I would be inclined to go with what Brett said about cleaning the CC. The miss may be from a fuel or injector problem. Let us know what you find out.

    Bill


  9. Just a thought, you might need a little help but try rocking the coach front to back it might free up the pawl. With out being there it is hard to trouble shoot. Perhaps the wrecker that towed it put/left a preload on the linkage when they parked it. Have you checked the fluid level for the parking brake?

    Bill


  10. Mike welcome to the forum.

    How long since the last time you drove it?

    Does it start?

    Not that familiar with your coach but does it lock your steering wheel?

    Do you have some other system that may have an interlock to prevent driving like jacks down?

    There will be people on soon with more knowledge on your coach.

    Bill


  11. Glad you found the problem before you plugged in.

    Yes they pay for themselves. I tried to get by without one. The second trip I had an low voltage event that wiped out the circuit board on the washer. The cost of the board would have payed for the surge protector plus a tank of fuel.

    Bill


  12. I changed my valve while we were traveling this summer. The valve wasn't that expensive and not to hard to change. The only bad thing for me was it was on the right side and for me that is the side near the wall.

    This may be the one you need.

    http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/water-valve-assembly/2028

    I have the Sea Land but it looks like you only have 2 screws and connect the water line.

    Good luck and let us know how it works.

    Bill


  13. I would call and make sure the places you are interested in will be open. Many shut down for the winter.

    Summer before last I stayed at Smoky Bear Campground, 4857 East Parkway, Gatlinburg, TN 37738 (865) 436-8372. Lots of places closer to Pigeon Forge.

    But this was a nice place with large level concrete spots.

    We were more interested in the park than the Forge.

    Bill


  14. One of the problems we had was the water would form ice in the venturi and shut down the carb. This was in cooler temp but not freezing. Another thing was that you had to use purified water because after a while the chemical buildup would plug up the water orifice.

    Well that isn't likely to happen on a direct injection diesel. I haven't heard of any problems with nozzles clogging but they should be fairly easy to change.

    This is the system I am looking at I haven't decided whether to go with the double or single shot.

    http://www.bankspower.com/products/show/?option_id=474%7C79%7CDiesel%20Motorhomes%2C%20%0A03-07%20Cummins%20-%20ISB-CR%205.9L%7C19

    Hear is a link to an article you might like to read.

    http://www.dieselarmy.com/engine-tech/how-it-works/how-it-works-water-methanol-injection/

    Bill


  15. When used on diesel engines it works much the same as on gas engines. When using water alone it lowers the intake temperature which also lowers EGT temps. with just the water you may see a little bump in mileage because you are more efficient with a lower charge air temperature. With the added Methanol it will increase power as you are adding fuel. There are claims of added fuel mileage but that remains to be seen.

    Bill


  16. I have ben doing some research on Water/Methanol injection systems.

    I am wondering if anyone has doe this and what there results were and what was there experience on how much they used, average use etc. I am trying to decide how big of a tank I might need. They have kits that use the windshield washer supply tank. That doesn't seem like a big enough supply. Also wondering if they feel like they gained anything.

    This will be on a 5.9 ISB Cummins see my sig.

    Bill

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