hypoxia

The directions for using an accumulator tank are for reducing water hammering in a stick house with a closed system, the mounting position doesn't really matter. In a camper it is used for two things; extra capacity and to keep the water pump from cycling every time you turn a faucet on. If you mount the tank with the inlet/outlet on top, the bladder has to lift the water out. If it is mounted on its side or preferably with the inlet/outlet on the bottom the water falls out under pressure with better results, IMHO. Some water pump instructions discourage the use of an accumulator, I don't know why, especially with a check valve installed at the pump. I did have one of the HD/Lowes accumulator 5 gallon tanks get interior rust causing a problem, my current tank is an Reverse Osmosis drinking water tank. There may be no interior difference but since I had the availability I went that direction.

Ours had a fuse inside a little black filter box inline with the wiring behind the moniter. The new color system also came with the same configuration.

This is the first I have heard about the Cummins Club. Is the phone assistance for a clubmember any different than a non-member? Also the website access, is it any better than Cummins Quickserve?

Harbor Freight has jack stands for $99 + $7 shipping, they also have a 30 ton bottle jack for $99. Then you can safely get under there for any number of jobs or just to inspect it. I've seen the work that "professionals" have done, sometimes checking their work is a good thing. Even the best mechanic can screw up.

A 400 lb bike will need a lift. I use an Overbilt which weighs 300 lbs, there are a number of manufacturers out there. It will require two receivers to be welded on the camper. You need to calculate the weight addition, 700 lbs that far behind the axle may surprise you. Regardless of your feelings about possibly overloading the rear axle you definitely do not want to exceed the tire weight ratings. Add up the rear tire weight rating as labeled on the sidewall; 4 tires times the weight rating-do not exceed that.

I have the Overbilt electric lift, can't tell the difference in driving without the lift or with it & a 650# bike although I normally carry a 400# bike. I would see if electric or hydraulic is the lightest as it is a long way aft of the axle. If you are carrying a heavy bike you may exceed the axle & tire limits.

I assume it is a diesel pusher with the gauge ports at the front. It uses R134 refrigerant which can easily be added. Get a couple of cans and a hose with the gauge attached at any auto parts store. Get the cheapest R134 available as it is all the same. Do NOT get it with leak sealer. Sams Club has it the cheapest, a case of 12 for around $50. Follow the directions & put a can in, use a thermometer in the center vent & see if there is an improvement. Upright can puts vapor in-OK to run compressor. Not upright can puts liquid in-DO NOT run compressor; with the engine off it is OK to turn the can upside down & put it in. A can is 12 oz & there are 16 oz in a pound. You should call Beaver & see what the capacity is.

I've been wondering what to do with the small solar panel on top of the A/C unit. I abandoned it when I put 760 watts of solar panel on the roof. I think I will connect it to a fan above the refrigerator.

I was going to get the PRXB in Quartzsite next month but when I checked the Pacbrake for the serial number I found it was seized, the flange on the exhaust pipe was cracked and the clamps have to be replaced. I sure am glad I didn't wait, much easier to get a new flange welded on at home. I bead blasted the exhaust pipe and coated it with exhaust and manifold paint. As Brett said, it is a very easy install if you have access.