jjgnn@yahoo.com

I would love to trade you my 2003 Country Coach, but if I were you, I would keep what you have - that is an excellent coach. If the campgrounds fuss about the year, lie to them. If they catch you, say it was re-manufactured in (whatever date) so is like new. If your coach is well maintained, and I know it is from your posts, the issue will never come up, their "rules" will be satisfied. I am normally painfully honest, but stupid rules press me a bit. Do you think they would turn away a re -manufactured 1950 Airstream, polished all over, new tires, etc. Of course not. Or, if they did, they are too stupid to be my neighbor in any case. ;*)

This discussion went on at length at the Country Coach forum, and the short version: To eliminate chalking, making streaks down the side, an easy-cheap way to stop it, use Mop and Glow on top. Mine has been streak free for nearly a year. I applied it with a sponge. Use rubber gloves. A more permanent solution (sounds like your situation) Bus Coat (Kote?) was the major choice.

I checked your earlier post, and did not see the mileage or age of the tire. I realize that the loss of air through the valve extension likely caused all this adventure, but still it is nice to know all the particulars. I check my tires monthly, hoping to catch a slow leak or some other problem. I was in Phoenix, and the day before I left for Quartzite (a year or so ago) I checked my tires, they were fine. I got up that morning to go with my group, checked the tires again even though I had checked them the day before and had not rolled even one inch, and found a flat due to a cracked solid metal valve extension. For once my paranoia paid off, or I would have been in the same situation you found yourself. My tires (and presumably valve stems) were six years old at the time, about 40,000 miles. Passenger side inside dual. I got to Q a day late, but still did not have to deal with a flat on the road.

I use double stick tape, works great. In a few years there may be a fading of the paint, but since I plan to keep my FMCA membership as long as I own the coach (or any RV for that matter) I see no harm in that. Double stick tape stickum comes off readily with Goo-Gone or (preferably) 3M adhesive remover with no harmful effects.

You need to print out an owner's manual from the manufacturer. There is a fuse inline with the power to the commode, and that needs to be working. On mine, if I push both buttons twice, it will open the valve and leave it open, for cleaning, whatever. In the next step, pushing only the large flush button returns it to "normal" operation. On the lower right hand side of the bowl (facing the toilet) there is a switch that changes modes of the flush. There is a "residential" mode, that will open the valve and flush water into the bowl, then after a few seconds, close the valve and run enough water in to leave about 3" of water standing. The other switch setting is a "water saver" setting that only opens the valve and runs rinse water as long as the button is pushed. Release the button, and the valve closes and water flush stops. The "brain" may be confused on yours. Steps I would try: 1. Push the large button once and see if it resets. 2. Push both buttons twice in succession, see if it stays open. 3. Cycle the switch on the back of the commode (behind on the right side). Try it one way then the other. That is all I can suggest for now, after dealing with the commode for nearly two years. The seal and valve assembly is easily changed out, with complete instructions included with the kit. About $200 when that becomes necessary. If I had a choice I would probably get a foot operated valve type of commode, with a china bowl and the quality this unit has. Foot operated would be quieter, use no electricity except to move water into the bowl, and if used carefully would probably be less maintenance. Replacing the electric mechanism once in seven years is not a real bad problem, but still.......... If these steps do not help, email me at jjgnn(at)Yahoo(dot)com and I will dig my manual out.

In addition to the excellent above suggestions, I put a flat stopper on top of my shower drain. I am not sure if there is a "P" trap in the drain, but the flat "stopper" (just a flat heavy piece of rubber that fits the drain grid) cured my gray tank smell when traveling.

If I was going to do that, I would I would consider putting in a floor heating system. I do not know if wood laminate would be compatible with a heating system, but I would consider it. I love spending other people's money ;*) Jack Nichols, 2003 Country Coach, no heated floors.

My tires were original equipment on my 2003 Coach, and I asked Les Schwab in Oakridge, Oregon, to bid on new ones - he beat all prices I had been given the past three months, and stated they would be near new. I think they were still warm from the mold - I do know they stunk like raw rubber for months. They were about six weeks old. Besides they sold my old tires for me and gave me a check for $300.

"I'm not an expert in this area, but..." Should have left it at that. It works, quite well, with no modification of a popular integrated system. The physics and radio theory it is based on is proven and sound, since the 1920s. Jack Nichols KA5IFU 2003 Country Coach Intrigue

Re: TomandMark Remember, everyone brings joy into your life = some by coming in, some by leaving. I can't understand why some people go where they are not wanted, and do not want to be there. Seems insane to me.

My 2003 Country Coach does the same. The 1/2 inch drain line exits the tank, through a 90 degree petcock fitting through the floor of the bay. Just barely drips. When I recently drained the tank I ran most of the fresh water through the pump into the shower and drains. Before I start fiddling with it I would like to know the likely cause. No reason to reinvent the wheel if we do not have to.

Double stick tape works for me, through single digit temps, rain, snow, and Texas heat. I put it behind the ladder, so it is protected, but visible.

Looking at it from the cat's point of view, they are not pets - you are staff, there to do their bidding.

This may be a subject for "goofus trick of the day," but when I had a bad air whistle, I put up with it for two days, then discovered I had not properly latched the third window back on the passenger side. Driving motion cracked it open a little at a time, then it finally got bad enough and it was obvious. Normally I keep that blind closed, or I would have found it sooner. I like the blue tape idea, simple and direct. Thanks, Brett.

I once did a "wattage upgrade" in a tail light, and managed to partially melt the plastic lens - more watts, more heat. Just something else to watch out for. If your wife does not drive with her foot on the brake all the time, then higher wattage brake lights may not melt the plastic lens. Don't ask me how I know. The higher wattage may have been fine for the intermittent duty of a "normal" brake light application.