huling3

Brett Although this thread is old, some still work. Most of the first page are no longer but one was and just salvaged the coach I wanted/needed. Been searching for rear view mirrors for my 2003 Ambassador for over a year. Thank you. Fred Huling

Moonwink I'm not an expert in this matter at all but after reading the class action suit about the absorption system it is claimed the vessel that fails via a sudden split is filled with a flammable gas. Even if the ARPrv were to react instantly the fire would already be underway and fueled. Hence, the fused halon system would prevent destruction. Perhaps, an expert on the method the two major refers use on the newer units as well as the troublesome older units could explain further.

While at a FMCA rally in Coos Bay, Oregon last year my frig (Norcold 1200) gave up and died. I had an extended warranty through Wholesale Warranties. They authorized a replacement. I considered a residential but the bulk, weight and it's distribution plus added battery draw I elected to stay with the new 1200. I bought a lot of ice waiting for the new unit and a lot of conversations with a multitude of new friends. Several had taken precautions by adding a fuse activated Halon fire suppression. I ordered one online for about $220. Looks like most other small hand held extinguishers except for color. I hard mounted it in the back accessed from outside. Although small it's capacity is more than adequate for the size of the of the available space. It is certainly worth the peace of mind and a lot less than a new residential.

I have had a couple of EW from Wholesale Warranties. They change underwriters often but I am convinced they vet the underwriters very well. I am well ahead on my MH policy and absolutely trouble free. I would never buy EW on an just an appliance or like but a diesel pusher, yes! Also they had the best prices.

I used a Portland Oregon RV dealer with great results. Then CW took over. They would not let me see the work in progress as per "insurance policy", price went up and days dragged on. I would not even use them as a last resort as I cannot comprehend a world in which CW was the only and last chance. I use a motorhome friendly, certified Cummins truck dealer for chassis work and, when on the road I try to use RV repair shops recommended by CG host or RV parks managers. My brother-in-law has CW tire stories that defy belief including tire dates, brands, threats to fire an employee if he didn't allow a price bump, on and on. I agree that their retail shop should be the only reason to visit, however, I have always found the same product elsewhere for less when I have time to shop. Fred

I too, suffered from blowouts, One outside passenger and a thousand miles later a inside driver. I drive 60 mph. Goodyear tires with unknown miles but over 80% tread, 6 years old. The second tire on I 84 just west of Cheyenne caused thousands of $ damage (still working on a total). Suspect road hazard for first blowout. Checked the tires with a heat gun and the new tire was hot, checked pressure and it was low, re-inflated, drove 50 plus miles to Denver. Checked tire again and it was low again. Tire service found a leaky extension was deflating tire so I'll disagree with you who think the heat guns are only for BBQ's. However, all that and my real question remains. Although I'm sure this has been discussed many times I couldn't find the right thread. Remote tire pressure monitoring! My local tire dealer said his company will not install them anymore and I've heard both sides of the issue. I have it on my Ram as standard equipment and I think most new cars have it and a number of the big trucking companies love them and others refuse to use them. Any new evidence for or against remote? Fred

I wish I knew what my MPG was but living in the Pacific NW we seldom see a flat spot and over the course of a couple of tanks of fuel I can only guess. We have a 2003 HR with a 315 hp cummins 38' with a toad at 5000#. The biggest problem with our fuel tank is trying to get the same level each fuel stop. Did it once and on flat run for 9.75 mpg. We use 7.5 mpg to estimate our fuel stops and I only worry about getting in and out of a station.

Rich Thanks, this opened up a couple of possibilities. I'm just not sure how to proceed from here. I think I'll just take into a dealer. With control/thermostat being solid state I'm thinking the unit itself has a problem. I took the roof cover off to clean it the other day when the problem first started. The problem unit had a large birds nest. It appeared to be a work in progress. I cleaned it up, fan was quiet and smooth and A/C kicked in however, as before without the normal delay. After that the cooling cycle was uncontrollable. Possible something in the roof unit is messed up as a result of the nest. If so, what? I have no idea when the nest could have started or how long it's been there. I didn't see any problems such as signs of overheating but I'm not a a/c guy. I appreciate your input and the links. It really helped the thought process. Thanks again, Fred

Rich The only names on the control/thermostat is Comfort Control & Duotherm . When I popped the control box off the wall I'm looking at the back side of a circuit board. I dis-assembled the controller and a # shows up on both sides of the board 50-981501-B. It maybe the comfort control board is the only board in play. If so, a new control/thermostat is probably the only answer. It is not serviceable. Fred

I have a 2003 Ambassador with two Duo-Therm roof A/C units. The front unit now comes on without the customary lag time and may or may not get around to producing cold air. Thermostat no longer controls anything except the main off/on switch for the front unit. Rear unit works as it should. I doubt the problem is the thermostat but I can't find a control board. I would think there is some controller to keep both units from cycling on at the same time etc. Does anyone know where this phantom control box is located or am I thinking wrong?

Oregon treats RV's and cars the same, up to 65 on interstates, 55 other highways or as signed Trucks max at 55.

I, also, just got off the phone with Cummins about the use of bio-diesel in the ISC engines, while the emissions were not discussed, I did get an earful about the ISC engines. They are only approved for # 2 diesel. Any Bio will shorten engine life, reduce economy and require more frequent fuel filter changes. B-20 is worse than B-5 by a huge amount. I didn't get into engine size or date of production, just ISC.

I have a 2003 Ambassador with extras from the aftermarket to fit my liking. I just left an Ambassador click thru from FMCA's site. The brochure puts the Ambassador as the Holiday Rambler flagship and on a Roadmaster with two gassers and a class C to finish the HR presentation. I've lost any brand loyalty I had with this HR offering. Still love my coach. Just a note to other post, all new HR's have middle doors.

Tom and Louise Very cool!!! Thanks a lot, wife feels better already. We will be attending a FMCA rally on the Oregon coast this June so maybe I'll learn to upload a picture and other data. The great part is we are heading to Edinburg on our road trip. My wife was born there, has family there and we are just starting to explore RV parks nearby. I'll look up Sandpiper as a possibility. We are leaving Oregon sometime in Sept and plan to head back home sometime in October. Six to eight weeks on the road. Give or take! We just put new trailing arms under her for this trip along with some major suspension upgrades. Maybe we will cross paths. We've had camping rv's for 40 years but now we've upgraded to more creature comforts less camping. Thanks again, Fred & Louise Huling 2003 38' Holiday Rambler Ambassador 2012 Ram on a Blackhawk/Invisibrake

We will be making a 7,000 mile run this fall and my wife wants "vehicle return" insurance if I can't drive. My current roadside assist will only cover $500. Any supplements or other coverage for this situation?