747guy

Great addition. Definitely get a slide out for this unit to make it easily accessible.

If the original Dometic roof unit has been replaced, it may not have the HP Heat Pump option, even though the thermostat shows this option. My furnace mode is attached to my aqua hot system, so this must be turned on with a separate switch. If not,, nothing happens when furnace is selected on the Dometic Thermostat.

New Dometic CF 80 fridge freezer. Coach is a 2006 Monaco Camelot 43. Dometic unit installed in middle bay curb side. There is both 120v plug and 12VDC socket. unit works ok in my Tahoe using the DC plug in the cargo area. checked voltage in bay and it is indicating 12.95 volts. Talked with Dometic and they indicate orange blinking light indicates low power. Compressor starts up and the quits and light goes from green (indicating compressor is operating) to flashing orange (indicating low voltage) so can anyone tell me where this bay 12 volt gets its power from??? Could I be having a ground problem or is there a relay involved? Hard to figure stuff out without wiring diagrams. any help or suggestions appreciated.

Just replaced the heating element in my 2001 Monaco. It took less than 20 minutes and cost about 20 bucks for the element.

Daylight savings time. Change the batteries in the CO2 Alarm

Do you have a filter inside the fridge? This may be removing the colouring from the antifreeze. If you taste the slush you will quickly recognize the sweet taste of anti freeze.

Thank you for your prompt response Brett. I have had the house and chassis batteries recently replaced plus a new Xantrex 3000 watt inverter. My Monaco had a system that allowed both sets to be charged, but it was replaced with another unit. Your post points to the alternator not supplying high enough voltage to the chassis batteries, but while the generator was running, the inverter was supplying enough voltage to satisfy the needs of the tach and speedo. The voltmeter on the dash usually reads about 13 volts, so I was comfortable with that. what should I be reading from the alternator? 13.6 volts more or less?

I have had ongoing problems with my tach and speedo acting erratically. I have taken it to Allied in Coburg and they fixed it for 500 miles and told me it was a grounding problem. I have had other members indicate similar problems. Yesterday while returning from The FMCA rally in Albany, I ran the generator and the AC while travelling. Lo and behold the tach and the speedo worked perfectly. Yahoo....what a thrill to have a tach when running up and down mountains. So, I spent last night trying to draw a conclusion as to why the generator running fixed my problem. Transfer switch came to mind, but no other logical connections could I make. Any ideas Wolfe or Herman or anybody?

Thanks to Rich, I received the schematic. My seat was a Villa with mechanical swivel. However, I found two wires that were open as a result of previous repair and poor positioning of wires. All is well and thanks to all for helping. Anybody have a Villa seat wiring diagram for future use?

Thanks Herman...standing by

Seat failed with footrest fully extended. Had 13 volts going to the unit from the two wires coming out of the floor. 4 way has no movement. Seat is dead. Removes 4 way switch from side of seat and no power at the checkpoints on the back. Is there a fuse or breaker as part of the seat mechanism that needs resetting? Took mechanical links apart to lower foot rest for the return trip home. Not an easy item to work on unless you are an acrobat and have tiny hands?

My 2001 Nor old only has three mode options. Auto, AC , LP. It does not have a DC mode.

Just to finish this saga, I replaced the transfer switch and all is well. Clicking in and out has not resurfaced. Thanks for all your help. I could not find the "answered" green posting. Where is it please?

Dometic makes an add on unit that is I think called a Safe Start box. What it does is reduce the initial high amperage draw from the compressor when the unit kicks in. It slowly allows the amperage to increase while starting and therefor does not cause the surge that sometimes kicks the breaker in iffy voltage situations. I have installed these units on my boat which has three AC units, and they work like a charm. No more breaker kicking off.

I would buy a brass connector that allowed you to screw a cap on it on one end and for the hose on the other end from your local parts store. That is if you are planning on using the coach with generator removed.

Wolfe 10 Thanks for the readings I should get in checking the outlet. What readings should I be getting from the prongs of my power cord, of course unplugged? Presently I have batteries turned off at switches, and I turned the inverter switch off on the unit. I am not at the coach at the moment, but am planning on going this afternoon to try and figure out what is going on. Thanks for your help.

Rich, I just purchased this coach in Texas and drove it to B.C. It was plugged in to a proper 50 amp service at MHSRV and everything worked fine. I just used the Genset on the way home as we were at rest areas overnight. The first time I used 120v/20 amp connection was when I reached home. Two adapters,50/30 and 30/15. That seemed to work OK. I unplugged and ran twenty miles to dump. When I returned and plugged in the 120/15amp, the clicking started at the electrical service bay and I would get 120 V for a few seconds and then it would kick out. I finally resorted to run the Genset and it worked just fine. Next, I put it in storage at a friends shed who has the 2012 Monaco. When I plugged my coach in to the same outlet (after he removed his plug) my coach kept blowing the breaker in the shed (50amp)?????? I have not been able to get back to check my cord to see if I have a dead short , nor have I been able to examine the ATS relay box.

Monaco 2001 40ft Dynasty. Plugged in shore power(50amp plug) in storage shed, blew shed breaker. Supply is good as another 2012 Monaco was using it. Disconnected batteries, turned off inverter, still blew breaker. I am a new owner and not sure of components qualifying the shore power. Everything works OK from Genset. While plugged in to my house 115/20 amp service using the proper adapters, the relay in the electrical cord bay would click on, and then off. Twenty seconds later it would retry.....click..click. Checking the AC panel, I would have momentary 120 volt indication and very low amp draw indicated, and then it would kick off. One other thing I did was start the Genset while plugged in to my house. It blew the 20 amp house breaker. With the above clues, I hope it points to something simple to replace, and if so, where the culprit is located? The only way I could get AC (120v) from that point on was to run the Genset. Then I took it to storage and the above sequence of events occurred. It reacts like a dead short in blowing the storage shed breaker Hope this makes sense.

Thanks Rich for taking the time to answer in detail. It appears that I am going to remove the unit for troubleshooting by pulling the Insides out. I put the coach in heated storage yesterday and we are off to Costa Rica for the winter. I will report back next spring when I return to tackle the problem. But wait a minute.......it will be spring and I will not need the furnace, so maybe I will just add it to my TO DO list. Thank you all for educating me in the sequential operation of the system. Till the spring!!!

Yes I do have a SF42F.....thanks Walt. The blower motor does not start. I do have 12 volts on red wire. The reason for my question was to confirm how to get the unit out from underneath the fridge. Lots of ducts and sealant blocking easy removal. It appears the control board is back closest to the skin of the coach, at least that is where the wires go. Do the guts of the furnace slide out of the case by removing the outside inlet and exhaust flanges? I am asking all these questions hoping for something simple that I have overlooked as the solution.

When mode is selected to furnace, all I hear is a click at the furnace. All fuses are OK. Unit does not have exterior access, only from under the fridge. How difficult is it to remove this unit for further testing? It appears very difficult to remove this unit? Any experienced Suburban furnace removers out there? Getting cold here in British Columbia....