jleamont
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Posts posted by jleamont
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Puff, thanks for the explanation!
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DR, check out this post. Two products are linked and would be the best solution of the roof is fiberglass. If it’s a membrane this is used around most openings. Any RV dealer should have it in hand.
Discussion link;
https://dicorproducts.com/product/epdm-lap-sealants/
I wouldn’t use flexseal on any RV roof.
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2 hours ago, huffypuff said:Yes this OP turned into bash Norcold and sell their favorite fridge. I met the maker of the ARP unit and his wife at Quartzsite and was explained the working of an RV fridge. The 120 v elements can cause an overheat and crack the burner tube. I installed the ARP unit about 4 years ago and disconnect the 120 v power. Don't have any problem with temperature in fridge or freezer. It's on propane all the time when using the rv and I drive with it on with no problem.
How is yours running down the road? Any secrets to share or lessons learned to help the OP? With your technical background, a rundown on the fridge workings from ARP and owning the same model might be huge on this post.
Ours went warm on the road also and I never got to the bottom of it.
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Any truck shop should be able to access a replacement sensor. I am not sure what system your Roadmaster chassis has but most were a Bendix ABS system which is common on medium duty trucks.
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4 hours ago, TXiceman said:The recall is nothing more than adding a safety shutdown that shuts down and locks out the fridge. It is not really a proper repair.
They will catch fire on electric or propane.
Ken
YUP! Mine had both recalls completed and still caught fire.
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Robert, I can understand why you were told that (in theory it makes sense) but ours caught fire on electric and if you do a web search most others did as well. So even on electric there is still a risk.
Depending on your campground preference a residential model might make the most sense.
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23 hours ago, F458085 said:Where can I get abs sensor cable? I have a 2003 H R Neptune .
Had a rear wheel seal replaced and first trip after got home and noticed the cable from the rear wheel dragging the pavement.
Called REV and trouble getting through. Any ideas?
Are you referring to the main chassis cable or the pigtail on the wheel sensor?
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The process should be similar to the video Herman posted. It resides below the steering wheel and it will have to be removed. That would be the hardest part. Other than that it’s just a few screws and electrical plugs. Just use a puller to do so and DO NOT strike the steering shaft with a hammer to release the splines on the steering wheel. Most are collapsible by design and it will ruin the shaft.
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4 hours ago, manholt said:Joe. We or I at least, thank you for the info...sure it will be handy for those on a limited time schedule! If I can save .20 to .40 cents PG at the pump? Not Stupid.
The savings are and would be great! Anytime I can save a few cents and have the convenience would just add to it!
Just not having to run in and out of the store (which usually isn’t close by) plus you are holding up the truck lanes and angering truckers.
Think about the people on here with limited mobility, a fuel card that will turn on the pumps in the truck lanes would be huge for those folks.
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I looked into these cards, my main purpose was to be able to use the truck lanes as most still do not accept credit cards at the pumps on the truck islands.
or
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We just experienced this on the way to Florida. Pilot/FJ were 15 cents higher just off of the interstate. I used gas buddy to see what was cheaper. The farther from I95 inland the cheaper, it went up to almost 25 cents per gallon savings. DW points out, how old is the fuel, can we get in and out safely, how long will it take, and how much fuel will we burn getting to and from?? All good questions. I whipped out my Goodsam fuel card and stopped at a Pilot. I was in and out in maybe 10-15 minutes.
Time is money, I am on vacation and didn’t want an 11 hour day to turn into a 12 hour day. We had a campground to get to before 9pm.
the last time I went out of my way for cheap fuel we got Diesel bugs that i fought for over a year to get rid of.
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I stumbled upon this website for replacement RV skylights.
I figured this would be helpful locating the right replacement for a DIY project.
https://www.eztopsworldwide.com/
Remember do not use silicone, this product works great with fiberglass roofs;
https://www.geocelusa.com/product/pro-flex-rv-flexible-sealant/
Another alternative or use in conjunction with the Proflex;
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On 7/12/2019 at 7:12 PM, jc21014 said:Update. We left the CG in Holland, Michigan this at 11a this morning. Pryor to turning off the pedestal 50a breaker, I reached in and started to pull out about (3) ft more of power cord from the reel. Heard the transfer switch click and lost ac power to the coach. Quit pulling on the cord and the ac kicked on at 20 seconds as it should. Me thinks that something(wire connections/brushes) in the cord reel itself might be the culprit. We are now at a cg close to Mackinac Island for 4 days or so. Plugged in with no problems. I will check the cord reel for loose connections or try and find a mobile rv tech if one is available here. I know my limitations when it comes to electricity. I remember reading a discussion on another forum(?) about cord reels causing electical issues. Now to find which forum.
If you are not comfortable working around AC by all means call in a mobile RV repair.
They could simply remove the cord from the reel and hard wire it directly to the ATS. That would be the most cost effective solution.
Glendinning makes a reel that is directly hard wired, basically it just rolls your cord into a bucket (mounts above it) but the other end is direct to the ATS. No more brushes! I have seen them used at RV salvage yards and they have several different models.
Might be a good alternative to the current design. Photo below is the common one found in older Monaco products.
https://www.glendinningprods.com/products/
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Does this coach have a power cord reel? After the cord reel is there a plug connecting the reel to the coach?
Carls coach is set up like this, he was having electrical issues, when I found where the reel plugged into the coach it is a Twist lock style and it vibrated loose. I had a heck of a time reaching back to resecure it and set the locking collar. I thought for sure that was the problem, wasn’t but could have caused his ATS to fail.
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Depending on the thermostat, they make conversion kits to use an old style thermostat with new style AC units. What I don’t know if you can go the other way. Are these Dometic AC units?
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2 hours ago, hermanmullins said:On June 11 I wrote that I would update my results to over filling my oil bath hubs. I am going to need to drain the hubs to get the oil level down. My bad. They both slung oil bad. Now drain, refill correctly and clean my wheels.
Herman
Take a pin or paperclip and make sure the center hole on the plug isn’t clogged.
Very common for dirt to clog those, excessive pressure builds up and the plug pops out, also makes a mess of the wheels!
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I worked on one of these systems before, similar concern, no side camera. Check the connections on the back of the monitor.
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1 hour ago, FIVE said:Thanks for the information, guys. A couple of MHers have mentioned using beads. I have no experience with them....any opinions good or bad?
I am not a fan, however they do work. Tireman might be able to shed some light on that.
I always had a concern of the friction they could possibly create inside the tire.
We match mount tires at work, seems to do very well with little effort. Here's a link on that process;
https://m.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=17
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Five, I had my front spin balanced, the rear I did nothing. We also run Centramatics on each wheel end.
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1 hour ago, manholt said:Why specifically a 05-6?
The only years with the 6 speed manual and the 4.0L
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2 door. Short wheel base not the “Unlimited”.
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Jeanne, ATS- Automatic Transfer Switch. It switches you from generator to shore power
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Keithl, my ISL 400 with the 3000 series Allison runs coolant 180-195 and transmission on the highway 175-185. If I am in stop and go the transmission has climbed up to 200. I clean my coolant package annually with this;
Its sold at many box stores, even Home Depot.
windows
in Type A motorhomes
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I considered tackling this myself a few years ago. I ended up removing the window, disassembling, and I replaced just the fogged side. Once it was apart it looked simple.
Do you have a link for the products?