jleamont
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Posts posted by jleamont
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11 hours ago, hermanmullins said:John,
I made my first response from my phone.
Welcome to the Forum.
Herman
So it’s not just me that cannot see their post count from mobile.
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We like going into the country, be it desert or mountains, paved, sand, gravel, mud, etc. Jeep fits the life style! Can't imagine doing that in a rental car..
Carl, you can do that in a rental car, take the optional insurance!
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1 hour ago, Bobanderson294 said:Thanks, I'll be sure to follow your advice! Also, thanks for the video link!
Glad to help. Be careful on the roof.
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We fall into the "this wouldn't work for us" category. Or shall I say technology just isn't quite there yet and much too expensive at the present time. I will need my generator as our RV lifestyle typically chases hotter climates. While traveling down the road its not uncommon to be running the generator to supply power to both roof top A/C units. Unless a battery could be powerful enough to keep both units running and cost effective enough to use in place of the generator its just not practical.
From my seat, we already have the generator, fuel consumption is very cost effective and its very quiet inside and not terrible outside.
If we boondocked in colder climates where A/C is not needed then solar panels and Lithium battery power MIGHT make sense, but so does AGS, which we do have and its programmed to keep the batteries fresh in our absence should we loose power. We don't boondock except an overnight or two while in route to some destination, at the destination is a 50 amp receptacle with full hookups
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polishhilldave, you sound like you are in a similar situation as us, AGM batteries sound like a more reasonable upgrade (assuming your charger can accommodate) this time around, maybe next time Lithium would be something to consider, its not off the table for us in the future either but it needs to make sense and of course be functional.
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I check ours 2-3 times per year. With that being said its every 2-3 years something might need some touch up. I wash our coach roof 1-2 times per year, those are 2 of the 3 inspections.
When we purchased our first RV, the dealer was very helpful, we walked the roof together and the tech told me that they must be checked at a minimum of 2 times a year.
Here is a video on how to apply lap sealant;
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I bought a replacement interior shade from this company, very nice to work with;
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Here is a brain twister;
This topic reminds me of the "EXIT" and "ENTRANCE" at store. If you walk through the EXIT sign to enter the store, are you using the incorrect door, especially if the sign is facing the parking lot? Technically you are Exiting the parking lot.
This is why I need to keep busy, too much runs through my head
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My HWH air leveling is the same. Press the up arrow and the coach raises, down lowers the coach.
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MyDog, what make and model awning do you have?
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pbattle6775, Welcome to the FMCA forums!
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That's the same one I saw. I was thinking a retractable mount that sat flush in the compartment so you wouldn't have to look at that on the exterior wall when not in use.
Something like this;
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Doug, does you RV have a basement door in the area under the awning? The reason I ask, if you could put the mount inside the compartment, pull it out and hang the TV it would be much more attractive than some sort of mount on the exterior wall.
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BF Goodrich
in Tires
I have had that same tire make/model on our coach since March 2017. No complaints, no issues and they were very cost effective. Glad they took care of you!
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spstew0952, Welcome to the FMCA forums!
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Great job!!
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11 hours ago, RayIN said:FWIW, hub oil is not the same formula as differential oil.
75w90 on my front hubs and Rear differential.
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BarbHasenfus, Welcome to the FMCA Forums!
Usually that is recommended for cars that will turn on modules once it senses the vehicle in motion. Most Ford products go into a “sleep” mode after 15 minutes as long as it’s sitting still where all of the computers shut down and only draw power to keep memory.
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34 minutes ago, djsamuel said:In addition, the tendency of some manufacturers to provide tires rated barely above the dry weight of the camper is a big contributor.
I have also seen RV's overweight when they left the manufacturing plant. The last one was a Fleetwood Jamboree Class C. Rear axle was overloaded already, and what was there was behind the rear axle so when you filled the fresh tank it became hard to steer as there wasn't enough weight on the steer axle. Buyer beware I guess..?
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54 minutes ago, hermanmullins said:I have Stemco Oil Bath hubs on the tag axles on our Dynasty.
I've got them on the steer axle on ours.
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48 minutes ago, manholt said:Good points. May I suggest, that most tire failure is caused by owner error! Too much or to little tire pressure, incorrect loaded RV, over weight.
Don’t forget the 65mph tire rolling by at 90 which has always been my favorite, 2nd favorite is the uneven distribution across the axles. Trailer nose pointed down or in the clouds.
I have ran China tires in construction, trucks and trailers of all sizes. Never a problem other than ride quality!
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King, is the engine light on? You will need to have any engine fault codes retrieved from the Engine Control Module.
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We looked at a 2013 Excursion with a ISB 340 five years ago. My only concern was it’s nearly impossible for service access and repair access. In the end that could really rack up some money in maintenance costs.
Just something to consider...
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Last update; ATS has been installed. I installed a Surge Guard 41260 and he is back up on shore power.
It has some voltage protection, mostly miswired pedestal. Carl has to use the portable type now for the full EMS protection.
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35 minutes ago, manholt said:Especially when it's wired backwards!!!
! A proper schematic is key to a proper diagnosis! You can thank TRC for that one.
Sewer hatch seal
in Type A motorhomes
Posted · Report reply
We have those Critter guards on all of our hatches. They work as designed