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Posts posted by jleamont
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39 minutes ago, rossboyer said:I did locate the product I mentioned above. It is Gel Gloss. It is available at Walmart, Lowe’s and Home Depot plus I am sure many other outlets.
I am familiar with that product. I used it on the last Motorhome (no full paint) and my old boat. Both are gone now, I might still have some around.
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41 minutes ago, manholt said:Joe, agree! My Tireminders are floating in the Gulf of Mexico!
PP cost more & well worth it...Must be a reason why, high end coaches come with them!
41 minutes ago, manholt said:Joe, agree! My Tireminders are floating in the Gulf of Mexico!
PP cost more & well worth it...Must be a reason why, high end coaches come with them!
What system do you run now?
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50 minutes ago, hermanmullins said:If yours are in really bad shape you may even hire them to come out and recondition them for you.$$$
They look great, just no deep shine.
56 minutes ago, wolfe10 said:Gloss, polishing compound.
That's the end result desired.
Here are some photo's of the current appearance.
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Kay, they are Corian all the way through. Surprised me when I had to modify the well for the Induction cook top 3 years ago, wasn't easy to get through.
It's dull in the high usage areas and has a slight shine near the outer edges, anyone that knows me understands how much that is driving me crazy. Our coach looks like a show piece inside and I am fighting to keep it that way.
Thank you everyone for the suggestions.
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Has anyone polished their Corian countertops in their RV? Ours are looking dull.
I found this product at Home Depot and I was curious if anyone had any experience to share at home or RV.
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1 hour ago, floydfowler said:I have only one window and it goes from 6 to 2 when turn on the exhaust brake, and downshifts twice as I am slowing down.
Good news! I finally studied the wiring diagram ( with a magnifying glass as the print is tiny) and was able to locate two Omron 7866 relays for the exhaust brake in the front panel. I switched then with two borrowed from other positions (panel has 5 or 6 of the same relay) and took the coach for a test drive. Turbo boost works fine now after using the exhaust brake. One or both of the relays was sticking and both are now in the trash with four more coming from Amazon.We are ready to hit the road again!😋😎
Many thanks for your time and assistance!
Great troubleshooting! Glad you are all fixed up.
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Rich, here is another one for larger coaches, personally I’d call off of the list either way:
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Can’t help if it’s covered.
After the air brake test (depending on results) park on a slight incline and release the parking brake, does it roll?
If it’s bypassing internally you should hear air rushing through the parking brake switch.
Depending on the manufacturer you might not observe an audible air leak. Haldex brake chambers are the one common manufacturer that will make you scratch your head when the internal diaphragm fails.
Trying to get an answer without crawling under to see if they are released or not. That’s the last resort!
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I always taught it this way; pull the emergency breakaway cable cord, tail gate down for a tug test. This also checks the emergency breakaway to make sure it functioning properly and the brakes are adjusted properly.
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The speaker for the system is above the accelerator pedal, can you clip a wire or wrap it in a towel to quiet it down?
Are you sure you don't have a problem with the hydraulic jacks? I believe they share the same speaker.
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The most common problem is the pressure switch on the parking brake valve fails. Remove the console at the parking brake release valve and disconnect the wire and see if it stops.
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Got it, buy a few of these, place them on rocks around your site so they warm up. You can have the drip shower you desire and no serious mods needed to the coach other than a hook to hang it in the shower area.
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Here is a good visual. This is the mounting kit I installed;
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35 minutes ago, richard5933 said:We do a lot of dry camping. When we do use water, we use it often on what others would call a trickle. We can make our 80 gallons last a week for two people.
Ahh, ok
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1 hour ago, richard5933 said:I looked into that one, but it seems that our low-flow situation won't be enough to trigger the burner. There is also a problem on thankless heaters when you use the on/off feature on the shower head.
I'm surprised that no one makes a traditional water heater with a floor exhaust or possibility of remote mounted exhaust/intake.
Why low flow? We have this one in our coach, works fine with the shower head switch. This unit works flawlessly so far with every obstacle I have tossed at it.
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Richard, you need this water heater, LPG and 12v for the electronics. It utilizes an exhaust pipe and can be in the basement of the coach, it vents through the floor. Its tankless so it would be endless hot water.
https://precisiontemp.com/products/rv-550-nsp/
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Usually you would turn it until its no longer tight and pull upwards. The tightening just compresses the seal causing it to grab the bore on the hole. Do not loosen it to much or you will risk dropping the nut into the reservoir. Try wiggling it side to side, the last person in there might not have lubed the seal properly and it glued itself to the bore.
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To test it you need a Magnehelic gauge bar. Looks like this (photo below). First step is to know the pressure spec required. That has a hand pump on it that is connected to a gauge.
Without the specs you can unhook the actuator, make sure the valve operates freely in the turbo housing. Vacuum test the diaphragm to make sure there are no leaks. If those check out the control needs to be checked. For that the proper software with a scan tool would be needed.
In most cases you can over take the engine and actuate/manipulate the inputs and outputs and see if boost changes.
If you can just simply swap the turbocharger depends on the year of the engine.
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5 hours ago, RayIN said:Been stuck in mud at a rally yet? No-one wants that,but we all want out.
Not yet, and I fear it.
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Too bad you are so far away. I swapped ours out in an afternoon for well under $1000.
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On 5/24/2019 at 7:13 PM, RayIN said:My ISC has a lift pump, although I've never had it off, I would think it also has a screen like my old 5.9 CTD had in its lift pump. I wonder if algae can clog this screen?
My ISL has a screen on the pump inlet. However with two filters before it it’s not likely algae would make it that far.
I had a bad case of Diesel bugs a few years ago in our coach. They originated in the tank and stopped at the primary filter. Looked like blackberry jam and multiplied like The Blob, if anyone has even seen that movie.
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Keith, we have the same issue after the coach sits all winter. But that’s it, once a year.
DD mentioned lubing the S cams, have the tubes and slack adjusters been adequately lubed? we are both assuming you have air drum brakes? The clevis pins can also seize where the push rod connects to the slack adjuster and cause issues. Depending on the brake shoe compound might accelerate them rusting to the drums.
If it were me I’d pull the wheels and have a good inspection performed, S cam bushings checked for excessive play. I have seen many that will bind due to bad bushings.
They certainly shouldn’t wear out that soon but if never adequately lubed they certainly could fail in 15,000 miles.
If they are air disc let me know. They can be quirky also, just much more $$ to fix.
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Oh My!! Sorry for your loss.
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10 hours ago, ISPJS said:I know this was an older post, but last month we stayed at a CG in Anniston AL for 3 nights and picked up ants. It was off I-20 (Good Sams Campground Of Oxford-Talladega).
I didn't notice anything when breaking camp. When we arrived in eastern Tennessee at our next stop and I opened the wet bay door there were thousands of ants crawling all over. I had about half of a one gallon jug of insect spray so I removed the top and splashed the whole jug inside the bay. After hooking up we went to the store and purchased 16 ant traps and 2 cans of ant spray.
8 of the traps went inside the coach and 8 was spread out in different basement compartments. I used a whole can of spray inside the coach around the baseboard, behind pantry shelves, under the sink, etc. For the next couple of days I found a few slow moving ants in the storage bays. By the 3rd or 4th day I only found dead ants and we haven't had an issue since.
As a preventive measure I have left most of the traps in place plus I added about 20 dryer sheets to the basement storage areas. I know from past experience that dryer sheets are good for keeping mice away but someone told me they help with ants also.
Beware of that CG we stayed in off of I-20 though, there were other reviews indicating there has been an ant problem there for awhile.
We use peppermint oil for Mice, supposedly works well for spiders and some other insects, I keep them in all year. Cotton balls soaked and placed in Dixie Condiment cups with holes punched in the lids.
Joe I also keep an arsenal of sprays around. Depending on what I see when setting up ill spray my utilities coming up to the coach and around the tires.
Spartan chassis drag link availability
in Chassis
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Try TRW customer support. Did Spartan provide the TRW part number?