cessnadrvr2000

so a quick question since this is specific to the Equinox, How is the 2018-2020 Equinox with the 1.5 T and 9 speed trans flat tow capable but the GMC Terrian same years, same engine and trans NOT?? Anyone know the reason?

I have a 2016 V-10 5 speed. I have added a 5 star tune ($400) and a Banks ram air intake ($400) and insulated my dog house with Dyna Mat extreme mat ($80) Yes my engine has hit 5000 RPM when pulling a hill and yes before the above mentioned upgrades it was loud. It was also due to the Ford transmission set up and my inexperience at the coach and driving it. I rarely every go over 4200 RPM even in cruise and most of the time it is at 2200 RPM @ 65 MPH and very quiet and easy conversation in the front end. I am not a full timer and will probably average 10,000 miles a year on my coach for the next 3-4 years. I am very happy with my coach and have no worries about pulling hills with my tow vehicle (2013 Hyundai Elantra). The tow/haul engine breaking does a very good job of downhill grade speed control as well, no its not a jake brake but it does well for a coach in this class weight range. Just for reference the newer 2016 F-53 are coming with the new v-10 6 speed (The 6.8L 3-valve V10 with 6-speed TorqShift® automatic is standard on the F-53 Motorhome Stripped Chassis and F-59 Commercial Stripped Chassis. The dependable 6.8L features a free-breathing 3-valve-per-cylinder induction system and generates an impressive 320 horsepower and 460 lb.-ft. of torque.) ​ I believe the torque range for that 460 lb-ft is at 4350 RPM now if I remember my number right. The new 6 speed is a good improvement in both noise, power band @ RPM, and overall performance of the V-10. Unless you need an over 40 foot coach and tons of tow weight or tons of storage weight and full time, the new gas V-10 is a very good and economic option. The Newmar and the Allegro also offer a 24k and 26k chassis. Mine is 22K and I can pretty much take everything for a month extended trip plus pull up to 4K tow weight just fine.

I recently bought an all climate cover for my RV. I store it on my land, and will be building a carport to store it under eventually. It is very heavy but I can get it up on top with minimal effort. Mine has heavy top with well vented sides and air flow vents all around. Two zipper areas on the door side to allow access while it is on the RV. I've already had it on once and will be putting it on after I do good power wash. I see no rubbing issue as it has bungee straps for front and rear as well as pull straps that go across the under side. I am not sure how it would be a rodent issue but i have two outside cats. LOL Here is the exact cover I purchased: http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/elements-all-climate-rv-cover-class-a-34-37/69267 ​ I have had some windy days while it was on the RV and saw very little movement that would concern me on my coach and any rubbing. It protects from snow and ice and UV the most damaging for the outside of the coach, as well as keeps it from heating up and provides some external insulation factor. I keep my coach plugged into a 20 AMP service as well. Just my thoughts. ​

lenp, that is my point, if its winter you wouldn't need your A/C and the solar set up can power your coach just fine other than the A/C. Sure stay connected to the pole for needs but flip the breaker off on the pole and run on your solar. Saving for the monthly electric bill would be much greater for winter stays in long term parks. Just a thought for how to help justify the solar and help go a bit more green on energy use for your RV.

Rayzar Automatic Amplified HD TV Antenna Winegard’s first fully automatic over-the-air HD TV antenna is here! Unlike other over-the-air antennas that must be manually aimed for local digital broadcast signals, this antenna automatically scans and searches for available TV signals and points where the most channels are found. It’s simple and super easy, just the way it should be! Manual override option lets you manually tune the antenna if you desire. The Rayzar Automatic is a dual band VHF/UHF antenna that uses a state-of-the-art amplifier to increase range and channels while reducing the chance for pixilation and dropouts. Encased in an ultra-sleek, attractive white dome, all elements are protected to withstand harsh outdoor conditions. Includes 12-volt DC wall plate interface/power supply, 20’ 75 ohm coax cable, 6’ 75 ohm coax cable, mounting hardware, interior ceiling cover and exterior roof plate. Backed by Winegard’s 2-year limited warranty. U.S. Patent Pending. Designed and manufactured in the USA.12-volt DC 0.5 amps 6 watts Patent pending Requires minimum 18.5” x 18.75” roof space - See more at: http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/rayzar-automatic-amplified-hd-tv-antenna/82088#sthash.ajSz9gWl.dpuf​ I had this installed when I picked up my coach, it has performed very well on the road and at camp sites. it is very low profile, and needs no other set up to run.

Very true wolfe, but still a pretty good alternate power source. If they are looking to reduce there semi-permanent electricity cost at a winter park it would pay off in the long run. I see most parks will charge you the electric rate when you stay longer than a week or are a monthly camper. This was one of the OP's concerns as well. A good solar set up like any of the ones suggested here would reduce the cost and within a few years more than likely pay for its self in the initial purchase and install cost. If I am wintering then A/C should not be a big deal since even in the winter spots it is cooler and the solar would power most furnace blowers on a propane heat or the electric fireplaces in most coaches.

You can check this link out if you like. It has more than just the solar upgrades but has a pretty good look at a high power solar set up http://www.gonewiththewynns.com/rv-modifications-technology​ 960 Watts of GoPower! Solar Panels with Tilting Kit960 watt system with six 160 watt panels are wired together in series putting out over 100 volts DC. This allows us to use smaller cable for the long run from the solar panels to the solar controller because the amperage is still very low. We have a potential of 54 amps of power per hour when in good sun, that’s a lot of power! Tiltable for providing up to 40% more power from each panel. Several manufactures are also doing solar pre-wire kits, but make sure to verify how much power the pre-wire kit can handle. Our GoPower! pre-wire kit that Fleetwood is using has 10 gauge cable that can handle our beefy system. Product Cost – $611.00 each panel = $3,671.94 Install Cost – $2,200.00 22 hrs of labor billed (includes our Outback Solar Controller too) Pricey and does not include the Hybrid inverter but wow what a solar setup for off the grid power. ​

I would like to hear some thoughts on this as well. I have a Residential frig and I DO NOT have any outside access to back of the frig. It took me and a few calls to even figure out where the ice maker valve was to turn it on to get water to the ice maker. (it is under the kitchen sink) The line from the valve to the frig is probably 2 to 3 feet and I don't see any way to disconnect it nor do I really want to be pulling a line apart every time I want to winterize. I do have a low point drain and would assume (right or wrong) that is intended to get all the water out of my lines for cold storage. I am not sure if I should close the valve(ice maker water valve, what about the water in the line to the ice maker) and hook up air to the city water line and blow low pressure air thru the entire system or just add some antifreeze and pump it thru the entire coach. I hadn't thought about this but I have a whole coach water filter too, so do I need to isolate it or remove the filter? I am pretty sure I don't want antifreeze in my filter.

Just for reference its www.gonewiththewynns.com --- they have been fulltime RV'ing for quite a while now and are on their 4th MH. They did a special deal with Fleetwood and are "testing' the new 2016 Fleetwood Bounder 35K Gas. The DP was a Fleetwood excursion and they had nothing but praise for both the coach and Fleetwood. Did they have problems yes of course, did everything fit perfectly, no but overall it was a good coach and that is why they partnered with Fleetwood on the test drive of the new Bounder. They just completed a two month Alaska trip in the bounder and overall had very few problems with a very challenging distance and varied terrain. I think they are very good with their perspective on just everyday RV life and how they see it. They aren't perfect and tell you what they like and dislike from their perspective on a motorhome. Is Fleetwood the greatest RV manufacturer out there? No but unless you step up to the million dollar foretravel or similar you aren't going to find much better IMHO. I would love to have a big Monaco but 600K plus is a bit out of my range LOL. I have almost 4200 miles on my new bounder and have had it only 2 months, so far I have had no issues that cause me to be concerned over the life of the coach. I am presently having front and rear sway bars and a steering stabilizer installed and have a weekend trip planned end of month. Any manufacturer can have a bad coach and I feel for the people that have that happen. I think the newer Fleetwood's are using some of the better manufacturing techniques on the market and the construction of my bounder is very sound. I also agree you only see many the bad post and not the thousands that have little to no problems. I hope you get your RV repaired satisfactorily and agree with the poster to stay on Fleetwood, I think they will work with you and get you at least mostly satisfied on your coach. Good Luck

So where would you suggest for repair and/or upgrade modifications? I would think that every CW is not the same and like all franchised businesses some are good and some not so good. I am very hesitant to take my RV to any repair facility unless it was a immediate need and would prefer to have techs and staff that deal with RV's handle my needs. One of the reasons I purchased my Bounder was the availability of the FORD chassis and engine work at decent labor prices. I cannot drive to the factory every time I need a upgrade or repair done, at the same time I am not going to take it to the local Firestone facility to have something like a sway bar and steering stabilizer installed. SO what is the best way to search/evaluate business that can handle the size and complications of a large RV vehicle? If i live anywhere near Lazy Days in Tampa I would go there, their work bays are large, well trained, and accessible, yes it might cost a bit more but i know my coach would be properly cared for, unfortunately a 1200 mile trip one way for repairs is not practical.

Thanks Ray, That is what I am reading into it as well by all the great post and literature I have on the ATS. Also my voltage appears to be dropping to around 108 volts on the compressor draw. I think Rich is right and a heavy gauge extension cord would supply the required voltage. I did go back and look at my set up and I am on a 20 AMP breaker from my house, so it should actually carry one A/C unit running to keep the coach a bit cooler. I never see more than 18AMP on my panel in the short time the compressor will run but the voltage drop is pretty significant at the EMS. Obviously running my generator in a storage situation was not an option as a long term power solution and I was just new trying to get a handle on how exactly I want to store my coach during none use periods. The EMS and Inverter set up is pretty amazing and making sure I am in the right configuration to keep my batteries and coach in the best setup as possible while i am not using it is my over all goal. I have read in depth on the new Lithium batteries and when my Manufacture's set up has run its useful life spaN will probably switch the house battery set up completely out for them. Since at the present I am not looking at a lot of boondocking I am not looking at adding an AGS or solar set up . Thank you all for the great response, it has been well worth the membership already!!!

Rich, My answers are in blue I hope ..... I am still trying to figure out how you are posting my comment in your reply LOL The current reading is correct, now take a look at the line voltage. I have a feeling it is in the area of 112 volts and just on the line where the EMS is sensing a total power requirement just a little over what is being supplied. ----You are correct I am seeing right at 112 volts. Question - When you use the 15 amp outlet are you using an adapter between the outlet and the 50 amp cable; or a extension cord? -- I am presently using a 50 AMP to 30 AMP to 15 AMP and extension cord from 15 AMP house outlet for shore power. The cord needs to be 12 Gage wire-better if it is 10 Gage. I'll have to check my extension cord gauge but it is a heavy cord. The voltage drop in the cord can put you below the required current / voltage combination. You could try to start the AC unit after dark when the line voltage would be higher and see it it starts. Also, try connecting to a 20 amp outlet. Not available but I am seriously thinking of having an electrician come out in the spring and install a 30 AMP exterior outlet just so I can have good shore power during storage times.

Rich, Yes, it is on my ATS panel in the coach which is part of the EMS system for the New 2016 Bounder. According to the manual it is an Intelletics management system, I have been on line to their web site but under "ATS" they don't appear to have a info page or manual with fault codes. I am not sure it is even a fault, reading on the EMS it appears to be prioritizing the single A/C unit on this power configuration. The A/C will momentarily kick on and the fan runs, as soon as the condenser kicks in it will shut off and wait about 2 to 3 minutes then try to come on again. I have watched the load at the ATS and it indicates about 14-16 AMPS which the 120volt -15 AMP shore supply should be able to handle. I am not tripping my GFIC on my house side and am insuring no other load is present on that power outlet. From just what i found it would appear that the EMS is shutting the system down to prevent electrical damage to the A/C and that means all is working correctly. I just have this message that says "singlePath Delay" on the ATS screen when I go to scroll thru my loads and amps pull on L1 and L2 status. My coach is extremely hot in the front half during the day and i am just a little concerned about the high heat inside when it is in storage mode. I have my MAXXFAN's set to kick on at 86 degrees and one is IN and the other is OUT to pull air thru the coach. It appears they are keeping the heat down in the MID to Rear area (where they are primarily) but the front half is running 100+ during the late afternoon P.S. I do not have an AGS system installed at this time; however, even if i did it would be deactivated in storage mode.

Any one have a clue what singlepath Delay means on my ATS while running off 15AMP shore power?

Thanks Rich, I have read all that, but what I am seeing is when I unplug from my current 15 AMP shore power to keep my Frig, Microwave clock and maxxFans powered and running everything is off. I open my Frig and no power, so either it is not switching or the search mode is too high to see the loss of the AMP I am pulling. I look at my ATS panel and see I am only pulling about 2 to 3 AMPs most the time on shore power so maybe that is why. It never sees a big enough draw to switch to inverter. This causes me to loose my Frig which is the biggest concern. Like I said above I noticed this while driving as well. I will check my setting again and thank you very much for the welcome and the knowledge. I think I am pretty good with electronics and power but actually owning your own RV there is still a lot of learning on all the operation of the unit.