NavyDad89

I would look for someone in the Resort Office, preferably sales or other managerial personel, for suggestions. Here, in Florida, when we purchased a park model on leased property we did temporary financing with a local financial office (read that as Bank) that had worked with the owners of the Resort and other purchasers prior to us. I am sure it helped that we had already established an account at that institution to simplify access to cash as we needed it prior to making the park model purchase. We added a Florida Room and storage area later with cash on hand.

I suggest checking http://Www.rvparkreviews.com for user park reviews on parks near the towns or cities you are thinking of being near and then contacting each park you find interesting to check availability. January's might be somewhat crowded except for any effect caused by the present economy. The central Florida parks here where we have wintered for 5 years are usually filled by now but are not this year.

We replaced the Sharp in our 2004 HR Endeavor with a GE Profile about 4 years ago. Needed to change out the rear mounting plate and also shim the plate out from wall about 3/4" to compensate for the GE door hinging on the left side rather than having panel on the left side as the Sharp did. The door hit on the cabinet side panel prior to the shim being installed and did not allow the door to open more than half way. Performance of the GE Profile was a major improvement over the Sharp for all types of cooking and I would make that swap again in a heartbeat. At that time, parts were available for the Sharp but it was out for repairs (different problems) twice in about 10 months and then failed again about 6 months after the second repair and went for parts for another unit in a friend's Endeavor.

Herman is correct, in that your trailblazer does not have a steering lock so you should turn off the ignition and remove the key. I towed an '03 GMC Envoy (identical to 4 wd trailblazer) for 5 years and never had a dead battery except for one time (the battery had a dead cell) and I used a Roadmaster Evenbrake in the Envoy. Even with the brake using battery power to recharge the reserve air for brake application, I never drained the battery below it's ability to start the car. I did, however, not leave the car attached more than 2 days of towing without unplugging the EvenBrake from the power point inside the car while stopped for the night. Afer two days of towing, I always at least started the Envoy and let it run for a whle even if I had not disconnected the tow bar. Since you do not have a brake system that uses battery power for braking and even if your charge wire is not working at all, you should not be having a problem unless your battery is going bad or you have a corroded battery cable connection. Since I never used a charge line from coach to toad I can't advise but I think Herman's suggestion for checking fuses on both ends of the charge line and then testing voltage on the charge line while the coach is running is very good. Ed

I found the following link to an RV outside entertainment center that appears to be like the one on our former coach. This was a 2004 HR Endeavor and I expect the same one was used on the Simba units. Perhaps this will give you a place to start looking for a replacement door for yours. http://www.b2loud.com/items/item201.htm Another place I would try for information would be any local RV body repair shop with a good reputation with insurance companies.

The convertors installed on the HR coaches that I owned looked similar, if not exactly, like the ones available most everywhere. About 3" square and 3/4" thick with the wires coming from two opposite sides for connection to the 3 wire stop/signal wire coach circuit and the 2 wire for the towed unit.

I have owned 3 different HR coaches over the years (none the Vacationer model so that could be a bit different) and all had the light convertor wired into the circuits and mounted up behind the rear bumper within a foot or so of the receiver hitch. If you follow the wire harness backwards from the female connector mounted at the hitch you should find the convertor mounted to the frame somewhere in the area. One of the units I owned (a 1998 Endeavor) had the convertor simply wire tied on top of the hitch receiver cross brace. The first HR I purchased was a 1993 on a Ford F-53 chassis with a tag axle and I purchased a convertor to install to hook up a tow dolly and when I crawled under with my tools to start installation and started tracing the harness backwards for a good spot to make the mounting and wire installation, I was quite surprised to find a convertor already in place right where I had determined to be a good spot. It was fastened in the corner of the left frame rail and the rear frame crossmember. The other 2 HR coaches were diesel pushers and had the convertors mounted on the hitch receiver to the left of the center. I believe you will find yours (assuming it was factory installed) in a similar location.

Perhaps a clearer idea of your definition of Boondocking would get you some helpful comments. I'm not certain if you are looking for free overnight stops or places to spend a few days without the hustle and bustle of some campgrounds. I'm not sure, but I think you are asking about places to park without the luxury of hookups for a few days of peace and quiet at a reasonable cost. If that is the case, Bill's suggestions are great. I would also suggest looking at the National Park Service and any State Park websites as well as the Corps of Engineers to see what's available in the areas you plan to visit.

The following statement from MSN Autos pretty much covers the question you posed. " When GM was forced into bankruptcy in 2009, it shuttered Saturn after a failed attempt to sell it to the Penske Automotive Group."

Count me as not one who considers what someone decides is good for their interests as "setting the trend" nearly as much as a wise decision - "for them." We downsized about a year and a half ago from a 40' four slide unit because it was way too big for the use we want from an RV today as compared to when we "full timed." We seriously looked at the Roadtrek and several other B class units until we found they were just a bit too cramped "for us." Our choice was a 30' class A with two slides because it gave us far more outside storage, larger (more functional for us) bath - kitchen - and most important for us - seperate sleeping area so if one is asleep the other can move about and not disturb the one snoring (err sleeping). This 30' unit drives as well, fits where we want to stay/stop and was quite comfortable for a 2 month extended trip last spring. We carry less in the outside storage than we used to and have storage room available when friends with a B or C go with us for their excess items they find no room in their rig to take along on the trip. I guess downsizing is a trend for some while upsizing is a trend for others just as RVing, itself, is a new trend for some and quitting the RV life is also a trend for some others. I remember the trend towards working for 40 or so years so one could retire comfortably but I see other trends for the working class today. Some trend towards finding a better job (or any job) to support their family. I even see a trend toward finding some way to make a living while living in an RV and travelling wherever you wish, but I'm not sure just how big or encompassing any of these trends actually are. I'm just happy we all have the freedom to do what we wish as long as we can still afford the costs, both in money and well-being.

Have you checked to be certain that the TV/ANTENNA/CABLE/SAT selector box has been set for each location to the cable input? It sounds to me that you may have last used the front and outside TVs to view with input from the antenna or satellite (providing you have that available) and did not press the buttons to change to cable input. On our 2004 HR coach that switchbox was a winneguard and was located in the cabinet to the right of the front TV. Good Luck

Even the manufacturer's assurances that their skid roller as built can support the weight of "any diesel pusher" I'm pretty sure the hitch assy mounted on "most" will not survive the entire rear weight of the RV sitting on the roller. On the other hand, this would eliminate the problem of the hitch dragging in the future!

I seriously doubt that you expect anyone from GE Appliances to respond here so I took the liberty to spend a couple of minutes to find the following link to help you find a service center to help in your quest to find an authorized repair station on your route. I had to do a similar search when our Sharp Convection died twice in less than a year while we were full timing a few years ago. http://repair.geappliances.com/

You did not comment on the chassis battery voltage while you were having the problem, so I am not certain but it sounds like the chassis batteries were not charged during the time your coach sat idle. When we full timed in one of our former coaches, the chassis batteries were not charged while hooked to shore power and ran down over the months we were parked in Florida. I also had to start the engine with the house/chassis battery connect switch and had the engine quit when I released that switch as soon as the engine started just as you describe. I believe that you needed to hold in the connect switch long enough for the engine run generator to put enough charge into the chassis batteries for them to have enough voltage to keep the engine operating. (at least 5 minutes) I solved my problem by keeping a battery minder hooked to the chassis batteries any time that the coach was on shore power for longer than a couple of weeks. This happened on that coach even after I had installed a new pair of batteries and cleaned and made certain that all cables were clean and tight on both ends so I'm confident that this was a similar problem that you encountered since your coach is a similar year model on a similar chassis to what I had at the time.

While we were full timers, I had most of my medications transferred to a chain pharmacy so that I could get refills pretty much wherever we were located. I'm thinking that Walgreen's, CVS, andWalmart are all pretty much everywhere, while grocery pharmacies such as Publix, Winn Dixie, Kroger, etc might be more regional. I also had success using Medco Mail order with internet access for prescription refills - I simply changed the "ship to" address each time I reordered my 3 month prescriptions. With a bit of consideration on where to transfer your wife's prescriptions, the ability to transfer only once (if that is true) would no longer be a consideration for you. Changing which pharmacy you pick up the meds is not the same as transferring to to a new pharmacy. In my case, it was far easier getting my medication refills than it was, sometimes, getting back to my physician or rheumatoligist <sp> when I needed new prescriptions.