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Here is my response from Cummins on the over run on startup. "It sounds like you did the normal process with the priming for the filter change. It may be just a fluke. However, if you really want to get to the root of it (with out fault codes), you would need to get it to a shop and have them run a diagnostic." https://locator.cummins.com Thank you for contacting Cummins. Steve Cummins Care Representative [SR#: 1-74210452344] If you have additional questions please feel free to respond to our support staff by e-mailing care@cummins.com or by calling 1-800-CUMMINS (1-800-286-6467) within the U.S. Additional calling options for outside the U.S. are provided on our website. When contacting us, please refer to the SR (1-74210452344) number listed above, if applicable. Visit us at www.cummins.com or www.cumminsengines.com Not real technical answer. Jim

What caused the fuel separator to loose it's prime? Jim

Don't pick on Bill, he's a nice guy!!!

I would check the push to reset breakers on the inverter to see if one of them are tripped. Jim

Can't believe that three weeks at 1/4 tanks will cause a problem. Jim

We just got home last week from the coast and we use the coach at least monthly. I normally fill it up on the return trip home, but our route didn't take us by any high volume fuel stops. My personal daily drivers have been diesel rigs since 1984 (VW Rabbit was the first one, just gave it to my nephew) and the only bad fuel experience came from a mom and pop convenience store. Thanks for the reminder. Jim

Good Morning, thanks for all of the response. I did remove the filters to look at the seals and they looked OK, however I will perform a more thorough inspection today. I plan on checking the primary water separator first, since it is on the suction side of the lift pump. Don't think I will spend much effort until I get to town and get some diesel fuel to at least get it filled to a half of tank. Leaving for Hawaii on Tuesday for short break. My last trip was on Washington coast was planning on fill up in Oregon on my next outing, it's $.30 a gallon cheaper. I sent a request to Cummins on the over run issue. Jim ,

The accelerator is electric, I have started the rig several times since the 2 events where it accelerated to the 2200 rpm limiter and it hasn't repeated. I have sent Cummins Support with the information describing the event, hope to get a response will share with response with the form. I'm going to change the water separator filter tomorrow to see it that is where I'm getting air in the fuel system. The problem only started when I changed both fuel filters yesterday. Jim

I found a diagram of the fuel system for a coach from a previous post on the form. Jim

My rig is stored in my shop, and in SW Washington it been in the 50-60 days and only frost a couple of mornings. The fuel tank in lower than I normally let it get, it's just less than 1/4 tank. I need to check the routing of the fuel lines, the fuel line colors have always been a mystery to me, but since I have never had any problems with the fuel system I have never dug into it. The water separator filter has yellow fuel lines on both the inlet and the discharge and they look like PEX tubing, the particulate filter fuel lines look like black neoprene. I would have thought the water/separator would be plumbed directly to the particulate filter, but that's not the case because they are side by side and the hosed from both filter disappear in the chassis frame. Any have a diagram of the fuel system on a 04 Holiday Rambler Endeavor PDQ? Thanks, Jim

Just completing changing both fuel filters on MH with Cummins ISC 8.3 engine. I have owned the coach for 7 years and have previously replace the filters annually without any issues. Cycled the on/off the switch several times to initiated the lift pump, engine started, stumbled a couple of times then smoothed out. This is the same results as seen on previous filter changes, so assumed that I was good to go. Couple days later decided that I would try to see how it started, cranked engine no go, cycled on/off switch several times to initiate lift pump, engine started and smoothed right out. A week passed before I tried to start it again, It finally did start but more cranking than normal. Took it for a 25 mile drive, thinking that any air in the system would work its way out after running longer and under load, ran fine no signs of lost performance. Let the rig set for an hour or so and retried starting, same results as previous, more cranking than normal to start. Removed filters one at a time and found fuel level in both filters to be down about 1.5" from top of filters and signs of foaming in water/separator filter. Filled both filters filled and reinstalled. Cycled on/off switch several time and cranked engine and it immediately started, however the engine immediately revved to 2200 RPM and stayed there, I shut engine down. Restarted engine with same results engine started immediately and accelerated to 2200 RPM, shut it down. When the engine was running at 2200 RPM, I made sure the accelerator pedal was in corrects idle position and it was. I restarted the engine again and all seems OK, engine started immediately and idled at 600 RPM and ran smooth and accelerator is responsive. I plan on letting it sit for a few hours to see how it starts. Anyone have an exclamation for the fuel filters not being full after a 25 mile trip and for the engine acceleration to 2200 RPM? I'm no rookie to diesel rigs, been driven and maintaining them for over 30 years. (VW Rabbit, Dodge Cummins, Chev Duramax, Cummins MH Jim

The reservoir is mounted in the passenger side rear compartment close to where you check the engine oil on my 04 Endeavor, I assume yours is in the same place. Jim

Rayin, Thanks for the response. Jim

Make sure you used bleach that doesn't contain any detergents. I made that mistake and it too for ever to get the suds out of the system. I used hydrogen peroxide instead of bleach the last time. Jim

Has the belt been checked to see if it is tight? Jim

You can purchase the LEDs by the roll at Amzon and cut it to length to meet your needs. It's the same type you described with 3M tape. They also have the connectors to connect the LED strips to the existing switch. I had 12 of the 2 tube florescent lights, I replaces all of the for less than $30, I put 4 full length strips in each fixture. Jim

Thanks for the complement, I perform the maintenance/repairs on my vehicles. I have developed check lists for all maintenance intervals and keep details records of as found conditions, repairs and parts used. This is a carry over from my 50 year career in the maintenance/operation of large rotating equipment associated with hydroelectric power houses and dams. I don't recommend this approach for everyone. It's important to take the time to educated yourself on the systems and equipment that you are operating and maintaining before attempting these tasks. Do not attempt to inspect or repair without these skills or proper tools. Jim

Rick, I edited my previous post to correct the part number for the original air chamber it was a Heldax T 16, not the T20 I originally posted. My motor is a 2004 Holiday Rambler Endeavor 40'. The chassis is a Roadmaster 8R8R chassis. Jim

The Haldex SC 16 is the replacement for T 16 and they come with rod cut to length with yoke installed. Jim

Travel was found to be 1.375", with in specs, self adjusters lubricated annually or 5K miles.

Contacted Heldex technical support this AM. Was told that the travel alert is NOT resettable. Even thou the travel on mine was with allowable travel limit, I was advised to replace the air chamber anytime that orange the travel alert is visible. There alert is an orange plastic sleeve that is on the operating rod, when in the normal position it isn't visible because it stored within the chamber housing. A malfunction within the air chamber and/or over travel will cause the spring loaded travel alert slide down the operating rod and it will be visible. Hope this info is helpful to others. On my way to town to get a replacement. Jim

During the annual inspection/maintenance I found that the orange travel alert was activated on the front left brake. The air chamber is a Heldix T16, max. stroke 2.25" with a max allowed travel of 1.75", the actual travel was measured at 1.375". I measured the right front brake and found travel to be 1.375", the same as the left front. Based on my finding it appears that the auto slack adjusters are performing as designed and are within DOT specification. It is my assumption that for some reason the exposed orange travel alert has malfunctioned. I have tried to reposition the orange sleeve with no success. Please advise if anyone know how to reset the travel alert. If it is determined that it is not resettable I plan on replacing the air chamber. Thank for your responses. Jim

Placing inline fuses doesn't say much for their design. One would expect something better for what we pay for the rigs. Jim

Thanks for the reply, it's sure rewarding when you can do you own repairs. Jim

Attached is the Onan Quite Diesel service manual Jim 981-0522_Onan_HDKA_(spec_A-M)_Diesel_RV_Genset_Service_manual_(06-2010).pdf