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Atwood Water Heater works great on Gas but not on elect. No tripped CB, Cant find a reset button for elect anywhere. Could it just be the elect element bad...too old lay down in the closet to change element... Any other troubleshooting hints? for 2014 Discovery 40g.

I have an Atwood tankless water heater (model OD-5001CW) with a strange problem. All of a sudden, it quit heating water. With water flowing, I could hear the igniter clicking but it didn’t ignite. In troubleshooting. I took the pressure regulator off the hose. Still nothing. I then opened the pressure relief valve on the water heater and it instantly lit. Pressure relief valve closed, no ignition. Pressure relief valve open, ignites immediately. Any thoughts as to next steps/resolution would be appreciated.

Was at the storage lot where I store the rv today. I turned the gas on to have hot water. When I left I turned everything off, water pump, electric store switch, inverter. etc. I get home, an hour away and about an hour later I'm thinking "did I turn the gas switch off?" I think I did but I am not 100% sure, now it's driving me nuts. With store switch on, no electric and water off is their any danger in the hot water gas switch being on? Am I going to be driving back out there in the morning?

Hi Folks, I drive a 2010 Winnebago Vista 30W...Class A. My water heater...fueled with propane...no longer produces hot water. It gets lukewarm at best. I recently cleaned the connectors so that the pilot would come on...but only lukewarm water is produced. Could someone tell me how to troubleshoot the problem? Thanks...Nan Wright

We have a Itasca Suncruiser 2001 and we believe there is a problem with the check valve on the outflow. can anyone tell us if there is some kind of access to the check valve without having to pull out the whole water heater tank? Yes there is water going in and the heater works electrically and via gas just no flow to the faucets inside the coach. We are under the impression there is a check valve inline on the top side of the heater tank for the outflow to prevent blowback when winterizing. We are FT so we do not need to winterize and are willing to just remove the check valve pieces.Thanks in advance for any knowledge about this.

We've developed a strange electrical issue in our 2007 Tiffin Phaeton. I noticed when the awning is extended and I turn off the electric water heater switch (since we're billed for electric), the awning retracts. We've had the RV 2 1/2 years and this just started. Now I've noticed that when the water heater cycles on/off on its own, the awning also retracts. Some wiring worn through and shorting? Both controls are in the same control display above the driver, so wires are all in the same general location.

When I close the door to the unit the air fuel mixture changes. Adjusting mixture doesn't help.

Hello, Has anybody had any problems with your water heater? When I push the electric or propane the red light comes at the control panel but no spark at the water heater. Put a electric jumper on the propane switch and got that to fire but no power from the board to the valve release. Please help?

Hello. This past weekend the wife and I had the opportunity to take the coach out for a few days. Since we had not been out in a few weeks we had turned the LP tank off so we didn’t have any possibility of a gas leak. Well, I ended up having a little issue that I haven’t seen on the forums lately. When I arrived and got everything set up I turned on the LP Gas and tried to lite the stove and water heater. But nothing would lite. I went out to check that I had Gas, the gauge on the tank shows almost full. I loosened the vapor valve just to check that the gauge was still functioning and gas came out of the valve. I again went in to try the stove, opened all 3 burners using a long lighter this time and still no fire. It’s like I have gas in the tank but no flow. I checked that the valve was open I even went as far as to leave it half way just to make sure. I turned the valve to close let it sit about 10 or 15 min then reopened it still nothing. Is it possible that the regulator has frozen up or what else could it be? Thanks, Bryan King 1999 American Tradition 40TVS Lakeland, Florida

A problem has developed in our water heater, and I'm debating the best course to take. We have an Atwood LP/Electric 6-gallon water heater, model number GC6AA-9E. A few days ago the electric 'side' of the unit stopped heating. It happened all at once, not a slow degradation of the heating capability. The LP heating continues to work well. Trouble shooting so far: Circuit breaker reset Cleaned some electrical connections in the outside heater access Drain and flush hot water tank The unit does not have an anode, so I don't have replacing that as a possibility. The unit appears to have a single thermostat, and since the LP heater is working, that should not be a cause. Having said that, I have read that older Atwood units have two thermostats (LP and Electrical each being unique). I don 't know where 'older' begins, or how the unit would look if it had two thermostats. Our coach is a 2001 model, and this looks like the original unit. The next step I have in mind is replacing the heating element. The element is on the back side of the tank (inside of the coach). Replacing the element will require either partially disassembling some drawer mounting frames for access, or removing the heater from the outside. Here are my questions: 1) Is there any other trouble-shooting I should perform before tackling to the electrode? 2) Is it fairly easy to pull the unit (and unhook/reconnect all the LP/water/electrical connections), or 3) Should I try to change the electrode with the tank in place, if possible? All suggestions/thoughts appreciated! [reposted from the tank discussion section]

I have a 2005 Allegro Bay. On last trip water would not heat beyond warm. Later that evening water was very hot and I thought problem was over. Next morning water running cold again. Several hours later could get hot water followed by cold only later in evening. All of this took place heating or trying to heat with electric, when I switched to propane all ran well. Any ideas of what I should look for? Any help greatly appreciated.

My water heater overflow valve spews water when I turn on the how water switch (gas). The problem goes away if I shut off the water source and stop heating, and just use tap water. What should I be looking for or replacing? Thanks, Jim

I just de-winterized my little Minnie Winnie (2001; Ford E350 chassis) last weekend. As happened last year, the water heater drain plug will not tighten sufficiently with just my little hands, and I don't have a tool (what should I buy?) to get the thing close any tighter. It is currently about 3/4 of the way in and it has a butterfly on the end to permit flushing. As soon as I filled the water tank and fired up the water pump, the water just poured out of the water heater! No wonder I was getting very little water flow out of the house sinks. After I figured out that happened, I shut off the bypass to the water heater and fired up the water pump again. Water flowed just fine from both sinks, but the shower head is still dead in the water (pardon the pun!). No water pressure coming out of there at all. What can I do now, shy of taking my little coach back to the repair place? They sold me the water heater drain plug; last year, I got it to fit well enough that it just barely leaked. I did consider getting some plumber putty to see if that would help the situation. Should I just buy another one and pray it fits better? My last drain plug was a dream as far as fitting, but it had an anode on it, which I don't need. Should I get another one? Thanks for any advice you can provide, fellow FMCAers!!! Peggy

We are considering buying a Berkshire 390 FL motorhome. It has everything we want and is reasonably priced for a diesel. But, there is always a but, a concern has come up over Forest River's use of the Girard tankless hot water heater. I am familiar with tankless systems used in the home but this is the first time I have seen one in a motorhome. My main question centers on the Girard user manual instructions which say that in order to regulate the temperature of the water you turn on the hot water only and regulate temperature by reducing the flow. It is explicit in saying that you should not turn on the cold water tap, but just turn the hot water flow up and down to regulate the temperature. Now I could be wrong but my experience with water taps is that when you turn them down you get less water. Knowing that showers in rv's do not generally supply a great deal of water to begin with it seems that turning it down will leave less water to rinse with. Does anyone have experience with the Girard tankless system? Does anyone have any thoughts? Can anyone see why using the cold water tap to regulate temperature would not work? tony

I recently acquired a used 31-foot 1995 Rexhall Aerbus with 79K miles). I have since spent several thousands of dollars (deferred maintenance). New radiator, tires, shocks, full tuneup, all fluids flushed and refilled, awning, window seals, and many more small items that we have fixed and forgotten. What I haven't gotten done are two things. Our furnace doesn't ignite and I have to manually have to light our hot water heater. These are both luxury items, since our last RV was a small Toyota-based Itasca. Do any of you reading this have any wisdom that you might care to share about finicky furnaces or how to get our water heater to self ignite? Thanks, Dave