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Hello Does anyone have any ideas as to how to find a mechanic that can work on my Safari Serengeti which is built on a Magnum chassis? Both Safari and Magnum are out of businesstock, and we have an ABS light on the dash lit up.

When I wired up my brake controller a couple of years ago I ran into an issue. The coach wiring was commanding trailer brakes with foot off the brake and no trailer brakes with foot on the brakes. I called Monaco and did not get an answer and finally found a wiring diagram on the Internet search. In the driver side front compartment a relay was wired wrong. I just stumble upon a tech bulletin that Monaco didn't share with me. http://www.usgear.cc/utb_mon060605.htm

I was pulling out my hair, suffering sporatic blown flasher fuses, on a recent trip. Then, the flasher unit itself failed. It was a maiden voyage with our new-to-us Patriot Thunder, our guests rolled their eyes every time I slid open the window to signal with my arm, got honked at, pulled into a truck stop to change yet another set of fuses. Finally, I unplugged the dolly lights and didn't blow another fuse. Today, after three hours of diagnostics and disassembling the dolly electrical system, I finally spotted the culprit: two tiny bites on a pair of wires going through a brand-new finder to the light assembly bolted to the outside. Yes, after catastrophic blowouts on BOTH sides of the dolly due to inferior OEM tires, I had to install new fenders. They arrive prewired, are simply mounted and plugged in. Turns out, at the factory the person who installed the lights put so much pressure on the wiring where it passes through the 1/4" hole that the insulation was severed inside of 2,000 miles of use. Of course, none of the pass-throughs are engineered with a 20 cent rubber grommet to protect the wiring; so, this kind of failure was bound to be repeated, had I not wrapped the wires in thick rubber tape. It seems dollies are designed to sell, rather than to last.

Well, I thought I had cracked the engine brake issue I reported on with the replacement of a relay. That turned out to be a fluke it was not the fix the engine brake failed after 38 miles. I had a dual fix, sort of, when I replaced the relay; I had also been grubbing around under the dash and had seen that the harness to the accelerator pedal was taut at full forward pedal slide extension. (Towards the driver) I tried to correct that and also checked the plug and wires for any problems. So the coach went in for its annual service and the engine brake was fine. The mechanic took her to the local government test station (over here in the UK after a vehicle is 3 years old it has an annual test) and did 20 miles each way without an issue on the engine brake. I collected her and was nearly home and the engine brake stopped working!!!!!! I drove straight back to the garage. They looked at the accelerator connections and declared them OK. Various other checks revealed a Cummins service bulletin on Engine Brake wiring in the rocker box. A replacement harness and special clips were available for a solution to possible chaffing causing an intermittent fault. Well we all thought that was it. I picked her up yesterday and once again was nearly home, and sitting at some lights, thought that the pedal slide was too close so moved it to suit me. Turned down the hill and the engine brake was not working!!! I stopped and fiddled with the plug and wires to the accelerator. The engine brake returned!! So it must be in this plug/wiring or switch. What I find difficult is that I have no issues with the throttle itself so which of the 6 wires has an effect on the engine brake? Anyone have any thoughts or help here? Michael 2008 CC Allure Cummins ISL 425