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interior electrical system shuts down as soon as i disconnect from shore power. First thought it was the 15 year old 2000w Magnum ME modified sine wave inverter. batteries tested 12.6 volts but magnum panel showed low voltage fault. could not retract jacks or return slides without having engine on. even had trouble starting generator but thru boost got it fired up and made it home. had to run generator while driving to power residential refrigerator. when got home and plugged into shore power, all was again normal until after a few days of fully charging to float charge. again as soon as i disconnected from shore power, all power shut down. came back on as soon as reconnected. Replaced inverter with new MS 2012 and everything worked fine on start up. after an hour or so charging batteries to float, turned of shore power and power immediately shut down again, both 12v and 110v. panel indicated low batteries at 4.5 volts. I checked batteries with multimeter and each tested at 6 volts individually and 12.5 in parallel but magnum panel still indicated low voltage and no power even after connecting to shore power. went back thru start up procedures, did reset on inverter but nothing changed. shutdown shore power and tried to start generator. even with boost took a while and would not stay on. plenty of fuel. started engine and after a few minutes, power came back on and seemed to be normal and batteries at 13.8v until shutting of engine. then no power. reconnected to shore power, no change. restarted engine and power came back on as before. this time i reconnected to shore power before shutting of engine. this time power stayed on. left system plugged into shore power but confident power will go down as soon as i drop shore power. 12 years ago i bypassed the salesmen switch, so no issue there. last year i added 400 watts of solar but added a cut off switch to isolate solar panels into charge controller and controller to batteries to avoid potential conflict with charging batteries from solar while on shore power or using generator. not sure that caused issues with ATS. any thoughts of trouble shooting power issues. 2007 HR Endeavor

Hello Everyone… I have a 2003 Ford F-53 RV I usually stay hooked up to shore power for 6 months, then leave the RV in storage for the other 6 months … So after 3 years of this schedule the chassis battery died even though I was hooked up for months , and now the deep cycle batteries are leaking .. (I did replace the starting battery ) What are my options in this case to increase the longevity of both the starting and house batteries? (Since the charging system is built in) disconnect from the shore power for few minutes every day? For few hours every week? Should I remove the negative terminal from the starting battery even when hooked to shore power? If so then how often? Take into consideration that my fridge and microwave work only when connected to shore power… I do not know much about how electric systems work so that is why I ask all these details to make sure I get it right

Forgive as this is long - but I wanted to give the details. We are having an issue with the batteries charging. I have a 2010 Fiesta 34B, purchased used last year, been working fine through the summer trips. Keep it attached to shore power with A/C in operation. Two weeks ago I noticed the A/C short cycling (about 30-60 seconds). Went inside to find dashboard radio flickering, all 12 volt lights were dim, etc. Immediately though the the converter/charger was not working. Opened the area behind the power center to access the converter. It was difficult to tell if it was functioning. I check the output with the multi-meter and the voltage was fluctuating all over the place. I checked the cost and ordered one to be delivered that Sunday. I immediately dug out the other chargers to see if I could bring the batteries back up. I left those chargers in place for the week and they appeared to recharge fully. I replaced the charger with the new one and hooked everything back up and removed the external chargers. I also checked every in-line fuse to make sure it was still good - no issues there. I left everything off for a few hours and checked the readout on the dash. They were at 13.68 and 13.56 about 4 hours later. I turned the refrigerator on and let it sit overnight. Yesterday afternoon the voltage was still hanging close to the 13.6, 13.5 range. This afternoon I checked the voltage and both are down to the 13.1 range. While I realize the resting voltage of a 12-volt is lower than this I don't recall it dropping off this much previously while being plugged in. Am I right in thinking something is still wrong? If so, any idea where to turn next? Is there some fuse I haven't though of? I appreciate any assistance you can provide. Thanks

In my coach I have a Magnum Energy ME2012 charger inverter with inside panel. Every so often I would glance at the readout of the panel and usually it maintained a charge of about 13.5v. I seen several charge rates but mostly at float charge. Today I saw a charge rate of 15.5v and 45 amps and the word equalization on the readout. As expected I checked the batteries and the house batteries are bubbling as they are being overcharged. I shut off the charger at the panel. I checked the owners manual and it has a one paragraph that states it is to break up deposits. I tried doing a soft factory reset to cancel as I don't like overcharging batteries but it continued when the charger is switched back on. It's still on after a couples of hours and I think way too long. I'm thinking about shutting it down overnight for it is already causing corrosion on the terminals. I don't want them to catch fire but they don't feel hot yet. Anybody else have problems like this? I have 4 6v CG2200P 220ah batteries wired to give 12v. They are only 1 1/2 years old so should not be bad. I'm thinking of doing a hard reset but that means removing all power. Setup seems correct for flooded batteries set to 400 amp hours.

Hello Group, I apologize for the questions. This is my first post and out of desperation. I have a 2000 Dutch Star 38' Cat Engine on a Freightliner Chassis. Newer Lyght LPT-50 Transfer Switch, Freedom 458 20D Heart Combi inverter/charger with the Heart Interface Remote Control Panel. My problem is: Batteries will not charge from inverter/charger on 50AMP shore power or Generator. They will charge from running the engine via the alternator. Last night batteries were at 7.8 volts and running engine 15 minutes brought them up to 12.8. This morning 12 hours later they were at 11.7 with only the systems I don't know about running. I shut everything down except I did not put it in storage mode. The remote control panel says all is ok. When hooked to shore power control panel far right LED says 50 amps incoming breaker, on far left AC IN LED on, charger light on. On the front of inverter green charge light is on. Checked all circuit breakers and no apparent problem there. Battery state shows correctly on panel. Could the huge fuse between the charger/inverter be blown ?? How would I check it ? That fuse is between the charger and battery bank ( Four Newer- 2 year old Crown 6V in series ) . This fuse is behind the batteries bolted to the wall directly behind the Batteries. I have cleaned most of the battery terminals particularly the one tied to the charger. They are all tight and clean. I thought I may have had a bad battery cell, but now I'm not so sure. Any suggestions would really be appreciated. Thanks, Don Mohney

I have a 1999 Four Winds Windsport RV. The coach batteries are not being charged when I'm connected to shore power. I've verified this by measuring the voltage at the battery terminals when on shore power. There is no change in voltage when I connect to shore power. I have checked the 120VAC to 12VDC inverter that I assume is supposed to charge the coach batteries. It produces 13.5 VDC (with no load) and powers all of the 12V components in the RV. The RV uses an Intellitec battery disconnect system. Inside the door are two switches to disconnect the chassis and coach batteries (see photo below). Also below photos of the Intellic disconnect relays inside the power distribution box that's in the engine compartment. I'm an mechanical engineer and I have spent a huge amount of time trying to fix this. So I will be immensely grateful if anyone has suggestions. Best regards, Frank