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Found 7 results

  1. Curious what others here do in terms of maintaining their slide seals (rubber extrusions that are attached to and seat between slide and coach body). Do you periodically apply something to your slide seals? if yes, what product do you use and how frequently do you use it?
  2. We have a 2005 Country Coach Intrigue 530. Our back two slides will not extend. The yellow light shows that it is fine to extend but nothing happens when we push the switch. We can hear the motor when we hit the retract switch though. Any ideas how to troubleshoot or who would work on this? The front two slides work fine. We are currently at the FMCA Rally in Chandler, Arizona . Thank you Mike and Amber Grubb
  3. We are on our way to San Diego and in need of several repairs - mostly our slides/awnings and a bit of body work. Would like recommendations for honest shop that does good work and, hopefully, at a reasonable price. We live in our Class A 2008 Monaco Camelot 42 ft. Can anyone give us a hand? Thanks very much Paul and Donna
  4. I'm doing some homework before we change the flooring in our 2008 Winnebago Journey 39Z. We want to replace the carpet and peel & stick vinyl squares from the front of the coach throughout, including the kitchen and bathroom (carpet to be replaced in the bedroom and on the slides later). Other threads on this topic are mostly with carpet, linoleum, and manufactured floating floors, not tile. We found a porcelain tile we are considering and have a few questions: What should the maximum thickness of the tile be? Is using synthetic grout a good idea? Will our slide work properly coming over the areas we would like to tile without damage to the coach or flooring? Should we use a runner rug under the slide when pulling in the slide to protect the new flooring? Is the extra weight an issue for this coach?
  5. Lippert components makes a lot of parts for our RVs, including retracting steps, leveling jacks, and slides. I needed a motor for my step; Lipperts cost is $198.08, plus shipping. The same part, complete with Lippert's label on it, is sold under the Stromberg Carlso name for $145.95; the source I found included shipping. Although Lippert correctly told me a new motor would solve my problem, when I asked them were I could get the part they failed to mention it was available from other sources under the Stromberg Carlson name. Check it out before you buy.
  6. I am new to FMCA and this is my first post to the Blog. I just returned from a 3 month trip and took my 38ft 2006 Fleetwood Expedition to the RV shop for some maintenance. I included a carpet cleaning as part of the work order. The day after getting the RV back (after 2 weeks) we went on a trip. When we pull out the slides there was a large deep gouge in the vinyl floor caused by one of the rollers digging in the floor. During our summer trip of extending and retracting the slides multiple times I never had any damage. I plan to discuss this with the owner of the shop but need some advise on what could have caused this damage. I believe they must have done something wrong when they extended the slides (didn't level the unit, move the unit while slides were extended, or whatever). I suspect they will say that the slide was out of adjustment. Any input will be helpful. Thanks
  7. Months ago, I first noticed that the corner trim in the bathroom had a little gap, at the bottom. This is the inside corner strip behind the toilet, forward outboard. After carefully inserting a brad or two to lock it down, it came back up. Then, came the discovery that the trim-to-wall gap varied with slide extension! To make a long story brief, the passenger-side slideout pushes the coach's wall slightly (about 1/16") outward upon reaching full extension! So, today's project is to align the slide. This is not as hard as it sounds, verifying slideout alignment is something any owner, regardless of sex, creed, age or mechanical abilities can do. The first step: go to http://www.powergearus.com/ and find the appropriate manual. Then, I extended the slideout to an arbitrary point (about three inches) and put a rule to the edge. Sure enough, the spacing was different between the front and back edges, but not in a way that made sense. THEN, I put the rule under the slideout and got a surprise. The forward rail led the aft rail on extension by a slight amount. 'Turns out, that is the space between the gear teeth below, on the drive shaft. Today, I'll slip off that gear, nudge the room in a tad to make it perfectly parallel with the coach side, and reinstall the gear. The results will be listed in an addendum below. I undid one of the two gears by releasing tension and sliding it aft, off the track. Then, KayCee gave short bursts in/out until the front and back were the exact same distance from the side of the coach. Then, the gear was slid back into place. While the results are vastly improved, I'll bring it inboard one notch in the morning, so the room is exactly parallel to the body, on retraction. At present, the bottom contacts the side slightly after the top, exerts assymetrical pressure on the wall. Voila! I removed a tilt-bin in the kitchen, and laid eyes on the area where the slideout presses to the wall, only to discover a large wiring bundle had migrated to be PINCHED between the two. Okay, this fails on two counts. First, repeatedly crushing 110VAC romex is baaad thing. Second, I'd say the same thing about distorting exterior walls. So, using the technique of measured consensus with the other slides, I rigged this one to track simultaneously and to be as vertical as possible in the retracted position. It is a little bothersome that the absolute margin for adjustment is reached shortly prior to a perfectly parallel pre-tightening seal gap is achieved; but, that might be due to factory error or structural shifting. The slide is within an eight of an inch of perfection, which is within tolerances.
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