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Showing results for tags 'slide'.
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Just when I thought everything was fixed on the coach, something else breaks. DW comes to me and asked why isn't the bedroom slide working? I go inside the coach, press the button, the motor runs but no go. I removed the mattress and a few panels underneath and see the gearbox turning but nothing else. Of course since the slide is in there is no way for me to reach the motor gearbox assembly cause I'm too fat to get under. I took pictures to try to identified the slide motor and shaft assemblies. This is looking from the top with the mattress board uo and a few panels removed. I have to get the motor and gear assembly to the opening at this end of the trace to work on it. Of course it's at the other end of the track. This is a 18 to 1 motor it runs and turns the gearcase. This is the gearcase and the removable nut and hairpin. That nut turns but nothing happens beyond it so me turning that nut will not put the slide in or out. This is the shaft to the other side of the gear that's not turning. This shaft goes through the track, gear and another 90 degree gearbox. I'm thinking I need to removed the hairpin and nut from gearbox and install on this shaft to crank out the slide. Did I say I'm too fat to get under there. I need to get the slide out to work on it and DW and I too weak to push it.
Curious what others here do in terms of maintaining their slide seals (rubber extrusions that are attached to and seat between slide and coach body). Do you periodically apply something to your slide seals? if yes, what product do you use and how frequently do you use it?
Have a 2002 Journey with two slides. Purchased early 2013, Have replaced the HWH pump motor approximately six months ago. Bought brand new motor, relays and switch from HWH and had dealer put it on. Now I am stuck again in a campground and can't retract my slides or level the coach. Haven't had time to trouble shoot yet. I would like to know if other Journey owners are having problems with the HWH leveler and slide systems installed on their Journeys and what they did to correct problem.
Months ago, I first noticed that the corner trim in the bathroom had a little gap, at the bottom. This is the inside corner strip behind the toilet, forward outboard. After carefully inserting a brad or two to lock it down, it came back up. Then, came the discovery that the trim-to-wall gap varied with slide extension! To make a long story brief, the passenger-side slideout pushes the coach's wall slightly (about 1/16") outward upon reaching full extension! So, today's project is to align the slide. This is not as hard as it sounds, verifying slideout alignment is something any owner, regardless of sex, creed, age or mechanical abilities can do. The first step: go to http://www.powergearus.com/ and find the appropriate manual. Then, I extended the slideout to an arbitrary point (about three inches) and put a rule to the edge. Sure enough, the spacing was different between the front and back edges, but not in a way that made sense. THEN, I put the rule under the slideout and got a surprise. The forward rail led the aft rail on extension by a slight amount. 'Turns out, that is the space between the gear teeth below, on the drive shaft. Today, I'll slip off that gear, nudge the room in a tad to make it perfectly parallel with the coach side, and reinstall the gear. The results will be listed in an addendum below. I undid one of the two gears by releasing tension and sliding it aft, off the track. Then, KayCee gave short bursts in/out until the front and back were the exact same distance from the side of the coach. Then, the gear was slid back into place. While the results are vastly improved, I'll bring it inboard one notch in the morning, so the room is exactly parallel to the body, on retraction. At present, the bottom contacts the side slightly after the top, exerts assymetrical pressure on the wall. Voila! I removed a tilt-bin in the kitchen, and laid eyes on the area where the slideout presses to the wall, only to discover a large wiring bundle had migrated to be PINCHED between the two. Okay, this fails on two counts. First, repeatedly crushing 110VAC romex is baaad thing. Second, I'd say the same thing about distorting exterior walls. So, using the technique of measured consensus with the other slides, I rigged this one to track simultaneously and to be as vertical as possible in the retracted position. It is a little bothersome that the absolute margin for adjustment is reached shortly prior to a perfectly parallel pre-tightening seal gap is achieved; but, that might be due to factory error or structural shifting. The slide is within an eight of an inch of perfection, which is within tolerances.