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LeeB7

Norcold At My Wits End

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I will not bore you with telling you the whole story prier, because I had what I thought was a good starting point. My coach is a 2004 Meridian Itasca 34H. Fridge is a 2100 4 door....... I have only had the coach for a little over 2yrs....... Yes I have looked into installing a residential fridge but for now I am short on cash to do that

I had a new Norcold prevent box installed at a local dealer and the Fridge worked on AC and LP there at the lot. They ran it on AC and said it worked fine. When I picked it up it was on LP and read 37*... Yay I thought they had it fixed. Got it home plugged it in and turned it on the next day with fridge on Auto and it came on using AC, after a few hours it cooled off so I turned it off and waited a couple days. With the MH unplugged and fridge on Auto I turned it on and it started on LP after a couple hours it shut off and I got the dreaded No-Co flashing. So I turned it off and waited and day, tried it again on LP and got the same No-Co after a couple hours. I shut it off and tried it again and after about a minute got the No-Co....

My question is will the ARPrv Device help? By that I mean shut the fridge off while on LP and reset before it goes into No-Co.......

I store the coach at home under cover and perfectly level.........

 

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You will have to reset the control board after the second no-cool display.  You can find the instruction on the internet.  You will have to remove the cover from the circuit board, only issue is limited access.

 

Jim

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Since it's stored at home, can you plug it in to shore power or is it on shore power?  You only mention NoCold on LP, have you tried Electric?

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I think you meant the Norcold 1200.

Here is a procedure for the reset: Norcold Reset Procedure

The Prevent Box (Black Box) could have tripped. Some have been know to be other that perfect and they will be replaced a no charge.

One way to reset the black box is with a strong magnet. Place it on the box to make the magnetic reed switch inside reset. Only do this if you see no evidence of over heating of the stack. Typically there will be yellow residue somewhere up the stack. If you see that you need replacement.

The other way is to unplug the wires going to the black box and from the black box to the control board. Just follow the wires and plug directly back into the control board. That will eliminate the black box and narrow the problem down to the black box.

All this is performed at your own risk. I assume no responsibility.

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If the new black box has tripped you will have no 12 v power to the refrigerator and the display on the refrigerator will not work.

Jim

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Thank You for your responses..... I promise I am being very careful and ALWAYS on the look out for the Yellow Powder and Ammonia smell..

It looks like I am at the point of doing a reset on the board, I tried the magnet trick with no results...... I have been in contact with the people from ARPrv.com and they suggested that the regulator could be bad meaning there is not enough pressure or the filter could be plugged..... This coming week I will be checking...

Like I said I am at my wits end and getting real close to starting the residential refrigerator install and taking this Norcold and use it as a ONE TIME BOAT ANCHOR

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LeeB7,

Not sure of your location,  but I have a Norcold 1200 that I will give to you.   Maybe between the two you can make one that would work.

 

Jim B

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Lee,

There is no end for the saga of the Never Cool 1200. The EPA has designate the 1200 as a bio hazard and can no longer be used as boat anchors. They are now having to make special locations in land fills for them. Most states are having problems finding them in isolated areas along country roads illegally dumped. They are stating that they would rather have old mattresses and couches than No Cool 1200ds.   :P   

Herman

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We went through pretty much the same sequence with our Norcold 1200 last year. Installed the ARPRV unit, replaced the circuit board, deleted the "black box"... and still kept having to reset the refrigerator when running on LP.

We received a lot of useful advice, most of it from members of this forum (thanks again to all!). We ended up going to JC Refrigeration in Shipshewana and they replaced our rusty old cooling unit along with the gas burner and (as long as they were in there) the electric heating elements. We kept our circuit board. Since then, no trouble! Turns out that the gas burner was probably the main culprit; it corroded and got clogged and then didn't provide enough heat, according to the techs at JC. For peace of mind we went with the full cooling-unit replacement since ours was pretty rusty.

We had considered a residential replacement, but decided that the flexibility of having both AC and LP operation, and not having to modify the cabinet work and electrical system in the coach, made the cooling-unit replacement option a better one for us.

--Tim C.

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11 hours ago, abyrd said:

LeeB7,

Not sure of your location,  but I have a Norcold 1200 that I will give to you.   Maybe between the two you can make one that would work.

 

Jim B

I am in the Central Valley of California and Hmmmmmmm.. Thanks but no thanks...... I have to try and figure out how do to my signature on here

3 hours ago, hermanmullins said:

Lee,

There is no end for the saga of the Never Cool 1200. The EPA has designate the 1200 as a bio hazard and can no longer be used as boat anchors. They are now having to make special locations in land fills for them. Most states are having problems finding them in isolated areas along country roads illegally dumped. They are stating that they would rather have old mattresses and couches than No Cool 1200ds.   :P   

Herman

Ha ha ha ha ha ha................ Maybe Napalm or C-4......

1 hour ago, tcolburn said:

We went through pretty much the same sequence with our Norcold 1200 last year. Installed the ARPRV unit, replaced the circuit board, deleted the "black box"... and still kept having to reset the refrigerator when running on LP.

We received a lot of useful advice, most of it from members of this forum (thanks again to all!). We ended up going to JC Refrigeration in Shipshewana and they replaced our rusty old cooling unit along with the gas burner and (as long as they were in there) the electric heating elements. We kept our circuit board. Since then, no trouble! Turns out that the gas burner was probably the main culprit; it corroded and got clogged and then didn't provide enough heat, according to the techs at JC. For peace of mind we went with the full cooling-unit replacement since ours was pretty rusty.

We had considered a residential replacement, but decided that the flexibility of having both AC and LP operation, and not having to modify the cabinet work and electrical system in the coach, made the cooling-unit replacement option a better one for us.

--Tim C.

I thought about the Amish Cooling unit..... Still might....... My burner apears to be in good shape I cleaned it the other day with 91% rubbing alcohol and it cleaned up pretty good...... I am right now in contact with Paul with ARPrv and him and I are working on getting mine to where it will work.

 

Thanks everyone......... LeeB7

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Just now, wolfe10 said:

Cute,

But, please keep in mind that many are viewing on small screens and light colors are very hard to see.

You are right I can barely read the yellow on my big screen.:o

Bill

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