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talgutbir

Slide Out Electrical Issue

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Don't let me confuse the situation, I was only thinking outside the box. If the outer slide is working, then that's that. Only need to concentrate on the inner slide. Rich has very good points.

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After reviewing your findings, I believe the problem lies either in the magnet switch or circuit that senses the outer slide in the extended position.  I have based this on the assumption that this magnetic switch is the device that initiates the extension of the inter slide. If the problem doesn't originate in this circuit, then the next place to look is for a hardware or software failure in the control module.

It difficult to trouble without a schematic or logics of the control module.

Jim

 

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Rich,

I actually just tried your test and closed the slides, disconnected the light blue (and any other wires there). The relay still HOT!!! the only thing right now that takes the power off the relay is the magnet in the inner slide.

I looked at your link but I am thinking its not the switch... Not sure if I am getting closer here.

We are on our way from Denver, CO to Madison, WI in a week.  Any idea of a GOOD RV electronic guy along the way?? I am running out of solutions here.

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Agreed Jim! Thanks for your thoughts, with only a few bread crumbs it is hard to rebuild the slice of bread ! Talgutbir is so close, I can almost taste it and I give hie allot a credit for hinging in there.

Feel that the issue is electrical, and not the logic board for now. The relay that is running warm when it should be cool. Getting power and the power control is 110 mode with the 10 amp fuses. Just need to find out why the 2 relays on the board that revers the power going to the motor are not toggling and the reed relay is my primary target for now.

Just got to see if removing the connector with the light blue wire stops the relay from getting warm. ???? 

Rich.

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28 minutes ago, DickandLois said:

Agreed Jim! Thanks for your thoughts, with only a few bread crumbs it is hard to rebuild the slice of bread ! Talgutbir is so close, I can almost taste it and I give hie allot a credit for hinging in there.

Feel that the issue is electrical, and not the logic board for now. The relay that is running warm when it should be cool. Getting power and the power control is 110 mode with the 10 amp fuses. Just need to find out why the 2 relays on the board that revers the power going to the motor are not toggling and the reed relay is my primary target for now.

Just got to see if removing the connector with the light blue wire stops the relay from getting warm. ???? 

Rich.

Rich,

The logic board actually reverse the power. When I put a meter on the black and white wires (that supply power to the motor) I get 12v when I press the S/O out button and I get -12v (reverse) when I push the IN button.  As I said in my previous post, once the slides are closed, the relay stays HOT no matter what wires I disconnect from the Intellitec board.

I think the issue is somewhere between the 110 Intellitec board and the motor.

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27 minutes ago, talgutbir said:

Rich,

I actually just tried your test and closed the slides, disconnected the light blue (and any other wires there). The relay still HOT!!! the only thing right now that takes the power off the relay is the magnet in the inner slide.

I looked at your link but I am thinking its not the switch... Not sure if I am getting closer here.

We are on our way from Denver, CO to Madison, WI in a week.  Any idea of a GOOD RV electronic guy along the way?? I am running out of solutions here.

Did you take a picture of the inner magnet ? is that the picture of the Tyco unit? Can you turn off the motor with that magnet or do you use a different one?

Would love to fine the issue you have been a trouper !!!!! I'm Thinking the Lipper is in Mishawaka IN. Power Gear is located in Wisconsin.

possible link http://www.lci1.com/power-gear

Some of the other posters might have a good idea where you might get some help.

Rich.

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Rich,

Did you take a picture of the inner magnet ? YES, its the one I posted on page 1.

is that the picture of the Tyco unit? The TYCO is the relay. All 3 are not too far from the Intellitec board.  They are above the entrance door.

Can you turn off the motor with that magnet or do you use a different one?   The motor of the inner slide has current sensing unit so when the slide is fully extended or retracted and the current goes up the motor stops.

I am not sure Power Gear is the right place to go. I called them this AM and they said they don't deal with the Multiplex or Intellitec products.

 

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One of the older coach owners had to replace a control board to get a slide working properly, but your coach has a different set up and the control mod is not totally out of the picture. Like Jim mentioned.

I think the issue is somewhere between the 110 Intellitec board and the motor.???

That magnet, the one fastened to the edge of the opening?

Intellitic sells a system diagnostic system to test the data system. A call to them and who has purchased them and work on RV system might help find a certified shop !

http://www.intellitecsolutions.com/support/

Rich.

intellitec system test equipmennt.pdf

http://www.mikerobotics.com/Intellitec Storage/PDF/5300738.120.pdf

 

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1 hour ago, manholt said:

Talgutbir.

Do you have a Cummins engine?  There is a reason for my question!

Carl

Carl, a Cummings 500 HP is listed for the coach.

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Talgutbir. Put together this PDF file for your reference. The last picture in the file list the specifications and it looks like there are 2, 3 amp fuse in the mod. so, one would be under the cover. NOTE! If you remove the cover, please take a picture before you inadvertently reset the hard switches under the cover. They need to be set correctly !!!!

The unit can operate both in the ground or positive wiring configuration and those little switches set each connection to the required mode at every pin.

It is a quick file of the pictures you posted for quick reference, the picture of the Magnet is missing !

Rich

NOTE! if there is no internal 3 amp fuse installed - then the mod is setup for a negative / ground point controller.

  

Intellitec Control module system.pdf

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1 hour ago, DickandLois said:

Talgutbir. Put together this PDF file for your reference. The last picture in the file list the specifications and it looks like there are 2, 3 amp fuse in the mod. so, one would be under the cover. NOTE! If you remove the cover, please take a picture before you inadvertently reset the hard switches under the cover. They need to be set correctly !!!!

The unit can operate both in the ground or positive wiring configuration and those little switches set each connection to the required mode at every pin.

It is a quick file of the pictures you posted for quick reference, the picture of the Magnet is missing !

Rich

NOTE! if there is no internal 3 amp fuse installed - then the mod is setup for a negative / ground point controller.

  

Intellitec Control module system.pdf

Rich,  Thanks for the file!  Here is the picture of the open cover.  No fuse inside.

Open box module.jpg

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The fact that the voltage is not dropping when the innerslide is all the way in is the key as to why it will not go out without reversing the wiring. This means that either the magnetic switch is not engaging when it returns to home position, or is a bad switch, or the relay contacts are welded so that the voltage does not drop. One or three of the IC's (that's the long black  things with multiple legs) in the picture may have been damaged as a result. Again, MAY HAVE BEEN, not necessarily so. This is the assumption that I would be working from to correct the problem.

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Wow !!! Not what I expected for sure !

Things are not what they seam, This is a completely different board then the one described in the technical data  sheet. An I know that is the board because the connectors line up with the previous one.

The picture is of a logic control board, but it looks like they upgraded from the board they list the data for. So, I starting to look like this is a control module with Solid state relays. 

No viable damage and one would think if the was a problem with this board, you would see sighs of heat.

Rich.

Kay, posted thoughts regarding the reed sw as an issue yet and I tend to go with his thinking, so it looks like you can button up the board and consintrate on the system positioning sensor(s)

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1 hour ago, kaypsmith said:

The fact that the voltage is not dropping when the innerslide is all the way in is the key as to why it will not go out without reversing the wiring. This means that either the magnetic switch is not engaging when it returns to home position, or is a bad switch, or the relay contacts are welded so that the voltage does not drop. One or three of the IC's (that's the long black  things with multiple legs) in the picture may have been damaged as a result. Again, MAY HAVE BEEN, not necessarily so. This is the assumption that I would be working from to correct the problem.

I checked that the magnet is lined up well.  The fact that when I move the slide out from the magnet and than (and only than) the relay opens tells me that the magnet is lined up. When I tested the switch it showed the 12v just like the other two so not sure how to test it more.

If the relay contacts are welded, won't this mean that I will not hear the "click" when I take the power wire off of it?

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One important thing to add:

I do get +12v and -12v coming out of this box to the motor wires(Black and White wires) so I think it is reversing but somehow the signal is not getting to the motor.

Intellitac slide module.jpg

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I am still wondering what the brand name and model number is for the relay to check if it is a double pole, double throw relay. With all the info that you have provided I believe that there are IC's  on that module control board that have gone bad. I believe that what is supposed to happen is when the magnet engages and the relay opens that an electronic circuit is supposed to cause a reversal of the current flow, meaning that now you should see the polarity reversed coming out of the relay back to the motor. Not sure this is totally correct without electronic schematic. If you can see the slide as you stated that you can a very simple solution is use a simple momentary normally open  DP/DT switch wired in to take care of both in and out functions, only need to make sure that everyone knows to let go when fully extended or retracted. Your reply came while I was typing, so here is my next question, does the black go negative when the magnet is applied? If it does, then the out switch itself is malfunctioning.

Just a side note, in a DC circuit there is no common as you do have in an AC circuit.

 

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1 hour ago, talgutbir said:

One important thing to add:

I do get +12v and -12v coming out of this box to the motor wires(Black and White wires) so I think it is reversing but somehow the signal is not getting to the motor.

Intellitac slide module.jpg

Wiring diagram for the 00-00916-120 board

 

Board___00-00962-120_wiring.jpg

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If pin number 1 and number 2 are changing to 12 volts depending on what direction the slide is moving. This part of the system is working !

That means you move on to where the wire harness from 120 board go to, Power Gear board or another module before the signal reaches the hi current board. 

So if you can trace the 12 volts(lets say) from pin # to the power gear board and when you reverse the motor direction the point on the power board should go low and the same thing should happen for the wire at pin #2 to reverse the motor. It's voltage should change>

The reed switch should tell some board that the slide is in or out and power down the board when the current limiter level is reached.

Rich.

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I am trying to trace the wires but its not easy...

One question, if I apply no power to the motor and check the wires that's coming into the motor (with motor disconnected) with Ohm meter should it be an open circuit or closed?

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Was out and about for a few.. Regarding your question. Disconnecting the power connection from the motor direction control board will power down the Power gear control board, but there has to be a fuse or 2 on that power to supply 12 volts at 15 to 20 amps. So there will be a power connection on the board coming from the main 12 volt buss.

Thinking you would read a relay coil resistance between ground and the 12 volt power cable going to the Power gear board. Using the meter check for any voltage at the connector you remove first, no power then make a resistance reading. Repeat the process on the second wire next to the first one and see what you read.

All so could you post a picture or 2 of the power gear board and wright down any numbers if they are not readable to post.

Rich.

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