speck Report post Posted May 28, 2017 We have a 2011 Honda CR-V which just got all set up for towing with a Roadmaster Falcon 2 and the Invisibrake. Did the transmission procedure, just as a side note. Stopped after about 300 miles to perform the transmission procedure again (as is recommended) and the battery was dead. Got it jumped and did the procedure... Now I think I may have read something somewhere about pulling a fuse, but can't remember where I read it. Does anyone know if I can just disconnect the negative terminal on the battery? Concerned that maybe the transmission procedure may configure something in the computer and disconnecting the battery would cause any code to be lost and consequently there goes the transmission... Thanks is advance for any comments. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildebill308 Report post Posted May 28, 2017 I don't have a problem when towing. But I do start the car when we stop for lunch. Just make sure you are in the acc position and not in the run position. This is from your owners manual page 335. When towing your vehicle for long periods, remove the 7.5 A Accessory Radio fuse to reduce drain on battery. This fuse is located in the interior fuse box and is shown as number 34. Only remove the fuse after you have performed the transmission shifting procedure, and the key is in the ACCESSORY (I) position. Store the fuse in an obvious location (center tray, coin pockets, etc) as a reminder to re-install the fuse before driving the vehicle. I also make sure all of your HV-AC switches are off and the air selector is in recirculated position. This cuts down on the exhaust smell getting in from the coach. Be shure you follow the procedure EXACTLY of shifting into neutral from drive ONLY. Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cwswine Report post Posted May 29, 2017 I have a 2013 CRV and the battery would go dead in about 6 hours of towing but from day to day non towing it waas fine. Brought back to the installer and verified even with the fuse pulled I was getting some drain on the battery. He gave me choice on paying him by the hour to try to figure out what causing the drain or just run charge wire from the coach to the car battery. After getting the charge wire run I no longer have battery problems. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
saccarrappa Report post Posted May 30, 2017 I have a 2008 CRV and had chronic problems with battery drainage when towing with BrakeBudy Classic. This despite pulling the radio fuse and adding a 15 amp battery charger running from the RV. Pulling the radio fuse may cause loss of presets and require a code # (found in owners manual) entry with the radio buttons, The owners manual did NOT report that pulling that fuse also TURNS OFF THE POWER PORT on the dash that I needed for the BrakeBuddy. I believe that the daytime running lights drain more power than the turned off radio anyway. I have just put in a button switch on the dash in a fused wire plugged into the running light fuse site, which is is three slots over from the radio fuse and also 7.5 amp. I'm not aware of any other adverse effect of pulling these fuses. I was so frustrated with these issues that I bought a screw on/off connector that makes it easy to disconnect the battery, and am towing with magnetic "rabbit ears" ,from Harbor Freight, powered from the RV. Remember your ignition must be in ACC and the transmission in neutral before you disconnect the car battery. I have gleefully abandoned the Brake Buddy and just installed a Ready Brake surge brake system. I hope my battery issues with the CRV will be resolved. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hermanmullins Report post Posted May 30, 2017 Welcome to the Forum. Running a charge line to your battery will solve you battery discharging. As far to what fuses to pull someone else will know that answer. Again welcome. Herman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildebill308 Report post Posted May 30, 2017 3 hours ago, Saccarrappa said: I have a 2008 CRV and had chronic problems with battery drainage when towing with BrakeBudy Classic. This despite pulling the radio fuse and adding a 15 amp battery charger running from the RV. Pulling the radio fuse may cause loss of presets and require a code # (found in owners manual) entry with the radio buttons, The owners manual did NOT report that pulling that fuse also TURNS OFF THE POWER PORT on the dash that I needed for the BrakeBuddy. I believe that the daytime running lights drain more power than the turned off radio anyway. I have just put in a button switch on the dash in a fused wire plugged into the running light fuse site, which is is three slots over from the radio fuse and also 7.5 amp. I'm not aware of any other adverse effect of pulling these fuses. I was so frustrated with these issues that I bought a screw on/off connector that makes it easy to disconnect the battery, and am towing with magnetic "rabbit ears" ,from Harbor Freight, powered from the RV. Remember your ignition must be in ACC and the transmission in neutral before you disconnect the car battery. I have gleefully abandoned the Brake Buddy and just installed a Ready Brake surge brake system. I hope my battery issues with the CRV will be resolved. Welcome to the forum. If your daytime running lights are on your key is not in the right position. Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OLDMARINE Report post Posted May 31, 2017 + 1 , Bill Old Marine Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
speck Report post Posted June 7, 2017 Thanks to everyone and the suggestions and comments. Since this first trip was a short one, only a few stops, I just ended up jumping the battery, or putting the charger (which I purchased the 1st night out) on it. I read in my Invisabrake manual that if you turn on the running lights on the RV the Invisabrake is suppose to put a trickle charge on the battery...didn't work! I am going to do the fuse bypass switch thing and see how that works. I think the charge line idea is great too. On my Honda, when I shut the ignition off with the transmission in neutral, the key will only go to the accessory position, not to the off position. Again thanks for all the comments. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildebill308 Report post Posted June 7, 2017 1 hour ago, Speck said: Thanks to everyone and the suggestions and comments. Since this first trip was a short one, only a few stops, I just ended up jumping the battery, or putting the charger (which I purchased the 1st night out) on it. I read in my Invisabrake manual that if you turn on the running lights on the RV the Invisabrake is suppose to put a trickle charge on the battery...didn't work! I am going to do the fuse bypass switch thing and see how that works. I think the charge line idea is great too. On my Honda, when I shut the ignition off with the transmission in neutral, the key will only go to the accessory position, not to the off position. Again thanks for all the comments. If you're running lights are on you don't have the key in accessory. This will definitely drain your battery. Did you pull the fuse? Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vaparrothead Report post Posted June 7, 2017 We have a 2004 Honda CR-V with the Invisibrake. We had a fuse bypass/kill switch installed and have never had a problem with the battery draining. Here's something else to consider: the ignition key. Leaving the key in the ignition while you're stopped is just a little too tempting to would-be thieves who can disconnect the car, break in and drive away. We went to the Honda dealer and paid about $35 to have a key made that will do everything *except* start the car. Very inexpensive anti-theft device. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kaypsmith Report post Posted June 7, 2017 The valet key is a good idea, just don't forget and try to start the key three times, on most cars three times trying to start the car and the computer will lock all keys out until the computer is reset by a dealer. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hermanmullins Report post Posted June 7, 2017 Correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought the valet key was just for that, Valet Parking. You could lock you glove box and trunk when turning your vehicle to the valet, take your keys leaving just the valet key so the door could be locked and unlocked, and the engine started but nothing else could be unlocked. Herman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kaypsmith Report post Posted June 7, 2017 Last valet key that I had with a car was a PT Cruiser Chrysler product, the valet key would unlock the doors and start the engine three times. If it was used the fourth time, it or no other key would start the engine again until a dealer reset the computer, this cost me $275.00, all may not be like that, but it sure got my attention, hence the warning, I didn't like paying that fee is only reason for warning others, I guess that Chrysler thought if someone drove off with your car with the valet key and never returned it to you, might make an unhappy customer. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildebill308 Report post Posted June 7, 2017 9 hours ago, kaypsmith said: Last valet key that I had with a car was a PT Cruiser Chrysler product, the valet key would unlock the doors and start the engine three times. If it was used the fourth time, it or no other key would start the engine again until a dealer reset the computer, this cost me $275.00, all may not be like that, but it sure got my attention, hence the warning, I didn't like paying that fee is only reason for warning others, I guess that Chrysler thought if someone drove off with your car with the valet key and never returned it to you, might make an unhappy customer. Both Hondas I have came with a valet key. No apparent limit on usage. Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
