mikelangley Report post Posted November 6, 2017 Ok I am new to FMCA Been an RV owner for several years. Just purchased a 2006 coachman encore 40’ diesel. Just returned home from a trip tonight put my slides out and jacks. Plugged up to the house 110 as always to keep the new batteries charged. Water pump went out on the trip. Turned it on to see if had any life left. No luck. Went back in the coach to do some things and no 12v Power All the 110 Appliance’s are working but no lights and even the slides don’t work now. 12v dead. There is a battery kill switch in the entry and it seems not to work. It is the bottom switch in the picture. It just rocks back to one side when I press it. The battery light does nothing. It has always done that. I have checked all fuses and all are good. I have unplugged several time to make sure the conecton is good and it doesn’t solve the 12v issue. anyone have any ideas? I am curtain it is something simple I am missing. Thanks in advance for any help Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kaypsmith Report post Posted November 6, 2017 First things first, you said that you put the jacks down and the slides out, so apparently they worked this time. Then you checked the water pump to see if any life left, obviously not. So the 12 volt ceased working probably while checking the water pump, and the pump had already quit working while on the trip. You also stated that the batteries are new, how new, just installed just before parking the rig at home, or just before the trip? Have you checked the battery bank for voltage, if not that would be my starting point. If voltage 12 volts or above, then look for a solenoid, the rocker switch in the picture is not heavy duty enough be the actual disconnect, it will most likely be attached to a heavy duty solenoid which I suspect is not engaging for some reason. This is just starters, others will have more suggestions, but as stated, the above would be my starting point. Questions about the batteries were for determining if the batteries may have been incorrectly installed, or maybe even a connection there too loose, happy hunting, hope you find an answer soon. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikelangley Report post Posted November 6, 2017 54 minutes ago, Mikelangley said: Thanks for the reply Yes the 6 v batteries are less than 2 weeks old. All worked as always with the slides plenty of power to run all 3 out Do you think that the water pump may be the problem? Planning on changing it out right away with a like kind It sounded like it had gravel in it when it was working. There is a large selinode next to the chassis batteries But think it is for the all on battery start switch at the drivers seat. Think it may be the kill selinode? Is that where it would be located? Or under where The switch is. Thanks again Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kaypsmith Report post Posted November 6, 2017 A kill solenoid would most likely be for the chassis batteries and the chassis batteries do not power the inside lighting in most coaches. Sometimes the slides and leveling gear is attached to the chassis batteries, this is so that the engine must be running when retracting or extending, as they are high battery amp devices. The interior lights are almost always driven by the house batteries, meaning that the chassis batteries should not effect them. Do I think that the water pump is the problem with all 12 volt not working, no, but it may have blown a fuse that also is attached to a solenoid used to disconnect the coach (house) battery supply, and in that case is why that it should be tested hooked to an individual battery with a fused supply line. As stated, if the coach battery bank has current, then look for a large fuse or disconnect nearby the coach batteries. I would start at the bank with a VOM (volt ohm meter) and check every connection one at a time till I found an open circuit, fuse could be blown or a faulty solenoid or a wire burned into. Also look for a salesman switch, usually near the entry steps, I don't know where the panel in picture is, but if located near the entry, it probably will be what a lot of refer to as a salesman switch, they are placed there to help dealers not having to individually turn everything in the coach off and on for show purposes, and have wreaked havoc for owners when it got turned off accidently and the owner wasn't aware that it existed. Missed one question, yes the house solenoid could be located under the switch in the picture, but not necessiarilly so, I would suspect closer to the battery bank. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted November 6, 2017 The picture shows a Warning and says that your chassis battery disconnect is in the rear engine compartment door! That's close to the chassis battery/ies. Like Kay, I would expect the same for the house batteries, in that compartment, along with the solenoid. Gravel sound in water pump....Do you have water in tank? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikelangley Report post Posted November 6, 2017 Manholt, kay yes and the strainer had dirty water in it. My guess the pump is gone. Yes there are no fuses blown that I have found I have checked them all. I am ordering a new pump and will put it in and see if the pump is locked up and draining the house batteries the slides work only when the switch to the engine is off. jacks only work when the engine switch is on. I am going to check the new house batteries tonight with a meter and make sure they are not dead. my inverter/charger is acting up. I think the water pump is pulling everything down. may disconnect the water pump and see if everything resets. Thoughts? The salesman switch doesn't act like it is working. like I said, when you push the switch it doesn't hold and comes back to the starting position. normally id would engage a solenoid or something and switch the coach batteries off. That is how my other coaches worked right? Thank you for your help. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kaypsmith Report post Posted November 6, 2017 If you have a battery switch, hold it on, and have someone try setting the battery switch to on. The juice should flow in both directions, this would allow a solenoid to set if the coach battery is dead, don't leave it in this position except for a short test, that would drain your chassis batteries. If I had your concerns about the pump, I would disconnect it, then start a charging program to the house batteries. A VOM is a must if you own a motorhome. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikelangley Report post Posted November 6, 2017 Ok going to try disconnect the pump tonight. Order new one. Will keep you posted Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hermanmullins Report post Posted November 7, 2017 I bought a Surflow Pump from the strangest place, WalMart. It was a 3.5 GPM @ 55 psi. If I remember correctly it was $79.95 and was delivered to the store. I will post the Part number when I find the paper work. Works like a dream. Herman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hermanmullins Report post Posted November 7, 2017 Mike, The Part Number of the Shurflow Pump is 4008-101-E85 and cost $65.53. It can be ordered on line and shipped to your store for pick up with no shipping cost. Herman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikelangley Report post Posted November 7, 2017 OK I disconnected the call last night. The problem is still exists. I have it plugged up to shore power but there's no current going through the EMS panel. Inverter in charger shows charging the batteries. It is the odd that in the microwave and coffee pot are on 110 but the refrigerator not on at all. The refrigerator will not turn on. LP or 110 I think when I plugged up the shore power something tripped in the electrical system but I cannot find any breakers or fuses that are tripped. I am lost right now. I have a call into the magnum energy company to see what I need to do to troubleshoot this issue. Thank you all for your helpI am lost right now. I have a call into the magnum energy company to see what I need to do to troubleshoot this issue. I have located 2 Solenoids next to the house batteries. I have attached pictures of both. I'm wondering if one or both are the solenoids related to the salesman switch in the front of the coach. Any thoughts? Thank you all for your help. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickandlois Report post Posted November 7, 2017 Mike, Thinking you might have an open circuit breaker at the Magnum inverter or the system setup got changed and the inverter is no longer in bypass or charging? Could you post the Make, Model and Year of the coach ? Also, add the model of the inverter for the group. Rich. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikelangley Report post Posted November 7, 2017 Thanks for your response. I spent time on the phone this morning with the Magnum Technical Support. I went through troubleshooting with the inverter and the inverter and the charger both are working properly. His advice was to check and see if 12 V was going into the fuse box for the coach. I'll check that in there is not 12 V going to the fuse box. So the problem is in between the fuse box and the house batteries. The house batteries are charged and have 12 V on them. I am thinking it might be the Killswitch solenoid. If you could look at the two pictures I have attached in my message and give me some advice as to whether the small Solenoid I have a 2006 coachman Encore 40 foot diesel Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kaypsmith Report post Posted November 7, 2017 Mike, looking at the pictures, I would use a jumper from the battery to the small wire on the side of the solenoid, if it engages, the solenoid is ok, and you will need to check the salesman switch to find out if 12 volts exist there. If the solenoid does not respond, then the solenoid is bad. Also, what does the device at the top say it is? I can't read it from the photo. It appears to be a fuse link, does both sides of this read 12 + volts to ground. On to another thought, the salesman switch may not be a 12v, but probably is a ground disconnect to avoid a parasitic drain on the battery. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kaypsmith Report post Posted November 7, 2017 Mike, I tried to PM you, but the system will not allow that to happen. click on my avatar and try to send me one. Kay Also if the fridge is a standard camper fridge, it will not work without 12 volts to the control board, needs this for lp and 110 volts. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildebill308 Report post Posted November 7, 2017 I think you have a problem with 12V as all the things that aren't working need 12V for the controls. See if you have power going to the Battery control box. if not work back from there. Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kaypsmith Report post Posted November 8, 2017 The thing a ma bob at top of the photo with two large post appears to be Ferraz Shawmut high amp fuse. It is after the solenoid, that is the one on the bottom with 4 large wires and 3 small white wires attached. Turn on the salesman switch then use your meter, set to DC volts, now hold the black lead to the ground post on the battery, and the red lead to the large lug with only one large wire, if the battery bank is good, you should read 12+ volts. Now move the red lead to the large lug with 3 wires attached, if you still read 12+ volts, the solenoid is good, if no reading, jump the positive post of your battery to the small nut holding 2 wires, if you read 12+ volts now on the large lug with 3 wires, if you can now read 12+ volts there, the solenoid is good and you will need to trace to the salesman switch. If you read 12+ volts on the first part of the test where you touched to the large post with 3 wires, then check the other end of the large Red wire at the post where it is attached, if 12+ volts there then move the lead over to the other large post and check for voltage, if no voltage then that fuse is blown. This type of fuse will blow if there has been any arching in the 12 volt system, yours appears to be a 300 amp. Good luck with testing, all of these test is only 12 volts so that is relatively safe, just don't be standing a puddle of water, if you do, you may feel a slight tingle if you touch a bare spot. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted November 8, 2017 A0T300 is the number on the first solenoid Kay. As for the 2nd, I would like to know what the wire with the green flap goes to? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kaypsmith Report post Posted November 8, 2017 A0t300 is not a solenoid, it is a fuse, how do I know, has one large wire in, one large out, no trigger (small) wire to activate a solenoid, plus I enlarged the picture enough to read the writing on the device. Wire with green flap not important, as it will not work either if the solenoid is not working. The test that I described is very simple and should always be the starting point to troubleshoot a non working solenoid or fuse. I always start at the source then work my way out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted November 8, 2017 Kay. Your right, my bad. Your post came as I finished mine....missed the solenoid (too much wine?)! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Asdrace Report post Posted November 9, 2017 After looking at the picture on the fuse, I see a small burnt spot on the upper right side. I would most certainly verify the fuse is good. As stated earlier use a vom or even a test light to check for power on both sides (connections) in reference to ground. If there is power on both sides, move on the problem is not here. After looking at the pic again, I see the burnt spot is on the power side from the relay, so if a short was applied there it mare than likely would not blow the fuse. But test it to be sure you have power going into the coach. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
