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Jerald W Koenig

Installing Samsung RF-18 refrigerator in 2007 Monaco Knight

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Just put in an RF-20 in that <-- Safari Cheetah   Neither the RF-18 or the 20 will fit through the door.  They took out the drivers window.

It will generally fit in Norcold1200 width but may need cabinet work, check the height yourself, we took out the propane furnace below the Norcold to get it to a user friendly height.

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The RF-18 went thru the door on my 2008 Fleetwood Bounder diesel. i had to disconnect the door catch so the door would swing full open. The Nocold went out the same door. The delivery guys from either Lowes or Home Depot (old timers memory) removed the doors from the Samsung, brought in thru the entry door, re-installed the doors and set it in the opening for me and yes they received a nice tip. I did remove the driver and passenger seats for better access.

I suggest you do some measuring for height consideration.

 

 

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Jerald,

Welcome to the Forum.

I put an RF-18 Samsung in my Monaco Dynasty through the front door. I did have to remove the Passenger seat. I removed the freezer drawer and both door and all hinges. I then made a very light weight frame the same dimensions of the RF-18 and maneuvered it through the door. I did have to remove the door stop at the top of the door and open it all the way back.  

Now that being said, I must clarify the I had earlier cut down my TV cabinet.  I cut it back my center mounted TV cabinet back 7".  I believe on you Knight your furnace is under you refrigerator and you will have a height issue. Width is not a problem in replacing the NeverCool 1200 but height is.

Herman

 

 

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Home Depot installers brought my RF18 through the door on my 2008 Safari Cheetah (pretty much a Knight with a few extras).  Moved both seats out of the way and covered the corners of the dash with heavy cardboard (just in case).   All the installers had to do was remove the RF18 doors and put them back on after it was in the coach.  No big deal.

I too have a furnace under the fridge.  Required lowering the fridge platform down closer to the furnace and trimming about 2 inches of the wood work at the top of the opening.  Was able to keep the existing louvered furnace cover without modification.

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I put our RF-18 down at floor level.(No furnace) I had space at the top (about 8") and made a cabinet door that hinged up. There I repositioned my electric and water. I can change the water filter with no problem. I secured the  unit to a board with recesses in it for the adjustable front feet and with "L" at the top. Tht board at the bottom was to support the unit because it protruded out about 3" .

Herman

 

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12 hours ago, Jerald W Koenig said:

Any suggestions on how to secure the fridge when it is traveling down the road, so it doesn't move around?

I used a short piece of aluminum angle on each side of the fridge, short metal screws into the sides of the fridge cabinet, then a single stainless steel screw into the cabinetry on each side. It doesn't take a long sheet metal screw, all you need to do is penetrate the outside skin, just barely into the insulation. Or you could be creative and use an L bracket at floor, then secure it at the top with another. Also be sure that you screw the front level legs down to the floor, they are rubber tipped, if yours are not, crutch tips can be acquired at most drug stores, they help prevent movement.

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I was able to use two 1 1/2” wide aluminum “bar” about 6” long at the top. Screwed into cabinet, didn’t screw into frig. It captured the cabinet edge by about 3/8”. In back I used an el bracket on both sides. Screwed into floor and edge of frig. Used the adjustable legs in front to level. Hasn’t moved in 4 years. 

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I made a metal framework for the fridge to sit on.  Then added a sheet metal floor.  1/4" air gap above the heater.  Does not get hot at all.

Floor is open on the sides fofridge_frame.JPG.5eaba1b3c408e51c3cd140e9c568bce5.JPGfridge_floor.JPG.447eb2e07ed6498055c2012e6d9e365f.JPGr added air flow through the louvered front cover below the fridge.

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Here is the finished installation.  Used plumbers tape from the two top door hinge brackets run across the top and down the back to a turn buckle secured to the framework for the floor.  Much stronger than putting a couple of lag bolts through the fridge sheet metal bottom.

fridge_finished.JPG.9f79521b8d452210a843ae6fd2e9f55b.JPG

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Clearance needed is 1" to combustible material.  Air intake on the heater is both on the front top and right side.  So losing 3/4" separation is not much of an issue as far as heater operation is concerned.

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For those who might be interested here is how I bolted down the front and eliminated the plastic cover for the feet. You can also see the plastic trim on the wood frame.  Makes for a finished look.

 

fridge_feet.JPG.8ddb3fe7a443c345a5516eb06484cde1.JPG

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I have never had a problem with 2 or 3 door residential, opening, no matter how rough the road.  Keep the seal (gasket) clean! :D

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