hermanmullins Report post Posted December 26, 2018 1 hour ago, rsbilledwards said: Boatman1955 welcome to the forum and your new hobby, The simplest way to assure no more leaks assuming the vent covers are sound... Pull all the existing sealant up from the base and reinstall. Once you get it started it will come up pretty easily. Bill, how have you found to be the best way to remove and clean the old sealant? "Once you get it started it will come up pretty easily." Didn't find this to be too true, but I did get it off. I have found that I have scraped off the old, cleaned with mineral spirits and applied the new Daycron 10 (? spelling) Self Leveling sealant. This seems to work. Any better solution? Herman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rayin Report post Posted December 26, 2018 20 hours ago, Boatman1955 said: Hi Erniee, Yes, I accidentally discovered that it does have basement air a few months ago before it got cold. It does work but won't know how well until it warms up a bit. I read somewhere that one owner felt the basement air was marginal in hot climates. I guess that's why someone added a roof unit to help the basement air on this coach. The basement air conditioner is also a heat pump! If you wish, PM me and I'll send you links to removing, repairing, and re-installing your Coleman unit. It is basically built like a household unit with 2 compressors inside instead of 1, to make it a 24,000btu unit. Any Air conditioner repairman can service it once you have the links to the instructions for removal and re-installation. Some are saying the Coleman unit is no longer available -not true. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rsbilledwards Report post Posted December 26, 2018 Herman, the term is relative to age...I am ten years younger than you are, so easier. It is a job of patience and will. I can get the sealant up from around a 14 X 14 in about thirty minutes and about 90 percent in one shot. I used a big blunt screwdriver to work the outer edge all around. Then I cut through at a corner and all the way around at the outer edge of the flange and work with the tool till it begins to come up. It came off the flange plastic easier than the roof. Once I can get a hold of it then I pull straight up and work the sealant at the release point pulling only enough to keep a strain on the material as it comes up. Once you get it to this point it comes up pretty steadily, do not pull so hard as to allow it to pull apart and mostly in one piece. I know if you were standing there it would be completely different. Where the sealant releases on it's own it will be shiny white clean. The remainder is just pickin at and a little acetone. Acetone leaves no residue of an kind and the surface ready to reseal. Mineral spirits leaves a film so wipe with acetone after use. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boatman1955 Report post Posted December 27, 2018 On 12/25/2018 at 8:45 PM, kaypsmith said: On one coach, we cut through both fiberglass skin and luan plywood, replaced the plywood with just the right thickness plywood so that it was flush with the outer skin, did a rough sand job on the entire sidewall that was pretty badly affected, then applied new skin over the entire side. The results were very good with a new coat of paint over the entire coach (white) then added some vinyl graphics. Thanks for responding to all of us, looking forward to seeing a great looking coach from you in the future. May the coming year be the best for all! Hi Kaypsmith, I have a few photos of my friends Renegade that I helped him re skin almost 2 years ago. As you can see the aluminum was badly oxidized with many holes. I don't think I will need to do all of my Alfa but will take a closer look and make a decision. In any event that will not be a priority as the other issues are more important. Happy New Year!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hermanmullins Report post Posted December 27, 2018 Second picture looks smoooooth. Quite an undertaking. Keep us up to date on your coach. Herman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boatman1955 Report post Posted December 27, 2018 2 hours ago, hermanmullins said: Second picture looks smoooooth. Quite an undertaking. Keep us up to date on your coach. Herman Thanks for your support and interest! Happy New Year! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boatman1955 Report post Posted December 27, 2018 On 12/26/2018 at 2:33 PM, RayIN said: The basement air conditioner is also a heat pump! If you wish, PM me and I'll send you links to removing, repairing, and re-installing your Coleman unit. It is basically built like a household unit with 2 compressors inside instead of 1, to make it a 24,000btu unit. Any Air conditioner repairman can service it once you have the links to the instructions for removal and re-installation. Some are saying the Coleman unit is no longer available -not true. Hi RayIN, I did not know the basement AC unit was also a heat pump, Thanks for that! My e-mail address is < boatsferu@aol.com > and I would love to receive any information that you'd care to send me! I would think between both units working correctly it should cool nicely in any weather. Happy New Year! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rayin Report post Posted December 27, 2018 Go HERE, then click on his links-W/pictures showing exactly how he removed, repaired, replaced his Coleman-Mach basement air conditioner. He is the ultimate authority IMO for these basement units. He's helped many owners with their units, and has a long list of where and how to obtain replacement and upgraded parts. The only thing different, as I said, is this unit has 2 120VAC compressors inside, where standard household units have 1 large 240VAC compressor. I have several links to parts from Bill's website,and even new OEM units are available, if you need my links. Duner's information should be all you need though. FWIW, I have a basement unit, it keeps our MH(see sig) very comfortable in winter and summer, regardless of our location. (hope that doesn't jink me) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boatman1955 Report post Posted December 27, 2018 On 12/25/2018 at 8:45 PM, kaypsmith said: On one coach, we cut through both fiberglass skin and luan plywood, replaced the plywood with just the right thickness plywood so that it was flush with the outer skin, did a rough sand job on the entire sidewall that was pretty badly affected, then applied new skin over the entire side. The results were very good with a new coat of paint over the entire coach (white) then added some vinyl graphics. Thanks for responding to all of us, looking forward to seeing a great looking coach from you in the future. May the coming year be the best for all! Hi Kaypsmith, I posted some photos on this thread today of my buddies Renegade that I helped him skin almost 2 years ago. I am hoping that I don't have to do the entire thing but maybe that would be best. Thank You for responding! Happy New Year! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boatman1955 Report post Posted December 27, 2018 On 12/25/2018 at 9:33 PM, wolfe10 said: Sounds like you are extremely handy. Yes full wall replacement is certainly possible, but well past 99% of RV owners. Good luck with your project-- look forward to pictures/write-ups of the project! Thanks for that Wolfe! Happy New Year! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boatman1955 Report post Posted December 27, 2018 On 12/25/2018 at 10:04 PM, manholt said: That project is way above my pay scale! Good Luck & hope to see some photos of before/after! Thank You and Happy New Year! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boatman1955 Report post Posted December 27, 2018 On 12/25/2018 at 10:29 PM, Moonwink said: Boatman1955, To measure the height, lay a board on top of the air conditioner and make sure it's level - then measure the distance to ground from underneath it. Use a vent cover meant for the Fantastic fan or you'll lose a lot of its ability to move air. The smaller covers are great for the small fan in most bathrooms and non-powered vents. On 12/25/2018 at 10:29 PM, Moonwink said: Boatman1955, To measure the height, lay a board on top of the air conditioner and make sure it's level - then measure the distance to ground from underneath it. Use a vent cover meant for the Fantastic fan or you'll lose a lot of its ability to move air. The smaller covers are great for the small fan in most bathrooms and non-powered vents. Ok sounds good Moonwink! As long as I am 13-6" or less I am good to go. And I want all the flow I can get with the fans so will order the right ones. Thanks and Happy New Year! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boatman1955 Report post Posted December 27, 2018 On 12/26/2018 at 4:27 AM, manholt said: If you go to rv. USA, you'll find the complete specs! Your overall height is 13 foot 1 inch + the added roof AC. Don't know what make/model was added, but IMHO, your above 13 foot 6 inches in overall height, probably 13' 8"! Your sidewalls, end caps are Luan Plywood, 3-4 mm. Ouch... 13-6" was my feel good cut-off point. But actually I could still be within that number as there are other things sticking up above the roof, just not quite as high as the Coleman Ac unit. Thanks and Happy New Year! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rayin Report post Posted December 27, 2018 On 12/25/2018 at 10:29 PM, Moonwink said: Boatman1955, To measure the height, lay a board on top of the air conditioner and make sure it's level - then measure the distance to ground from underneath it. Use a vent cover meant for the Fantastic fan or you'll lose a lot of its ability to move air. The smaller covers are great for the small fan in most bathrooms and non-powered vents. FWIW, Fantastic Fan(8005210298) has a lifetime warranty on their vent covers. They sent me one under warranty, FedeX shipping was $16 though. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boatman1955 Report post Posted December 27, 2018 On 12/26/2018 at 4:27 AM, manholt said: If you go to rv. USA, you'll find the complete specs! Your overall height is 13 foot 1 inch + the added roof AC. Don't know what make/model was added, but IMHO, your above 13 foot 6 inches in overall height, probably 13' 8"! Your sidewalls, end caps are Luan Plywood, 3-4 mm. I was hoping to be within my magic number of 13-6" but will do an actual measurement to be sure. Thanks and Happy New Year! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boatman1955 Report post Posted December 27, 2018 On 12/26/2018 at 8:15 AM, jleamont said: Since this coach was inherited, id look it over for structural damaged from water and if all good make a decision to either fix it or run it as it is, since it sounds like you don't have any money invested into it. I actually considered aluminum skinning our last coach and removing the fiberglass. Hi, I'm not sure what caused the corrosion on my friends Renegade with aluminum skin but check out the photos of that before shot I posted on this thread. That thing was nasty! Thanks and Happy New Year! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boatman1955 Report post Posted December 27, 2018 On 12/26/2018 at 10:34 AM, rsbilledwards said: Boatman1955 welcome to the forum and your new hobby, I will throw my two bit in here as well. Repairing the leaks up top. The simplest way to assure no more leaks assuming the vent covers are sound... Pull all the existing sealant up from the base and reinstall. Once you get it started it will come up pretty easily. Two school of thoughts on this include using Eternabond tape and overlaying the seamed area, body of the vent onto the roof. I like the Dicor self-leveling sealant. It is available online for as little as 8 bucks a tube thru Amazon buying multiple tubes at once. At the same time I would pull all the screws which most likely will have been zinc plated and now rusty from ambient moisture and replace with stainless steel ones. It may be necessary to go one size larger as the wool/Luan may be compromised. Reseal liberally with the Dicore. Allow a minimum of a month before painting as it takes that long for the stuff to dry sufficiently, just ask how I know. Sealing the cap to roof is best done with the Eternabond tape. This tape thru RV supply houses is very expensive. Buying it thru the roofing industry or the construction industry it is very reasonable . However there are Johnny come lately tapes that claim the same performance, not! Buy the Eternabond branded tape, white one side and sticky the other side. The fan vents and height, Yes you can use the sit up in the air and add additional height with the suggested MAXXAIR covers about 12 inches tall. A better solution are the premium fan assemblies MAXXAIR and Fantastic make that are even better with dark colored lids and that when folded down closed are only 5 inches tall. The are automatic, variable speed, push air out and or pull air in and are very quiet. They retrofit to the standard 14 X 14 inch hole. One of the best sources for parts is PPL Motorhomes.com parts superstore. When on sale everything is cheaper than all the other places particularly big ticket items and post is very reasonable. Shop for what you need at Camping World so you know what not to pay and buy online it will save you a wheelbarrow full of money. Please keep us apprised as to the progress we all enjoy it A wheel barrow full of good useful information here! Thank You so much and Happy New Year! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boatman1955 Report post Posted December 27, 2018 41 minutes ago, RayIN said: Go HERE, then click on his links-W/pictures showing exactly how he removed, repaired, replaced his Coleman-Mach basement air conditioner. He is the ultimate authority IMO for these basement units. He's helped many owners with their units, and has a long list of where and how to obtain replacement and upgraded parts. The only thing different, as I said, is this unit has 2 120VAC compressors inside, where standard household units have 1 large 240VAC compressor. I have several links to parts from Bill's website,and even new OEM units are available, if you need my links. Duner's information should be all you need though. FWIW, I have a basement unit, it keeps our MH(see sig) very comfortable in winter and summer, regardless of our location. (hope that doesn't jink me) Thank You for this Ray! I will print this out and add it to me ever growing alfa library. Thanks so much and Happy New Year! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted December 27, 2018 2 hours ago, Boatman1955 said: Hi, I'm not sure what caused the corrosion on my friends Renegade with aluminum skin but check out the photos of that before shot I posted on this thread. That thing was nasty! Thanks and Happy New Year! I saw that, I will say it was unusual, but I guess it really depends on where it was operated at. There is a lot of information on here. Keep us posted on your progress and should you have any questions you can search for topics already discussed, if you cannot locate anything related just start a new one. good luck and happy trails. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted December 28, 2018 Joe, noticed you got your FMCA # listed at bottom of signature...welcome back! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted December 28, 2018 Yeah, I put it back on when I rejoined. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rayin Report post Posted December 28, 2018 5 hours ago, Boatman1955 said: Hi, I'm not sure what caused the corrosion on my friends Renegade with aluminum skin but check out the photos of that before shot I posted on this thread. That thing was nasty! Thanks and Happy New Year! The normal cause of aluminum corrosion is water intrusion, which results in galvanic corrosion. Galvanic corrosion occurs when dissimilar metals are in contact and get wet. https://www.engineersedge.com/galvanic_capatability.htm Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hermanmullins Report post Posted December 28, 2018 That is why one of the biggest expenses for the Navy is chipping hammers, scrapers and gray paint, GALVANIC CORROSION. Herman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boatman1955 Report post Posted December 28, 2018 15 hours ago, RayIN said: The normal cause of aluminum corrosion is water intrusion, which results in galvanic corrosion. Galvanic corrosion occurs when dissimilar metals are in contact and get wet. https://www.engineersedge.com/galvanic_capatability.htm Yes and of course a major problem on boats. In this case I was surprised in that the aluminum was glued to wood. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kaypsmith Report post Posted December 29, 2018 I sometimes wonder if salt wont corrode fiberglass! Well maybe not fiberglass but my brother owned homes right on the beach near PC Florida, and the salt air down there did a number on almost every kind of metal except high grade stainless, aluminum was one of the worst to sustain damage from the salt. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
