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DickandLois

Power Gear Electric Slide Out

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8 hours ago, DickandLois said:

Ray, Slide control uses the best computer ever designed. The one we carry around above our shoulders.

There is a sheer bolt or pin involved and as the slide seals compress the operator turns off the switch. 

Not real technical but very reliable most of the time, with a little TLC and the correct lubricants. 3 inch  square slide rails that run on roller bearings supported on a 4 inch  channel running through both frame rails.  The slide floor, bays and slide mechanics are for the most part supported primarily by the chassis main rails, even when retracted or extended. The steel walls are close to 3/16 inch steel.  Over built! probably !

   The ISB Cummings is rated to 275 HP an 660 Ft. lbs. with a MT-643 transmission rated at 42,000 Lb load. The only real weakness, is the CAC size. Could have been a little bigger, but if one keeps it and the radiator clean things work well. 

The Allison input torque is only 660  Ft.Lbs. With a tune up and setup the Cummings could put out close to 800 ft. lbs. The system is set for MPG to weight load. 

Rich.

The motor stops by what we all know as overload.  A grade 8 bolt is one heck of a shear pin but my dining slide manage to break it.  Lots of stress on it as that 12 foot long slide rides on long nylon blocks  You can't get to them to clean and lube but can only keep the bottom clean with slide out. 

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4 hours ago, jleamont said:

Same design we have on the front slide, the rear has a clutch, once its tight if you don't let go of the switch it will begin to slip, which also makes an obnoxious clunking sound. 

I'm thinking the clunking noise is the ragbox worm gear jumping the brass gear if your talking about the bed slide.  I had to replace the ragbox because the brass gear was worn out.  New box don't clunk yet.  

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1 hour ago, huffypuff said:

I'm thinking the clunking noise is the ragbox worm gear jumping the brass gear if your talking about the bed slide.  I had to replace the ragbox because the brass gear was worn out.  New box don't clunk yet.  

It only does it when it reaches the end if you continue to hold the button in when the slide is bottomed out. It will pop, squeeze the seals tighter and pop again and continue to do so until you let off. I keep telling my DW to listen for when it reaches the end, don't hold it that long. 

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13 hours ago, wayne77590 said:

Rich, I'm curious as to the operation of that slide. I'm not familiar with a "mechanical" slide.  When you are extending or retracting the slide and there is resistance at the end of travel, what turns the slide motor off to prevent breaking something.  Those motors are very powerful.

Wayne, Kind of overlooked your post. The system is setup with stop pins, but they do not interrupt the drive 12 volts . like Joe mentioned, the seals compress and as they do so. The motor load starts to grown both extending and retracting. Any groaning in the nominal travel distance is an indication that the slide is overloaded or requires some TLC. A cleaning or some lubricant applied to the exposed slide out mechanism .

      Owners also need to keep items clear of the inside an Outside area around the side walls or something left on top of the slides roof area. Often referred to as the Opes factor.

Rich.

Grade 8 bolts Should Not be used as Sheer Pins. just a 1/4 - 20 hardware bolt. Better to brake the bolt then something much more difficult to change and far more expensive .

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2 hours ago, DickandLois said:

Grade 8 bolts Should Not be used as Sheer Pins. just a 1/4 - 20 hardware bolt. Better to brake the bolt then something much more difficult to change and far more expensive .

I replaced the bolt with like grade factory bolt.  I believe my DR slide is dragging on the nylon blocks too hard causing the hole in the square driveshaft to to longgrate until bolt brakes.  Looking for solution to clean or lube the nylon blocks.   As for the bolt I can not confirm if it's a shear bolt or not but that one is breaking and the others are fine.  

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3 hours ago, jleamont said:

It only does it when it reaches the end if you continue to hold the button in when the slide is bottomed out. It will pop, squeeze the seals tighter and pop again and continue to do so until you let off. I keep telling my DW to listen for when it reaches the end, don't hold it that long. 

The motor gearbox is 26:1 and the ragbox is about 50:1 that puts lots of torque to the  final gear.  If you hold the switch something will break in short order.  

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41 minutes ago, huffypuff said:

The motor gearbox is 26:1 and the ragbox is about 50:1 that puts lots of torque to the  final gear.  If you hold the switch something will break in short order.  

Good to know, guess who will be running the slide switches now :P

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1 hour ago, huffypuff said:

Looking for solution to clean or lube the nylon blocks.

I would use the dry film lube from John Deer.

Bill

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4 hours ago, WILDEBILL308 said:

I would use the dry film lube from John Deer.

Bill

That stuff looks like a winner as I can coat the bottom of the slide and not wash off or attract dirt.  

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6 hours ago, DickandLois said:

Bill, Is that PTFE based?

I am not sure. I know it is the best I have found since I had access to milspec stuff. I use it on all the pins and pin holes in the towbar and any other place I need a dry film lube.

Bill

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Thank y'all for the lesson.  I have never had a "mechanical" slide.  Last MH was Kwikeep electric and they stopped by controllers monitoring current flow.  Present system is Power Gear with Schwintek controller and Schwintek with Schwintek controller. Had a motor go out on on side of the Power Gear slide-out last summer. 

One of the reasons I asked the question is due to the lessons I learned on our system.  Always, Always keep the button depressed when extending or retracting the slide and keep it depressed for a minimum of 5 seconds after the slide comes to a stop.  I can attest that when I bring the slide in I can hear one of the motors continuing to run for a few seconds after the slide stops.  This is synchronizing the two motors.  When extending and there is a need to stop, be sure to continue in the original direction of travel, then reverse if necessary, otherwise the motors could get out of sync - then the problems start.

If the "override" of the controller needs to be used be very careful as that does away with all safety items of the slide/controller.  On of DW's "prettys" fell down and wen extending the slide it could be heard crunching.  Very powerful.  The slide motor on my coach is about 2-1/2 inches in diameter and abiout 6 or 7 inches long.  Small item with a powerful pull/push.

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I stopped at John Deere and went to the agriculture parts counter for non stick spray.  The parts person have a motorhome also and and very aware of the problem the slide pushing and pulling over nylon blocks as he had same set up.  He got me a can of spray and told me to spray the bottom of the slide with it out that rubs the blocks and let it dry.  Then run the slide in and out then apply a second coat.  That will get it started and will run smoother and more quiet.  Apply a coating once a month and will even notice after prolonged use that the slide will soon operate faster.  He also says I can spray the gears and tracks with it too.  

https://www.greenpartstore.com/John-Deere-Graphite-Lubricant-TY25797.html

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