dwcraus@gmail.com Report post Posted December 13, 2020 I just bought a 2007 Safari Cheetah with 13,187 miles. It has a Domenic Dual door refrigerator Model NDA 1402 with an error code E 13. The refrigerator will not turn on with gas or electricity. Any suggestions? I would sure appreciate help. Thank you Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
charlieiam Report post Posted December 13, 2020 Error Codes - Dometic NDA1402 Service Manual [Page 34] | ManualsLib Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dwcraus@gmail.com Report post Posted December 13, 2020 Thank you! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
moonwink Report post Posted December 14, 2020 Shared for others: From Section 11.2 error codes - (pg 34) "Er 13": (Defrost heater for the drain tube/tray heater is faulty) The fault is detected as an "open circuit" to the heating element in the drain tube/tray heater. Possible faults: • Loose wires in the harness connected to (P5) on the lower control board. • Wrong or loose connections in the inter-connection box inside the freezer compartment. • Blown overheating protection fuse in the heating element (heating element has to be replaced). • Broken element (heating element has to be replaced) • See section 10.7 for testing of the heater. 10.7 drain tube/tray defrost Heating element (pg 32 - pictures didn't copy over - see https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1587861/Dometic-Nda1402.html?page=32#manual to view the pictures) The drain tube/tray heater is placed at the bottom of the plastic cover, housing the freezer cooling plate. This heater is on at all times during the defrosting of the freezer and fresh food compartments and will remain on for short periods of time at the end of defrosting to help assure water does not refreeze in the drain line. To check the resistance of the heater, remove the cover from the main control board on the back of the refrigerator. Remove the P5 harness cable from lower PC board. Measure the resistance between pin 5 (white wire) and pin 2 (yellow wire). The resistance should be 13.3 Ohm's +/- 10%. The resistance can also be checked at the inter-connection box along the back wall behind the ice maker assembly. The refrigerator should be defrosted prior to this test to avoid erroneous readings. Frost/Ice could conduct current hiding an open circuit in the heater. A faulty heater may display an error code on the front display panel. See section 11 for trouble shooting error codes. In some cases during the install or replacement of the drain tube/tray heater, the portion that extends into the drain tube may become folded over or bunched up. When the heater is activated, this may cause a short and cause the heater to become open. A faulty heater may display an error code on the front display panel. See section 11 for trouble shooting codes. Another test would be to check the amp draw. A simple method is to remove the wires from the thermo fuse and place a meter inline. Enter the service mode, and proceed to test #9. The amp draw should be .9 +/- 10%. note: The interior light must be off when performing this test as to avoid a false value of the actual amp draw of the heater. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anthony Constantinou CWM Report post Posted December 16, 2020 (edited) Check Leveling which is the most important requirements for proper operation with absorption refrigerators Edited December 16, 2020 by jleamont Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildebill308 Report post Posted December 16, 2020 8 hours ago, Anthony Constantinou CWM said: Check Leveling which is the most important requirements for proper operation with absorption refrigerators First, welcome to the forum. Yes many forget that little detail. Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
moonwink Report post Posted December 16, 2020 I'll agree that being level is VERY IMPORTANT for the proper operation of absorption refrigerators and can't be stressed enough but it's not related to the cause of the E13 error the OP asked about. This error points to problems with the heating element in the drain tube/tray heater. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hermanmullins Report post Posted December 16, 2020 Just in in my humble opinion when you have issues with any Gas Absorption Refrigerator it is time to look at replacing it with a Residential unit. If you do you will never be sorry and have piece of mind of it not catching on fire. Changed our out about 6 years ago and nary a problem (plus we have twice the space for the finer things in life, beer and wine). Again just IMHO. Herman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rossboyer Report post Posted December 16, 2020 We changed ours out for a Samsung RF197 about 5 years ago. Works great on modified sine wave inverter while traveling holding 38F in refrigerator and 0-2F in freezer. One if the twi best changes we have done. The other was replacing Level Legs with HWH levelers. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hermanmullins Report post Posted December 16, 2020 Your are right Ross, the Samsung RF18 we installed was a perfect to replace the Nevercool 1200. We were fortunate to have a drawer under the 1200. I removed the drawer and put the Samsung down at floor level. I made the space above the unit into a storage space. My wife loves the extra space over the 1200. Herman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rossboyer Report post Posted December 16, 2020 I could not remove the drawer due to a bundle of wires, a wye of two drain lines coming together and one of the furnaces. Had to raise 11 inches. Wife cannot reach top shelf. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
moonwink Report post Posted December 16, 2020 How does any of this talk about residential refrigerators help the OP with an issue with Error E13? If you've got deep pockets, fine, go ahead and replace the refrigerator and hopefully you're good at redoing the woodwork around it. I'm happy for you. I've been RVing over 40 years. Never had any problems with my absorption refrigerators because I kept them level when in use. I didn't need a battery bank and inverter to operate them or solar panels to recharge the batteries. I've been very happy with the refrigerator that came with my RVs and will continue using them. Now let's get back on topic. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dwcraus@gmail.com Report post Posted December 17, 2020 I appreciate every ones comments and suggestions. I would like to repair the fridge if possible. I had a mobile service guy come out and with out checking anything out he told me to just replace it. Im going to try and replace the defrost heater for the frost tube and see what happens from there. Moonwink, I am going to try your suggestions before doing anything. Thanks guys! I'll keep you updated, wish me luck. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rossboyer Report post Posted December 17, 2020 Somewhere I saw a solution for your problem. A small copper wire was threaded through the tube and the end in the refrigerator was clipped to the closest cooling fin. I have looked for it, but didn’t find it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
five Report post Posted December 17, 2020 On 12/16/2020 at 4:11 PM, moonwink said: ....How does any of this talk about residential refrigerators help the OP with an issue with Error E13?... The OP is looking for a solution to a problem with his refer. Replacing it is certainly an option. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted December 18, 2020 (edited) moonwink. If I'm still able to remember, it was back to front that was critical? Or side to side? Back then we had no Jacks, just boards to level on. Never had a problem with Dometic! Having said that...not everyone is as lucky and knowledgeable about the absorption fridge as you are...I'm happy, your happy! OP has a problem with his fridge and replacing it is an option, perhaps to you, not the perfect solution. Depending upon the cu. ft. a residential can be way cheaper than his current unit. I'm glad you have 40 years of coach experience? I have 54 years, class A's and now on coach #18. My first was a New 1967 Winnebago. I was 24 at the time. Edited December 18, 2020 by jleamont Share this post Link to post Share on other sites