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moonwink

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Near St Louis
  • Interests
    2004 Safari Trek 31SBD (V10-F53)
  • I travel
    Part-time

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  1. There seems to be a little difference between the Flowrite Battery Watering System for Trojan batteries than there is for other batteries. I know for a fact, the ganged tops for Interstate GC2 golf cart batteries and Trojan t-105 batteries are identical because I took the factory original Trojan battery tops off and snapped them onto the Interstate batteries I returned to Costco. The flowrite system I took off the Interstate batteries is working great on my Trojan T-105 batteries I ended up with. Since I bought my Flowrite system, I see they've begun offering ganged tops to cut down on the individual tops and tubing between them. That makes installation a lot easier. Here's what the Flowrite system looks like installed. https://store.flow-rite.com/watering-system-2-6v-fits-all-6v-standard-spacingrv-2000.html $65 The rascals sell the hand pump you need to connect to the tubing separately. You put one end in a gallon of distilled water and squeeze the hand pump till it gets hard meaning the batteries have stopped taking water. https://store.flow-rite.com/fast-fill-battery-water-supply-for-rvrv-2020.html $20 Or, you buy a battery water can for $12 to $15. https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W54274-Battery-Filler/dp/B003EHIFE4/ All these products make adding water to your batteries easier. The Flow-Rite system has a float that blocks adding water when there's enough in the cell. The water you put in the battery watering can stops flowing when the water reaches the proper level. I recommend checking and topping off your batteries once a month to prolong their life.
  2. Duracell Golf Car Battery - Group Size GC2 ($90) https://www.samsclub.com/p/duracell-golf-car-battery-group-size-gc2/prod3590228?xid=plp_product_1 BCI GROUP NUMBER: GC2 DIMENSIONS IN INCHES*: 10.38" 7.13" 10.88" LxWxH
  3. Towing around a heavy trailer wouldn't be my choice but to each his own. Make doggone sure chain that vehicle down VERY good so it won't keep going when you need to brake hard. Just the thought scares me. https://www.wikihow.com/Tie-Down-a-Car-on-a-Trailer
  4. Many of us who have tried the tow dollies soon tired of dragging them around. They weigh around 500 lbs. Many RV sites are back-in meaning you'll need to drop the car off the dolly and put it aside before backing into the site. Then you'll need to figure out where to store the dolly. Flat towing is a lot easier. You can't back-up with a car in tow but disconnecting it is a lot easier. Convenience is a big factor to consider before you make your decision.
  5. Try a Google search for "recoating aluminum wheels" I just tried and found all sorts of responses from DIY and YouTube videos to repair shops listed. I'm sure you'll find a fix you'll want to try.
  6. I'm not sure the F53 chassis front end is related to the F-250 or F-350. The F53 has no ball joints - It uses king pins and a solid front axle. Better make sure that class action covers your chassis before signing on.
  7. Sorry to hear of your continued problems. I've been driving the V-10 F53 since 2001 (two different MHs) while towing 4 four down and haven't experienced the problems you describe. I have been disappointed in getting the tires balanced which was a problem in the early 1999/2000 models. There was a TSB 00-21-09 covering that problem and I've attached copies here. One of the main reasons for the problem back then was Ford didn't know which of 4 wheels you had. In fact you might not have all the same wheels. The wheels were not hub centric or lug centric. The the lug holes in the wheels came with different sizes. The only way to center the wheels on the hub was to use guide pins. I gave a Ford dealer 125 miles from me (the Ford Motorhome Warranty phone center set me there) 2 tries to fix my out of balance problems under warranty and they failed. They had it 3 weeks the first try and 4 weeks the second one. I had 9 tires and wheels - a tag axle and a spare. They replaced at least 3 wheels and 5 tires (Goodyear 670RV) failed to pass tests and were replaced. It still bounced after all their work. When it needed tires, I went with Bridgestone R250 tires and that helped. Ford fixed the problem for the 2001 and later chassis by going to hub centric wheels. You're (unfortunately) the first one I've heard with an oscillation problem on this chassis. I still believe there has to be some slop there somewhere that allows the wobble to continue. I experienced that problem on one of my cars back in the 1960s and I know it can't be ignored. Slowing down was the only thing that helped bring it to a stop back then. It was a signal the front end needed an overhaul with new ball joints and bushings. The F53 uses kingpins that should last almost forever given a shot of grease with every oil change. There are 9 grease fittings on the F53.
  8. I was able to get to the United Health Care website today using the MiFi. Also, I fumbled around the settings and found a way to change the SID and PW for WiFi. None of that was mentioned in the owners manual but should have been. In another thread, I found a tip to increase the setting for when warnings would occur about using too much data (10Gb is the default setting). As advised in that topic, I added 3 zeros so I should never see the warning. While I'm making progress, I'd hate to rely on the MiFi 8000 without a backup device. There was no reason I should have had problems connecting to any websites that gave me trouble yesterday.
  9. Helped me too! Now on to the other hurtles I mentioned in another post.
  10. I just received my Sprint MiFi 8000 and am trying it out for the first time. It was working fine for awhile but when I needed to connect to United Health Care's website, I was blocked and received time out message saying the website wasn't available. Several other sites I tried to connect to also timed out. I then connected to my Verizon phone's hotspot and get right through. I've download, printed and read through the owner's manual without learning anything. I wanted to change the SID and WiFi password but there is no mention of how that's done in the user manual and looking over all the settings available to me on the device don't lead me to any settings where I can do that. I tried the email mentioned in Herman Miller's post only to have my message immediately blocked by the receiver. Owning this device better not be a PITA or I'll dump it like a hot potato. It shouldn't be this difficult to use and manage.
  11. Your Honda weighs approximately 3300 (front wheel drive) to 3400 lbs (4 wheel drive) according to FMCA's list of towable cars for 2104 (an excellent source of information). I'd guess the receiver on your Sprinter is rated at 5000 lbs. - there should be a label on it. Comparing the Gross Combination Vehiclle Weight Rating (GCWR - this is the weight of the Sprinter and towed combined) of your Sprinter to its weight , you'll know for sure if it's designed to tow the weight of your CRV.
  12. There should be three sections about towing in the owner's manual. One for towing a trailer behind the vehicle. One for towing in the event of a breakdown and one for towing behind a motorhome 4 wheels down. If there isn't a section on towing behind a motorhome 4 down, you'd better make sure Ford is okay with towing it that way.
  13. The F-53 chassis didn't come with a front track-bar. Track-bars became standard on the 2004 model year chassis. I highly recommend installing one if you haven't already. Use the blue "poly" bushings. There has to be some "play" somewhere in the joints that allow the oscillations to continue. Have all the tie rod ends and bushings and other joints checked for looseness.
  14. I heard all the Sprint signs on their stores will be replaced with T-Mobile signs on August 2nd. The Sprint name will no longer be used. I have no proof of that however. Interesting times. I wonder if the terms of the $50 unlimited FMCA plan will change?
  15. This question comes up all the time when folks begin their search for a towable vehicle. Try searching for "towed" vehicles here on the forums. You can do a little research on your own by looking for Motorhome Magazine's website and their yearly section on which vehicles are towable. It usually comes out in January but they keep several years worth of them on their website. FMCA does the same thing. Every January, all the current towable vehicles are listed and the listing on their website also goes back several years. Access is only available to FMCA members. Good luck with your search and remember, to check the owner's manual of the vehicle you select for instructions on what you'll need to do before towing it "4 down" behind an RV. If it's towable, they'll be a section explaining how in the owner's manual.
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