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    Near St Louis
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    2004 Safari Trek 31SBD (V10-F53)
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  1. Every year both FMCA and Motorhome Magazine publish an article (usually in January) about the vehicles made that year that can be towed. That's a great place to start your search. Only you know what you like. I tow a 1997 Ford Aerostar mini van that's shown as having a 3800 lb weight. It's rear wheel drive so I use a driveshaft disconnect made by Remco. They also make pumps for some vehicles automatic transmissions that make the models they've tested towable even though they didn't come out of the factory that way. Below you'll find links to the towing guides I've mentioned. Aerostars were last mfg'd in 1997 so they're getting very hard to find in good condition. Another personal favorite of mine is the Chevy Malibu which has many models that are towable. I like it because it weighs around 3300 lbs and seats 5 adults. My other towed vehicle is a 2009 Chevy HHR - no longer made also but easier to find used. There's many options but you should do some research on your own first to focus on models you'd be happy with. You must be logged into to your FMCA account to use this linK: https://familyrvingmag.com/2018/04/01/towing-guides/ https://www.motorhome.com/download-dinghy-guides/ http://pechlimoinc.com/remco-towing-guide/
  2. I figured most folks would be familiar with the way the ReadyBrake system worked but in case you're not, here's a link to a page with an animated gif about 1/2 way down the page that shows just how it works. In short, the harder the towed pushed against the MH, the harder the ReadyBrake pulls on the cable attached to the towed's brake pedal. Very simple and it works great for me. (If your browser doesn't show the gif (like mine) try a different one.) How Does The Ready Brake Work? https://www.readybrake.com/store/p1/ReadyBrake™_Towed_Vehicle_Supplemental_Brake_System_(2"_Receiver_Style).html When you brake while towing a vehicle behind an RV, stopping distance is increased due to the weight of the vehicle and it's momentum pushing against the RV. The ReadyBrake uses this energy to compress a shock and spring inside it which allows an actuator arm to move forward, pulling down your towed vehicle brake pedal with an attached cable. It takes a few hundred pounds of pressure to activate the ReadyBrake, so the towed vehicle will follow the RV down a steep mountain grade only applying brakes when you do. After initial install, only an adjustable sling cable is used to connect or disconnect the ReadyBrake. We recommend leaving about 2 inches of slack in the adjustable sling cable to keep the brake from activating while going over dips like at a gas station. When the RV comes to a complete stop the ReadyBrake actuator arm stays in the forward position continuing to hold the towed vehicle brake pedal down until the RV moves forward a couple of inches to disengage it. Use of the ReadyBrake can decrease stopping distance by upwards of 30%.
  3. I've had NSA's ReadyBrake for longer than I can remember (I'm thinking I've had it since sometime in the 80's). They're a good company and have been around quite awhile. If I had purchased everything (towbar and brake system) I'd have the system you're looking at. After researching brake systems extensively, I went with the ReadyBrake because it's fully proportional, easy and quick to connect and disconnect, doesn't require any power and there's no "box' to install/remove. With an LED on my dash connected directly to the brake light switch in the towed, I know when the cable is pulling on the brakes on the towed. It's met my requirements completely. I've seen the NSA towbar and it looks very nice. I've never heard anyone with any complaints about it. I would hesitate to go with the system you're looking at. Be sure to follow the instructions in your towed's owner's manual while towing it. I've got the ReadyBrake, the brake-away system and the LED for the dash and wouldn't change if someone gave me an active breaking system which in fact they did (and it's still sitting in the box they gave it to me in - they had someone remove it from their towed when their camping days were over).
  4. I doubt that either your satellite dish or your DirectTV will be able to provide you with any options for Internet service. I've got an so called unlimited plan through Verizon but after 15Gb, they throttle the throughput the rest of the month. I understand ATT does the same thing. Sprint through FMCA offers a truly unlimited plan with a hotspot for $50/month. Now that Sprint has been acquired by T-Mobile, it's anyone's guess at this time what the future holds for that plan. From what I've heard, Verizon works best in the west and ATT mobile works best in the east - as a general rule. All these systems have a built-in crisis detector in them with the probability of causing your problems at the most critical time. Whatever you do if that happens, keep your cool and speak softly to it - don't yell and scream and cuss at it because doing so only makes it worse. Lots of luck with your quest for good, reliable and reasonably priced Internet service on the road. Be sure to let us know what you find and how it works for you.
  5. I'm a huge fan of ReadyBrake by NSA. It's an inertia system that pulls on the car's brake pedal when the car tries to push the MH. I've used the same one for well over 20 years and swear by it. Fully proportional and the least expensive way to add a breaking system to a towed that I know of. https://www.readybrake.com/store/c3/Supplemental_Braking_Systems.html How it works: http://assets.readybrake.com/bin/ReadyBrakeAnimation.gif
  6. I get an email containing the new posts every time someone adds to this topic. I don't know what the setting is, but whenever I post a reply to a topic or create one, I'm subscribed to that topic. Someone with a better understanding of the forum should be able to explain how to set your profile to do the same as mine.
  7. Towing it may have aggravated an already bad bearing but it shouldn't cause a good bearing to go bad. There's a lot of cars being towed behind MHs and if it was common problem, that practice would soon end.
  8. Buy the suspenders in the men's department at Walmart under $10 or buy them at Camping World for $15+. Not sure what BB&B gets for them but if their called anything but pants suspenders, expect to pay more. You can cut the stitches at the Y if they bother you or use them as they come. Either way, they'll pull the sheets or mattress pad tight. I bought the biggest, widest suspenders they had. I cut the stitching on the first ones but didn't bother on the second pair. They both work great for the little they cost.
  9. Buy a couple of sets of suspenders. Clip them on the underside of the mattress to keep the sheets tight. One top to bottom and one side to side. Works great.
  10. When I measured the voltage at my headlights, I had a 2 volt drop between them and the chassis battery. I wired the original wires to the headlights to the coil of a relay that provided battery power directly to the headlights. Also, make sure the headlight ground is good. I ran a wire directly off the negative post of the battery to the headlights to make sure there wasn't any drop in voltage caused by a faulty ground connection. All the autoparts stores stock the relays but you can get them cheaper online.
  11. You're asking for a lot while not giving us a clue as to what RV (I'm guessing it's an RV) you're having a problem with. Many of us put that information in our signature but at least tell us what it is you're having trouble with and I'm sure you'll get a helpful answer. Year, Brand, Model??
  12. After being a Sprint customer for many years, I switched to T-Mobile for awhile. The T-Mobile coverage left a lot to be desired in our home area and I switched to Verizon. For years I sat around the campfire listening to lots of people rave about the service they experienced with Verizon. My experience hasn't been stellar. It's been okay but I run over my 15Gb unlimited data plan in about 10 days. I can still get my work done while throttled but it's a thorn in my side and is false advertising to claim you're selling an unlimited plan with limits. I've purchased my phones off eBay so I'm not under contract and ready to switch whenever the urge strikes me and that may be soon. The terms of my plan changed dramatically after I agreed to it - that never happened to me before. I believe they're all crooks taking us to the cleaners with overpriced services and under preforming networks. I've haven't tried AT&T mobile phones in almost 20 years but I had to deal with their Asian customer support staff for over 3 hours over the loss of U-Vision service at my church. It only took them a week to send someone out to restore the phone and internet service and patted themselves on the back for being so prompt. I won't put myself in position to go through that again. The pie in the sky talk about how wonderful 5G will be won't live up to the hype for many years to come. Mobile providers aren't in the habit of restructuring their networks overnight.
  13. You can try sending an email to Mailto: dan@sprint.com That email goes to the staff in the CEO's office and they'll contact you to see if anything can be done. At least that used to be a good address. Instead of trying to connect with someone that can help by working through the interactive voice response systems meant to discourage callers, using that email address will have them contacting you. The staff in that office will either put you touch with some techs to help you or let you know what you can do on your end to fix your problem. No guarantees but it's worth a try. Good luck!
  14. You're already a member of FMCA, why not shop your policy through their program? https://fmcarvinsurance.com/ It won't cost you anything but a few minutes of your time and probably will save you hundreds. It's a good practice to shop your policy every 5 years or so just to make sure what you're paying is reasonable. Your garaging address has more to do with your premium than just about anything else but your driving/accident record.
  15. I've been using a ReadyBrake with a BlueOx towbar longer than I can remember. Completely satisfied! I can't count the number of towed I've used it on and all worked great. I love the ease and simplicity with which it connects and disconnects. The proportionality of the system is wonderful. The harder I brake, the harder the pull on the towed's brake pedal. I highly recommend it to others but many choose to pay big dollars for the active systems and fool around with gadgets of all types. I see a NSA booth now and then at the shows and always stop in to say hi and ask if I ought to be doing any maintenance on my old unit. There is none. As you can see by my signature, I'm dragging an Aerostar with a driveshaft disconnect which is also super easy to prepare for towing. Pull the knob to disconnect the driveshaft, leave the shifter in Park and turn the key to ACC so the steering wheel can turn - done.
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