Roadtrek 200 Storage Compartment Replacement Hinge

[birdman4skip]

A few days ago we bought a 2000 Roadtrek 200 widebody and drove it 600 miles home.

Today my husband opened the driver's side door of the "across the rear" storage compartment and it fell off. The plastic hinge was broken. We consider ourselves, and other drivers, lucky this big door didn't fall off on the fast freeway drive home. The RV overall is in excellent shape and I think the plastic was just degraded from being in a hot area over the years. We can't seem to find any Roadtrek parts sites on the web other than sales/dealer sites, which don't even have parts or parts dept. links.

Do any of you fine folks have an idea where we can find such body parts? My husband wants to replace it with the same plastic part rather than a generic metal hinge.

Thanks much.

[hermanmullins]

Do any of you fine folks have an idea where we can find such body parts? My husband wants to replace it with the same plastic part rather than a generic metal hinge.

Thanks much.

Skip & Wendy,

Welcome to the Forum. Did you get any manuals along with the coach? If so you might find the maker of your doors.

Call Roadtrek and see if they have the vendor or a source.

Check on line for RV salvage and or RV surplus. They are a good source for parts.

Good luck and again Welcome to the Forum.

[tbutler]

As Herman mentioned, RV salvage is probably your best bet if you can't find the part through a dealer or manufacturer. If you go to the menu line above, on the right side is a search box. Type in salvage and click the magnifier symbol. You should get a listing of numerous articles referencing salvage sources. I replied to a recent query for other parts in a discussion and put several links in that response. Read that response and find those links here. Many of these yards will ship nationwide and generally people I know who have used this source are quite happy with the customer service they receive. If you end up getting the wrong part, my experience is that they will exchange it without question.

[birdman4skip]

Thanks Herman and Tom.

We looked at your links, but Skip is trying to find a non-salvage one before looking at salvage. He doesn't think they would want to unscrew the hinge instead of selling the door whole. I did look through and bookmark some of the salvage and used parts places from your links, but couldn't find a long hinge like that. I think we'll use a generic metal one. We were surprised that Roadtrek didn't have some kind of link to the manufacturers of the motorhome, who I would think would have some selection of leftover small parts, if not that particular one. Thanks again, and I look forward to corresponding with the group.

Wendy

[wolfe10]

Wendy,

If you post some pictures of the hinge, it is possible one of us will recognize it or be able to come up with a suitable replacement.

Here is information on how to post a photo: http://community.fmca.com/topic/2685-how-to-add-a-picture-to-fmca-blog-from-picasa-web-albums/

Brett

[tbutler]

Thanks Herman and Tom.

We looked at your links, but Skip is trying to find a non-salvage one before looking at salvage. He doesn't think they would want to unscrew the hinge instead of selling the door whole.

Wendy

Salvage shops may want to sell the whole door but they may be willing to sell only the hinge. Also, some salvage shops purchase inventories of new materials from dealers or manufacturers who are discontinuing the item or going out of business. It won't hurt to inquire. If a salvage yard can't help, they may be able to recommend another that can help.

[Chilkootsdriver]

Hi Skip and Wendy, I have a Roadtrek 200P that I purchased new 11 years ago. I live in Florida and have driven my Roadtrek all over the USA (crossed the Rocky Mountains four times) and now have 150,000+ miles on the odo. Five years ago I replaced the rear side locker door hinges. After doing a lengthy search for a replacement I ended up buying the parts from my local dealer. At the time I thought they were expensive ($42.00 and $45.00 list price). A piano hinge was not an option because we have lots of rain and I was concerened about water ingress. Now, five years later, the hinges have separated about 1/3 of their length and will have to be replaced. Another internet search was done with no luck finding a suitable replacement. A call to my Roadtrek dealer gives me the current 2011 sticker shock price of $165.94 and $181.15 for the two rear locker hinges. That's a pretty good sum of money to keep my unit repaired as designed and built. Installation is no easy task. I had to purchase a compact hydraulic rivet gun to pull the 3/16" rivets in close quarters. The rivet gun is needed to work on other parts of the vehicle. The old rivets have to be drilled out and pulled. The existing holes have to be sealed well or the hollow fiberglass locker door will eventually fill with water and become to heavy for the gas struts to support. I devised a support to hold the door in place when installing the new hinge and have pictures to show if you’re interested. I wish you luck in finding hinges at a reasonable price and hope you have a smooth repair. Jack

[Trapper]

The hinge on my 2002 190V fell off last summer. Fortunately I was near a Roadtrek dealer. The only place he could get one was through Roadtrek (much of their parts are proprietary...windows, etc). They had to order from Canada, pay duty, etc. Cost me $300.00 out the door.

[ZANOBIA]

The side compartment hinge on my 2000 Roadtrek 190 popular is cracking and I'm reluctant to open as it may continue cracking and fall off. I call Roadtrek and they referred me to the closest dealer, about 200 miles from where I live, Steve Casey's in Denver, Colorado. They estimated the part at $260.00 and $180.00 for the repair.

Does anyone have an alternate repair solution. Maybe a flexible adhesive silicone to apply to the outside and also the inside? Or Gorilla tape applied to the outside and also the inside? Please advise. Zanobia

[Slaysman]

I have the same problem with our 2003 Roadtrek 190. I cannot get any dealers here to ever get me a part number for the plastic hinge for the side storage compartment, and Roadtrek themselves are absolutely no help at all.. It finally broke through today, and it was a bit of work to drill out all the pop rivets to pull the broken parts off.

I have ordered an aluminum piano hinge, but not sure it is going to work. The old hinge is about 1/2" to 5/8" thick when closed, and the hinge I ordered is only about an 1/8" thick closed. I may have to fabricate some spacers or something.

Tape will not work. The sun will eat it up, and it will eventually fail at the worst possible time.

[Slaysman]

I love the internet! Found the exact hinges from another forum. Moore Industrial Hardware, 800-543-1677. Item # 4561-2231-020, Continuous Hinges, Plastic. $27.67 plus shipping. Here is the link:

http://catalog.mooreindhardware.com/item/hinges-continuous-hinges/continuous-hinges-plastic/item-7812?

[Slaysman]

I replaced the hinge last weekend. Not terribly difficult, but it does take some time, patience, and a helper for the final assembly. Materials needed are:

- New plastic hinge

- Pop rivet tool

- Box of 3/16" pop rivets with 1/2" grip range

- Aluminum pop rivet washers (optional, but recommended)

- Black silicon RTV

- 1/2" wide x 1/4" thick medium or high density weatherstripping adhesive foam

- Blue painter's masking tape

Here is the procedure that I used:

Remove the old hinge pieces and save them. You will have to drill out the old pop rivets. Clean off the old RTV from the van where the hinge was attached. I used a single edged razor blade. Also clean out any RTV at the ends of the hinge area where the vertical door seals are located.

Measure the old hinge and use a hacksaw to cut the new hinge to the proper length. Use the old hinge pieces as templates and 3/16" drill to pre-drill the new hinge holes for the pop rivets. I did this to minimize the number of new holes needed in the van body and the door. You can clamp or tape the old and new hinges together to get the holes close, or measure the hole positions and mark them on the new hinge and drill them. The idea is to get as close as possible, but you will likely have to enlarge the holes in the new hinge a bit to get the holes to line up when assembling.

Check the hole locations by attempting to test fit it to both the door and the van body. I used some #10 bolts and nuts in the end holes, then tried to insert bolts in the other holes. This is where you will need your drill to "adjust" the hole locations. Be sure to get the hinge tight against the van body when doing this, so it will fit flush when riveting. Repeat this process on the storage compartment door side of the hinge. You might find that it will be a good idea to tape down the rubber seals at each end of the door opening so that the hinge will easily slide in ABOVE the ends of the seals.

Apply a bead of RTV to the door where the old hinge attached, and smooth it along the area where the hinge will attach. Insert a pop rivet in one of the holes, and place an aluminum washer onto the other end. Use the rivet tool to set the pop rivet. Make sure the hinge is pushed up tight against the door while doing this. Repeat until you have all the pop rivets installed. An assistant makes life easier here.

Get some 1" long #10 bolts and nuts, the masking tape, and maybe some boxes or something to rest the bottom edge of the door on while you are attaching the hinge edge. Have them handy by the side of the van.

Mask off the area just above the door opening on the van with the blue masking tape. Place it where the original RTV ended. This will keep you from getting RTV all over the side of the van. You may also want to Cut a piece of the weatherstripping foam to the length of the hinge, and apply it to the new hinge on the inboard side of the mounting holes. You can see where the foam goes by looking at your old hinge. Then run a small bead of RTV along the length of the new hinge on the outboard side of the mounting holes. this will seal the hinge against the van body to prevent leakage. Take a breather before the next step, and make sure your assistant is ready!

Slide the door and hinge assembly into place, and have your assistant hold it while you put a couple of nuts and bolts in place loosely to temporarily hold the hinge to the van. Then prop the door open with some boxes, or use long strips of tape from the bottom of the door to the side of the van to hold the door open.

Insert a pop rivet, work an aluminum washer on to the end of it (it is tight but you can get your fingers in above the hinge area to do this). Take your time so as not to get frustrated! Have your assistant push the hinge against the van and use the rivet tool to set the rivet. Repeat this process until you have all the rivets installed. You may not be able to get washers in place on all the rivets, especially at the two ends. You also may find you need the drill again to enlarge a few holes as the hinge gets attached. When done, take another break!

Let the door hang down on the hinge. Apply a strip of the blue masking tape along the top edge of the hinge so that about 1/16" of the top edge is exposed. Mask off the end areas to keep RTV off the van body. This is where you are going to apply more RTV. You will probably not see any RTV coming out of the area between the hinge and the van unless you put too much of a bead on the hinge. If so, wipe the hinge clean before applying the masking tape. Get a bowl of water and some paper towels. Squeeze a bead or RTV along the entire length of the top of the hinge. Apply whatever is needed to get it into whatever gap you have between the hinge and the van. When you are happy, dip your finger in the water, and slide it along the bead of RTV to smooth it. You may need to clean and wet your finger multiple times. When this step is complete, starting at one end, peel off the two long strips of tape and dispose of them.

Once all that is done, I would let it sit for a couple hours or a day to let the RTV set a bit. You can re-attach the the door support strut to the door again. Then pull any tape off the end seals and get them in the proper position. you can glue them into position with some of the RTV. You can then mask around the ends of the hinge and door, and fill in the gap with RTV, like it was originally. Let that set up and you are all done.

I think I covered it all. Like I said, not difficult, but if you aren't a bit handy with tools, you might want to farm the work out to someone who is.

[roadtrekrunner]

Thank you for explaining how to repair this hinge, I have the same issue, Does anyone have problems with the side door hinge swinging all the way open?

My side door is missing a spring of some sort on the 200 Popular.

Where can I get this spring and how to fix?

[dickandlois]

Roadtrekrunner,

Are you talking about the door that you enter the coach area or the passenger door?

The hinges on the coach door that extend out from the body just behind the passenger door do not have a spring or a detent bar built into them, like the hinges on the passenger or drivers doors.

This door is open all the way or closed from what I have seen. Could you post a picture of you door hinge(s) for the group.

Having said that there is a nylon strap the limits the door to 90 deg. that connects between the door frame behind the passenger door and connects to the coach door with a retractable roller mounted inside the door that is spring loaded to retract the strap.

Is this the item that is missing?

Rich.

[roadtrekrunner]

I do not know how to post a picture, can I text you a picture from my phone?

I do not have a nylon strap from my coach door, only a metal bar that keeps popping out letting the door swing past the 90 degrees, and then I have to place the metal bar inside the hole to allow the door to close. the metal bar has a hook on the end that goes inside and catches, but we have to make sure it does catch each time we open the door.

I know something is missing, I just don't know what it is, I just bought this 200 Popular and the previous owner just said a spring was missing.

Thanks, Dan

[dickandlois]

Dan, I found a picture of the rod that keeps the door from swinging to far by not catching to pin located inside the door.

I sure looks like the one in your picture is not bent properly at the bend a few inches from the door frame pivot point.

That bend not being the correct angle would keep the rod from catching the pin.

Rich.

[phonemd]

I just bought the hinge that was recommended in this thread, it's exactly the same thing as the original..........Just be careful drilling the holes accurately. and you can use screws and nuts if you don't have rivets. I used number 8 stainless steel screws, and nuts with lock washers, it will make it easier to replace next time!......