huffypuff Report post Posted December 20, 2014 I'm getting the coach ready for long haul to Desert Hot Springs, CA and one thing I did was physical check the exhaust brake. When I tried to move the lever it was stuck open. I know I didn't lube it for awhile like last year about this time. Surprise! Maybe it was getting seized all along but needed to be taking apart to get it moving again. In this case it was the pin that connected the cylinder to the flap arm. Anyway I was lucky to get the cylinder off after heating, spraying and working it back and forth. For now on I be sure to use high temperature anti-seize spray good for at least 1600 F and won't run off. You can get it at NAPA but it's expensive at 15.95 for 10 oz spray can. Now I know to spray before any long adventure. I recommend everybody to check their exhaust brake with long enough screwdriver to move the lever. Then spray all pins and lever shaft with the high temperature anti-seize spray. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted December 20, 2014 Pacbrake sells their own lube-- under $10. And here is where to lube it: http://pacbrake.com/supplemental-brakes/fixed-orifice-exhaust-brakes/maintenance-2/ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
huffypuff Report post Posted December 20, 2014 I imagine that is also good stuff but I couldn't find it except for eBay. I think it was 9.99 plus 4.00 shipping for 4.5 oz. I think I also seen it as a Superlube product for a little less but still have to order it. The stuff I got is made by Permatex and is much the same as whats used on spark plugs, exhaust bolts and O2 sensors. This is a lighter penetrating spray that is good from -60 to 1600 F. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Anti-Seize-Compound-Lubricant-10-oz-ITW-Global-Brands/_/R-BK_7651150_0006382899 Another thing I found out since I use the coach intermittently I'm suppose to spray ever 4 months not once a year. I think commercial vehicles are the one that fall into continual use to be done once a year. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickandlois Report post Posted December 20, 2014 It is one of the items that has a tendency to get you. Kind of out of sight out of mind item that we tend to over look. So I do have it on my check list before going out on the road. Link to a picture of the Pacbrake. http://community.fmca.com/gallery/image/3403-exhaust-brake-internal-damper/ http://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/popup.aspx?src=/images/Product/large/6734.jpg Rich. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hermanmullins Report post Posted December 20, 2014 Ray, Thanks for bringing up this topic. I thought all along that I had a Jake Brake (engine) on my ISL 400 Cummins. I find out after reading your post and checking with Cummins, that I have a Jacobs Exhaust Brake. That being said does anyone know where I might look for mine. It is on our 2002 Monaco Dynasty. I have excesses under the bed, on the step between the bed and closet and one in the closet. After I find it will it move by hand if it isn't frozen? If not frozen should I use spray all over or just on moving parts? If frozen will the Hi-Temp spray penetrate all parts or should I use a penetrate first and when it will move change to the Hi-Temp spray? We have owned the coach for 7 years and have never lubed the Brake. FYI my brake is activated by a switch on the floor board to the left of the steering column. Herman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted December 20, 2014 Herman, Yes, the ISL could be ordered with either an engine compression brake (Jake brake) or for less $$ an exhaust brake. The majority of exhaust brakes are bolted to the turbo, though some are mounted further down in the exhaust. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hermanmullins Report post Posted December 20, 2014 Brett, Thanks, I assume that all of the turbo and exhaust are on the same side of the engine as the muffler. So I should look between the Turbo and muffler for a flap valve. If I don't find one then I may (?) assume that I have a compression brake, right? Herman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted December 20, 2014 Herman, Best way to confirm what type of brake you have is to call Cummins with your engine serial number, but, yes if nothing between turbo and tail pipe on the exhaust side, I suspect you have an engine compression brake. Note: Most engine compression brakes are TWO STAGE, so switch would likely be HI/LO. Exhaust brakes are merely on/off. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
huffypuff Report post Posted December 20, 2014 Herman, I would assume that Jacobs = Jake and both is compressing brake. Jake brake is a better and on more expensive coaches. I only have a HR. My coach exhaust brake is made by Pacbrake but is an external exhaust brake never the less. This was on my checklist as well Rich and my wife is working on her checklist. I just seen her load 4 extra pocketbooks not including the one she will carry with her. We are less than a week to leaving for 2 1/2 months adventurer. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickandlois Report post Posted December 20, 2014 Herman, The ISL Has a Off- High / Low switch mentioned by Brett. Think this kind of depends on the chassis builders specs when the engine is ordered. So again Brett's suggestion of calling Cummings is ones best starting point. There is one more detail to consider if one is having an issue with the engine brake. There is a good possibility of a switch located in the accelerator peddle assembly. This switch tells the ECM the accelerator is up or in the idle position. This switch circuit can fail, this can cause the engine break to malfunction. Rich. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted December 20, 2014 It can be very confusing: The ISL is the only engine, to my knowledge, that came with EITHER an exhaust brake or engine compression brake. And, Jacobs Corp makes BOTH engine compression brakes (aka Jake brake) AND exhaust brakes. So the name of the company does not tell you which technology you have. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
huffypuff Report post Posted December 21, 2014 Sorry I missed one question Herman. I still had to add heat to the stuck pin to get it moving and that is after I had the other end of the cylinder removed off it's pin. Like I said, I was lucky I didn't have to remove the whole exhaust brake from the coach. The high temperature anti-seize spray helped. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hermanmullins Report post Posted December 21, 2014 To all of the "nut busters". I have a suggestion for a few News Year Resolutions for us all of us. Thank a Veteran at least once a day. Try to help someone when you see they need help or guidance. Hug someone everyday. It wont cost you a penny and will give someone a lift including yourself. May each of you have a wonderful and MERRY CHRISTMAS and a HAPPY AND SAFE NEW YEAR. Be safe and hope to meet each of somewhere down the road. Herman & Bobbie Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
huffypuff Report post Posted December 21, 2014 If you click the picture of my coach above my signature to enlarge you can clearly see the Vietnam Veteran sticker and ribbon. From one veteran to many, Thank You! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
obedb Report post Posted April 29, 2015 So! No zerks? Just spray the points shown on the link? Mine is working very well, but being the mountain lovers that we are better add this procedure to my to do list. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted April 29, 2015 ObedB, Correct. Lube just as this PacBrake document suggests: http://pacbrake.com/supplemental-brakes/fixed-orifice-exhaust-brakes/maintenance-2/ There were several vendors at the Pomona FMCA Convention with the PacBrake lube in stock-- sold a lot of it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
huffypuff Report post Posted May 23, 2015 Checked the PacBrake again today and must say I'm very pleased with the spray anti-seize I used. It is as free as the day I freed it up with the spray and did not burn off even though I put about 4,000 miles on it since. I sprayed it again today for good luck as we are heading out in the coach for the weekend. If I do this every 6 months I wont have to worry about the PacBrake seizing up again. Ocean Shores here we come. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spizzer Report post Posted June 3, 2015 Thanks, Ray, for starting this link. I went through this several months ago when I went to lube my new-to-us 2007 C7. I was trying to find a local source for the Pac brake lube everybody uses. I called the company (Super Lube) and talked to one of their reps. I told him what I wanted to use it for and he said the problem with that lube is that it doesn't penetrate very good. He recommended a spray that had a vehicle in it that allowed the lube to penetrate, and then evaporated leaving the lube behind. He recommended their product 31110. http://www.super-lube.com/super-lube-multipurpose-aerosol-ezp-68.html Now here is what puzzles me...all of the Super Lube products seem to have a flash point of 450 deg F. That seems to be pretty darn low for a component in the exhaust flow. The Permatex spray you used has a much higher flash point and seems like it would be much better suited. Anybody have any thoughts on it? I like the idea of the spray to penetrate better, but would like the higher temp performance. Thanks, jeff Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
huffypuff Report post Posted June 3, 2015 Don't confuse the brush on anti seize with this aerosol product. It does penetrate as it did loosen up the stuck pins but probably not the best out there. Seems like this will give the best protection once it is loosen up. It's active from -60 to 1600 F and I don't know of any other off the shelf product with that temperature range. The jury is out what is the what is the best rusted nut busted including some homemade stuff. Benzene mixed with automatic transmission fluid on one that supposedly work but I never tried because of the dangerous chemical. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted June 9, 2015 Spizzer, I was curious about your method of lubing, and shared it with an engineer at PacBrake. Here is his reply: Brett, In testing of exhaust brakes in, an engine compartment, with airflow over the engine. We have not seen surface (soaked ) temperatures, of the exhaust brake, exceed 400°F. The internal temperatures are much higher yes, and the flash point of the lubricant will be exceeded, however this is contained within the exhaust piping. In testing of different lubricants, Super Lube® was found to be the best at penetrating into the bushings, while also stopping corrosion from forming during periods of inactivity. Lubricants such as the Permatex® Aerosol Anti-Seize, did not penetrate these critical areas of the Exhaust Brake, Like the Super Lube® will. I hope this helps answer your Question Regards Supervisor – Lab and Testing PACBRAKE COMPANY Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
obedb Report post Posted June 10, 2015 Does the recommend lube have the plastic tube to direct the contents? Opened mine up today. Everything thing seems to be right there, but the tube would put it right where it needs to be. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
obedb Report post Posted June 10, 2015 Hit your recommended site. The pic shows a tube taped to the container. Will stop by NAPA on the way to the storage yard tomorrow. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
huffypuff Report post Posted June 10, 2015 Yes it does have a tube and once used I store inside the cap. That will make it curl up a bit but I found it beneficial for spraying around corners. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickandlois Report post Posted June 10, 2015 Thread readers should be aware that the Super Lub information posted by Brett is the Multi- Purpose Synthetic Lubricant. the part number I have is 31110. They also supply a Silicon spray, so make sure you request the proper item! Rich. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted June 10, 2015 I have always just used the lube that PacBrake sells. Available at all FMCA Conventions I have attended, and I am sure a number of dealers who sell and install the brakes as well as from PacBrake directly. From that same page: "PACBRAKE’S SYNTHETIC OIL WITH PTFE (HIGH VISCOSITY) Pacbrake’s synthetic lubricant is a premium, synthetic oil with suspended PTFE particles that bond to surfaces of moving parts providing protection against friction, wear, rust and corrosion. Ideally suited for industrial machinery and equipment, it is safe on metal, rubber, plastic, wood, leather, fabric and painted surfaces. Machinery lasts longer, downtime is reduced, and productivity is increased." And, here is where to lube a PacBrake: http://pacbrake.com/supplemental-brakes/prxb-exhaust-brakes/maintenance/ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites