RedDixon Report post Posted May 19, 2015 My Monaco Windsor, 2002 has a leak in the a/c evaporator. I am asking for advice on how to remove that little evaporator. If you have any advise I would appreciate your help. Red Dixon Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted May 19, 2015 Red, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Are you referring to the dash evaporator? Is it leaking water (condensate) or leaking R134A? Do you know the brand of the dash HVAC unit. Probably printed on it. If not, Monaco can tell you-- call them with your VIN: 877-466-6226 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildebill308 Report post Posted May 19, 2015 Welcome to the forum Red. Yes is it the dash or roof air? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickandlois Report post Posted May 19, 2015 Red, Welcome to the forum! I think I just ran into the same problem 2 days ago while checking our dash AC. As Brett mentioned, there is a drain hole for the condensed moisture to drain. So if you are seeing water - that is normal! In ours it is looking like the evaporator, but I need to remove the kick panel in front of the passengers set to see if I can spot any of the system dye. The system charges and works-- no leaks or dye at any point in the system is viable, but it slowly looses charge when running and only when it is running. The key for me is the charge level never gets up to the normal pressures - the system pressure equalizes at between 65 and 70 psi - it starts cooling and as the temperature drops the charge drops lower until it just quiets cooling. Turn off the AC and letting the system pressure equalize and the pressure is about 5 to 10 lbs. lower each time I cycle it. So, I think there might be a solder connection with a crack in it and as the joint cools, the crack opens very slightly and it allows the R134 to leak out of the system. Worked on a number of AC systems and never had this type of problem before! Pull a vacuum on the system at outside temperature and it holds for days, pressure test the system and that holds for days. This fact has me going in circles, because if it holds pressure when just setting on a pressure test why will it nor hold the proper pressure when charging ? Never any indication of a leak. The coil comes out the front in many cases, but I'm thinking it might need to be removed from inside. The problem is, I have been in the area before an I did not look real close to see that time. There sure are a number of connections and hardware in the area. Oh, if your coach kick panel is fastened the same way as mine, you might fine a small magnet handy to find the screws hiding in the carpet material that hold the panel in place. Rich. OH, I forgot to mention that I found an issue with my gas welder regulates just yesterday and maybe I have error-ed in believing that the pressure I was reading when using them to pressurize the system was giving me a faulty reading and if that is the case them maybe I need to have my AC manifold gauges checked also. Strange, but strange things happen !!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kaypsmith Report post Posted May 20, 2015 Rich, had a similar problem several years ago. When I replaced the compressor, that problem went away. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickandlois Report post Posted May 20, 2015 Kay, Thanks for the feedback! It sure has been making me fell like I'm betting my head against a wall! Interesting that there is no indication of a leek anywhere around the compressor. One would think the dye would show up somewhere on the Compressor!! Rich. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted May 20, 2015 Rich, same as kaypsmith. When I bought ours the dash A/C worked great, about a week later it was low on freon and cycling. I couldn't tell it was the compressor until I removed it, the freon and compressor oil were leaking onto my Fuel injection pump just behind the gear housing. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kaypsmith Report post Posted May 20, 2015 Rich, in my case, there was no leak. The compressor was just weak, and would not pump enough to bring the gauges up, when I added Freon the gauges would climb and cool would happen for a short while. And as you said, stranger things happen. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted May 20, 2015 Rich, When the compressor is running is your low side pulling down (usually around 35-20 PSI indicates good suction from the compressor) and the high side rising? Do you know if it is equipped with an expansion valve or an orifice tube? Sounds like you do not have a leak, more like a blockage. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickandlois Report post Posted May 20, 2015 Joe, The low side drops from the equalization pressure of 60 / 65 lbs,(when setting with the gauges connected) down to 40 lbs and continues to drop to below 25lbs. The system makes cold air and the low side drops on down to 5lbs or less. Keeps making cool air and the high side drops to 40lbs. When the system is making cold air (50 to 55degs.) the high side is running hot, but as the pressure drops to 5lbs. on the low side and 40ish. on the high side it just makes cool air. Then if I let it run, the system stops make cool air. Now, if I add freon the pressure will slowly rise on both the low and high side and go back to making cold air. The thing is the system does not go above 70lbs on the high side and will stick around 25 to 30 lbs. on the low side as long as I keep feeding the system it will make cold air, the high side gets hot and the pressure stays around 50 to 60 lbs tops. So the freon is going somewhere, an the system is dyed - with no indication of a leak in any of the visible connections or lines. No way to look into the evaporator area. So I'm thinking of opening up the system on the high and low side of the evaporator and see if it hold pressure and vacuum out of the system. Like I said, this is one strange fault !!!! Like the leak is present only when the system is running, the evaporator gets cold and then the pressures go south. Cracked solder connection on the condenser coil - that just opens enough to prevent getting a good charge level. ###!!!^^^&&& true frustration !!!!! Rich. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RedDixon Report post Posted May 21, 2015 My Monaco Windsor, 2002 has a leak in the a/c evaporator. I am asking for advice on how to remove that little evaporator. If you have any advise I would appreciate your help. Red Dixon The a/c unit is made by Specific Climate Systems. I put dye in the system and it leaked the color out the bottom of the unit in front of the dash. The motor number is #086-00347, however there is a stamp over that with a number 1404970. I can't find anyone who wants to try their hand at changing the evaporator so I ordered one from Monaco and have it ready to do myself. Any help will be appreciated. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickandlois Report post Posted May 21, 2015 Red, Look at the front portion of the heater box, where the coil is connected to the AC plumbing. The plumbing connections for the condenser likely come out of the cooling section of the heater box - where a top and bottom section screw together. Sure would be nice if it can be changed out in this manner and not have to go from the inside. Rich. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Walt2137 Report post Posted May 22, 2015 The a/c unit is made by Specific Climate Systems. I put dye in the system and it leaked the color out the bottom of the unit in front of the dash. The motor number is #086-00347, however there is a stamp over that with a number 1404970. I can't find anyone who wants to try their hand at changing the evaporator so I ordered one from Monaco and have it ready to do myself. Any help will be appreciated. Red I hope it's easier to get to than the 2000 Dynasty. I recently changed the heater core, about the same job as the evaporator is. I closed in the plastic cool box in the gen compartment on the firewall, my son had to lay across the gen (slide out) and I had to support his head so he could get to the furtherest bolts toward the passenger side also had to remove all the AC lines because the big ball of wiring harness was inter woven with the lines and we could not remove the cool box without moving the wires, so we did a complete AC service while doing the heater job. One pointer: be sure to put a shop fan on your condenser when you start to recharge the system to keep the temp down if not you will get a false hi pressure. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RedDixon Report post Posted May 24, 2015 Thanks to those who responded to my problem.......found small guy who could get inside the front and pulled the system out and replaced the evaporator in two and one/half hours......great job......thanks for you help. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
huffypuff Report post Posted May 24, 2015 Red send him to my shop. I can use him working on some of the Japanese cars I have to work on. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
