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AC Dripping Water Into Coach

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The torque is 50 pounds with a standard torque wrench. Walk it up gently. It may be time to change the seals and no it is no it is difficult, 3 or four bolts depending and the wiring Nuts. Tough part getting all the old seal up between the unit and the roof.

Bill Edwards

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Brett,

Thanks yes it is probably 50 inch pounds, Thanks for pointing that out! Some poor soul might have gotten in trouble on my account, yikes!  I am getting ready to replace the seals on the Panther and I have to look it up anyway to be sure, a normal practice. It was suggested the first time I did this to pull them down to 30 let it sit while and allow the seal to compress. Then add some more to 40 and not to go over 50. Apparently many bolts broke until some one decided to make a path torqueing them down. If they are not tight enough it will leak as it is open cell foam with an adhesive on one side to prevent movement as the AC unit is re-positioned.

 

Thanks

Bill Edwards

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Bill,

I am not a fan of torquing most of them.  Better idea is to torque until the gasket is compressed to half it's original height.  Too loose OR crushed, it will leak.

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Brett,

From the conversation I had with one of the old Safari guys at Allied the reason for torqueing was to prevent the breakage of the bolts during assembly. The seal is not easily visible and they did not have the time to run up and down to check if half way. I did what I was told and no leaks.

Respectfully,

Bill Edwards

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I was wondering about the longevity of the seals when I started tightening the bolts.  So, I just snugged them in a criss-cross fashion (gently).

Do I need to completely remove the A/Cs to replace the seals?  Or, are they split?

Thanks guys....appreciate your help!

Blake

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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All that I have dealt with about 5 now all were one piece. It isn't that hard to pull the AC as you will want to clean the roof where the old gasket  was. I used a couple pieces of 4X4 to set the AC on to keep from damaging the roof (makes it easier to pick up latter). I think you could cut a gasket and glue the ends back together but it is easy enough to just remove the unit to take the risk of not geting a good seal.

Bill

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Wildebill308 is correct, if bought and they can be gotten from Amazon for around 20 bucks each 40+ from Monaco. 4 X 4 a great idea. They are a one piece assembly. It will take you longer to remove the old seal from the roof than it took you to pull the AC unit up as it is not glued down, it just sits on the seal which is glued to the roof.

Bill Edwards

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Thanks guys!  I'll order the gaskets and install soon.  My torque wrenches won't go down to 50 inch lbs. or 4.16 ft. lbs. so looks like I get to order a new tool (awesome!).

Will give Monaco a call tomorrow to double check torque specs.

Blake

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1 hour ago, rsbilledwards said:

Bill,

  They do not glue that side as I mentioned above. If they did it would be impossible to move or reposition the AC unit.:)

 

BillE

Yes I have some experience at this, old gasket will stick to the bottom of the AC unit and if not removed may cause a leak path. The gluing I mentioned is if someone cut a gasket to install it, not what I would recommend.

Bill

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The last time I replaced one of these it was simple. I picked up the gasket from my local rv dealer. I do not remember the cost but it wasn't much. Just bring the make and model of your AC unit in with you, no seams gasket. The hardest part was removing the old gasket and glue residue from the bottom of the AC unit.

Blake, follow Brett's advice and save yourself the need to purchase a torque wrench.

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We had the problem with our rear air in heavy rains. I also found the water was above the gasket area as I was trying to find the leak. I got new gaskets and then got to work.  When I had the heat pump/ Air conditioner off to replace the gasket I found that the roof was slightly depressed where the unit sat and that with the coach level found that the unit was pitched forward. The forward pitch allowed water to get past the drains. I then cut and put 1/4" to 3/8" shims (I cut the shims myself so that the roof was fully supported) between the roof and the supporting structure so it was slightly higher and level. I put a little wood glue on to hold them in place. Reassembled everything.  Has not leaked since.

Had a good RV repairman tell me to do that. He says he has found that getting things level, not sitting in a depression and making sure the drains are clean solves most AC leaks.

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