urbanhermit

Bill -- thank you. I'll try that. Cudos for helpfulness.

Thank you -- a possibility but I don't think so. Roof and thermostat are both Dometic and there aren't any obvious signs of replacement. Awhle back the AC got disabled by a low-hanging branch breaking an electrical connnection on the roof, or so my coach mechanic told me; maybe he didn't get all the wires reconnected, but that wouldn't explain the LP system not coming on. I think if it isn't an issue of high ambient temperature, it's likely to be a defective thermostatat

Helpful and appreciated -- but why snark?

I must not have phrased my question properly. The coach has an LP furnace and a rooftop cooling unit which may be straight AC or a heat pump. I don't know which. The rooftop unit cools through a Dometic thermostat that offers "Cool," "Furn," and "HP" modes. The furnace does not come on, nor does the rooftop unit heat, in "Furn" and "HP" modes. The Coleman thermostat in the bedroom is conventional On/Off, fan Auto/Run, and temperature slide unit obviously not connected to the LP furnace. The lowest interior ambient air temperature at which I've attempted to activate the LP furnace or the possible heat pump is 80 degrees. Question is, is this too high to have the thermostat send the proper signal to either unit, or might there more likely be an equipment problem.

My limited experience is that state and Corps parks/campsites are generally booked solid months in advance, but not always, at least in Mississippi, Alabama, Georgia. We've had luck reserving less than a week in advance in state parks, particularly, in those states. Florida is a problem from Pensacola east and south. Our preference of out-of-the-way, very rural campgrounds with only basic amenities is probably helping us find berths.

Private pilots have had nasty surprises after skipping cowl-up engine inspections when a bird nest caught fire after takeoff . . . at least we won't crash.

Recently a friend with a 2012 Thor commented on how quiet Mother Superior's AC units are compared to his. MS has Dometic low profile, ducted. I think he's got Coleman. Best I can do for anecdotal information.

Circa 2006 Dometic low-profile roof unit with fancy Dometic thermostat that displays multiple modes -- Cool, Furnace, HP -- works on cool but won't turn on the LP furnace or the heat pump cycle (if there is one). Lowest I've gotten the coach interior by AC is 80 degrees. Anybody know if the thermostat requires a cooler ambient temperature to activate at least an LP furnace? (I'm not nuts -- trying to get it covered under a maintenance contract.)

Bought, seasoned, and have used a Char-Griller. Bigger and heavier than I had intended but well built. Very pleased with it, particularly the slide-out charcoal/ash drawer that makes cleaning for bay stowage a cinch. Let the coals burn out overnight and in the morning pull the drawer out, dump the ash in the fire ring, wash and brush-scrub the bottom of the drawer and the cooking grills, and put it up clean.

Just scanned this thread again, saw some responses I hadn't seen before -- thanks to y'all too. "Pooh" -- Pooh the Winnie -- is serving time at the garage while its owner hunts around auto mechanics' websites for information that will let her narrow the field of possibilities before she starts burning mechanic time shooting in the dark. Since we have Mother Superior, the Cayman 36 DP to spend money on, I'm fine with that. And speaking of: I'm an experienced boater, a Bluewater Boatyarder. We speak of "boat units." Discussing costs in terms of boat units isn't nearly as painful as using general terms for money. A boat unit is $1,000. Since RVs are boats on wheels, I propose the use of the term "RV units." Same $1,000. Example: " I had to replace the refrigerator, but it only cost a little over two RV units."

Believe I'd spend two dollars for a crystal ball like yours.

"does sound like a possibility of a defective sensor that only indicates itself when it wants to." That was my thought. 74,000 +/- runs beautifully the rest of the time. Gauge has always shown good oil pressure, about midway on the ok band. Haven't checked oil level since the last change, which was around 2,000 ago, but oil consumption has never been an issue. Before replacing the fuel pump (and the tank, unnecessarily), the engine would lose power but in a different manner -- irregular, splutters, surges, and accompanied by sledgehammer shifts. Turned out that the rubber lines between pump and metal lines were deteriorating inside. We'd found extremely fine black sediment and grey fuel in the filter that a very knowledgeable garage owner misdiagnosed as a delaminating fuel tank, but all this went away with the new pump and new rubber lines, and two new fuel filters. This last two occurrences of limp mode, weak power but steady, unvaried pull and sound, are something different. Didn't know about Godzilla, but it sounds excellent.

Dunno. Shop owner/manager read it to me from a hand-held whatever, then started reading a litany of possible causes.

Leave it to the French . . . they definitely think differently about automotive engineering than we do. I once owned a 1968 ID19. The most incredible car I've ever had, and I'd still have it if there had been good service where I lived and I'd had the money to maintain it.

That leaves a black space. I wanted to delete the whole post. UH.

Nifty ! I sit closer to the wheel than I'd like to have a comfortable reach to the gas pedal (5-10, 30-inch inseam, knees typically located). I think I'm gonna do this if I can remove the gas pedal and reattach it with the wedge in place. This guy was fortunate the pedal snapped on and off.

The rear vision monitor was mounted vertically and straight to the rear, low on the center of the dashboard of our 2006 Monaco Cayman and because of the angle of vision was worthless. I built this nacelle from fiberglass, forming it over a shaped stack of 5/8" Styrofoam batts, in a manner that requires no modification of the dashboard at all. Aims it to the left and upward. Now I can see a useable image. A mild downside is that it blocks the usage of the cup holder drawer immediately below, but there is a fold-out cup holder to the left of the seat and I may mount a second on the side of the nacelle. I'm definitely going to add one or two more cigar lighter sockets. The two shown serve a TOAD brake monitor and TPMS monitor and I need a third for the Garman GPS (dash-mounted GPS has funky software and is 14 years out of date).

I have used that phenomenon many times -- never intentionally.

Thankee, campcop . . it seems I've dodged that bullet, but getting one might be a good idea anyway.

Update: Drove it on a 5.5-mile triangle with the garage at one point, and at 19.5 miles it went into limp mode. I limped into the shop and the found a code. That's the good news. The bad news is that code can indicate anything from a poorly-seated engine oil dipstick to a C-4 explosion. Acne to decapitation. Shop owner is going to go into some mechanics's forums and see if there's any information that may limit the range of possibilities. I don't know about y'all, but ain't nuffin simple in my life.

We just replaced a well-but-honestly-soiled 2006 Mercury Mountaineer family work vehicle (not a TOWD) with a 2012 Buick Enclave. I'm a Ford guy, but I'm thoroughly impressed with the Enclave -- marvelous ride, storage bins and trays and cupholders everywhere, and it can be towed flat. We have a 2006 very basic Cobalt manual rigged as a TOWD and I'm seriously considering rigging the Enclave. The Cobalt is for sale already anyway because we've ordered a dolly for my wife's FWD compact SUV.

<raising hand> Resulted in new brakes shoes. The TOWD is a manual. I leave the parking brake set after inching the car forward or back position the car within the adjustment rage of the two bar arms, and have more than once driven off with the brake set. Conversely the same technique always has the brake set when I disconnect.

Looked into that code reader/diagnostic tool idea. Available from $70 up to over $300, but it takes the $230 level to display codes. And the counter person told me most only work with the switch in the accessory position and in my case it seems that any code reading disappears when the ignition is tuned off (mechanic told me to bring it to him in limp mode and not turn off the ignition.) So what I'm going to do today is drive in around a 10-mile rural triangle on which the garage is located until I run out of gas, go nuts, or it goes into limp mode. Think Charlie and the MTA.

That sounds suspiciously logical . . . . thankee.

Loose ground wire? Loose connection somewhere.