elkhartjim
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Posts posted by elkhartjim
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Thanks, Rich.
That was the first thing I checked...leaking valve stem. I sprayed it with soapy water and no bubbles.
I use the Centramatic wheel balancers which are great.
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Brett,
I've checked the sidewalls and I don't see any evidence of damage so I'm going to assume its something in the tread area. I'll air'er up to max and head out, stopping regularly to check'er. Its only lost 1# since about 8-8:30 this morning.
BTW...ordering a TPMS tomorrow.
Thanks for your help, Brett.
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I haven't driven it in at least two weeks other than backing out of the building a couple times so I don't think I've driven it under-inflated.
I think I will drive to the Strouhal store in the morning.
Thanks.
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I checked my tire pressure yesterday and found one of my steer tires low. I normally carry 95# and it was down to 68#. I aired the tire back to 95# and when checking today it had lost 6#. Thankfully, the motorhome is in my storage building at home. I called Coachnet regarding sending someone to repair the tire. They state that roadside assistance will not repair steer tires, only rear tires. My concern is I'm 25 miles to the closest truck tire repair and I'm somewhat concerned about driving with the possibility of the tire going flat on the highway. Coachnet says they will try to locate a tire to install to get me to a tire store.
My question...can I safely repair the tire and keep it a steer tire? Its a Michelin I purchased 8 months ago and have less than 5000 miles.
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You can download a 1993 Owners Manual in PDF format which could possibly be of some help.
http://www.winnebagoind.com/resources/manuals/operatormanuals1993.php
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Its closing the barn door after the horse gets out, but I suggest investing in an Emergy Management System. I use and highy recommend Progressive Industries. It won't keep you out of the trees but it will protect your electrical system.
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Do a forum search or google search with some key words: rv refer, rv inverters, etc.
There are numerous dicussions on these topics.
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This would be a good place to start.
One realy good place to start is at Winnebago Service Administration 800-537-1885. I have always found that the Manufactuer is the best place to begin a search with a motor home. Dealers can also help.
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Why Should you Sanitize Your RV Water System
This article will cover the Why, When and How to sanitize your RV water system for the DIY (do it yourself) RVer.
Why is Sanitizing Your RV Water System NecessaryInsuring clean, safe drinking water in your recreation vehicle is important to your health and requires sanitizing your fresh water system. Proper care and maintenance is a must.
If your RV has been sitting in storage, or has not been used for awhile, the fresh water storage tank, hot water tank and water lines are a great place for bacteria to grow and you don't want that to happen. In order to remove these problems from your RV, you should sanitize your water system.
When Should you Sanitize Your RV Water System- Do you notice a stale odor when using your water from the fresh water system? It usually occurs when water was left in the system for quite some time. It is time to sanitize the entire water system.
- Has your RV been sitting for a month or more and the RV water system has not been used? It is time to sanitize the entire water system.
- Have you filled your water tank then been informed that there is a boil water advisory? It is time to sanitize the entire water system.
- Do you have a problem with algae or slime in your tank? It is time to sanitize the entire water system.
- If you do not drink water out of your fresh water tank, you might think that you will never have to sanitize, however, if you use water from your fresh water tank for any purpose? It is time to sanitize the entire water system.
- You must remember that filters will remove contaminates such as sand and rust and will improve taste and odor but a filter is not a purifier and will not kill bacteria and other microorganisms. It is time to sanitize the entire water system.
The generally accepted method of sanitizing your RV's fresh water system as outlined below involves filling the fresh water system with a solution of household bleach and running the solution through the entire RV water system. Then letting it stand for at least four hours. Finally, flush the system to remove the bleach taste and smell.
This procedure is one you'll find in most books about RVing but be sure to read on to find out what we do.
- Read through these sanitize RV water system steps before you begin!
- Some things to consider before you start.
- Time, you need at least 5 to 10 hours to complete the task.
- Do you have internal and or external water filters? If so, you should change the filters after you have finished sanitizing the RV system.
- Do you have a hot water tank? If you do, now might be a good time to flush out your hot water tank.
- Drain all of the water out of the water system, this includes hot water tank, fresh water tank, and the water lines and then close all of the drains valves. You do not want to start this process with water that is questionable or of unknown quality in your RV water system.
- Determine the size of your RV water system, the fresh water tank plus the hot water tank and 2 to 3 gallons for water lines depending on the size of your recreation vehicle.
- Chlorine as a purification and disinfection, chlorine is an important chemical for water purification (such as water treatment plants), in disinfectants, and in bleach. Chlorine in water is more than three times as effective as a disinfectant against Escherichia coli than an equivalent concentration of bromine, and is more than six times more effective than an equivalent concentration of iodine.
- Prepare a 5% sodium-hypochloric solution using chlorine bleach (non-scented and non-gel) and water.
Chlorine Solution ChartFresh water tank size
Amount of Bleach
Mix in container
40 gallons (152 litres)
1 cup (240 ml)
4 gallons (16 litres)
50 gallons (190 litres)
1 1/4 cup (300 ml)
5 gallons (20 litres)
60 gallons (227 litres)
1 1/2 cup (360 ml)
6 gallons (24 litres)
80 gallons (302 litres)
1 3/4 cup (420 ml)
7 gallons (28 litres)
100 gallons (380 litres)
2 cups (480 ml)
8 gallons (32 litres)
- Add bleach mixture to the water tank - Never pour straight bleach into the RV fresh water tank!
- Top up the fresh water tank with water.
- Run the chlorinated water through all lines (hot and cold one at a time) for one or two minutes, you should be able to smell the chlorine.
- Top up the fresh water tank with water again.
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Let it sit for 4 hours minimum, over night is better. The most important thing is to wait the appropriate amount of time for the tank to be properly sanitized. Note: Double the bleach is not half the time
- Drain and rinse the water tank and water lines several times with fresh water.
- The water should now be safe to drink but if the chlorine odor is too strong you can add a mixture of 1/2 cup of baking soda and a gallon of water to the fresh water tank, repeat the fresh water flush.
Happy RVing!
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Have you called Winnebago customer service? I don't recall seeing a diesel pusher with a drop receiver. My Freightliner chassis does not require a drop receiver to pull either my 2005 Wrangler or 2014 Wrangler. The tow bar is almost perfectly level.
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What is the "water purifier"? Does it sanitize the water system? You don't say how often you use your mh but if it is unused for several weeks bad stuff can begin to grow in the system creating bad smells and tastes.
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Just an added comment, Jack. I installed the permanent 50 amp for this reason...theft! I recommend you purchase some means to secure the portable to the power pedestal just in case someone decides they need it more than you.
Check Tweety's.com for pricing.
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Gas or diesel? How many engine/starting batteries? How many house batteries? Do you have a converter/inverter/charger?
With the info you provided, I suspect you have a bad battery that won't allow the others to charge...of course thats a wild guess.
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X2 on the Progressive Industries.
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FYI...Exide filed bankruptcy last year. I don't know their current financial status.
I'm an Interstate Battery person also for some of the same reasons Herman has. Johnson Controls owns them along with many, many others.
Johnson Controls entered the battery business in 1978 upon acquiring Globe-Union Incorporated. Globe-Union was a Wisconsin based manufacture of Automotive batteries for both the replacement and OEM markets. Today, Johnson Controls is the largest producer of private label lead acid batteries in North America, and is becoming a leader in Asia and South America. In 2000 Johnson Controls acquired Gylling Optima Batteries AB of Sweden. The Optima Gel Battery is we
l known for its quality and longevity. Johnson Controls completed the acquisition of German automotive battery maker HOPPECKE Automotive GmbH & Co. The company has a excellent customer base that includes many of Europe’s leading auto manufacturers. Johnson Controls also produce batteries for other applications such as marine, lawn and garden, commercial, motorcycle, wheelchair, and golf cart use. Most consumers have no idea of the size of the battery giant. When people think of Johnson Controls, they think of thermostats for HVAC purposes not batteries. Johnson Controls is not only the largest North American battery manufacture, but they literally control the North American battery market.
Johnson Controls manufactures batteries for the following private labels:
Interstate Battery
Die Hard Battery
Duralast Battery
Kirkland Battery
Everstart Battery
Prostart Battery
Johnson controls also makes some or all of these batteries as well.
Acura, Advance Auto Parts, Autocraft, Western Auto, Tough One, Alliance, American Hardware, Ames, Varta, Blains Farm & Fleet, Battery Alliance, Bosch, Carrefour(Europe), Champion, Amara Raja Batteries LTD(Joint venture with Johnson Controls India).
Varta, Optima Batteries, LTH, and Heliar are all battery manufactures owned by Johnson Controls.
Johnson Controls supplies Ford Motor company, Diamler Chrysler, Honda, Toyota, Nissan, and Isuzu with original equipment batteries. So next time you go and buy a battery, or a automobile chances are its a battery made by Johnson Controls.
Product names, logos, brands, and other trademarks featured or referred to within bestbatterytips .com website are the property of their respective trademark holders.
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If you have an anode rod in your tank, don't take it out. It serves a purpose. You should remove it and inspect it. If its corroded badly it should be replaced.
When was the last time you changed you whole house water filter (assuming you have one) and sanitized your fresh water system? Also, you need to flush the water heater tank occasionally.
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Check out Lunga Park at Quantico...great park especially if you're visiting the D.C. area.
http://www.quantico.usmc-mccs.org/index.cfm/recreation/lunga-park/camping/
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On the opposite side of the airport towards Tuscaloosa, there are some RV parks, including Tannehill State Park. Tannehill does not take reservations, it is first come first serve, and most of the time there is several sites open.
Next door to Loves truck stop, there is another park which was a KOA, but has sold to a private owner, and I will check the name and phone number.
Or you can stay at my place, free of charge, Have 50 amp hookup, and in the middle of nowhere. I will also check on some other possible sites within a few days, and pm them to you.
Kay, (PS) I'm within 17 miles of the airport.
Just wondering if this offer still stands.
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RV Park Reviews has always been my go to for finding a place to stay. I do discount the 10's and the 1's because some rate all their stays as a 9 or 10 and some rate all a 1 or 2. My problem for the Birmingham area reviews is they are old reviews, some as old as 2011.
Wally World is beginning to look pretty darn good.
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Thats where I'm finding the lousy reviews, Herman.
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Bump. I'm still looking for suggestions. There are several campgrounds in the Talladega area but most don't have any current (within a year) reviews. Any suggestions for that area?
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There was a listing of FMCA members willing to drive motorhomes in a recent FMCA magazine.
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I assume you're thinking of a griddle type surface which needs to be stainless steel or coated aluminum.
Tire Repair Question
in Tires
Posted · Report reply
I've learned three things today...so far!
One, never ever just visually check your tires and think the pressure is ok. The low tire looked just like the other three but was approximately 30# lower in pressure.
Two, don't always believe what Coachnet tells you. I took my motorhome to Strouhal Tires this morning. Their business is probably 90% truck and RV tires. They said their road service will repair (patch) a steer tire if its the first such repair. Coachnet told me yesterday, no road side service will repair a steer tire - ever!
Third, the only thing we/they could find this morning was the valve stem where it attaches to the wheel was a little loose. He tightened it a couple turns to make it snug.
I'll keep a close check over the next few days and now I'm getting on the phone to order a TPMS. I had a flat last week on my Jeep and now the motorhome. I don't believe in karma but I do believe in signs.
Rich and Brett, thanks for your advice and Rich, the DW is antsy to hit the road so that wasn't the problem.
Oh yeah, I asked my contact there about the problem getting Michelins and he said he has two customers that have been waiting for almost two months. He said that Michelin was selling the tires in Asia and Europe and to the RV manufacturers here and letting the consumer wait.