chucknewman

I did have a reading (lights) although not accurate. I unplugged the shore power, and then removed the board in an attempt to reset so to speak, now the levels will not light up at all. David, Unplugging the shore power alone will not disconnect the 12 VDC to the tank panel board. Since you did have lighted LED's on the panel, you most likely pulled a spade lug connector off somewhere, or shorted 12 VDC in the panel to ground when you removed/reinstalled the board. Either can happen, even when being careful. I would find the fuse that feeds the tank monitor and see if it's fusible link is burned open. If not, and you have 12 VDC to ground on both sides of the fuse, then carefully remove the panel again and check for an unconnected wire. Also look for a secondary fuse on or around the tank panel. Some installers put them in for various reasons. Most of the monitor panels produced have simple logic circuits. They don't require, and don't have, reset circuits. That said, you may have a microprocessor controlled monitor that does have a reset button. Check your owner's manual. Non-accurate readings are not unusual. A separate subject. Lot's of info on various RV forums about that problem.

Well, it's really nice to hear others carry spare tire and water pump, etc. I carry enough equipment with us, and have more in storage, that my wife wanted to put me on the Hoarders program. I carefully explained the value of "critical components and tools", but it appeared to fall on deaf ears. Until two separate occasions in which we would have otherwise been stranded on the road. Funny, I don't hear the H word any longer, but she still sure likes that program. Ehh! I have always tried to avoid "single source" items. I really enjoy our hydronic coach/engine heating and hot water system and the comfort and versatility it affords us. But I'm also painfully aware the manufacturer (still in business) is not manufacturing most of the internal parts for this particular design. So I have been purchasing spare essential components to use when necessary. Even if never used, these items are considered insurance, just like medical or vehicle insurance. They are all nice to have when you need them. Granted, many would say just replace it with a similar unit. Well, I agree with that scenario when it's appropriate. In fact I currently have sitting in the van a new Magnum inverter that will replace the old and worn out (ripple, noise, etc.) OEM unit installed by the coach manufacturer. I just need to find the time to do it. The point here is the new Magnum will fit in the same area as the existing unit, with very little if any wiring changes. Not so with the ITR hydronic unit. The new versions are larger and will not fit in the existing area. Yes, I could put it in a corner of a storage bay with a wallet about $10K lighter, but either option is not a viable solution for me to keep the heat on. Your mileage may vary.

The best mattress we've ever had is a memory foam mattress. You can pay several thousand dollars if you like, or you can find several styles in almost any size configuration for a few hundered dollars at http://www.bedinabox.com/

Brett, Very interesting posts. Safari did it right with a Racor R90T 10 micron primary and a CAT 1R0751 2 micron secondary, plus a prime pump. But for information (and amazement) purposes, what micron sized single filter did Freightliner install in these single filter systems? Also, you used the terms "transfer pump" and "lift pump" interchangeably in this thread. Am I correct you are referring to what CAT labels the engine "fuel transfer pump" in both references? Thanks, Chuck

What was or were the code(s) given by your Silverleaf? Did they include a description line?

There was nothing "careless" about this incident. It took time, forethought, and a lot of anger. Another form of vandalism. Unfortunately, it paints a very bad picture of respectable RV'ers.

Tin cans and Pampers. I generally overlook simple fixes so now I always ask. Thank you both. Tom, it seems we have a lot in common. Most folks I know would say they feel sorry for you. lol.

Both belts were replaced. I was starting to smell a slight rubber smell at the radiator outlet when starting the engine cold. Now lower temps and no smells. I will have the thermostats replaced when I get the valve lash done in a couple weeks at the Chico dealer. Interestingly both belts had CAT part numbers but the Centralia, WA CAT dealer could not match or cross reference the number on the water pump belt. They did a physical match and it appears to be fine. Chuck

Thanks Brett and others for the great information on radiator/CAC cleaning. I had Brazels do several upgrades last week and had them clean the rad/CRC when changing to new long life coolant. Dropped my level ground running temperature several degrees. Now I just need to keep them clean. I could not get new thermostats in time for them to replace. I think I read they should be changed out every three years. That sounds excessive to me when you consider the LLC change period is 6 years. But I defer to your recommendations. If every three years, so be it. And thanks also for the recommended PAC Brake upgrade. I notice significantly more compression at low RPM/speed conditions. Chuck

The breather tube on my '98 Safari with 3126 is aft of the radiator/CAC, so no oil deposits there. Nor on the back end of the coach. But just a few hundred miles drive make a nice splattered mess on the white towed vehicle. It is a full size Ford van so, fortunately, most of the oil splatter/residue is below the headlight level on the front. I calibrated the dip stick and the engine is not over filled. Been there and that makes a bigger mess. I'm sure many CAT owners have come up with methods to minimize (preferably eliminate) the breather tube splatter on tow vehicle issue. I'm looking for any ideas. Thanks. Chuck

The article by Mark Quasius - 9/21/06 is very misleading. The theory of the first half is basically correct, but the second half description of a modified sine wave (MSW) inverter is based on 1970's inverter technology. And his statements that the clock will not run correctly and your computer power supply will burn out are correct -- if you use an ancient inverter that he describes. Fast forward folks. Since the early 90's and particularly since 2000, the best sine wave inverters are in fact MSW. But their output doesn't look anything like the diagram in this article. That diagram is totally misleading of today's technology within high quality inverters. In fact, I haven't seen any inverter sold utilizing square output that Mark depicts since the mid 80's. I posted two lengthy and detailed replies on the Escapees forum on this issue. And I used a spec sheet from one of Xantrex's most popular inverter/charger in illustrating my point. It is advertised as a sine wave inverter, but in fact is not as Xantrex notes in the product's spec sheet. And this is one of the few inverter manufacturers that are allowed to feed the various power grids in this country. Mark is correct when he alludes you cannot make a pure sine wave with electronics; you need spinning magnets. I agree, but instead of one positive and negative square wave per cycle as he depicts, modern inverters use many small square wave steps that are heavily filtered; the quality of filtration (and regulation, and frequency stability) will make it look like a sine wave to any resistive or inductive loads. During my career I used $900. Hewlett Packard laboratory voltmeters and $2.95 (on sale) Harbor Freight voltmeters; and everything in between. I still use the latter on current MSW inverters, both cheap and quality units, and they all read the correct levels. If your meter is reading 150 vac you have defective inverter or a defective voltmeter. I have seen either fail in the field. I was wondering why this MSW myth perpetuates year after year. Now it's clear, with misleading articles like this as of 2006 various groups keep throwing gasoline on an old flame that needs to extinguish. Unless you're using a 30 year old dinosaur inverter. Then all bets are off.

Thanks Brett for the quick reply. When you say If your hoses are over 3-4 years old, this is a good time to change them as well, do you mean just engine area hoses or the two hoses that run up to the front heater core as well. The latter would require a lot of time in the bays, plus dropping the LPG tank and maybe the fuel tank on my '98 Safari.

We will be in Oregon/Washington next week for cabinet and other work, and I saw Halton CAT listed as a level 1 dealer in Portland. I need oil, lube, coolant change, valve lash, etc. Has anyone used them and what was your impression of service quality? Also, I've looked into the CATRVclub web site several times (Tech Tidbits and more) but cannot find the write-up on coolant change procedure. Usually that means it's right under my nose. Can someone push me in the proper direction? Thanks.

Jim, In most cases when I've seen the intermittent operation you describe, it is either low voltage or a sticky sail switch that Brett described. Most 12 vdc relays, which your furnace will have 2 or 3, are at their lower operational limits between 11.0 and 11.5 vdc. When you have around 11.0 volts some relays will not work, others work intermittently. Either condition will not allow the furnace to function properly. Then you start the gen or plug in to the post and the furnace miraculously works because the battery charger has increased the DC voltage to normal. The actual switch activated by the wind sail (usually a light piece of composite or sheet metal) can go bad, but many times the sail gets sluggish due to accumulated airborne debris that builds up on the sail's shaft. It can be cleaned and lubricated with dry silicone lubricant. When the furnace is off and power removed of course (just pull the appropriate fuse). Larger home and commercial furnaces use a vacuum switch to sense combustion air flow. The vacuum created by flowing air closes the switch, and signals the printed circuit board to open the gas solenoid and activate the striker. The vacuum hose can get debris in it and block the vacuum, but I don't think and RV furnaces use that setup. Unfortunately, if you don't find and fix the problem this summer, it will revisit you next winter.

Many motorhomes have a CB radio. Some came with them from the factory. CB's are good to monitor trucker chatter about road and traffic conditions and any obstructions. I removed the factory installed CB and put in a better one with NOAA weather radio channels. If you caravan, CB is good for giving directions, etc. while moving with the group. If your an Amateur Radio operator, why not use the VHF unit. I presume it will cover the 6 meter and 2 meter ham bands. It will offer enjoyment during long drives and repeater access across most of the country is nice if you need help. Or just want to chat. But if you're a ham, you already know that. If you're not, what do you plan to use the VHF radio for? If you want to use FRS or GMRS, both bands are on UHF, not VHF. And the few itinerant VHF channels only allow 2 watts max. Plus they consist mostly of industrial/commercial traffic with CTCSS encoding, so you won't be able to talk to anyone anyway. And most ham/industrial radios don't make good scanners.

Brett, I couldn't find the specs on Murray's coach, but what I did see would lead me to believe his coach has a 50 amp input. Of course, I've been led down the garden path before. It IS (once corrected) wired with ONE hot, one neutral and one ground (standard RV wiring). Does he have a 30 amp service?

Murray, It sounds like you may have more than one issue going on here since you mention anomalies in both AC and DC systems. At the least, the DC system is being adversely affected by AC system issues. I have to be blunt; "...the GFI breaker in the kitchen began to smoke..." is a sign you need to get someone who understands RV electrical systems to look at your coach. I also recommend you get a copy of the "RV Repair & Maintenance Manual". Especially as a DIY, over the years it will save you countless dollars. But in the interim, unless you know the details and procedures of RV electrical and LPG systems, you need to ask a professional for on scene help.

I agree with Tom's assessment. One other thing; since the coach is relatively new, you may have a spade connector on the switch that was bent during coach construction. Typically you will have several 12 gauge or 14 gauge wires attached to the light switch using a crimped, push on connector. It is not unusual for one connector to be bent and periodically rub against another connector (short circuit). Use a small flashlight and check the back side of the light switch. I may save you a trip to the shop.

Thanks Brett, I've designed a system for my coach that will accommodate different driving conditions. And I particularly agree with the "rolling hills" scenario. You clarified an issue I was pondering during your situation in commute traffic across Houston with the PacBrake on. More opinions/comments please. Particularly on legal issues of stopping/slowing notification.

On exterior lamp fixtures it is common for oxidation to form from trapped moisture in the bulb socket. The amount and severity depends on age, fixture seal quality, long term weather conditions, etc. This can cause open circuits, short circuits, and various current "leaks" that will give unusual results. Less frequently, this can happen with interior light fixtures as well. The easiest way to prevent this is dip the bulb's contact end into silicone (or other non-particle) grease, then insert into the clean socket. A little goes a long way. Wipe any grease from the bulb's glass area. I do this on all my vehicles -- no more light circuit anomalies.

We have a '98 Safari with CAT 3126B and PacBrake. Everything works as designed, but I will be making some modifications on how the PacBrake is controlled. I have noticed many (not necessarily all) Safaris built by Monaco after about 2002 are wired wherein the stoplights come on when the PacBrake is activated (PB dash switch on and throttle not depressed). My question is twofold: 1. I don't think Monaco haphazardly builds one coach that PacBrake activates stop lights, and the next coach off the line does not activate the stoplights. Does anyone know their official rationale behind one technique vs the other? 2. Here, I'm looking for everyone's personal opinion on the subject of either exhaust brake or engine brake being in operation and activating the stoplights. Or not. Particularly in different scenarios -- downhill, flat and level, city traffic, etc. What has been your experience? Please add your comments concerning any liability or safety issues in traffic collisions you have been involved with. Thanks.

We just purchased two Palm Pre Plus phones with Verizon. They look and feel the same as the iphone/ipod touch line. They multitask, can do voice and data simultaneously, work on G3 and WiFi, and will operate from G3 as a WiFi hotspot to 5 wireless devices. They have no broadband 5Gb monthly limit if operated only on G3. 5Gb limit as a hotspot. Normal $40.00 per month hotspot fee waived. Data plan is $29.95. $600. phone no charge at this time.

In addition to possible short circuit conditions due to contaminated water, another source of the chime is low fluid level in the jack reservoir, if you have hydraulic jacks. This problem won't be rain sensitive, but it will start chiming with bumpy roads, then stop with smooth pavement.

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