chucknewman

Tom, Beside your license class/type, make sure your combined length is 65 feet or less; and the license plates on your motorhome and towed are from the same State. They may be enforcing these issues now, and they may not. It is true these areas were being enforced. I don't know the current status of activity by CA CHP. Also FYI, "Report Vehicles with Out-of-State License Plates to the CHP"is a current CHP program to find those who want to defraud CA by registering their vehicles out of state. I have read a post of an out-of-state RVer that received a letter from CHP to call them regarding a recent trip to the state. I don't know any more details of the incident. I say defraud any State or the Feds at your peril. But for legitimate RVer's like most of us, this program can put a strain on CHP administrative resources, as well as the visiting RV owner. Go to http://www.chp.ca.gov/prog/cheaters.cgi for the official skinny. Keep in mind it is something you may have to deal with at some point. Unfortunately, we have two sons that live in CA so we go back to see them periodically. If I receive one of the CHP letters of inquiry and it's not copyrighted, I'll post it. I'm sure it will be mostly "boiler plate" dialog with some location items typed in. I was a CA resident for 58 years. It used to be a great place to live. Now it's a great place to be from.

Brett posted, "The air filter minder reads total restriction between the side of the coach and the location of the filter minder pickup which is between the air filter and turbo." That is correct, but while at a CAT dealership for service the mechanic of many decades told me several times he has seen the pickup hose on the atmosphere side of the filter. This allows road dirt to fairly quickly restrict air hoses and gauge diaphragm. I would check the actual attachment point to confirm it is getting filtered air.

Laura, I agree with Bill and the Brett on this issue with one exception. The drain pipes are ABS, not PVC, at least in every RV I've owned or seen. Of course, for Bill's Prevost he may in fact have PVC. It will work OK for draining. Just that ABS is typical. The point here is don't mix different types of "plastic" pipe. Each type has it's own specific adhesive (ABS, PVC, CPVC, etc.), and using the wrong one can lead to leaks and composite material breakdown over time. ABS pipe is black and PVC pipe is white. Also be aware the "RVIA code" for drain-waste-vent systems most RV manufactures adhere to specification of a smaller drain size pipe than used in most residential applications. Measure the existing drain pipe outside diameter and look for an "end cap" fitting. Don't be surprised if you have trouble finding the size needed at local retailers. You can get then online. For information, most commercial RV washer drains connect between the black and gray tank valves, on the sewer side. Hence when connected to a park sewer drain, the sewer system gases will come up through the hose, through the washer drain (if insufficient water in the trap) and into the coach. We have personal experience with that.

From the original post "...the condenser coil is located in front under the passenger area..." and the fact most DP condenser fans are not in the front of the coach (like mine is) led my mind immediately to what is generally a complaint by the driver -- a noisy evaporator (dash) fan. My error! And it just gets worse with age. The information on the motor is correct. I have seen it many times with small electric motors to those of many horsepower. Also, every A/C system I have seen has a low pressure switch that opens the circuit to the compressor clutch. Unless you have a defective low pressure switch, or none at all, I fail to see how you manifest "short cycling" of the clutch. That said, being true for the Ford and GM products I've worked on. But I have to admit I've seen many shortcuts in the RV manufacturing industry and I can see how the absence of a low pressure switch might cause unpredictable results. But as rhuffhines said, The compressor does not short cycle and I had the freon level checked and it is OK. Believe the condenser fan was short cycling because the motor was about to go out. Replaced and all is well.

"Normally the fan is controlled via a relay that is attached to the power for the AC compressor clutch control. so if the AC compressor comes on then the fan also starts." Mike, That may be the situation with your Monaco but is not how dash fans work. With every car, truck, and motorhome I've owned the fan is controlled by a separate fan switch on the dash -- not compressor cycling. Simply because you use the fan year round to blow air whether cooling, heating, or just getting fresh air. The last two scenarios have nothing to do with the A/C compressor. In all vehicles with a fan "OFF" position I've seen the reverse -- the A/C compressor is held off until the fan switch is activated. The rational is you don't need the A/C compressor running if you don't have air moving at the dash. When switched on, the fan runs continuously. It is true that when using the defroster setting for heat in the winter the A/C compressor will cycle. This is to keep the A/C hose seals lubricated during the winter months when the A/C system generally is not used. But the dash fan does not cycle on and off. A fan motor with a bad bearing or other shaft alignment issue will make noise and can have excess friction that will open the motor's over temp switch when the fan overheats. After it cools, the switch closes and the process of intermittent air and noise begins again. The A/C system's low freon pressure switch will inhibit the compressor clutch from working at all until the system is properly charged.

Does your comment "We no longer have a land line...we have cell phones and MagicJack. Our security monitor has a cellular unit which we liked better than a land line connection..." mean you have a cable TV connection? Presumably so if you are using MagicJack because the latter will not work via HughesNet satellite Internet. If you have cable Internet their are lots of IP based cameras and temp/power/driveway/alarm monitoring systems out there to choose from. Hopefully your cable system is more reliable than one we used to have. In a rural area, you lose AC power to a single amplifier and everyone downstream from that point lose their cable TV, VOIP telephone, and Internet.

Gary, I noticed in Google engine you have posted this question on several boards. Your statement "My coach batteries was overcharging, boiling, fuming..." has nothing to do with the isolator. Overcharged batteries are the result of inverter/charger or alternator regulator issues. If the coach batteries are overcharging when driving, then the engine batteries will do the same. This is the result of a defective alternator regulator. If the engine batteries are OK and the coach batteries are overcharging when the coach is plugged in, you have a inverter/charger or converter problem, depending on what is installed in your coach. The isolator merely directs DC voltage from the alternator connected to the center terminal, to both outside terminals. One outside terminal is connected to the coach batteries; the other outside terminal is connected to the engine batteries. The two outside terminals are "isolated" from each other so one set of batteries will not send current into the other set of batteries. It has no voltage regulation characteristics. That is the function of the battery charger/converter and vehicle alternator. Check the coach batteries when charging while plugged in. They should be between 13.2 vdc and 14.0 vdc(depending of state of battery and type of charger) when fully charged and receiving a maintenance charge. Shut off all DC operated appliances and lights, HWH, furnace, fans, etc. to get an accurate charge reading. I would imagine you will see over 14.0 vdc continuously which will boil out the electrolyte in the batteries.

"Many States require braking for any trailer over 1,500# and I think all require braking if the trailer if over 3,000#." And the California Highway Patrol considers a towed vehicle to be a trailer. It is logical that most other State's patrol services hold the same conclusion about "towing a trailer".

I found the information for this control system. It is at the link below. FF (not EE) is normal during a system reset as described in the manual. I would venture to guess the control wires to the furnace are open circuit. Simple troubleshooting instructions are in the manual. Good luck. http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/ccc5.pdf

On most digitally controlled appliances "EE" indicates an error. And you obviously have one. Unfortunately, it does not give you a specific error code as most will in order to know exactly what input/output is disturbing the central control unit. I recommend calling Duo Therm customer support. They may be able to give you some ideas. Is this unit in warranty? If that is not helpful, locate the DC fuse for the control unit and the furnace. Pull both out for at least 10 minutes. Replace the fuses and note what you have. It is apparent you have a problem with either or both the furnace, the control unit, or the interconnecting wiring. If the above "reset" of both appliances does not resolve the issue, you will need to acquire the maintenance manual and wiring diagrams for the appliances and troubleshoot. Or pay someone else to do it.

romanpaula, Congratulations on taking the plunge to drive your motorhome. Yes, you can do it just fine. I've driven everything on the road safely since 1962, but I'm a lousy instructor. We are sitting in a rest stop in Alabama and I already have seen several women drivers of 18 wheelers. And they are driving well. I'm sure they had butterflies in the beginning just as I did when your actually moving and controlling several tons of mass down the road for the first time. That said, I can offer several basic tips. Just about all the above posted information is accurate and recommended so I won't repeat it. But a few basics to keep in mind when driving. Have you ever driven a van? A class A motorhome is basically just a big van. It's longer, wider, and heavier. With that in mind always remember: 1. Depending on the length and wheelbase of your MH, you will need to pull farther forward to clear an object you are turning around; like a curb, stop sign or lamp post. 2. Your MH is much heavier than a van or car, so it will not slow down or speed up as quickly as a van or car. You have to scan the road and plan your moves considerably farther down the road in a MH than you do in a van or car. The larger and heavier the vehicle you are driving, the farther you need to scan the road for potential problems. 3. And your MH is wider that a car. You will learn quickly you need to place yourself in the driver seat a little more toward the left side of a lane than you would for a narrower vehicle. If you place yourself in the same area of a lane with the MH as you would your tow vehicle, you will continually be driving on the fog line. That's not a really bad thing; that is until you come upon Interstate construction with concrete barriers where the fog line used to be. Develop good habits early in your practice sessions. 4. Always remember you will drive where you look. If you focus on the center line or the fog line you will drive onto it. If you focus too long in either rear mirror you will drift in that direction. This has been known for decades and professional truck/bus drivers have learned to consciously avoid when scanning side mirrors of their vehicles. With practice, you can do the same. Remember, instead of driving a 6 or 6.5 foot wide vehicle you now are driving a 8.5 foot wide vehicle and you have much less "wiggle room" in the lane. Especially 2 lane roads. 5. That said, you should check each mirror every 5 to 7 seconds. Don't focus on it more than 1 second; which is longer than most folks realize. Actually look at the mirror and mentally say "one thousand one" then eyes back to the road. The same with the other mirror. As you practice this exercise you will begin to note in 1 second you can see the status of your vehicle side, lane placement, vehicles on your side and to your rear. As noted in an above post, it is extremely important to know what is going on around you at all times. 6. Driving a large vehicle is enjoyable, but it is not the time to relax as you may in the family SUV. In fact, the same mileage in our motorhome or bus is much less stressful that the same mileage in our van. I've done both. But driving a large and heavey vehicle demands a greater attention to driving than a typical car. Some find this easier than others, but you must see the "big picture" around you and far down the road at the same time to allow for reaction and/or stopping time necessary to avoid problems on the road. 7. This is true for motorcycles or big rigs; always drive as if most other drivers on the road don't see you. Because in reality, regardless of vehicle size you are in, a too high percentage of other drivers don't notice you until it's too late. You have to be proactive and defensive in large vehicle driving. This is basic stuff, but I'm seeing the results of it not being stressed in on-road driver training. Even with some newer truck drivers. Sure, you learn by doing, and we all make mistakes, but we get better at anything only if you learn by and make a concerted attempt to not repeat your mistakes. I think a question about cross winds came up somewhere in the thread. Wind affects vehicles based on their weight, height, shape, ground clearance, and chassis design. Our Safari with a 30,000lb Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) is much more difficult to control in windy conditions than our 40,000lb GVW bus. And that with $7,000. of steering and stabilizing enhancements installed on the MH. It is much more stable than it was, but the primary problem is a lighter front end, and the MH having considerably more ground clearance than the bus. So the wind is not only pushing on the MH but is lifting the MH to some extent -- both reducing stability in that condition. With little or no wind, it drives great. But I like the fact I can get under it easily when I want too, compared with a low clearance vehicle with several safety issues crawling under it. The point I was trying to make above is no matter what MH or chassis you have, most can be stabilized more to some extent. It really comes down to your driving preferences and compromises (size, money, etc.) you're willing to make. And always remember you're not in the family sedan or SUV. Large vehicles take alertness and awareness all the time when moving. But absolutely, yes you can do it as well as anyone else. Good luck in your new venture. Chuck

As stated, you will need both a base plate and a tow bar. Many types and sizes of tow bars to choose from, but the base plate must be sized for the Jetta. Check out the links below: http://www.etrailer.com/towbar-2001_Volkswagen_Jetta.htm http://www.jcwhitney.com/tow-bars/volkswagen-jetta/c12393d14322j1s21.jcwx http://www.blueox.com/ http://www.rvamerica.com/TownTalk/RVAmericaForums/tabid/79/forumid/1/threadid/248388/scope/posts/Default.aspx Chuck

Gerard, welcome to the FMCA forums. "...were wondering what we should do if we are in severe weather" Not to appear trite, the answer to that question is dependent on who you ask. We all have our thresholds for driving in bad weather. What is yours? I enjoy driving in the rain, but not snow and ice -- regardless of vehicle type or size. That said, we recently delayed a trip for one day due to NWS's forecast for "extreme weather" in the area we were in. The next day was sunny and beautiful. We had a great trip. The key for us is keep an eye on the regional and/or national forecasts and travel accordingly. If you get into a major thunderstorm and can't see the road, pull as far off the road as possible without getting into soft dirt, and keep all you lights on including the emergency flashers. Various Federal agencies have recommended procedures when encountering flooding, tornadoes, blizzards, etc. And sometimes you just cannot avoid stuff for a variety of reasons. But the more trip planning for impending weather, road conditions, town and rest stop locations, fuel stops, etc. you do will result in minimized exposure to varied dangerous conditions.

Our four door model has a not-real-obvious black slide lock on each door that is supposed to keep the door from opening. They are a supplement to the door pull handle latch. It would be logical that Norcold put these on their two door models also. We never used them as our door pull handle latches work fine and never opened in transit. In fact our slide locks would extend periodically when opening the door causing us to push the lock back into place in order to close the door. I took them off. Look inside the pull handle area where the tips of your fingers grab the pull handle for a horizontal plastic tab. Slide it toward the door jam to lock the door in the closed position. It's apparent Norcold added these slide locks since some doors would open in transit. This also can be affected by the amount of content weight you have on the door. Make sure the three screws on each door hinge are tight. And the "plumb" of the doors is adjustable to get maximum grip for the pull handle latch bolt. Maybe the latter adjustment is all you need.

kellyds, I agree with all the tire loading rhetoric above, but disagree with using everyone else's air. Too many times I have found air systems with bad connectors that won't fill properly, low pressure, hoses that won't reach tires (at truck stops), and trying to fill with residual diesel on the ground, drivers lined up behind you, etc. I purchased a dual tank air compressor from Harbor Freight for about $100. It cuts off at 135 psi. Weighs about 25 lbs and is about 2.5 feet square. It sits in the front center of the storage bay. I put ball valves and quick connect fittings on it to match my assortment of hoses and gauges, fillers, air guns, etc. It is a liquid oil unit that is much quieter than the "oil-less" units like the portable unit referenced. You barely hear it with the bay doors open. And I have four gallons of air always available for quick job like blowing out my electric shaver. I find it much easier and less hectic using it at a camp ground than trying to do it at a truck stop or other industrial situation. And I use it for the tires and air bags on the van, our bicycle tires, blowing off dust/dirt, etc. I find it very handy and convenient.

I agree. I heard it was the Pacific Coast Highway, SR1 that will be closed for some time. And the latest round of storms there will only delay the process. Even if it was open, I would not recommend anyone driving any coach over 25 feet with tow vehicle. Unless you are in good shape, and considerably above average in keeping your vehicle in your lane on numerous hairpin turns that are narrow and sharp, I would not recommend SR1 from Monterey to Morrow Bay. Most commercial trucks are banned for that reason. And even if you have a very short tow vehicle, you will be over 50 feet combined length and their is no place to pull over and rest/view the scenery unless you find a pullout void of any cars. And that never happens. It is a beautiful drive in good weather in a tow vehicle. Safely piloting a large vehicle on that road, and all you will see is pavement and the copilot will have a wonderful view.

Hi Rhuffhines, Welcome to the FMCA forums. This topic was discussed recently on the forum. Go to Happy future motorhoming to you both. Chuck

Most high efficiency panels will get warm; partly from the sun's infrared radiation, and partly from generating current in the panels substrate. For most you need air circulation all around the panel. That said, their are some panels that don't generate much heat or transfer much solar heat to the backing material. Presumably, if the manufacturer says zero clearance required, then that's the case. But anything I mount on the roof with zero clearance has a healthy bead of Dicor self-leveling sealant under and around it. Regardless of the type material composing the roof seal, you don't want standing water captured under anything that will lead to corrosion and mildew. And a dirt catch that will cause side wall streaks with moisture. With metal frame panels, "S bracket" mounts are best. Particularly if your roof is not perfectly flat. Then again, some panels flex and cannot use the S bracket type of mount. Call the manufacturer and voice your concerns. Many times a telephone call to customer service makes a lot of difference.

Tupelo, Shields has a good list of checks, particularly the door seal issue. When you looked into the top vent was the cooling unit condenser clean and clear of debris? Also could you feel the air movement from the two fans? The fans won't come on unless the outdoor temp is fairly high. Have you had a week of hot weather? "It runs on both gas & electric & doesn't show any faults" But for a fixed temperature setting on the panel, does it cool better in either gas or electric mode of several hours? What range is the temperature set on the eyebrow panel? Even though the refer is relatively new you may have a defective thermistor on the cooling fins. It's easier to test on a Norcold than a Dometic. Speaking of cooling fins, do you have a lot of ice on them that covers the gap between fins? And as noted, keeping the refer level when not on motion is critical for long term cooling efficiency. Unless it is turned off.

Tim, Regarding quality, I only know what I read from dealers/installers who have used (and sell) Amish cooling units via hours on the Internet. More importantly to me, I have consistently heard good reports from purchasers of Amish this and that products. They have a different work ethic and it shows. Will the Amish cooling unit last longer? I would think so but their are very few guarantees in life. The Amish cooling units are "supposed" to have thicker tubing and a re-engineered system. But as with anything, you pays your money and you takes your chances. Norcold told me I only needed the high temp sensor modification, then they said I needed a complete new cooling unit. Being full-timers working in south Texas, I wasn't about to leave the coach for several days (literally) at a dealer. So I had J.D.'s Mobile Home Repair out of Kingsville, Texas come out and do the job. They are a Norcold approved dealer and that's a laugh. Typical RV types that won't read simple instructions because they think they know everything. "We've done these before". Yea, they have but not my model. But that's another story. Bottom line is I have a new cooling unit and high temp circuit board. As much as their workmanship gripes me, I'm glad they did it in the coach because I found out how easy it is to change one of these cooling units out -- if you follow the instructions in the proper sequence. Like everything else in these RV's, it definitely is not rocket science. Though many would like you to think so. And while the unit was out, it allowed me to clean out the enclosure, and take measurements and pictures for possible household refer install in the future if this cooling unit doesn't last.

To add to Bill's post, when you get your new voltmeter, also purchase a bag of (fairly) large clip leads. Clip directly to the generator's starter post and chassis ground. Be careful as this will be hot at battery potential. You should see 12 vdc to 14 vdc from the house batteries while the RV is plugged into shore power. Position the meter so you can watch it when you activate the local gen start switch. This is so you don't need a second person to be at the battery bank while the other starts the generator. If the voltage drops below 9 vdc and the gen will not properly turn over, you are looking at undercharged/defective batteries, a wiring problem, defective starter, or defective circuit board/switch.

skyking8, Lee and Paul might be interested in the make and model systems you have used, if the manufacturers still are in business. "...I have never understood why someone would point their camera at the hitch and not into rear traffic. Watching what is behind you is far more useful than the unlikely event of the hitch coming loose." I can't agree more. Plus, after you use the camera for awhile, you will know exactly where the towed is supposed to be. If it breaks away, it will suddenly lurch back and not be tracking the coach properly as the safety cables do their job. All of which will get your attention on the monitor. Also Skyking8's point on 12 vdc is important in that you don't want to buy a system that requires 120vac. True, most of those systems have a plug in transformer that puts out DC, but many times the DC requirement for the camera or monitor is 5vdc, 9vdc, or some other voltage that the designer opted for. Unless you have 120vac outlet close to the camera and monitor location (very rare), you want to be sure you purchase equipment that will operate on 12vdc.

I have to echo everything Brett said above. Though not the same person mentioned at the CAT rally, one of my brothers-in-law is a top level manager in CAT parts in Peoria/Morton IL. The parts shortage issue does not exist. In fact just the opposite. The global demand slowdown for new engines created much larger sales in the parts division. So much so they are now in the process of hiring several hundred personnel in parts division to accommodate that demand. Keep an eye out. You may see a new CAT over-the-road engine in the near future. But I didn't tell you that. Chuck

Lee and Paul, First off, Lee welcome to the FMCA forums. After 4 decades working with wireless (yes their has been wireless long before WiFi), I can say most of the time you are much better off with a hardwired installation -- be it audio, video, data, whatever. That doesn't mean I am anti-wireless, but that statement is based on years of both hardwire and wireless projects. And certainly video wireless offers flexibility and easier installation than hardwire, but the engineering trade-offs of speed and noise immunity, among other parameters, are considerable in many cases. OK, engineering class is over. Very simply, you can run RG-6 cable on the roof inside split loom for protection. Most "professional" installers don't even use loom, but I am more conservative than most, because it does protect the wire/cable. You can also run RG-6 (and other cables) under the RV. I have both configurations on my coach. Where the underside cable(s) cannot be run next to the frame rails or inside a storage bay (using split loom in all occasions), I run the cable through the very durable but flexible plastic electrical conduit (at Home Depot and Lowes) for road debris protection, anchored every 2 to 3 feet. It also works well for hydraulic hose protection. Take your time and plan the cable runs. I generally take much longer planning a job than the actual installation. All that said, most folks will recommend wireless because it is easier to install. And most of the time the performance is acceptable for the application. That said, you need to be aware of a few pitfalls with wireless: Some wireless video systems use 400 MHz spectrum; some use 900 MHz spectrum; some use 2400 MHz spectrum. Any of the above can and will suffer interference from time to time. And not only from another user on frequency. These devices do not have the hardware selectivity necessary to be immune from broadband radio frequency and impulse noise. So, you will have an acceptable picture most of the time, but the video will degrade sometimes. And that will happen (when it does happen), more so in urban environments -- typically when you need the camera the most. For me, a fading or noisy video screen is a distraction from my driving. Make sure anything wireless is not tunable. It will drift with vibration and you don't want to have to mess with a potentiometer while driving. Or anytime for that matter. Usually the more costly units are locked oscillator designs and more stable. Literally, 6 inches of revised placement can make the difference between acceptable video and complete noise on screen. If you go wireless, mount the camera and/or transmitter where you want it, then connect the receiver unit to the video monitor or TV (depending on how you use it), and test it in various locations for a good signal before permanently mounting it. Generally speaking, since the camera/transmitter is mounted high on the back wall, the receiver will get the best RF signal when it is mounted high in the front overhead -- if possible. This keeps the receiver away from the heavy steel of the chassis (as in under the dash), that has much more RF attenuation (reducing) capability than light weight aluminum and fiberglass. I ran into that very issue when installing a wireless tire pressuring monitoring system in my coach. Running a multi-conductor cable from the overhead cabinets (receiver location) down the window post to under the dash (computer location) took some time, but I included other cables needed for other systems at the same time, so I had to remove the various covers and fish everything through only once. A friend of mine, with a burned out monitor, said "... I only need to see if the tow is back there from time to time." Actually, you also need to see if it has a flat tire (smoke and debris); if the tow is on fire; if someone hits it --whether they run or not; how well it tracks behind the coach -- particularly in tight turns; how close the 18 wheeler is behind you; whether you have an engine fire in your pusher; and on and on. I don't have any particular manufacturer recommendations. I purchase on type of use and equipment specifications, so I have components from different manufactures. For the non-technical, a package system is the best choice, but that will generally get the highest prices. The best recommendation is from the tried and true, so I will differ that issue to others who have purchased various systems.

Looking at the "FMCA Member Benefits Guide" on page 103 of the January 2011 issue of the magazine, I'm not sure what "holes" you're talking about. It is merely a guide to services/activities FMCA offers directly or through third parties. The guide may appear to be full of holes due to the fact many, if not all, the services listed are covered by separate written agreements. For example the listed Roadside Assistance. When they describe the "Travel Guard plan", read the third paragraph: "Note: This description provides an overview of the policy features only and does not cover all the terms, conditions, and limitations." Everything on these eight pages is an "overview" of the respective subject. As a member of Coach-Net I read this overview and it is technically correct. But when you actually purchase one of their plans, you get a Member Benefit Guide. This Guide states it is the gospel, and nothing else verbal or written (like any contract legalese) is binding on either party. In simple terms, especially when push comes to shove, if it isn't written somewhere in a binding document signed by both parties, then it doesn't exist and does not have to be honored. No matter what anyone tells you about their product or service, they and you are subject to the written terms, limitations, and conditions. Even the IRS will tell you their verbal telephone support does not mean anything during an audit. We have been in FMCA since 1993 for the fellowship, rallies, and the magazine. All the other "services" listed we don't use or use another that give us either more benefits, or less cost, or both. On the fuel issue, FMCA had and presumably still has an agreement with Flying J on fuel discounts for members with a Flying J RV card. I never got into the specifics about this since I have a trucking account with them. But I can tell you since the acquisition of Flying J by Pilot, the fuel savings over time has diminished dramatically. So much so I frequently do better at Loves with their reward card than either FJ or Pilot.