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dickandlois

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Posts posted by dickandlois

  1. Posted · Report reply

    Ray, From your description it sounds like there is a problem in the planetary gear section of the gear box. 

    Most common problem is the bushing that keeps the center shaft centered in the gearbox. It wears an oblong hole in the casting. Fixable with the proper equipment.

    Getting the slide out opened takes a little extra manpower and removing as much of the load without dissembling everything helps.

    Rich. 

  2. Posted · Report reply

    On 3/8/2019 at 8:28 AM, ronandsue74 said:

    During my recent trip to Florida I noticed that my engine cooling fan was not consistent. When it's working properly, the fan will go to high speed at 206F degrees and cut back to low speed at 182F. During this trip the fan would switch to high speed and remain on high keeping the engine temp at 177-179 degrees. Then for no apparent reason it would go back to operating normally. I was not able to determine any consistency to this erratic behavior. The fan might run on high for an hour or two then suddenly start working normally again. Turning the engine off and restarting didn't seem to make any difference. I have hard wired the Sauer Danfoss controller and checked all connections that I thought might be the problem. It is my understanding that my air conditioner has the ability to turn my fan on high when my evapertator needs more cooling. I would like to investigate this but I don't know how. Any advice on how I can check this out would be appreciated. 

    The coach is a 2005 Country Coach Inspire 330 with a Cat C-9 Engine. My fan controller is a Sauer-Danfoss 1090385 S/N:1215877. This is the three pin controller that gets its input directly from my ECM. It does not have sensors like some of the Danfoss controllers have. Due to the inconsistency of the problem I'm thinking it's not the solid state controller itself but its getting erratic input or perhaps something else I'm not thinking of. 

    Thank you, CCRider

     

     

     

    Thinking the issue might be in the Hydraulic Valving that controls the fan speed. The setup can be quite different depending on model and year.

    The issue can be caused by wear of motor vane material - that can contaminate the HY fluid. 

    Question: is the cooling hydraulics driven off the transmission or a separate system that needs some TLC, perhaps including new fluid and filter replaced.  

    Rich.

  3. Posted · Report reply

    On 3/9/2019 at 7:21 PM, jleamont said:

    Bill, our Atwood in the last coach had the same issue. Started to squeal at the beginning of a cross country trip thanksgiving day (of course). I did exactly as Brett recommended and it got me a few months of quiet fan operation. Replacing the motor was simple and make sure to order the fan wheel, I did and it was a good thing as the original was stuck on the motor shaft and the plastic was brittle. If I remember it was less that $20 for the fan portion. 

    Joe,

          Some of the motors are easier to R and R then others.  I have removed the Blower housing to replace the sail switches - While doing that job one can also clean the motor shaft bushing and apply some silicon grease to the shaft and bushing(bearing) area.  Note, These motor blower bushing are open to dirt and dust.

          The best product to clean them that I have found is CRC spray. It removes all the old lubrication along with the dirt.  Spray some Silicon on the shaft and bushing while the motor is running. Nice thing is they run on 12 volts, but keep you fingers clear on the blower (squirrel  cage) They can wack a finger and that can brake the blower also!

    Motor part number is related directly to the system BTU's 

    Field  vice - 2 pieces of 2X4 held together with bungee cord(s)

    Rich.

  4. Posted · Report reply

    21 hours ago, Bobmid said:

    Thanks very much for all the opinions.  I've decided I'm going to find a welder and get him to tack some more bolts on the frame and I'll go ahead and reinstall it.  It's there, so might as well put it back on.  Again, THANKS for the help!!!

     

    Bobmid, FYI. No welding should be performed on the coach, until the power is removed from the engine and transmission control boards. 

    Best plan would be to contact the Chassis builder for the correct info before proceeding . 

    Rich.

  5. Posted · Report reply

    Journey odd electrical problem - Water intrusion , caused 3 contacts to short together.

    This is a picture of the part that was at the heart of the problem on this coach. Freightliner Chassis. The switch is attached to the park brake system - drivers side, close to the frame and rear axle. 

    There was a relay buzzing sound. The issues caused are covered in post preceding this picture. Along with the circuit numbers in this case.

    Can be like looking for a needle in a haystack.

    Rich

     

    Park Brake Pressure Switch.pdf

  6. Posted · Report reply

    fagnaml,

    To help assure good diesel fuel quality (lubricity, corrosion protection, detergent properties, prevent oxidation, etc.), I, like several other forum members, routinely use the Power Service "Diesel Kleen and Cetane Boost" additive available at your favorite Walmart.   Diesel Kleen is the only additive endorsed by Cummins --> https://www.businesswire.com/news/home/20170510005497/en/Cummins-Officially-Recommends-Power-Service®-Diesel-Kleen

        Always add the White bottle  because we live well north of RT 40, That is an arbitrary line mentioned by Power Service.

             Question pertaining to Biocid's .  I had a bottle of it crystallize, was that due to cold weather or evaporation in hot weather?  Keep some added when we are setting for more then 30 days.

    Rich. 

  9. Posted · Report reply

     I did run through that routine during the summer when I first realized I had a problem. The voltage leaving the resistor panel and the voltage at the headlamp sockets were the same. If I remember correctly, about 11.9v.

    That being the case  you should be able to pick up close to 2 volts with a DC to DC converter. That extra would make a big difference in candle power.

    Rich.

     

  10. Posted · Report reply

    31 minutes ago, wolfe10 said:

    Though using resistors to lower voltage may be simple, I sure hate to see an alternator work harder to have that energy turned into HEAT in the resistors.

    Historical equipment was built to work - no real consideration of efficiency. That is why AC won over DC, but big generators did not travel  well. 

    Rich.  

  11. Posted · Report reply

    Richard, 

    Voltage going to the resistor panel is where it should be. All four headlight circuits are providing over 24v with engine off and up to 28 with it running. The problem was apparently downstream from that. I removed the resistor panel and cleaned every connector and terminal. Everything visibly looked good - no broken resistors or wires, no corrosion, etc. Best I could get for output was 11.9v which is simply not enough for the sealed beams to shine bright enough.

    Lets try a different approach. With any one of the headlights removed, what is the dc voltage reading to a good chassis ground? What is the reading between the head light wiring  ground and the 12 volt light feed. this is just a voltage reading. subtract one voltage from the other, what is the difference? 

    Got a good digital meter?

    What is the  resistance reading between the headlight socket pins.?  not plugged in, No Power / light plugged in,  lights power  turned off,    Measure the filament resistance again . Write down the number(s).    

    Trying to see if there is a voltage drop difference between the harness wiring and a know good ground at a point on the frame. with some known numbers -seeing what you have /com paired to what the math come out to. Where is the voltage drop / resistance being injected/added?

    Rich.

  12. Posted · Report reply

    Richard, Your 24 volt system should be a very stable source of power ! So there should be no need for a cap to filter the things.

    The resister divider you picture is old school but very reliable - only time one of them fail is when something shorts out. The lights should be fused to prevent any damage though. Oxidation or loose connections are the most common problem in the circuit pictured. 

    The box you are looking at is a DC to DC converter, that is designed to convert 24 volts to 12 volts. A very Common practice in today's world. 

    Are you saying that one of the headlights is not working or is just dimmer then the other?

    FYI. I got the last list of items you are hoping to get some info on and will keep looking around, sending things as I find them. Will keep you in the loop.  

    Rich.

  13. Posted · Report reply

    9 minutes ago, JMarske said:

    Our dash air only blowes not air. The AC light won't come on at all. We've look for a fuse and can't find one. Any help would be appreciated.

    Need you to post the Make, Model, Year and class of the Coach to narrow things down.

    Rich. 

  16. Posted · Report reply

    Edward,  Welcome to the FMCA Forum !

    A new item to me, this might prove helpful. Will look around some more.

           http://itrheat.com/products/rv-trailer-mobile-heating-system/

    Rich.

    This Looks like it might be a service manual ? Parts list?

    file:///C:/Users/Data%20Base/Desktop/Oasis_Service_Manual.pdf

    This should get you some good contact info. to start looking for parts.

    http://itrheat.com/

    The Mechanical layout and physical dimensions of the components could be challenging . Looks like there are about 10 lbs. squeezed into a 5 lb. space.

  17. Posted · Report reply

    5 minutes ago, manholt said:

    Rich, I'm thinking he want's to have a back up for coach! :P

    Maybe thinking of one for the sticks and bricks then for the road. The other advantage is the old style turbines can be rewired and setup different then the newer ones.

    Up North where ice storms are more common - we tend to loose grid connections, have an old 4 KW handy to keep the house warm and the lights on. also can make ice for 4 months of the year, keeping food cold for half the year not as challenging. Much like your home stomping ground.

    Rich.

  20. Posted · Report reply

    6 hours ago, wolfe10 said:

    Rich,

    The isolator you mention is diode-based.  Unless the alternator has an external sense terminal connected "downstream" of the isolator, charging voltage will be about .7 VDC LOW due to loss to heat in the diode.

    And, not sure how it could be used to charge from 120 VAC converter or charger.  You sure wouldn't apply converter output to the center post which would back-feed the alternator.

    At least the only bi-directional systems I am familiar with are solenid-based, not diode-based.

    Brett, This is the system used on our original Fleetwood gas unit. Kind of small -with a good current level. 

      Yes all diode systems have a .7 volt drop and the standard alternator regulator voltage is 13.5.  It should not need any wire larger then a good transfer switch (ATS) 

    Rich.

    See Nan mentioned that the Switch measured good, but not sure that one is mounted in the Bounder or the Sun Seeker.

     

  23. Posted · Report reply

    4 hours ago, bigburgy said:

    I've got a 2007 Tiffin Phaeton 35DH and have the same intermittent (very frustrating) air compressor alarm problem.  I've read about the LBCU and was planning to call Freightliner today, give them my VIN and see what they tell me but based on what MARKLETHERIDGE said above that he replaced that and it didn't fix the problem I'm worried I'd be spending good money for nothing. That said, I've hear that others have replaced the LBCU and if fixed their problem...Any word on whether or not the VDU was in fact your problem on your 2008 Fleetwood Discovery? Thanks

    Do you have an air pressure alarm only when driving or is it sounding when park brakes are set also?

    Have you contacted Freightliner and asked if your model year chassis use the VDU module?

    It is difficult to offer good feedback with limited information on how your chassis is setup.

    Rich.

  24. Posted · Report reply

    Rod,  The electric set drive circuits have a Current limiting circuit in most cases. This is a safety circuit to protect a person from being hit or trapped under them as they extend or retract. 

    So if you step on them as they are moving - they should stop moving quickly. Good test of the current limiting circuit. If they stop, then that circuit is working properly.

    If the steps keep moving - then the control module most likely needs to be replaced. A clicking sound is not nominal !

    Rich. 

  25. Posted · Report reply

    1 hour ago, pollonbeeche said:

    My coach is a 2006 Holiday Rambler Vacationer Diesel with a front entry. Recently the electric step started to act strangely. 

    When I close the door the step goes in all the way and it starts to jump 4 or 5 time like it is jumping a tooth on the gear the it settles IN when I open the door it come OUT fine, the problem is only when it goes in. The motor and the control module are about 3 years old. The step gets a little of a beating because it lays low and sometimes it drags if I go over a dip or I enter a steep driveway.

    Any advices on what to do before I start replacing parts, I will probably replace the motor first. I would appreciate any advice.

    Rod

    Rod, Think it would be a good to look at the mechanical parts an use a good spray lubricant like TriFlow. It is a very good Lubricating oil and penetrating oil. 

    WD-40 is a good water dispersing spray, but weak in lubricating department.

    Rich. 

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