dickandlois
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Posts posted by dickandlois
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8 minutes ago, huffypuff said:If you think things are complicated with r-134a, wait until you have the deal with 1234yf.
Think you are right. Things are going nuts as the industry looks for the best Freon Mix.
R 410, R 32, R 55 and the list go's on and on . The issue that makes servicing the system and Freon differences is the operating pressures and temperatures an how they interact with the different ester's. Please give the cooling industry a brake and choose. LOL
Rich.
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Been looking into an issue and upon contacting LCI, they sent back this PDF file that others might find helpful when looking into service work.
Rich.
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Been looking into an issue and upon contacting LCI, they sent back this PDF file that others might find helpful when looking into service work.
Rich.
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8 hours ago, kaypsmith said:Use a few cubes of ice in a pan or bowl, if it thaws no harm done, and if it re freezes it will have changed shapes.
Kay, A note to all regarding how to know if a freeze is working, or if the coach or home unit has failed or lost power.
Place a paper cup in the freezer(in the coach it needs to be secured in some manner). Place a quarter on top of the frozen cup. If it has drooped to the bottom of the cup ! Things have thawed and the items have been compromised !!!!!
Rich.
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Kay, The list most likely is much longer., but air brake operation is one of those steep learning curve items for most First time Diesel coach owners and I will say it is one of the MOST important items to understand. A different world then Hydraulic systems.
Rich.
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12 hours ago, greamie said:Cockpit air wasn't real cool. Local tech hooked it up, ran the check, but didn't have info on what the refrigerant charge should be. Someone had printed "2.5" on the unit, under the hood. We assumed that was the charge level. However, while better, air still isn't cold. Any experience out there?
Sanden equipment is used on allot of the Freightliner chassis.
This is a copy of the Sanden Dash AC diagnostics flow chart that should help in diagnosing the system. Good diagnostics can save one some major expenses.
The expansion valve and freeze sensor on this system is located inside the Heater box assembly. Dirt in the expansion valve area has a detrimental affect on the systems overall performance.
This repair requires a major disassembly and IS Not something most owners should try. This job requires the proper equipment and supplies. some of it on the pricey side and many areas require the tech to be certified.
Rich.
Note, This information offers some insight into nominal loss of Freon in automotive systems.
Based on 1000 A/C units opened and recorded by 9 garages in 2000 (three different German car makes), the rate of normal loss is assessed at 6.3 % per year (25% tolerance band) over the first seven years of ex work A/C systems' use phase. Normal loss is considered any refrigerant deficiency of about 40 % compared to the first fill. The losses below 40 % as recorded by the garages are taken as an unintentional sample survey of the normal emissions. The basic assumption is that a 40 % refrigerant loss still allows the A/C system to work just properly.
Irregular losses are all the losses over 40 %. They are mostly caused by external events like accidents, stone hits and suchlike. Therefore the most defective single circuit component to replace is by far the condenser. The rate of irregular emissions amounts to almost 2 % per year (347 kg from all the 21,300 once a year inspected cars equipped with an R-134a ex-work A/C system).
Future disposal emissions are estimated at 2 %. This is why the assumed 25 % one-off disposal emissions are split into 12-13 usage years of the A/C system.
Thus, the overall emissions range around 10 %/yr. This rate is equivalent to a loss of roughly 88 grams per year and car (average first fill of 0.850 kg).
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Klhldh, Welcome to the Forum !
Question for you - The switch - is it a momentary one or a toggle Switch .
Momentary style - one can just jump the 2 wires that activate the disconnect solenoid and it should stay latched - only 12 volt circuit but having a meter handy is very helpful.
Toggle style switch - one can install a temporary one of the time being. Maybe covering it up and mention it is not a toy.
Rich.
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shara 900, Welcome to the FMCA Forum !
Could you offer some information on how far you travel each year and the areas you travel in.
Also, use additives in my fuel and have been unlucky and picked up some bad fuel that required replacing things.
Rich.
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Ron, The AC evaporators and condenser fins have a scalped surface to increase the area. This makes straightening then a slow process, but it is doable.
I have used a small pocket knife to gently open a space between each fin. The fins are most often bent ether to the left or right as viewed from the damaged side.
Start with the areas of least damage and slowly open those areas first, then expand the area into the heaver damaged areas. SLOW - Yes, but doable.
The larger the area opened, the lower the high side pressure can drop and that decreases the Compressor current. High current causes high heat and will kill the compressor. I have laid no my side for hrs. to get them opened when stopping for a replacement was not in our vacation plan.
Rich.
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Good Graphics Kay ! One can see the difference the Modified wave affect has on a 120 volt AC Clock. It sees the abrupt transitions as 4 pulses instead of 2 and that makes them run fast.
Like one hour equals 2 when running on a modified sine wave. Older equipment does run fine,( except timing equipment) but with a lower RMS Present things can run a little slower, fans are a good example.
RMS = Root Means Squared.
Rich.
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Wayne, 12 amp load indicated on the inverter 12 volt side ?
Any chance the engine block heater is on ?
Rich.
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3 hours ago, Jmholb57 said:Found the problem. ATS was under foot of bed. One of the connections was melted. Did temporay fix until getting a new ATS. Everything closed today. Thank you. Will get a metal box in place of this plastic one. Will be more concerned with checking the tightness of the connections from now on. Learning experience.
Good to know that you found the failed ATS and where able to get a temporary repair while waiting for a new part.
Hope you enjoy the 4th.
Rich.
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Peggy, Glad that the problem is fixed!
Thank You for posting the item that failed with picture and the information on how the repair was accomplished !
Have a Good 4th. of July !!
Rich
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3 hours ago, Jmholb57 said:I' having the same problem. Nothing on shore power works bit everything on generator works. In central Florida with a dog and very hot also. Have a 2017 jayco alante and don' know where transfer switch is. Must be under bed for i looked everywhere else. Owners manual is of zero help. No breakers and no fuses are blown or kicked.
ATS is likely under the bed, Do you have a meter? and do you know how to check the Shore power and cable end for proper voltage and good connections?
The other item that happens, is the AC or other items are left on and the High current can weld the contacts together and the ATS will no longer switch automatically.
The nominal position for the ATS is shore power and transfers to Generator power when it is running with no shore power.
You have Gen power - so that kind of makes one think it is an issue with the Riser, the shore power cable is damaged or there is an issue between the connection between the coach connection and the transfer switch.
Rich.
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10 minutes ago, jleamont said:Rich, I found that website on Sunday, but thanks for the link! I sent them an email, to my surprise I got a response within 2 hours..on Sunday! Andy there told me to purchase one, if it doesn't work just return it for a full refund. I might give it a shot after I do some more research. I hate returning stuff
Think that they will work with you, BC outfit. Hopefully they are not to upset with there southern neighbors.
Rich.
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Bill, Could you post any information you have on the slide that has failed ?
This is one manual and it might give you some help understanding how it might work, but information from you is needed to narrow down the options.
Rich.
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34 minutes ago, smarksel said:I have RVA jacks on my 2001 Safari RV. One of my jacks will go down, but intermittently will not come up. I don't think it is a faulty switch because I have a set of switches in the cockpit and another set of switches by the motor. If I play with the switch long enough, the jack will finally retract. The jacks are hydraulic, using Dextron II. Is there a solenoid or release valve that could be sticking? RVA is permanently closed.
This is a PDF file that covers the RVA Leveling systems quit well.
Rich.
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Joe, found this link that might be an option for a replacement 12 volt drive motor.
http://rollertrol.com/RV-roller-blind-shade-replacement-motors
Rich.
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Peggy, been looking around for what your Transfer switch might look like and they used different wiring depending on floor plans and the fact that your coach is setup for 30 amp shore power. That setup often uses a main power panel with a time delay relay, that engages a relay in the power panel that you to use both roof AC units when on Generator power.
Could you take a picture of the AC power panel / DC fuse panel setup and attach it to a post?
This picture kind of matches what I'm picturing in my mind from you description of the location of where the ATS switch is located. Might be total different then the way things are wired though. Got to admit the picture looks more like a 50 amp, but the source mentions 30 amp setup.
Rich.
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Options and multiple ones is always good. Kind of a nice setup, that looks good in the coach.
Rich.
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mgreen, Welcome to the FMCA Forum.
Tank repair often requires certified tech.
Googled LP tank repair centers in WY. and this might be your closes starting point.
A number of them come up using this google . Might ask if they do system maintenance, Think you are well south of Cody. Laramie might be a closer location.
Hope this helps.Rich. -
You might contact the REV Group - they now handle the HR line.
AMERICAN COACH / FLEETWOOD / HOLIDAY RAMBLER / MONACO
DECATUR, IN
- 719,000 square feet throughout 6 buildings and offices
- 3 Production lines
- Complete chassis modification and fab shop
- State-of-the-art paint facility
- East and West coast ARG service facility
- Retail parts store and distribution center
- Hardwood cabinetry shop
Rich.
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14 hours ago, rsbilledwards said:And the rest of the information Rich....Where to get them as in source???
I hope the home office does not think I'm marketing things. Joe, asked about the fuel pump supplier.
Found the info at this sight. While looking for possible LED lights for the Ford style lights used on our coach. Lower portion of the page.
Do you have an issue with a Low Beam warning ? Thinking it has come up with the newer vehicles that use soft switches and software driven controls. The installation of caps in the circuit and the quick current surge would satisfy the code string return code parameters. Sure an interesting fix if that is the solution - beat's writing 25 lines of code. LOL
Well - I tried the link and it worked. Last time I attached a link it was way off base, and Carl let me know. I just get things scrambled at times when I do not check the link accuracy - you know, that is when the last link copied is going to get pasted.
Maybe subconsciously I do not want things to get to boring on the Forum.
As a side note, There appears to be some suppliers that have had complaints regarding EMI(electro magnetic interference). So when shopping for a possible source of replacement LED lights and lighting Read over there business warranty and history of issues.
Rich.
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Reading up on a request for information regarding a upgrade from older stile lighting to the newer LED headlight bulbs now on the market and found this piece of information.
LED Warning Canceller Capacitors
This is a set of the pictured in-line capacitors to be installed as a plug and play installation for your new LED kit. These eliminate the dashboard errors that can be caused by installing aftermarket lights in your vehicle. These dashboard errors such as "Check Low Beam" can be extremely aggravating to some. Adding these will guarantee no error lights and a more professional installation. Some of the vehicles manufacturers that would definitely require these would be Audi, BMW, Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, Mercedes-Benz, Mitsubishi, Volkswagen and Volvo.
Rich.
Cummins ISB 300 - engine light and idle speed
in Engines
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kwl0525, I will off my thoughts on the items. I will highlight them
I actually have a couple questions/concerns and thought I throw this out to see if anyone has advices or experience with this. I have 2003 Monaco Cayman with the Cummins ISB300 and an Allison 5 speed transmission.
1) The other day when the exhaust brake engaged (PacBrake) and the transmission downshifts ( and RPMs increase), the Engine Light comes on and then goes out after the RPMs decrease. I don't have any loss of power or anything, but I've never had this occur before.
Think that you are getting an over speed indication. Try to maintain an RPM level around 2300 max. Is this the only time you get a yellow warning light ?
2) Starting last year, I started noticing that when I start the unit (or when it's idling after being driven) it seems to 'hunt' for an idle speed to settle at and my tachometer is constantly bouncing all over the place, even when driving down the road. They are massive speed variations, but you can hear it. I know the air compressor comes on immediately for the suspension, etc., but I don't think that is the cause of the 'hunting'.
I have experienced a similar issue, that has been caused by items.
A. High heat in the engine compartment, serpentine belt needed replacement, Belt tension-er being defective, Defective cooling system thermostat, Failed engine alternator. The other items that might come into play are the engine speed sensor is failing, a weak, corroded connection at the sensor or at the ECM primary 50 pin connection.
B. Low coolant level could come into play.
Question - when was the radiator and the CAC / Inter cooler cleaned ?
Last time the fuel filters where changed? Your coach year / if it is a 2002 to 04 - you will have an ISB-02 series engine and they are the model years that have a 3rd. fuel filter connected inline most often in the frame rail behind the rear axle on the drivers side, BUT it has popped up in other locations at times and it gets missed 99.9% of the time. just gets over looked or the shops have no clue it is there.
( I miss my old, mechanical 5.9 some days)? Simple is better, with less to go wrong, but there are some other issues that the newer setups have cured.
I don't have any loss of power or anything, but I've never had this occur before.
Question - how old is your fuel lift pump?
Rich.