ClayL

I used those also and they worked great. They come with a rubber stabilizer that fits into the hand hole and provides plenty of support for the weight of the sensors.

Definitely keep the black tank valve closed and let it get close to full before you dump. Otherwise you will get the dreaded poop pyramid.

Who did you talk to at Winnebago? They do make the doors, I have seen them making them. They use the material cut out from the wall as the door and add trim etc. I would call Lichtsinn Motors , give them your Winnebago ID number (should be on a plaque by the drivers door) or your VIN which they can cross to your ID number. They are a few miles from the factory and do a great job of supplying parts.

A lot of them are made by Trimark and according to a local locksmith the cylinders/locks are not available except from Trimark and perhaps their distributors. If the following is what your's looks like, it is a Trimark: TRIMARK When I needed a key I had to buy it from Trimark because the blanks were not available form the local locksmiths I checked with.

RV antifreeze in the fresh water tank can cause that. It really isn't harmful but I didn't like it when it happened to me with my first motor home. After that I added a bypass/pump system and did not put any antifreeze in the tank. RV antifreeze is polyethylene glycol which is a food additive - in small amounts - and a laxative - Mirilax and others - in larger amounts. I had to fill and flush the tank several times to eliminate it.

I checked with a number of tire shops and except for one, none had any way to torque the lug nuts properly. One had a 500 ft pound torque wrench in a very dusty box on a shelf about 8 feet off the floor. They had it but didn't use it. I bought a 3 to 1 torque multiplier and a 250 ft pound torque wrench. 158 input put 475 on the lug nuts. I thought it would be cheaper than a SnapOn 500 ft pound torque wrench ($350 back when I checked) but by the time I bought a 33 mm 1 inch drive socket ($35) and a ten inch long 1 inch extension ($75) and a 1/2 to 3/4 inch adapter (for the input) plus an 14 inch steel tube to go from the torque multiplier reaction bar to the ground plus the cost of the multiplier and the torque wrench, I think the torque wrench cost would have been less expensive than the multiplier set up. I used it once when I bought new tires or rather the tire shop used it. Sold the motor home and still have the multiplier set up. Guess I ought to put it on Craig's list.

If by coach batteries you are taking about the house batteries rather than the engine batteries, then yes they are charged by the alternator while the engine is running, There is a solenoid that is activated in two ways. 1) By a wire connected to the RUN terminal on the ignition switch. 2) By the momentary rocker switch on the dash that connects the engine battery to the house batteries. It is used to start the engine when the engine battery is discharged. There is another solenoid that is used to disconnect the house batteries from the house dc system. It is activated by a momentary center off rocker switch usually located in the step well. Both solenoids are usually located close to each other. Often in a compartment behind a panel on one of the steps. Sometimes in a box on the left sidewall above the propane tank . As an aside, I think in 2005 Winnebago started installing a Trickle Start charger that charges the engine battery by the converter/shore power. This keeps the engine battery from discharging when you are connected to shore power so the engine battery won't be discharged by parasitic/keep alive drains. See https://www.bing.com/search?q=trickle+start+battery+charger&qs=AS&pq=trickle+start&sk=AS2SC3&sc=8-13&sp=6&cvid=2C3934AD94BB4BB7933F422A6A541FE1&FORM=CHRDEF I used a BatteryMinder Plus float charger on my coach instead. See http://www.batteryminders.com/12-volt-maintenance-charger-desfulator-1500 Here is the Winnebago diagram showing the two solenoids, i

I used flexible plastic cutting boards under the tires. Won't keep the tires from sinking but will protect them. The jack pads should keep the tires from sinking much. The flexible cutting boards are light and easy to store.

There will be a resistance wire coil for each speed except high which is direct. Location of the resistor package depends on chassis brand but is often in the heater/AC air plenum. The moving air is used to cool the resistor.

The guts of all of the counter top ice makers appear to be made by the same factory in China with cosmetic differences as requested by the companies they private label them for. So I would buy on price and any features - if there are any - that you like. Be aware that they do not keep the ice frozen. As it melts it makes another batch. We kept a bin in our RV freezer full of the ice so the ice was a lot colder than freezing as it is when it comes out of the ice maker. The ice lasts longer in a drink that way.

We were full timers and replaced the carpet with Armstrong's best grade of floating laminate. One of the best things we did for the motor home. Easy to clean and always looked good. We put down a small throw rug in front of the door and a runner in front of the sink/refrigerator area. They could be washed. Heck, even in the house we bought and live in now, we are getting rid of the carpet and replacing it with ceramic tile and the new thinner hardwood. Carpet used to be the way to go but not anymore. Before we started full timing we had an upscale house in Bow NH and it came with tongue and groove hard maple. After we got used to that we changed our minds about carpet completely.

If you hold the "ctrl" key down and rotate the mouse wheel you can increase or decrease the font depending on which way you rotate it. The font stays as set if you leave and come back another time. The new setting doesn't affect other sites. There are other ways to do it but this is fast and easy for me to remember.

Things have changed. Kwikee and Power Gear were both bought by a holding company that folded Kwikee into Power Gear. It appears that Power Gear/Kwikee have now been acquired by Lippert. See HERE

I had the same problem. The lock had not been put on securely and fell off. The pin had worked it's way partially out. At that point I replaced the locking pins with old fashioned pins and fold over locking rings. You are absolutely right about the need for a walk around any chance you get.

We didn't boondock but friends did, and I understand there are several places to get water including the two gas stations (Pilot - Loves) on the west side of town off I 10. The RV Pit Stop on the north side of town at 425 N Central Blvd, (RT 95) has a dump station plus water and propane. Out on the BLM land there are people that come around and pump out the sewer (for a fee) and others that sell fresh water. There are some dump stations and water at the long term BLM sites also. We spent all or part of 9 winters in the area but we stayed in Bouse - about 35 miles from Q - in the Coyote Ridge RV park. $165 per month full hook up with metered electricity an extra charge. Out of the hustle and bustle but close enough to Q to go there for lunch, dinner or whatever.