ClayL

We drove it last year with a 36 footer pulling a toad up to where we turned east to NH. The first part after Albany goes through a bunch of small towns with a lot of lights and some somewhat narrow lanes in some of the towns. Outside the towns it wasn't bad. At that time we did have a fair amount of construction but that should be finished by now. I decided that the small towns were a pain and didn't take that route when we headed back west.

I would unscrew it and see if it seals on pressure and opens on suction. You should be able to blow into it to check the seal under pressure.

This is the one I am using HERE It works well but on one occasion when we stopped for gas in UT, we had a 40 mph wind coming from the rear of the coach and it forced some tank air into the coach. A rotating version would have eliminated that issue. However once in 7 years is not much of a problem. If you get one like the above note there is an arrow molded into the side that must point forward.

You asked about the check valve location. They are often called air admittance valves or vacuum breakers. They will be on a stub from the output side of a sink drain. They are supposed to open and let some air in if a vacuum forms when you are dumping. This is to keep the water in the trap from being sucked out. This is what one looks like. It is the upright cylinder on the upper right side of the picture behind the white tube. It can be removed by unscrewing it.

I wondered how well they would work for Cds but haven't seen the data safes you mentioned. I didn't realize they existed so hadn't looked. Will have to see what I can find.

You probably wouldn't want to pay as much as I would want for compensation!

We have a couple of Sentry fire resistant locking boxes. They cost about $25 or $30 each as I recall. We bought one at Staples and the other at Office Depot. We have them in a place that isn't obvious (we hope). We keep passports, social security cards, vehicle titles, birth certificates and the like in one, and insurance policies, some expensive software CDs/DVDs, and other papers we want to protect in the other. We are more concerned about fire than theft.

We used Armstrong's best grade of laminate. We picked it based on some tests that Consumer Reports did that showed it had better wear and scratch resistance than Pergo. It's 3/8 inch thick. We were surprised to find that a local CarpetTime store had much better prices on the best grade than than Home Depot or Lowes had on the middle grade which is all they carried. The best grades were special order. We did the installation of our flooring ourselves. We couldn't find an installer willing to do the job. It took us about ten days altogether (we only worked about 4 hours a day though). It wasn't terribly difficult but did require a lot of cutting and trimming because of all of the corners. There were also some challenges at the front of the slides, around the stairs, and underneath the dinette. Before we did the installation we did a test by removing a square of carpet and making sure the slides would ride over a piece of T molding, laminate and underlayment. Some people try to cut the carpet back under the slide, but we cut the carpet in front of the slides leaving enough carpet to be stapled down. I was afraid the slides would catch the carpet when the slide went back out. A Tee molding covers it so it doesn't show. If you do the job yourself I would recommend a few things to have: 1) table saw, 2) chop saw, 3) good saber saw, 4) rotozip tool, 5) air brad nailer, 6) air stapler, 7) utility knife and sharp hook blades. There were two grades of the foam underlayment available. We used the best grade - more expensive but thicker and provides a moisture barrier. We also used a special waterproof joint glue in areas that are prone to getting wet - like in front of the sink, refrigerator, and around the stairwell . (This is used to glue the joints so spilled water can't get in the joints - not to glue the flooring to the subfloor). We also used silicon caulk to fill the 1/4 gap at the edges in those areas. The caulk and waterproof glue are both recommended in the instructions from Armstrong.

I have had them in the shower drain a couple of times. The recommended way to get rid of them there is to pour boiling water down the drain. That works for the shower but the toilet will be a little harder I suspect. The larvae live in the crud on the sides of the drains. On the black tank I don't know where they live. You might have to Google them (sewer flies) and see if there are any insecticides that will work.

Glad you are getting it fixed. Just want to point out a couple of things for general info. There are no limit switches on the steps. The control board senses the increased current when the steps reach the mechanical limits and cuts the power to the motor. This feature also protects the steps in case you are too close to a curb or other obstruction. There is one magnetic reed switch that activates the control board when the door is opened or closed.

I used a white paint pen to number each sensor so location wasn't a problem. I do like Doran's approach though.

My tires are six years old and I will replacing them soon. When I do I will have the Dually Valves installed. I have the Pressure Pro sensors installed on my flexible extenders now. I have put pieces of corrugated wiring loom cover on the extenders because I was getting some wear where they go though the wheel covers.

It's not uncommon. I would have the dealer clean (wire brush) the rust off and paint it with a rust reformer.

We put ours in the shower, sprayed them with Scrubbing Bubbles, let them sit for a while and then rinsed them . We let them dry partially folded so they would hold their shape. I was afraid we would have to spray them with starch but it wasn't necessary. They looked pretty good at the time but we are doing a number of upgrades to our coach and have bought MCD American Duo shades and are in the process of replacing the day/night shades with them. DW is covering the valences at this point. They are being put in a lot of high end coaches now. Very pricey ($800 for the three we bought) but everyone we know that has them speak highly of them. We want to get the powered front shades with remote for the windshield but I think we will take a trip down to TX this summer and have the company install those. You can see them HERE

Doran used to sell a private labeled PressurePro system. About three years ago they began selling a system that they either had designed or designed themselves. It appears to be a pretty reliable system as I have not heard of any problems with it.

if you go HERE , you can download a small program that will let you enter the length of your cables, current draw, and how much voltage drop across the cables you are willing to accept (I usually use about 1 1/2 percent of 12.6 or 12.4 volts). It will then calculate the wire size for you. Or it will tell you what the drop will be for a given cable size.

Like Bill I use a charcoal filter and have for 6 years with no ill effects and no mold or algae in my fresh water tank. I have left the water in the tank for as long as a month or so although if I am not using it from the tank I usually dump it every two to three weeks. We lived in NH for 18 years and had a well with with no chlorine and stored water in five gallon containers in case the power went out. I kept them for over six months with no visible signs of anything growing in them. As a kid growing up in West Texas we got our water from a cistern that was filled with water that ran off the roof. No chlorine and no problems. We probably developed immunity to the bacteria involved. Maybe I still have it (immunity) because we drink the water from the tap everywhere we go. I might be somewhat more careful in MX though. Obviously there can be pathogens in water and reasonable care should be taken but I think the obsession with water that has developed in the last 20 years or so has little basis in fact.

FWIW - At the Winnebago Grand National Rally in July, the Shurflow guy said they were discontinuing the electronic pump version in favor of a fully mechanical one. He indicated they have had a lot of problems and don't understand why. The rep said when they have more than one pump failure in a given vehicle that they often will have multiple failures. In other vehicles the pumps will work fine for years. As a designer of electronic instrumentation for heavy vehicles in a past life, I know that vehicle electrical systems are very noisy (electrically) and have lots of transients and spikes that can damage electronics unless the design is done properly. I suspect that might be their problem. If you are having pump failures you might try putting a 1000 MFD, 100 volt or so capacitor across the power leads at the pump. That might provide enough protection.

At the Winnebago Grand National Rally last month I spoke with the Workhorse rep. She said they have a fix which involves a re-flash of the IP. She offered to do it for mine but I had some scheduling conflicts and mine has only done it three or four times in 5 1/2 years so I didn't pursue it.

Snopes is your friend. From that link: "The claim that pressing the sequence *3370# will unleash "hidden battery power" in a cell phone seems to be a misunderstanding of an option available on some brands of cell phone (such as Nokia) for Half Rate Codec, which provides about 30% more talk time on a battery charge at the expense of lower sound quality. However, this option is enabled by pressing the sequence *#4720# — the sequence *3370# actually enables Enhanced Full Rate Codec, which provides better sound quality at the expense of shorter battery life."

I use one I bought at an auto supply store. I did replace the metal output shaft with a flexible hose. I also find a pistol grip type much easier to use than the old lever type.

We go from warm to warm, be that north or south with east west excursions as it suits us. We have ended up going back to a couple of places several times because we have made friends in our travels and we agree to meet up with some of them each year. Those kinds of stays are somewhat planned. Right now we are at the Winnebago Grand Nation Rally (our first time) because a friend we met here at the factory a few years ago decided to attend the rally. When we found out a couple of months ago that he and his new SO were going to be at the rally we decided to join them. From here we will head to NH to see our kids. It's been a couple of years since we have seen them. Our travels have become a mix of planned and spontaneous actions. We do tend to stay longer at most places ( at least a month unless we are going from point A to point than we did when we first started full timing almost seven years ago. Gosh, how did that much time go by?

Glad to see you over here! You are the guy I was hoping he would find with a search of the sites I mentioned.

Assuming you have a P30 chassis, I would go over to irv2.com and rv.net and do a search on "autopark". You will find a bunch of info on the parking brake. As I understand it the brake is spring loaded to lock and held open by the power steering pump pressure. My P30 used a drum brake on the drive line right behind the transmission and not the regular brakes, so there should be no connection between the two systems. The master cylinder can be seen from the drivers side wheel well or by removing the engine cover (doghouse) and looking at the front drivers side of the engine close to the top of the engine.

I looked at the web site and while I have a lot of respect for Winegard products in general, I am not sure it will really be all that much better than a Verizon or Sprint aircard. If you read the fine print you will see that that you have the option of selecting one or the other as your ISP. They claim much better connectivity than an aircard but many of us use Wilson antennas and booster amps (or another brand) and also get much better connectivity than a plain aircard. We also use wireless routers so two or more computers can be connected to the internet at the same time. I guess I would add up the price of the above options and see how the Travelnet product compares.